I haven't been able to use it for several months due to a breakdown.

First of all, the aileron axes are asymmetrical and the pitch axis is not recognized.

 

I opened the inside to find the damaged part and this part was broken.

 

https://ibb.co/x14gY8d
https://ibb.co/rbmf6fG
https://ibb.co/HgVfZqc
https://ibb.co/hRKhDrV

 

I'm a high school student and I've been saving up my pocket money for several years to buy this expensive yoke to become a pilot.

Please find this part and tell me how to fix it. Chris said he would replace the yoke with a new one, but he didn't.

https://ibb.co/SBfpxvN

 

pls help me....

 

 

Edited November 15, 20232 yr by Miningkkm1120

You have supplied very basic info

Edited November 15, 20232 yr by jason74

it is unclear from photo #1 whether it is a broken rod or whether it is grease.

OK, it looks like you've got a updated version with the digital sensors. To be sure- how does the sensor on the other side of the bearing look like? I guess it's a narrow green PCB with 6 wires, right? If so, the details of the design are shown here- I've got them from Chris. The big wheel is made (probably SLA- printed) as one part with the rod with the magnet glued (or pressed) to the end of the rod. So it looks like the rod was broken where it enters the bearing with the part opposite to the wheel still inside. In my understanding, the wheel is a custom-made part so there is no ready-made replacement.

Speaking about the solution- one option that looks reasonable (I don't say simple- it depends on your skills) is to take a long stainless steel screw that will fit into the bearing (not sure about the bearing internal diameter- it has to be measured, taking out the broken part of the rod). The hole needs to be made in the wheel so that the screw is a snug fit into the wheel, replacing the rod; the thread in the wheel would be even better, making the final steps easier. The other end of the screw should be fixed in the bearing using the existing grub screws that were holding the rod. Finally the magnet has to be taken from the part of the rod and glued to the end of the screw so that the clearance with the sensor (the small black part on the PCB) is about 1 mm. This distance trimming could be done by moving the screw in the wheel and then fixing it with a dab of glue. Unfortunately this is not all- prior to gluing the magnet firmly to the rod it needs to be rotated with the yoke connected to the PC so that the original calibration is kept.

Actually the screw mentioned could be replaced by any metal (preferably non-magnetic) or plastic rod of an appropriate diameter; IMHO metal would be better as fixing a plastic rod in the bearing by the metal grub screws could make it prone to breaking down, as it happened in your case...

 

Edited November 15, 20232 yr by SergeyPe

7 hours ago, orchestra_nl said:

it is unclear from photo #1 whether it is a broken rod or whether it is grease.

I tried to fix the broken part with glue, but it failed.

Edited November 15, 20232 yr by Miningkkm1120

3 hours ago, SergeyPe said:

OK, it looks like you've got a updated version with the digital sensors. To be sure- how does the sensor on the other side of the bearing look like? I guess it's a narrow green PCB with 6 wires, right? If so, the details of the design are shown here- I've got them from Chris. The big wheel is made (probably SLA- printed) as one part with the rod with the magnet glued (or pressed) to the end of the rod. So it looks like the rod was broken where it enters the bearing with the part opposite to the wheel still inside. In my understanding, the wheel is a custom-made part so there is no ready-made replacement.

Speaking about the solution- one option that looks reasonable (I don't say simple- it depends on your skills) is to take a long stainless steel screw that will fit into the bearing (not sure about the bearing internal diameter- it has to be measured, taking out the broken part of the rod). The hole needs to be made in the wheel so that the screw is a snug fit into the wheel, replacing the rod; the thread in the wheel would be even better, making the final steps easier. The other end of the screw should be fixed in the bearing using the existing grub screws that were holding the rod. Finally the magnet has to be taken from the part of the rod and glued to the end of the screw so that the clearance with the sensor (the small black part on the PCB) is about 1 mm. This distance trimming could be done by moving the screw in the wheel and then fixing it with a dab of glue. Unfortunately this is not all- prior to gluing the magnet firmly to the rod it needs to be rotated with the yoke connected to the PC so that the original calibration is kept.

Actually the screw mentioned could be replaced by any metal (preferably non-magnetic) or plastic rod of an appropriate diameter; IMHO metal would be better as fixing a plastic rod in the bearing by the metal grub screws could make it prone to breaking down, as it happened in your case...

 

Thank you for suggesting a good solution. However, I don't have any tools and it seems difficult to do it alone as high school student. It seems like an easy solution if you just find the big wheel, but is there any information about the big wheel?

Edited November 15, 20232 yr by Miningkkm1120

5 hours ago, Miningkkm1120 said:

It seems like an easy solution if you just find the big wheel, but is there any information about the big wheel?

The key word here is "seems". Even if you find it (more on that later) you'll still have to find some rod replacement for putting together the wheel, the bearing and the magnet. In my opinion, the only difficulty in using the stock wheel is to drill a hole for the rod, and the plastic used is quite soft so even a hand drill will do; and it might be a good reason to get one😁.

If this option is not available then it might be possible to find a suitable wheel on eBay, Amazon or Aliexpress. You'll need to count the number of teeth on the stock wheel, the pitch of the teeth (on the wheel or on the belt) and the belt width. Also the size of the mounting hole in the wheel should be equal to the rod (or screw) diameter. I'll check the e-mail exchange with Chris- seems like he told me about the belt type (pitch and width) used, but you'll have to measure the rod (bearing) diameter yourself.

Edited November 15, 20232 yr by SergeyPe

BTW, I've mentioned the need for adjusting the magnet position when fixing it on the rod. Looks like something has distracted me at that moment😁- you don't need to do it when fixing the magnet. As the wheel is driven by a rubber belt, this can be done after everything is in place simply by pressing down on the belt and rotating the wheel against the belt until the axis is in a correct position.