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Guest santiagoluib3

Help on Saitek Pro Throttle spiking problems

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Hi all,Does anyone of you saitek pro throttle owners ever experienced spiking on one or two of its axis?I own two of these throttles, installed side by side. I wanted to have separate axis for each of the two engines' throttle/prop/mixture (I fly light GA twins most of the time). Now I am having problems with the axis getting too spiky. Not only that, the spiky axis tends to follow the movement of the axis next ot it (the one on the right for exmaple) but only about half the movement.Having these problems are very annoying, especially if the axis are assigned to the engine throttle, or prop, as it makes very erratic responses to the flight...I used to own TM products long time ago (eg. FLCS, TQS), and I remember having to open them up to replace fresh pots to fix similar spiking problems. Any help is much appreciated.santiago

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Purchase and install FSUIPC and that should take care of your problems.

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Thanks for the feedback.I think i read somewhere in this forum that someone is still having the same problem despite installing the registered vesion of FSUIPC. Not that I don't take your word, but I just want an assurance and be sure FSUIPC before I purchase it :)

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Thanks for the feedback.I think i read somewhere in this forum that someone is still having the same problem despite installing the registered vesion of FSUIPC. Not that I don't take your word, but I just want an assurance and be sure FSUIPC before I purchase it :)
I don't know about the FSUIPC solution, but I have a couple of the Saitek throttle quads that had 2 of the 3 axis go wonky. I could not see any way to gain access to clean the pots, so right now they are in a bag in the attic! I fly X-Plane so FSUIPC would not be of any help to me, but perhaps it will help you. Previously the throttles had been fine, and now the only quad that is still ok is the one that goes with the yoke. My solution was to order a GoFlight TQ-6, which was expensive, but I would not buy any more quads from Saitek myself.

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Thanks for the feedback.I think i read somewhere in this forum that someone is still having the same problem despite installing the registered vesion of FSUIPC. Not that I don't take your word, but I just want an assurance and be sure FSUIPC before I purchase it :)
Try this in your FSX Settings controller menu (if you haven't already). Sensitivity 100%, Null Zone 0% Also there is some good info here along with some FAQ's that might be helpful.Click here.

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@dfoulk, So it seems that there is no known fix to these 'jumpy' levers, isn't it? The GF-TQ6 is definitely a nice-to-have stuff, something I would love to get my hands into in the future, but currently still out of my budget and therefore not in my buying list :( @Se7en,Yup I tried that too, but it didn't work. Even the controller properties in windows show those wild swings on those levers, so it's gotta be hardware-related. Anyways, thanks for all of your feedbacks/tips :)

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@dfoulk, So it seems that there is no known fix to these 'jumpy' levers, isn't it? The GF-TQ6 is definitely a nice-to-have stuff, something I would love to get my hands into in the future, but currently still out of my budget and therefore not in my buying list :(
I wouldn't say its a common problem. I have the pro Flight Yoke and neither it's Throttle quadrant or the separate Throttle quadrant I bought do this, only other thing I could suggest is make sure you are using it in a USB 2.0 port (not sure what the requirement is offhand?) and a powered USB hub is always a good idea. How many other USB devices do you have plugged in?Failing that then try get a warranty replacement? How long have you owned it, has it always done this?Good luck.

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Sometimes you have to take hotas apart and clean the poteniometers with an electrical cleaning solution, usually comes in a spay can, and some moving parts might have to be lubricated.Resetting the null zone might help too. Check what the manufacturer recommends for cleaning and lubricating.

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Hi All,I was in the verge of buying another controller (was thinking of the CH Throttle Quadrant)... but instead took another moment staring at these spiky sets, and then took another chance of opening it up - this time my objective was to get into the pots. Earlier I opened one and thought it is nearly impossible to get into the pots by looking at the construction... but this time i pressed on. Heck, I thought if I fail, I'd be tossing them into a box of 'dead contollers' anyway, so on I went.... and boy am I glad I did!After trying to figure out it's construction which is rather squeezy and snug, I managed to pry it open down to the pots. I am quite amazed at how tiny these pots are. I remember cleaning/replacing pots of the older sticks (eg F16 FLCS) and these babies are nowhere near those sizes! They are as small as my pinky fingernails !! I realize openning these pots maybe close to impossible (let alone clean the inside), so i tried some tricks: I figured these pots only rotate a quarter of its whole circumference during operation, so I thought fully rotating it many times in both directions would somehow "clean" the tracks and restore it's proper resistance. So I did, using a small suitable screwdriver, connected it up, popped its controller properties in Windows, rotated the pots and voila! as good as new. No more signs of even the slightest nuissances (hopefully they will remain like this for another 6 months??).At work here, so I hope tonight I can take some pictures and post it here... might help those who own these controllers and having the same problems. @dfoulk,I believe this is my 4th set of throttle Quads in my whole simming life :) (using different makes before)... among other controllers I own (eg. Force Driving wheels, Pedals).I am also aware of using dedicated USB hubs (ie. direct to PC) as opposed to using extension hubs.But thanks anyway :)

