Dougal

Intel Thermal Qualities

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I just delidid my new i7 7700k.

At least a full quarter of the chip was not making contact with the heat sink via the crappy thermal compound!

No wonder my temps have been crazy.

Just reseated sink using liquid metal. Leaving overnight and will check temps again tmrw...

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Yep, have heard of that before. Seems that from time to time, Intel screw up with the application method. I've heard of it been too thick, or dried out and crumbly too.

My daughters 7600k was fine, decent application. Still knocked 15 degrees of the temp though.

 

Looking forward to hearing about your temp results Dougal. 

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6 hours ago, martin-w said:

Yep, have heard of that before. Seems that from time to time, Intel screw up with the application method. I've heard of it been too thick, or dried out and crumbly too.

My daughters 7600k was fine, decent application. Still knocked 15 degrees of the temp though.

 

Looking forward to hearing about your temp results Dougal. 

Hi Martin

As suspected, no difference (or very little) at idle, but a WHOPPING 16-18c cooler at 4.9GHz overclock, using our very favorite Noctua air cooler;-)))

It will go to 5GHz, but alas, not 100% stable.  I'm now at 4.8GHz using 'Adaptive vcore'.  vcore not going over 1.286v

What a truly 'stonking' air cooler that Noctua is!  Its even pretty damn quite with those two Noctua fans.

Still thinking of having a play with a custom loop tho;-)

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Can't decide which brand of components to go with though for water cooling.  EK and Alphacool seem like good quality kit.  Don't think I'll go with the aluminium kits though, even though they're a fair bit cheaper.  I old fashioned and like copper;-)

Having such a huuuuuge case, I'll probably throw in a 360mm rad.  I know its overkill for CPU only, but it means I can use a slim rad and very sloooooooow fans;-)

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4 hours ago, Dougal said:

Hi Martin

As suspected, no difference (or very little) at idle, but a WHOPPING 16-18c cooler at 4.9GHz overclock, using our very favorite Noctua air cooler;-)))

It will go to 5GHz, but alas, not 100% stable.  I'm now at 4.8GHz using 'Adaptive vcore'.  vcore not going over 1.286v

What a truly 'stonking' air cooler that Noctua is!  Its even pretty damn quite with those two Noctua fans.

Still thinking of having a play with a custom loop tho;-)

 

Good result Dougal. Which liquid metal was that? I used Conductonaut. 

Noctua is very quiet yes. The old D14 in the PC I gave to my son runs at full rpm all the time and is still very quiet. Incidentally, if you remove one fan it only increases temp by two degrees. 

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4 hours ago, Dougal said:

Can't decide which brand of components to go with though for water cooling.  EK and Alphacool seem like good quality kit.  Don't think I'll go with the aluminium kits though, even though they're a fair bit cheaper.  I old fashioned and like copper;-)

Having such a huuuuuge case, I'll probably throw in a 360mm rad.  I know its overkill for CPU only, but it means I can use a slim rad and very sloooooooow fans;-)

 

EK are a great company. Bitspower are good too. And Aquatuning. 

https://www.bitspower.com/html/product/product01.php

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/content/Bitspower-UK-Watercooling_21.html

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/?sPartner=UKadwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1eitou6H2AIV65ztCh0R7gNeEAAYASAAEgJ4Q_D_BwE

Yes, if I ever decide to build a custom loop I'd go for a 360 rad too. I have a Lian Li X510 that will take a 360 rad at the front. I wouldn't bother for just the CPU though, if I were going to do it I'd do GPU too. 

 

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14 hours ago, martin-w said:

 

EK are a great company. Bitspower are good too. And Aquatuning. 

https://www.bitspower.com/html/product/product01.php

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/content/Bitspower-UK-Watercooling_21.html

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/?sPartner=UKadwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1eitou6H2AIV65ztCh0R7gNeEAAYASAAEgJ4Q_D_BwE

Yes, if I ever decide to build a custom loop I'd go for a 360 rad too. I have a Lian Li X510 that will take a 360 rad at the front. I wouldn't bother for just the CPU though, if I were going to do it I'd do GPU too. 

 

I don't have the packaging any more for the liquid metal. It's what I had left over from the 6700k delid, so don't know the brand;-)  I also only use Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste between CPU and cooler, which I've always had good results from.  Have you ever used liquid metal there?  If so, any good?

My thinking behind the 360 rad is two fold...  to keep the fans as slow and silent as possible, even possibly OFF until CPU temps rise, and having the later option to add a GPU block.  I'm also considering a thicker 280mm rad, as I much prefer the 140mm fans (which I already have too).  My thinking though, is the lager surface area of the 360 will give more future options.

I'm currently only running a single Asus 'Strix' GTX970 video card, which is amazingly quiet, even after ramping right up to its limit with MSI Afterburner.  The ONLY time I hear its fans, is by manually turning them up beyond about 80%.

I also have great airflow in that mahoosive Corsair 780T case, and made sure I almost always maintain slight positive pressure (VERY dusty in here!).  That alone made a big difference in my average temps.  Especially hard drive and MB temps. Had to 'butcher' my desk to accommodate it though;-)

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2 hours ago, Dougal said:

 Have you ever used liquid metal there?  If so, any good?

 

 

Nope, I'm using NT-H1 too. I used to use Diamond paste and usually threw the Noctua paste that came with the cooler away. After I looked at thermal paste reviews, it became apparent that the NT-H1 was top-notch, so have used it ever since. So easy to apply as well. 

