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  1. As it is written on Thrustmaster website (which I would recommend to visit) both the flaps detents and the reverser locks can be removed to adapt the unit to any plane model.
  2. For the same event ID=69924 the position of the rotary switch is defined by the "Value" parameter- from "0" for "Auto" position to "4" for "3" position. This is the PMDG logic for all multi-position switches (like 3-position toggles- the values are from 0 to 2).
  3. I've also tried to configure the yoke in SPAD.neXt software WITHOUT installing the Honeycomb's YokeInput. All the 35 buttons are visible/ configurable properly, so in 5 minutes I've programmed the rotary switch (buttons #31-#35) for five Autobrake positions in PMDG's 737/ P3Dv4.5...
  4. This discussion became so interesting that I've taken my Honeycomb out of the box (I'm using a different yoke now) to check the declared problem again (while I knew the answer already). It's absolutely true that all the switches located on the switch panel are behaving differently to the ones located on the yoke itself, i. e. they are not working correctly when you try to map the P3D functions to them directly using the sim's key assignment menu. For instance, any switch on the left side of the panel behaves identically no matter it's moved up or down, and the rotary switch registers as #31 in positions "1" and "2" and as #34 in positions "4" and "5". These switches are not supposed to be directly mapped in the sim, which is what's written in Honeycomb manual (starting from page 6). And this is EXACTLY what the Honeycomb's YokeInput configuration program is made for. This is the logic built in the yoke's controller in order to make it as flexible as possible using the yoke WITH the application software. In other words- it's not a bug or a problem, it's just another example which shows the importance of reading the manual.
  5. Well, with the way how the joystick plastic gimbal is designed/ manufactured you are either very careful or extremely lucky; or both. But of course it's also a matter of personal preferences- a lot of simmers will go for the functionality which (especially with a throttle module) looks to be quite similar to a real thing.
  6. Which has the same type of plastic in all the mechanical joints...
  7. Google is our friend, as usual: https://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4399843/re-mmjoy-mmjoy2-build-your-own-usb-controller#Post4399843
  8. Yes, I think in your case Air Manager is the best solution. My situation was different as I built the modules around PMDG's 737 and the current version of MobiFlight has all the specific PMDG offsets built-in, also making the complex logic possible without Lua scripting. And it's true that it's much less suitable for X-Plane, but for P3D it's quite good. Air Manager is quite a powerful platform but in my opinion it's also a bit more difficult for the beginner. Anyway, Air Manager or MobiFlight- in terms of hardware they both point to Arduino Mega.
  9. Radio module in action: https://yadi.sk/i/VDg1eN_oSjmiIQ.
  10. I would strongly recommend a MobiFlight solution (mobiflight.com), especially if you want to have LED indicators (including the AP 7-segment indicators) in addition to the buttons/ encoders. The software is free-of-charge, it's based on Arduino Mega or Chinese smaller-size clones that are much more covenient to assemble and is very easy to program. The guys are also providing a first-class support. Here is my rig https://yadi.sk/i/JeeLvjUetQHlvg (P3Dv4.5, also P3Dv5 is supported) with four modules (AP, EGIS, Radio and switches, 5 Arduino Mega's) based on MobiFlight. At the same time I seriously doubt that they support DCS, as it requires a totally different interface.
  11. I've done some investigation on the matter of sensors used in Warthog- they are definitely working in digital mode which means that there is no way to connect them to Leo's boards (or any other similar controller with analog inputs). And they are not Hall Effect (typically this name is erroneously used for all magnetic sensors)- they are so-called magneto-resistive sensors. As opposed to "normal" Halls that can be used for a direct replacement of analog pots these are much more complicated and should be programmed to provide an analog output. In short- there is no simple way to change the Warthog boards without sensor replacement which is quite a tedious job if you don't have the appropriate skills. BTW, I would suggest that you check the reason for your PC not to recognize both devices. I have a similar W10- I7700K-1080 rig and never had any problems with Warthog throttle that I'm using for a couple of years. Could it be that your device has got an old firmware/ driver? The latest one is from 2018, it's probably worth checking yours. USB ports can also be the reason.
  12. Are you sure that Melexis 90333 sensors used in Warthog are connected as analog potentiometers? I think they are used in digital mode, being specifically programmed to interface the control PCB's. If this is the case, you'll not be able to use Bodnar boards to process the axis signals- only the buttons and the throttle "INCR-DECR" axis which is a regular pot. Have you checked the signals from the sensors?
  13. "The Thrustmaster Control Panel's advanced options enable you to adjust and control up to 8 MFDs simultaneously. Each MFD is therefore fully personalised and identifiable.". MFD Cougar User Manual, page 2.
  14. Yes, it's a popular belief. So far I couldn't find any real evidence of firmware updates in "red eye" version.
  15. You are welcome😀. As for the new home for my Sidewinders- sorry, they were already disassembled and used for parts/ assemblies. There is still quite a number of FFB2 sellers on eBay; what I wouldn't recommend is a X08-58763 (the "red-eye" version). As I explained, technically they are the same, but the grip is coated with rubber-like paint which always becomes sticky and extremely unpleasant to touch.
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