Your thoughts about this rig...

[Pochi 68]

Hello there,

 

May I ask you your thoughts about this setup?

 

It is mainly to play FSX on Full HD single monitor. Addons used would be FTX Global, ASN, Majestic Dash8, Fsl A320 to come, a few Airport sceneries and traffic.

 

I tried to go for the cheapest but most effective setup. As I currently plays on laptop, I have nothing to keep except the mouse^^

 

- Intel Core i5-6600K (3.5 GHz)
- Asus Z170-PRO GAMING
- DDR4 Kingston HyperX Fury, 2 x 4 Go, 2666 MHz, CAS 15
- Noctua NH-D15S
- MSI GeForce GTX 960 GAMING 2G, 2 Go

- Western Digital WD Black, 500 Go
- Asus DRW-24F1MT, Noir
- Wifi TP-Link TL-WN881ND

- Cooler Master N300
- Be Quiet ! Power Zone, 650W

- Microsoft Windows 10 Famille, 64 bits, OEM - Version DVD

 

Any advice would be appreciated. I am especially wondering about the CG and PSU (Is it enough?). Would the Cooler Master N300 fit that? Is there something more compact than N300 that would fit all this parts?

 

Best regards,

 

Pierre
 

[martin-w 3,234]

6600K is a good choice if you can't afford the 6700K.

 

For RAM I recommend GSkill Ripjaw V. GKill have designed the RAM specifically for Skylake and use top quality Samsung modules. You would benefit from higher frequency.

 

I have the NH-D15S too. Fantastic cooler. Noctua have now pretty much perfected the design.

 

Would be nice if you could afford the GTX 980 TI

 

A 650 watt PSU is enough. Great idea if you can go for multi-rail rather than single rail. Not sure whether the BeQuiet is single or multi-rail. 650 watts is sort of on the border line. It's 650 watts or above where multi-rail offers an advantage in terms of not compromising other PC components in the event of certain failures. No big deal, just a personal preference.

[kamaz74 81]

No SSD???

[Gary A 8]

Salute,

 

Buy the best that you can afford and as is for the money this is a good system. PSU is fine and the Noctua will fit the case.

 

There is only one thing that I would not accept on your build and that is the 500GB HDD.  $10 more and get 1-TB

 

If you can find yet another $100 you would benefit by a 970 GPU

 

I doubt that you will find a much smaller case unless you want to change form factors on your MB. Never say never but you will have to do some strong looking; maybe try looking at Lian-Li but you will pay more for the case that would be better spent on HDD and GPU.

[Pochi 68]

Thank you all for your advices!

 

Yes I may pass on the SSD and go for normal HDD at first to save money. 1To then.

 

For the GPU I will try to go for the 970. How about a used GPU? Or what do you think about getting a previous gen GPU such as 780?

 

Best regards,

 

Pierre

[Gary A 8]

 

 

For the GPU I will try to go for the 970. How about a used GPU? Or what do you think about getting a previous gen GPU such as 780?

 

GTX 780 is a fine card however discontinued and if you could find a new one it would cost same as a 970.  GTX 780 from a resale perspective, if you care, might have a hard time selling it because of the current mindset, "bigger model number (i.e. 900 instead of 700) means its automatically better." 

 

Used from a friend, relative or reputable dealer is ok. 

 

I build a system to last a minimum 5-years (which incidentally was impossible  to do in 1995 as a system would be antiquated in a year or two, three at the most), so used was never in the forefront of my thoughts.

[ryanbatc 12,833]

I'd say that's a quality system if you're on a budget - should do fine as long as you don't use tons of addons at once

[Pochi 68]

Hi,

 

After some researches, I decided to change my project a little bit. I need a more compact case, and decided to go Mini ITX.

 

Here is my updated parts: 

 

Intel Core i5-6600K (3.5 GHz)

 

ASUS Z170I PRO Gaming

 

G.Skill  Ripjaws V Red DDR4 2 x 4 Go 2400 MHz CAS 15

 

Noctua NH-U12S

 

MSI GeForce GTX 970 GAMING 4G 4 Go

 

Seagate SSHD 1to

 

Bitfenix Phenom M Blanc

 

LDLC BG-620 watts  Quality Select 80PLUS Bronze (Seasonic rebranded)

 

Windows 10 Home OEM 64Bit

 

Another question would be, what is the best frequency for RAM?

 

 

Best regards,

 

Pierre

[Gary A 8]

 

 

Another question would be, what is the best frequency for RAM?

 

Don't forget:   CD ROM.

 

DDR4 2666 15Cas

[Pochi 68]

Thanks Gary.

 

I got it for the ram. For CD Rom the Phenom M does not have the place for but I planned to buy an external one. Mainly to install FSX^^

 

Best regards,

 

Pierre

[martin-w 3,234]

Another question would be, what is the best frequency for RAM?