I'm lucky with my Lian Li case, no optical bays, so loads of room for a super thick rad. 

Positive case pressure here too. Not always the case though.

I used to advocate negative pressure. That was based on my experience working in a super hot photographic darkroom. I noticed that temps in the darkroom plummeted when the room fan was set to suck out [negative pressure] but barely budged when the fan was set to ingest air [positive pressure]. Cooling was rapid as a result of atmospheric pressure with the negative scenario. Nature abhors a vacuum. I naturally adopted this method of cooling when I started building PC's. 

These days though I favour slightly positive pressure, for the same reason you mention, avoiding dust build up. Positive pressure works as long as the enclosure has sufficient rear ventilation for the warm air to escape unrestricted. 

 

 

 

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25 minutes ago, martin-w said:

 

Nope, I'm using NT-H1 too. I used to use Diamond paste and usually threw the Noctua paste that came with the cooler away. After I looked at thermal paste reviews, it became apparent that the NT-H1 was top-notch, so have used it ever since. So easy to apply as well. 

I'm lucky with my Lian Li case, no optical bays, so loads of room for a super thick rad. 

Positive case pressure here too. Not always the case though.

I used to advocate negative pressure. That was based on my experience working in a super hot photographic darkroom. I noticed that temps in the darkroom plummeted when the room fan was set to suck out [negative pressure] but barely budged when the fan was set to ingest air [positive pressure]. Cooling was rapid as a result of atmospheric pressure with the negative scenario. Nature abhors a vacuum. I naturally adopted this method of cooling when I started building PC's. 

These days though I favour slightly positive pressure, for the same reason you mention, avoiding dust build up. Positive pressure works as long as the enclosure has sufficient rear ventilation for the warm air to escape unrestricted. 

 

 

 

I've just removed my optical drive and extra USB panel from the case.  This gives a huge amount of space.  I can even use a 420mm x 60mm rad;-)))))  I might just for laughs;-)  Not much price difference.

I had a Lan Li case many years ago.  All brush aluminium.  I loved it. Quality wise, I've never had any other main stream case that even comes close to matching it.  It was absolutely top notch with design, materials and build quality?  Are they still as good?

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5 hours ago, Dougal said:

I can even use a 420mm x 60mm rad;-)))))  I might just for laughs;-)  Not much price difference.

I had a Lan Li case many years ago.  All brush aluminium.  I loved it. Quality wise, I've never had any other main stream case that even comes close to matching it.  It was absolutely top notch with design, materials and build quality?  Are they still as good?

 

420X60 !!! :biggrin: That would be awesome Dougal, you should do it. Are you thinking flexible tube or rigid, assuming you go ahead? Think I'd go for rigid, I like the look. 

Lian Li still build quality cases. There are times when I wonder what the hell they are playing at though. Some of the cube cases for example, designs where all the airflow is directed into the hard drive chamber and very little toward the motherboard side where it's needed.

And my case for example.  Awesome case, love it, but not perfect. Cost a bomb, but they cant  be bothered to make the graphics card installation tool less. Despite the fact it is in my son's  Lian Li case that's worth less than half as much. If you want the tool less option you have to buy it as an accessory. Not acceptable on such an expensive case.

Then we have PSU venting. Both the Lian Li I gave to my son, and mine, have PSU vents that can only be described as weird. like an almost closed Venetian blind. Very little air gets through, especially when you add the filter. There is a gap between bottom of case and PSU of course but with all the cables in that region not ideal. It kind of defeats the purpose of having the PSU fan down if it sucks air from inside the case anyway. My solution was to mod it and invert the PSU, so fan up. Gets plenty of air now. I know modern PSU's are very efficient and don't require much air but if Lian Li are going to do it they do it properly  with relatively open vents like the other manufacturers do. 

A few other minor niggles like the clips that hold the side panel on popping out when you push the panel back on. 

So yes, quality aluminium, lovely brushed aluminium Finnish. But one of two deign choices that make you raise an eyebrow. 

 

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I've never owned a Lian Li case.  Thought about it but never did it.

My favorite case of all time has been an old PC Power & Cooling mid tower from circa 1997.  Everything so well fitted.  Too bad it has vintage airflow, too.

Another one I liked was the Coolermaster Pretorian.  It had that brushed aluminum thing going on.

I actually just bought a NZXT S340 Elite (matte white).  It's sitting here, wrapped in plastic still. Filling it with goodies will be oh so fun -- almost as fun as a fluid sim.

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11 hours ago, Mace said:

 

I actually just bought a NZXT S340 Elite (matte white).  It's sitting here, wrapped in plastic still. Filling it with goodies will be oh so fun -- almost as fun as a fluid sim.

 

Awesome case! Has some great features. 

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18 hours ago, martin-w said:

 

420X60 !!! :biggrin: That would be awesome Dougal, you should do it. Are you thinking flexible tube or rigid, assuming you go ahead? Think I'd go for rigid, I like the look. 

I'd love to go with rigid, but I've no practice with it (yet).

I still have some compression fittings for soft tubing, so for now I'll go with that.  Then I'll get some pipe bending practice in;-)

Not going with the 420mm as its just too tight:-(  Ordering the stuff today;-)

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Some will probably question my logic of adding a custom loop to my current setup when, for a similar cost, I could probably get the same or similar net gains from actual hardware upgrades instead of obtaining higher overclocks with the current kit.

Not as much much fun tho eh;-)

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