Can we get a screenshot of the said artifacts afflicting your sims?

There http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/402/140320120831.jpg/ but I shall be replacing the card today

I would reccomend a new PSU. A cheap 450W psu won't cut it for anything. I'd reccomend a Corsair HX650W PSU.

I would reccomend a new PSU. A cheap 450W psu won't cut it for anything. I'd reccomend a Corsair HX650W PSU.

I have changed my PSU yesterday to 500w and it is a reputed company in India and its a pure 500w. It has copper for heat and the PSU is efficient. I have given my card for replacement , though @stock the card works perfectly it is only during OC that I get that green stuff on the screen.How about CM Extreme Plus 500w ? Corsair is expensive.

I have changed my PSU yesterday to 500w and it is a reputed company in India and its a pure 500w. It has copper for heat and the PSU is efficient. I have given my card for replacement , though @stock the card works perfectly it is only during OC that I get that green stuff on the screen.How about CM Extreme Plus 500w ? Corsair is expensive.

A high OC'd HD6750 uses about 20-30 more watts at OC load than stock so I don't think it is the PSU. The artifacts occurring during OC means you don't have a stable OC. Not all GPU's or CPU's will OC the same. Just because person A gets clocks X doesn't mean you can too. Many factors play a part in max OC including heat dissipation. I can OC my 7950 a lot higher than my buddy due to my case and airflow design. When you get your new card and start to OC make sure you have good ventilation in your case (cool air in and warm air out) and watch the temps. Bump the clocks until you get a few artifacts then back down and just be mindful of temps. If temps get too high then that is your culprit. Also I try not to test OC in games and prefer to use a utility like MSI's Kombuster 2 (you don't need a MSI card to use) or Unigine's Heaven. They will put a constant stress on the GPU which is what you really need to know if it is stable.

A high OC'd HD6750 uses about 20-30 more watts at OC load than stock so I don't think it is the PSU.The artifacts occurring during OC means you don't have a stable OC. Not all GPU's or CPU's will OC the same. Just because person A gets clocks X doesn't mean you can too.Many factors play a part in max OC including heat dissipation. I can OC my 7950 a lot higher than my buddy due to my case and airflow design.When you get your new card and start to OC make sure you have good ventilation in your case (cool air in and warm air out) and watch the temps. Bump the clocks until you get a few artifacts then back down and just be mindful of temps. If temps get too high then that is your culprit.Also I try not to test OC in games and prefer to use a utility like MSI's Kombuster 2 (you don't need a MSI card to use) or Unigine's Heaven. They will put a constant stress on the GPU which is what you really need to know if it is stable.

Airflow , my cabinet is always open , CPU uses Push & Pull 2 120mm fans on the Hyper TX3 got an extra fan again pulling. :), the OC was from ATI CCC Overdrive menu and did not use MSI or Ati tools too OC.I have given the card back hopefully the vendor may replace it else I may be stuck with the card. The card is really good and powerful.http://imageshack.us...0320120831.jpg/ my snapshot of the corruption.

Airflow , my cabinet is always open , CPU uses Push & Pull 2 120mm fans on the Hyper TX3 got an extra fan again pulling. :), the OC was from ATI CCC Overdrive menu and did not use MSI or Ati tools too OC.I have given the card back hopefully the vendor may replace it else I may be stuck with the card. The card is really good and powerful.http://imageshack.us...0320120831.jpg/ my snapshot of the corruption.

MSI's Kombuster 2 and Unigine's Heaven are used to test the OC not to actually OC.Like I said earlier if your card works fine at stock clocks then it is your OC at load. You need to back the OC down. Heat can cause stability issues but if you don't think heat is an issue then it is simply your OC. Back the card to stock clocks and slowly move up the OC. Your card obviously can't handle the OC you want.A good rule to OC a GPU is bump 20Mhz at a time until unstable then back down 10Mhz until you find stable.

MSI's Kombuster 2 and Unigine's Heaven are used to test the OC not to actually OC.Like I said earlier if your card works fine at stock clocks then it is your OC at load. You need to back the OC down. Heat can cause stability issues but if you don't think heat is an issue then it is simply your OC. Back the card to stock clocks and slowly move up the OC. Your card obviously can't handle the OC you want.A good rule to OC a GPU is bump 20Mhz at a time until unstable then back down 10Mhz until you find stable.