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Hi All,I was in the verge of buying another controller (was thinking of the CH Throttle Quadrant)... but instead took another moment staring at these spiky sets, and then took another chance of opening it up - this time my objective was to get into the pots. Earlier I opened one and thought it is nearly impossible to get into the pots by looking at the construction... but this time i pressed on. Heck, I thought if I fail, I'd be tossing them into a box of 'dead contollers' anyway, so on I went.... and boy am I glad I did!After trying to figure out it's construction which is rather squeezy and snug, I managed to pry it open down to the pots. I am quite amazed at how tiny these pots are. I remember cleaning/replacing pots of the older sticks (eg F16 FLCS) and these babies are nowhere near those sizes! They are as small as my pinky fingernails !! I realize openning these pots maybe close to impossible (let alone clean the inside), so i tried some tricks: I figured these pots only rotate a quarter of its whole circumference during operation, so I thought fully rotating it many times in both directions would somehow "clean" the tracks and restore it's proper resistance. So I did, using a small suitable screwdriver, connected it up, popped its controller properties in Windows, rotated the pots and voila! as good as new. No more signs of even the slightest nuissances (hopefully they will remain like this for another 6 months??).At work here, so I hope tonight I can take some pictures and post it here... might help those who own these controllers and having the same problems.
Glad you got it fixed, please do post some pics of the internals. I'm contemplating opening mine to add some lighting for the switches and would find pictures useful.

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Hi again..This is my very first attemp to post images in this forum, so forgive me if it doesn't work i'm not sure if it's gonna work... and I'll try it again.Here are the pics I took when I opened the Saitek quad. IMG_5368.jpgIMG_5369.jpgIMG_5370.jpgIMG_5371.jpgIMG_5372.jpgIMG_5373.jpgIMG_5374.jpgCheers.

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Thanks, images are fine and I've saved them for future use.Cheers.

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I am also having problems with my throttle quadrant spiking.I have 2, and the first one (delivered with yoke) is out of warranty and the middle lever is spiking very badly.I had it apart a couple of months ago, and cleaned the POT (the cheapest potentiometer I have ever seen). This fixed the problem for a couple of months, but it is now back with a vengence.I really don't fancy spending another 50 pounds replacing it with another one only for it to fail down the line (and believe me, the way they are built, they will fail).Problem is I also don't fancy paying 500 pounds for the only other ones I can find (discounting the CH quadrant).The idea behind the Saitek unit is great, but the quality is aweful!

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I have the same problem, one of the axis is spiking, and I have button problems - the are basically overreacting - going on and off in the position where they should be on (button 7-8-9 for reverse). Especially when I hold my hand on the throttle.But I have a 2year warranty still active, so I'll first send them in.

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Is it something like this?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uMLY9QORHg&feature=youtube_gdata_player

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I took mine apart, too. It seems like a lot of work, and it is! But here's a simpler method that has worked well for me:

 

If you're having trouble with the signal coming out of the pots in the Saitek Throttle Quadrant, do the following:

 

1. Unplug the USB cable.

2. Place the unit on its right side on top of a table (so the LED is at the top and T5/T6 are at the bottom).

3. Use a spray can of electrical contact cleaner with a straw on the nozzle and shoot plenty of cleaner at the base of the throttle arm. Move the arm back and forth its full length a few times.

4. Wait a few minutes for the spray to evaporate, then test.

 

The museum I volunteer at has a bunch of these. I've probably brought 30 or more units that had noisy signals back to life using this method very quickly and easily.

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I agree with Hothopper. I had the same issues with my throttle spiking and just could not get resolution with a can of air or even alcohol and a cotton swab. With the spiking getting as bad as it did and fsuipc doing all it could to help out already, I got past my concerns about contact cleaner and the effect on the plastic and took the plunge... I am a happy camper ever since. It worked and I have not had any further issues in the last 6 months.

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Sometimes you have to take hotas apart and clean the poteniometers with an electrical cleaning solution, usually comes in a spay can, and some moving parts might have to be lubricated.Resetting the null zone might help too. Check what the manufacturer recommends for cleaning and lubricating.

 

What he said.

I had the same issue few months ago, just cleaned the potentiometers with isopropyl alcohol and everything was ok.

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What he said.

I had the same issue few months ago, just cleaned the potentiometers with isopropyl alcohol and everything was ok.

Yup,that worked for me :) 

 

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Yup,that worked for me :) 

 

Worked for me too! However, after testing it and reassembling the unit, one of the little red wires broke. :mad: I must have been so excited that I was actually going to have working throttles that I got a little too careless and it broke at the connection to the little yellow peice. Does anybody know if it can be soldered back on? If so, what type of solder to use?

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