I'm running Windows 8.1 and using FSUIPC to calibrate my ch yoke and pedals..

 

The only part I cant figure out the proper way to calibrate is the pedals at this point.. without calibration I have the old issue i had before where after returning to center from pushing the left pedal.. it stays a little left of center.. which causes the plane to drift/bank left (you can see this visually too and in the ch calibration tool).. so previously to counter this i think i used a dead zone of 50%.. 

 

Since now using the FSUIPC interface i'm not sure if thats set by the max/min areas.. unclear on what pedal i should press for max/min and how to establish a dead zone per say to help fix this issue..

 

(issue alone.. has anyone else had this problem with the ch pedals.. seems to be driver/hardware related, maybe time for a new set of pedals too).

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

Go into joystick calibration in FSUIPC and reset current settings. Then check your pedals' range by testing the full range. I set mine to about 14900/-14900. Let the middle zones stay at 512/-512 unless you have an extremely unreliable center. Also make sure your toe brakes are calibrated with decent null zones. I use the same values for them. Remember to click reverse for the toe brakes. I don't install any drivers for my yoke and pedals. I only use FSUIPC. Also, remeber to disable joysticks in FSX (Ctrl + K).

Go into joystick calibration in FSUIPC and reset current settings. Then check your pedals' range by testing the full range. I set mine to about 14900/-14900. Let the middle zones stay at 512/-512 unless you have an extremely unreliable center. Also make sure your toe brakes are calibrated with decent null zones. I use the same values for them. Remember to click reverse for the toe brakes. I don't install any drivers for my yoke and pedals. I only use FSUIPC. Also, remeber to disable joysticks in FSX (Ctrl + K).

 

When you say you "set yours to 14900/-14900".. how did you do this.. IE: do you push left pedal to a certain limit then hit max (or min)? then same for right?  

 

I had done that for the toe brakes.. wasnt too hard on that one.. did the whole 2/3 press for min to avoid accidental tapping on a rudder move.

When you say you "set yours to 14900/-14900".. how did you do this.. IE: do you push left pedal to a certain limit then hit max (or min)? then same for right?  

 

I had done that for the toe brakes.. wasnt too hard on that one.. did the whole 2/3 press for min to avoid accidental tapping on a rudder move.

Yes, I press the pedals and hit min/max when it is at the value I want. Pedal is on the same axis, so left and right is min and max (don't remember which is which), unlike the toe brakes which have separate axes for left and right.

Like simmerhead mentioned, you can use FSUIPC to calibrate out the slop in the middle of the axis.

 

I prefer to calibrate all of my CH gear (Eclipse Yoke, Fighterstick, Pro Throttle, Throttle Quadrant, and Pro Pedals) using the CH Control Manager prior to using FSUIPC. This ensures that I get the full travel of the axis for use within FSUIPC.

Like simmerhead mentioned, you can use FSUIPC to calibrate out the slop in the middle of the axis.

 

I prefer to calibrate all of my CH gear (Eclipse Yoke, Fighterstick, Pro Throttle, Throttle Quadrant, and Pro Pedals) using the CH Control Manager prior to using FSUIPC. This ensures that I get the full travel of the axis for use within FSUIPC.

 

I used CH control manager for calibration first.. i just need to figure out the min/max/centering from within FSUIPC to eliminate the left drift.. guessing i may also need to set center a little right of center to counter it as well.

Yes, I press the pedals and hit min/max when it is at the value I want. Pedal is on the same axis, so left and right is min and max (don't remember which is which), unlike the toe brakes which have separate axes for left and right.

 

I do the same, and it seems to work fine for me.  As a couple posts above, I haven't calibrated using CH Control Manager first since I'm using FSUIPC.  Thanks, maybe one of these days I'll try that.

 

Rod

I have never installed the CH drivers, and never had a problem.

I have never installed the CH drivers, and never had a problem.

 

Well, since just calibrating with FSUIPC and not having problems, I don't think I'll do the CH Control Manager install.  I get to experimenting so much, I end up screwing things up...ha

 

Rod

Well this helped to configure things in FSUIPC.. however i think there is a problem with the pedals..

 

I tried multiple USB ports.. same difference..

