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SergeyPe

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About SergeyPe

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  1. Well, I've finally installed an AS5600 magnetic sensor into Saitek throttle. A small round magnet (approximately the diameter of a lever bearing which was cut flush with the lever body) was super-glued to the lever, working as a new bearing. A small circular PCB with AS5600 was hot-glued in place of a stock resistor as seen on the picture. Then AS5600 was calibrated to provide a full output voltage swing within a lever movement angle. Of course it works like a charm, as expected. The trick is to find a a magnet with the appropriate diameter (I had one as a leftover from one of the old projects). https://disk.yandex.ru/i/4zgXmzfN1t6ogg
  2. I have both and IMHO trying to compare them doesn't make any sense- they are in totally different leagues. Alpha: very short and too stiff pitch travel while the roll is too light, rubber cords for axis loading, plastic body, regular (not long-life) potentiometers on both axis, 8-bit (256 points) controller resolution, switches on the main body. Fulcrum: realistic pitch travel and loading forces on both axis (which makes the biggest difference), all-metal construction, contactless sensors, 12-bit (4096 points) controller resolution, springs for axis loading, no switches on the main body. But to feel the difference you need to try both... I'd say that Alpha is the best mass-produced, relatively low-cost yoke (Saitek/ CH class), while Fulcrum is the best high-end tabletop yoke twice cheaper than the nearest competitor.
  3. Hi Cris, I confirm that it's an issue on my PC as well (for quite some time already, I've forgotten to tell you). Windows 10/ Chrome.
  4. VF throtlle levers have the detentes at the lower part of their travel; VF configuration software allows to configure them for reverse thrust.
  5. No, these are two totally different products.
  6. As clearly explained in the video by MarkDH 5 posts earlier on this page and in a post by lew787 2 posts above this "issue" can be resolved completely by re-calibrating the yoke using an option built into the Alpha's firmware.
  7. You are welcome😀. I've bought it for exactly the same purpose; the build quality is very good.
  8. https://www.simkits.com/product/yoke-control-wheel/
  9. Honestly speaking, having made dozens of complicated simulator hardware projects I never came across MBB switches. A couple of safe bets for the excellent MAB ones are C&K, Otto, Apem, Knitter, Honeywell & NKK. However all of them are quite expensive. My advice would be to use the T80 series from Salecom- a Chinese brand that is manufacturing the clones (probably licensed) of C&K 7000 series. The life expectancy is 50K cycles and the build quality is practically the same as C&K with quite a reasonable price. I've used hundreds of them without a single failure, as opposed to various clones that look quite similar.
  10. The template for the holes is available on the Fulcum website. You can use the bolts with the wide washers and drill the holes in the desk as wide as, say, 8 or even 10 mm to address any drilling inaccuracy. Just make sure that the bolts do not protrude into the Fulcrum base for more than 8 mm. As for the feet- you may want to remove them even if you use the bolts for mounting to have a more firm contact with the desk; they are mounted to the base with a double-sided sticky tape. Most probably Chris will not consider it a violation of warranty terms, but you can ask him directly.
  11. It has nothing to do with beliefs; the engineers call it a "Failure rate". Which can be higher or lower, also depending on the conditions of use. For sure there is a number of owners who are not abusing their Warthogs and have them up and running for many years as well as quite a number of folks who have a) a gimbal sphere broken because of a stupid design/ brittle plastic and b) the joint between a stick and a gimbal broken because of a cheap "pot" metal used. Both are well-known problems that are widely discussed in the web for many years. On top of that, the gimbal spring loading design is something that you would expect to see in the cheapest mass-market joysticks but not in a high-end product that Warthog is pretending to be. OK, this was maybe true 15 years ago with no alternatives, but not anymore; and during these years Thrustmaster didn't do anything to fix these design flaws.
  12. As mentioned a couple of times, all the Warthog mechanics is plastic and quite prone to breaking, especially the stick. The throttles are more durable, but the friction pads will wear out under the intensive use. It's all just nice metal looks...
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