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Hotas Warthog and Fenix

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Is anyone using this throttle with the Fenix?  If so, can you let me know what your settings and sensitivities are?  I am finding that little movements make the NG rise too much and I can't seem to figure it out.  Any times would be great! 

Intel Core i7 12700K (5.0GHz Max Boost Clock) 12-Core CPU   32GB G.Skill Performance DDR4 SDRAM 3600MHz       Graphics Processor:12GB Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080 Ti, GDDR6x System   2TB Western Digital, NVMe M.2 Solid State Drive

 

 

 

 

I have been using the Warthog HOTAS Throttle with MSFS pretty much since MSFS was released. I do fly the Fenix quite a bit, but I have not had to make any adjustments to the throttle's sensitivity. It feels fine to me. I do find that I need to re-calibrate them within the Fenix throttle calibration every so often, as the two throttle seem to get out of sync. That only seems to happen for me with the Fenix. Other then that, though, I have not made any other adjustments to how my throttle handles work in regards to the Fenix.

AMD Ryzen 9900X3D & ASUS X870E Gaming Plus MB, w/64 Gb GSkill DDR5 RAM, PNY RTX 5090 GPU, lots of SSD's and M.2 drives, HAVN  Case, Virpil VPC Panels 2 and 3, Virpil Constellation Alpha Stick, Virpil Rotor TCS Plus w/ Hawk-60 Collective grip, TM TCA Yoke Boeing Edition, TM HOTAS A-10 and F/A-18 Sticks and TM TPR Rudder pedals. Currently on Win11

 

 

  • Author
28 minutes ago, sniper31 said:

I have been using the Warthog HOTAS Throttle with MSFS pretty much since MSFS was released. I do fly the Fenix quite a bit, but I have not had to make any adjustments to the throttle's sensitivity. It feels fine to me. I do find that I need to re-calibrate them within the Fenix throttle calibration every so often, as the two throttle seem to get out of sync. That only seems to happen for me with the Fenix. Other then that, though, I have not made any other adjustments to how my throttle handles work in regards to the Fenix.

Would you mind sharing your sensitivity settings?  I find that if I am at idle thrust / thrust lever closed, when I move the lever, nothing happens until the lever is almost straight up on the console.  Also, is there a guide for calibrating via the MCDU?

Intel Core i7 12700K (5.0GHz Max Boost Clock) 12-Core CPU   32GB G.Skill Performance DDR4 SDRAM 3600MHz       Graphics Processor:12GB Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080 Ti, GDDR6x System   2TB Western Digital, NVMe M.2 Solid State Drive

 

 

 

 

My sensitivity settings are at MSFS default for my HOTAS Throttle. As to a tutorial for the Fenix MCDU calibration, check out 320 SimPilot. He has lots of good Fenix A320 tutorial videos (as well as Airbus videos for other sims too). He covers the MCDU in this video if memory serves:

He's setting up the Thrustmaster Airbus controls on this video, but it covers the MCDU calibration.

AMD Ryzen 9900X3D & ASUS X870E Gaming Plus MB, w/64 Gb GSkill DDR5 RAM, PNY RTX 5090 GPU, lots of SSD's and M.2 drives, HAVN  Case, Virpil VPC Panels 2 and 3, Virpil Constellation Alpha Stick, Virpil Rotor TCS Plus w/ Hawk-60 Collective grip, TM TCA Yoke Boeing Edition, TM HOTAS A-10 and F/A-18 Sticks and TM TPR Rudder pedals. Currently on Win11

 

 

I have all sensitivy settings at 0 for the Fenix with my Warthog. Fly by wire is very sensitive per se, so that's realistic. You are supposed to do little movements/corrections and then let the stick go back to neutral, that's how fly by wire works. It's a tad too sensitive with 0, but that's much better than a curve on a fly by wire stick. That would be like having a sensitivty curve on your mouse. Also it a curve might mess up your flare or at least make it less natural.

For transparency: I'm a community mentor at the BATC discord. However, I do not get paid for it in any way.

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Stick wise it would probably feel just a touch too sensitive right off-center as the real stick is strongly damped, so I'd recommend maybe a tiny starting curve and then go linear after - but I use a warthog and just leave it all on linear and have learned to fly the aircraft with my fingers and not my entire arm. You end up over controlling it otherwise. Like @Fiorentoni said - a really good way to fly the airplane (and imho the best way to do to) is the bump and reset. Flying it toward the FD, just keep bumping the controls in the direction you want to go - or nudge it. Let the stick fall to center. Observe the change. Add another input. Bump, reset,  bump, reset, bump, reset. That is in normal flight. If you "bump, reset" during takeoff or the last 50ft of landing, then that's not quite going to work 😁

Aamir Thacker

9 hours ago, Aamir said:

Stick wise it would probably feel just a touch too sensitive right off-center as the real stick is strongly damped, so I'd recommend maybe a tiny starting curve and then go linear after - but I use a warthog and just leave it all on linear and have learned to fly the aircraft with my fingers and not my entire arm. You end up over controlling it otherwise. Like @Fiorentoni said - a really good way to fly the airplane (and imho the best way to do to) is the bump and reset. Flying it toward the FD, just keep bumping the controls in the direction you want to go - or nudge it. Let the stick fall to center. Observe the change. Add another input. Bump, reset,  bump, reset, bump, reset. That is in normal flight. If you "bump, reset" during takeoff or the last 50ft of landing, then that's not quite going to work 😁

Yep, exactly that. I use thumb, index and middle finger on the lower part of the joystick for small corrections, works fine and is actually quite relaxing. At least much more relaxing than trying to fly the 737 with a joystick 🙂
The warthog joystick has quite some resistance off-center (not like the real sidestick, mind you), but I imagine trying to fly with 0 sensitivity with a low-budget joystick with zero dampening is frustrating. Ironically it's exactly what you get when you use the thrustmaster "real airbus sidestick" - it's just a colored low-budget thrustmaster joystick. I really appreciate what I got back then when I spend some good money on the warthog!

For transparency: I'm a community mentor at the BATC discord. However, I do not get paid for it in any way.

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