Agreed.Though I use Furmark to check my GPU stability. If it can pass Furmark's burn test, the overclock is stable.Iron, my friend. Overclocking the GPU in such a haphazard way is a sure way to kill it prematurely. In my experience (or rather my less careful friends') the GPU is much less resilient to heavy overclocks.

MSI's Kombuster 2 and Unigine's Heaven are used to test the OC not to actually OC.Like I said earlier if your card works fine at stock clocks then it is your OC at load. You need to back the OC down. Heat can cause stability issues but if you don't think heat is an issue then it is simply your OC. Back the card to stock clocks and slowly move up the OC. Your card obviously can't handle the OC you want.A good rule to OC a GPU is bump 20Mhz at a time until unstable then back down 10Mhz until you find stable.

Yeah you are right , have given the card for replacement lets see if they replace it.

Agreed.Though I use Furmark to check my GPU stability. If it can pass Furmark's burn test, the overclock is stable.Iron, my friend. Overclocking the GPU in such a haphazard way is a sure way to kill it prematurely. In my experience (or rather my less careful friends') the GPU is much less resilient to heavy overclocks.

Furmark passed tests @stock speed. I will get a replacement or the same card today and will try the 20 mhz increment OC and test.

Just got my replacement HD 6750 have not yet fit it into the system. I just realized something that the earlier card had come to me with an open box and it was not packed properly hmmm thing that was a used one,

LOL now it has red colors in the replacement card.

Just a quick thought: Did you make sure to install the latest drivers?

Just a quick thought: Did you make sure to install the latest drivers?

Yep ATI CCC 12.2 64 bit (win 7)

I upped the memory clock to 900 and the core clock to 725 and did a furmark test @1440x900 the max temp reached was 58c and the card was stable (I have put my athlon x3 445 oc back to default)I just need one more advice , today morning I connected my headphones to the inbuilt sound card on the mobo and when i removed the headphones the front pin of the headphone remained inside and there is no way that i can remove. Now I do sound so should I go for a new mobo or should I buy a new sound card? and If i go for a new motherboard which brand should I go with Asrock / Asus / Gigabyte / MSI ? I do not plan to upgrade to a bulldozer atm.

I'm sorry, but you keep saying that you don't wanna upgrade right now. Yet you keep buying stuff that doesn't improve your performance at all. Just save money and upgrade "for real" later or leave the system alone. But what you're doing right now is pretty much money down the drain. So far you bought: A new GPU (that won't run FSX better than your old one. The 6750 has about half the performance of my 2 year old 5850 and I can't get FSX to run with it), a new PSU (which is still not able to give you enough power for a "real" Hardware upgrade in the future) and now you wanna buy a new Motherboard (which won't affect your performance at all and can be trashed with the next CPU upgrade anyway)!I don't wanna sound rude, but what you're doing is just patch-working a system that is not powerful enough to run any modern game or even older ones like FSX at decent settings. I understand that you don't wanna spend a lot of money right now, that's alright. But then don't walk around and buy underpowered new Hardware that will not make any difference at all. Like I said earlier, save money for a real upgrade or donate the money and do something that matters with it...but what you're doing right now is money down the drain!

I'm sorry, but you keep saying that you don't wanna upgrade right now. Yet you keep buying stuff that doesn't improve your performance at all. Just save money and upgrade "for real" later or leave the system alone. But what you're doing right now is pretty much money down the drain. So far you bought: A new GPU (that won't run FSX better than your old one. The 6750 has about half the performance of my 2 year old 5850 and I can't get FSX to run with it), a new PSU (which is still not able to give you enough power for a "real" Hardware upgrade in the future) and now you wanna buy a new Motherboard (which won't affect your performance at all and can be trashed with the next CPU upgrade anyway)!

Hi speedbird,I entirely agree on your points. I bought the new GPU to run XPX but I am planing on exchanging it with a 6850. FSX runs quite well on the system OK not too well but decent. The PSU which I bought is a well known reputed PSU in India and has been advised by my many vendors as it gives good 500w output (probably did rush it with the PSU as I could have got a CM Extreme 500w with 20$ more). LOL I am asking about the mobo is due to the sound card as my phone pin stuck right in and there is no way I can remove, so I am thinking of either getting a sound card or a new mobo :)