 

If you open ch control panel up and watch the z axis ball.. when you press the left pedal (not toe brake) and then let it go back to center on own it returns to the spot it was as in the image, which is above what would be center.. so then when you press the right pedal forward.. and release it.. it will hurry up, stop at what should be dead center on the image.. then drift up for about 4 seconds to the spot shown in the image.. hence when in flight sim.. any right rudder press that is released, ends up going over center and turns into a left rudder by a small margin.

 

update:  definitely an issue with the right pedal.. press it forward.. release.. it stays below that center line by say 1/2" and takes its good ole time moving back up to center.. maybe 10 seconds or so.. i was able to mitigate the ball being above center, by simply waiting on the last step of calibration for centering until the ball moved up till it stopped.. it didnt help with the right pedal lag on return though.

If you cannot calibrate out that slop then I think you have three options:

 

1. Use CH Control Manager or FSUIPC to set a large enough dead-zone that you don't notice it's effects.
2. Send the Pro Pedals in for repair under warranty.
3. Replace the pot for rudder inside yourself, which sounds like is the problem, but voids your warranty. I should also mention that once you open the Pro Pedals, it's a bugger to get them back together correctly!

 

If you cannot calibrate out that slop then I think you have three options:

 

1. Use CH Control Manager or FSUIPC to set a large enough dead-zone that you don't notice it's effects.
2. Send the Pro Pedals in for repair under warranty.
3. Replace the pot for rudder inside yourself, which sounds like is the problem, but voids your warranty. I should also mention that once you open the Pro Pedals, it's a bugger to get them back together correctly!

 

Mine are out of warranty.. 

 

Are there any guides showing how to change the potentiometers?  Or which to buy to replace.. Quick glance found some links but they were outdated.. if they are cheap enough i could probably handle the swap.. otherwise maybe time for new pedals anyway.. better ones.. saitek maybe.

I don't know the pedals from SAITEK, but everything else they make seems to be of abysmal quality. I've got their Yoke, extra THQ, two Radio Panels, Switch Panel, Multi Panel and TPM. They all have quality issues. While my CH Pedals look like crap, I'm not buying anything more from Saitek. Extremely sad since they are innovative and easy to use products.

Mine are out of warranty.. 

 

Are there any guides showing how to change the potentiometers?  Or which to buy to replace.. Quick glance found some links but they were outdated.. if they are cheap enough i could probably handle the swap.. otherwise maybe time for new pedals anyway.. better ones.. saitek maybe.

 

I bought my replacement pots from here to replace the Y-Axis pot of my Eclipse Yoke and the Z-Axis of the Pro Pedals: http://www.res-rich.com/chproducts_com/www.chproducts.com/shop/parts.html  You need the HP100 pot.

 

There is no video guide that I know of. When I replaced mine, I just took it apart as carefully and slowly as I could, documenting all of the screws and pieces/parts that I removed or moved during the disassembly. The pot actually sits in a groove and is held in place by the two halves of the Pro Pedal case and the linkage inside. The wiring from the pot to the PCB inside is not soldered, but has lugs that attach to the pot, so replacement was very easy once I had the unit disassembled. The most difficult part for me was reassembling, because it's tricky to get the two halves to come together without having the rollers from the pedals fall out or the pot to fall out of position depending on what side you have on the bottom when putting it back together.

I bought my replacement pots from here to replace the Y-Axis pot of my Eclipse Yoke and the Z-Axis of the Pro Pedals: http://www.res-rich.com/chproducts_com/www.chproducts.com/shop/parts.html  You need the HP100 pot.

 

There is no video guide that I know of. When I replaced mine, I just took it apart as carefully and slowly as I could, documenting all of the screws and pieces/parts that I removed or moved during the disassembly. The pot actually sits in a groove and is held in place by the two halves of the Pro Pedal case and the linkage inside. The wiring from the pot to the PCB inside is not soldered, but has lugs that attach to the pot, so replacement was very easy once I had the unit disassembled. The most difficult part for me was reassembling, because it's tricky to get the two halves to come together without having the rollers from the pedals fall out or the pot to fall out of position depending on what side you have on the bottom when putting it back together.

 

Hmm ok thanks.. i'm assuming there is one for left and right.. perhaps i only need the right or maybe i should just change both if so.