julietsierrappl

Saitek throttle control sensitivity and null zones

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Hello and help!

I just started using the Saitek Throttle quadrant and quite like it. The only problem is that when I am flying the Flyjsim 737v3 the throttles and speedbrake continuously micro-oscillate in any setting. This is especially bothersome with the speedbrake which gives of these constant metal to metal clicks because somehow the analog sensor seems to be "unstable" and gives off "noise" that produces these micro-oscillations. The only "Control Sensitivity" adjustments that you can make seem to be with the joystick and nothing seems to be available for the Saitek throttle quadrant and adding a response curve does not help the problem.

Does anyone know if there is a way to edit the "null zone" setting with the Saitek throttle quadrant so that it ignores these micro-oscillations and stop these darned clicks?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Jon 

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I had problems with Saitek controllers in Xplane11.  Same issue as you (mine was a full stick, not just throttle).   I finally had to switch to a Logitech Extreme 3D Pro, it is the only controller I have found that I have a great comfort level with Xplane11.  Plus there is a nice palm rest on it, so I can use micro adjustments and light pressure, the way I was taught to handle a stick in real life since my Allegro 2000 light sport trainer had a stick, not a yoke.  Only aircraft I have ever flown with yokes are a Cessna 172 and Ercoupe and also a Cessna 170.  I prefer a stick, especially one with an electric elevator trim at my fingertips like my Allegro Trainer had.  My sim Logitech stick is configured with fingertip elevator trim as well.

John

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Posted (edited)

That is actually a joystick that I plan on getting soon, getting tired of the heavy detents of my CH fighterstick, so I am glad to hear you are happy with the LE3D and I agree, elevator trim at your fingertips is important. I am a PPL myself and trained in the 172S but I don't think I will be getting a yoke anytime soon, a joystick is good enough for me. Hopeful though that something can be done about the saitek quadrant, thanks for the info.

Jon

Edited by julietsierrappl
clarification

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I had a little problem with the Saitek throttle quadrants (I use two of them for dual engine aircraft) and actually took the one that connects to the yoke apart because it was really messed up from the start.  I ended up ruining that one without ever being able to access the pots to clean them.  I now use two USB connected ones and resolved the "dirty" pot syndrome by spraying a short spurt of contact cleaner down beside each of the six controller levers by placing the straw on the can all the way down to their base and then working the levers several times through their full cycle to "scrub" the pots.  This was done while the system was shut down to avoid any electrical problems, but probably would have worked with the power on due to the very low voltage. Worked for me.

P.S. - The original controller that connects to the yoke never worked with one lever at all and I had hoped to find a loose wire or something obvious.  I didn't break anything, but could never get the case to go back together correctly.

John

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It´s all Johns/Jons in this post :)

Well, that was one thing I was considering, taking the thing apart and see what I can do, but I am hoping that some kind of ability to define a null-zone will save me from prying the thing up. Thanks for the info, I´ll keep it in mind if there's no software solution to this problem.

Jon

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2 hours ago, julietsierrappl said:

It´s all Johns/Jons in this post 🙂

Well, that was one thing I was considering, taking the thing apart and see what I can do, but I am hoping that some kind of ability to define a null-zone will save me from prying the thing up. Thanks for the info, I´ll keep it in mind if there's no software solution to this problem.

Jon

The latest drivers have all the software you need to adjust sensitivity and null zones. https://support.logitech.com/en_us/category/gaming#4main-a

What I have found to work (because it is more a hardware issue), is to quickly run the throttle controller back and forth (shake it loose - so to speak) through the detent and reverse  - i.e. full reverse to 50% power several times, fast. I do this as part of a preflight, and is seems to clear things up for me. 

 

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Excellent, thanks pracines for pointing out the drivers and also the tip on running it back and forth, will test it out. 

Jon

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I do exactly what John and Pracines do, and it works. Always keep a can of Electro Cleaner handy.

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