 

 

 

2133 MHz is the JEDEC frequency. 2400 MHz isn't much above that so pretty low spec RAM.

 

Flight sim does benefit from higher frequency to a degree, and to be honest, the price difference isn't that much higher. £30 extra from 2144 to 3200. 2400 to 2666 is just £20 more.

 

I went for GSkill Ripjaw V 3200 MHz.I'm not saying it will make a huge difference, but as I say, it's not that much more expensive.

 

Do bare in mind though, that not all motherboard/CPU combinations can achieve the highest RAM frequency. So if shooting for high RAM frequency, it makes sense to overclock first, before applying the RAM's XMP profile. If no dice, back off the RAM frequency.

 

This post might shed some light on the flight sim ram frequency issue...

 

 

http://www.avsim.com/topic/482685-ram-and-fsx/

Thanks Gary.

 

For CD Rom the Phenom M does not have the place for but I planned to buy an external one. Mainly to install FSX^^

 

Best regards,

 

Pierre

 

 

 

 

Same with my Lian Li X510. Quite a few cases now are sans the optical drive. Not surprising considering many hardly use them with Steam, Origin etc. I have an external blue ray drive. 

 

 

 

Noctua NH-U12S

 

 

 

 

The NH-U12S will be 10 degrees hotter than for example the big NH-D14/15. So bare that in mind if overclocking.

 

What about the NH-D14S? It would be only 5 degrees hotter than the NH-D14/15.

 

Next up from that would be the NH-D15S. If your case is larger enough to accommodate of course. This was my choice for cooler.

 

 

LDLC BG-620 watts  Quality Select 80PLUS Bronze (Seasonic rebranded)

 

 

Can't comment, as I know nothing about this PSU, and can't find much in terms of reviews on Google. 

 

You can get a qulaity EVGA Gold 650 watts for only £10 more. 5 year warranty. Not sure how much in your currency...

 

https://www.scan.co.uk/products/650w-evga-gq-series-80-plus-gold-hybrid-modular-sli-crossfire-single-rail-54a-plus12v-1x135mm-fan-at

 

 

 

Corsair have a PSU in that price range too, 

[Pochi 68]

Hello there,

 

Finally, I managed to build my computer this weekend. I am quite happy about how it went. I took time to manage the cable correctly^^ It was quite fun!

 

I just had enough time to boot it up to the UEFI and let it idling on the main screen for a few hours. Everything was good, barely audible fans.

 

I just wonder about my CPU temp at idle : It settled around 36°C with fans speed about 40-50% max speed (All PWM). I read that the UEFI puts a load on the CPU so temps may be a bit higher than those to be readen when idling on Windows desktop...

 

Is that normal idling temp for an i5 6600K? My cooler is an NH-U12S. I went M-ITX (Phenom) for the case but it is well ventilated. I have a Noctua 150mm fan in the front as intake and a Be Quiet fan 140 mm as exhaust at the back.

 

 

Next step will be BIOS update, Memtest, then Windows 10 install. Hope it will go well.

 

Pierre

[martin-w 3,234]

Finally, I managed to build my computer this weekend. I am quite happy about how it went. I took time to manage the cable correctly^^ It was quite fun!

 

 

 

:smile: Ha... you sound like me. I take ages at it, very fussy I am.

 

 

I just wonder about my CPU temp at idle : It settled around 36°C with fans speed about 40-50% max speed 

 

 

 

That's fine. Especially with the fans at only half speed or less.

 

Idle temps are never that accurate anyway to be honest. In the UEFI it's CPU temp rather than core temp. So measured from a single sensor under the IHS, not from within the die. Core temperature, measured with RealTemp or CoreTemp is measured from multiple sensors within the die itself. Even core temperature isn't that accurate at idle though, as it's designed to measure the offset from TJMax for thermal protection, so it gets more accurate at higher temps.

 

 

Is that normal idling temp for an i5 6600K? My cooler is an NH-U12S. I went M-ITX (Phenom) for the case but it is well ventilated. I have a Noctua 150mm fan in the front as intake and a Be Quiet fan 140 mm as exhaust at the back.

 

 

 

Max temp I'm seeing at the moment in Windows, for my 3770K is 30 degrees... that's at max CPU fan speed though. [NH-D14 is so quiet I don't need to lower the fan RPM] So with your cooler 10 degrees or so hotter than the D14, PLUS the fact you are at only 40-50% fan RPM, you are fine, all good, no issues.

 

 

Next step will be BIOS update, Memtest, then Windows 10 install. Hope it will go well.

 

 

 

BIOS update is very important. As it's a new pl;platform there will be lots of BIOS updates. They come thick and fast with a new platform. 

 

Hope all goes well, report back and let us know how you get on. Will be interesting to see the results. Meanwhile... I still haven't glued together my new Skylake rig, still refurbing bedroom.

[Pochi 68]

Thank you very much Martin! I can relax then

 

Well, yes I do not want to rush the build as this is my first :wink:

 

I will be glad to report back when going through the next steps!

 

Best regards,

 

Pierre

[martin-w 3,234]

:smile: