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Posted

Ok, case sits on two 2x4 blocks, which sits on carpet in my basement.  Most of the wall plates/light switches discharge static like crazy in here.  The humidifier seems to be helping a little.

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Posted

Ok, case sits on two 2x4 blocks, which sits on carpet in my basement. Most of the wall plates/light switches discharge static like crazy in here. The humidifier seems to be helping a little.

One thing you could do to prevent static electric charges from building up on your body when walking across the carpeted floor in your computer room would be to remove both your shoes and socks - i.e. go barefoot! Probably not the most comfortable thing on a cold day, but it will definitely prevent static discharges.

 

Try it and see... If you are in your bare feet you can touch light switch plates etc. and will probably get no spark at all.

Jim Barrett

Licensed Airframe & Powerplant Mechanic, Avionics, Electrical & Air Data Systems Specialist. Qualified on: Falcon 900, CRJ-200, Dornier 328-100, Hawker 850XP and 1000, Lear 35, 45, 55 and 60, Gulfstream IV and 550, Embraer 135, Beech Premiere and 400A, MD-80.

Posted

Normally I discharge on the wall outlets hehe.  But my other kiddos don't understand and end up touching the case after rolling around the carpeted floor in their flannel PJ's....  

 

I'll keep my socks on already too cold downstairs... we keep it around 66-68.

| FAA ZMP |
| PPL ASEL |
| Windows 11 | MSI Z690 Tomahawk | 12700K 4.7GHz | MSI RTX 4080 | 32GB 5600 MHz DDR5 | 500GB Samsung 860 Evo SSD | 2x 2TB Samsung 970 Evo M.2 | EVGA 850W Gold | Corsair 5000X | HP G2 (VR) / LG 27" 1440p |

 

 

Posted

Ok, case sits on two 2x4 blocks, which sits on carpet in my basement.  Most of the wall plates/light switches discharge static like crazy in here.  The humidifier seems to be helping a little.

 

Are you saying static electricity is cause crashes?  Then fix the computer.  A most painful shock to the computer case or keyboard should not cause any crash.  IOW use static electricity to find an internal defect.

 

  For example, if off the floor and static discharges are less painful.  Then attach a wire from one corner of the computer the floor.  Static discharge to other corners.  Which ones cause a computer crash?  IOW determine the path from finger to other corner that causes crashes.  A defect is in that path.

 

  Same applies to the keyboard.  Static discharges should cause no crash.  Determine any paths from finger to wire that causes crashes.  Only then can we move on to finding the defect.  Then later eliminate it.

Posted

I receive an "ouch" when I touch the front bezel of my case - the part that comes off to reveal optical drive access. That's the part that, when I or anyone else touches, CAN restart the PC. It doesn't always which makes this issue hard to track.

 

Yes I am saying static causes the crash - but there may be more factors like ultra dry room humidity, low line voltage and then the instability created when PC on battery backup while line is boosted to 128v or so, or when line is really low say 108v and static is discharged when someone touches front bezel.

 

My motherboard came out with the dawn of USB 3.0, the cables are just pass through (connected from rear ports through case to front ports on the front bezel) - I wonder if that creating a ungrounded path for static to travel?

 

Really all along my PC would probably exhibit this behavior. But previously it was essentially hidden in a corner in my office. No one would touch it except me. Also this is the most dry it's ever been in my house (just an observation not scientifically proven)

| FAA ZMP |
| PPL ASEL |
| Windows 11 | MSI Z690 Tomahawk | 12700K 4.7GHz | MSI RTX 4080 | 32GB 5600 MHz DDR5 | 500GB Samsung 860 Evo SSD | 2x 2TB Samsung 970 Evo M.2 | EVGA 850W Gold | Corsair 5000X | HP G2 (VR) / LG 27" 1440p |

 

 

Posted

Yes I am saying static causes the crash - but there may be more factors like ultra dry room humidity, low line voltage and then the instability created when PC on battery backup while line is boosted to 128v or so, or when line is really low say 108v and static is discharged when someone touches front bezel.

 

  When driest - where static discharges are worst - a properly constructed computer should be static shocked and not crash.  Deal with each problem separatedly.

 

  For example, ignore line voltage, static electricity, and the battery backup.  Get numbers from six wires using the meter as described earlier.  That task should take maybe one or two minutes.  That is one anomaly.  Nothing more about that anomaly can be posted unitl three digit numbers from six wires are obtained.

 

  Do static discharge tests to create a discharge from one spot across the chassis to another.  An incoming (finger) to outgoing (wire) path that causes most crashes must be identified.  That is irrelevant to a completely different anomaly identified by using the meter.

 

  Low voltage to a computer is something below 85 volts.  Meter measured voltages (from six wires) should not change when line voltage is 90 volts or 130 volts.  Because this potential anomaly is separate and different from others.  Deal with each separately.

 

 Information for each anomaly was described.  Perform experiments to step towards a solution for each.  Purpose of those facts will not be apparent until much later.  Nothing more for each anomaly can be discussed until those facts are provided. Do both experiments, at this point, without knowing why or knowing what it will solve.

Posted

Maybe this has been mentioned before.  Cheap way to rid yourself of static.

 

http://mondocondo.net/Hardware/Static.htm

 

http://www.bukisa.com/articles/25893_static-guard-your-carpet-with-downey-fabric-softener

 

http://www.food.com/recipe/removing-static-electricity-from-your-home-350346

 

http://www.ehow.com/how_2209553_eliminate-carpet-static-fabric-softener.html

 

Ratio to water is different in each one, but we used it full strength and static never came back.

 

Hook

Larry Hookins

 

Oh! I have slipped the surly bonds of Earth
And danced the skies on laughter-silvered wings;

Posted

Thanks for the anti static help links!

 

Westom, your results:

 

I set my multimeter to 20 DCV, black probe on case (and in COM on tester), red (VmA on tester) into wires on the ATX 24pin connector colors:

 

Purple wire .70

Green wire .41 – takes three seconds to go from .41 to 0

Gray wire 0 to .95 in four seconds

Then I ran music on my PC:

Red wire - .85

Orange wire - .41

Yellow wire – 3.41

 

Additionally I ran my PSU tester with everything in tolerance except the P.G which showed (technically on the high side) 581ms.  Thermaltake says 100-500 is normal, internet says 100-600…

+5V / +12V / +3.3V / -12V / 5VSB / PG:

5.0 / 12.2 / 3.3 / 12.1 / 5.1 / 581

| FAA ZMP |
| PPL ASEL |
| Windows 11 | MSI Z690 Tomahawk | 12700K 4.7GHz | MSI RTX 4080 | 32GB 5600 MHz DDR5 | 500GB Samsung 860 Evo SSD | 2x 2TB Samsung 970 Evo M.2 | EVGA 850W Gold | Corsair 5000X | HP G2 (VR) / LG 27" 1440p |

 

 

Posted

Purple wire .70

Green wire .41 – takes three seconds to go from .41 to 0

Gray wire 0 to .95 in four seconds

Then I ran music on my PC:

Red wire - .85

Orange wire - .41

Yellow wire – 3.41

 

 

 First, a PSU tester is wasted money.  It can identify some defects.  But cannot report any power supply as good.  What some consider 'in tolerance' can still be defective.  That will be apparent once some good three digit numbers for each wire are obtained.  A power 'system' is more than just a PSU. The entire 'system' must be tested with all components interconnected.  A tester is only testing one component; not the many other  'system' components.  A solution is complicated if any connector is disconnected.

 

Second, a purple wire cannot be 0.7 volts.  As noted earlier, it must be somewhere around 5 volts.  Something is seriously wrong since a computer cannot even power up if its purple wire is 0.7.

 

  Put the black and red meter leads to a nine volt (or 1.5 volt) battery.  If meter does not report somewhere around 9 volts (or 1.5), then the meter needs fixing.  If it does measure about 9, then we will move on to discover why every posted number makes no sense,

 

  Hopefully no connectors inside the computer were disconnected.  Instructions did not request that.  And changes only complicate a solution.

 

  Third, once the actual static defect is identified and fixed, then those other anti--static solutions were to be recommended.  Curing symptoms now does not fix an actual defect.  A computer must suffer the most powerful static shock and not crash.  Only then are anti-static solutions implemented as part of a 'layered' solution.

Posted

Not sure what's with the purple wire voltage.... maybe I didn't jam it far enough into the connector... but I was already breaking the plastic shielding so I decided to not really push it hard.

 

The meter checks out okay.

 

I've added a humidifier to my room now.  I've discharged on the wall plate before computing (and try to keep the kids from directly touching the case).  I've been about a week free of reboots.

 

Oddly enough my son was playing on the carpet, stood up and touched my PS3 and it rebooted, and then forgot the main settings because it asked about audio and video input.

 

The one downside that seems to be related to this whole ordeal is that my overclock of 4.4GHz is no longer stable.  I had to go to 4.2.  Unfortunately I feel I can really tell a difference (lots of Orbx flying with payware planes)....I'm just past the three year mark for hardware so maybe an upgrade is in order.... ugh...

 

As far as the PSU goes... still makes the buzzing noise under load but at random intervals - I'll probably RMA it but I don't want to be without my PC for a long period of time.  And if Seasonic says nothing is wrong they charge me $25.... which is stupid... and I have to pay shipping to get it back.

| FAA ZMP |
| PPL ASEL |
| Windows 11 | MSI Z690 Tomahawk | 12700K 4.7GHz | MSI RTX 4080 | 32GB 5600 MHz DDR5 | 500GB Samsung 860 Evo SSD | 2x 2TB Samsung 970 Evo M.2 | EVGA 850W Gold | Corsair 5000X | HP G2 (VR) / LG 27" 1440p |

 

 

Posted

Not sure what's with the purple wire voltage.... maybe I didn't jam it far enough into the connector... but I was already breaking the plastic shielding so I decided to not really push it hard.

 

The meter checks out okay.

 

 

Every posted number was wrong; not just the purple wire.  If the meter is working, then directions were violated.  Those numbers imply a probe connecting to something. BTW, all measurements must be made without making any changes or disconnecting anything.

 

  Implied and hopefully not used in any measuring was that PSU tester.

 

  If a probe is too fat, then push a tiny screwdriver or sewing needle in.  Touch / attach the probe to that or some other thin metal rod.

 

  No reason exists to spend time and money sending a PSU to Seasonic.  Since 1) it is a power 'system'.  A PSU is only one part of that system.  You are not sending the entire 'system' to Seasonic..  2) The meter, if used as described, means a PSU and other 'system' parts are defined good or bad - without doubts.

 

  BTW, static discharges to a computer is how to identify a manufacturing / assembly defect.  Humidity only cured a symptom; did not solve the defect.  A defect was not identified and elminated.

Posted

Unfortunately without knowing what exactly the problem was I can't know whether or not I fixed it.  

 

I lost my original OC for good.... I'm down to 4.2Ghz and 1.28v to keep it stable

I added a humidifier and haven't seen a reboot in about two weeks (even my wife noticed the lack of reboots)

I took my PC off of the UPS - I almost think it was more unstable when on the battery backup

And generally I discharge static off the light switch screws / keep my kids off the tower unless they discharge too lol

| FAA ZMP |
| PPL ASEL |
| Windows 11 | MSI Z690 Tomahawk | 12700K 4.7GHz | MSI RTX 4080 | 32GB 5600 MHz DDR5 | 500GB Samsung 860 Evo SSD | 2x 2TB Samsung 970 Evo M.2 | EVGA 850W Gold | Corsair 5000X | HP G2 (VR) / LG 27" 1440p |

 

 

Posted

Sorry to hear about the lack of resolution on your problem. Unfortunately it's par for the course for a lot of FSX hardware issues. You should still get good performance at 4.2GHz though.
 
I see that you use the TrackIR system. Is it worth the money? I've been thinking about it for my next big ticket addon. Right now I'm in the process of adding up my investment in this hobby. I'm not sure, but I think I could have bought that real world Cessna Citation X I've always wanted for the same $$$$$!
 
Well I hope you can get back to some flying. I've been circling the globe in the PMDG T7 since November. Of course I had to upgrade to PFPX and AivlaSoft EFB to support it. The suite of these three programs is as realistic as possible - plus for the most part, they have worked together without hanging up or crashing.
 
Rick

Posted

I like TIR much better in a general aviation environment - it's decent for airliners but mainly only for the visual approach portion.  I've got their NGX and enjoy it but it's a hog on the VAS so I tend to turn down my settings.  I hear their T7 is more optimized.  Mainly I just fly GA but TIR is pretty good.  You'll need a good profile.  There's one called "Seth - Flight" over at naturalpoint forums.  I recommend that one.  Day 1 after purchasing I wanted to return my unit (the TIR and the TCP).  Day 2 I found that profile and the rest is history.

 

Anyway about the reboot thing - maybe I'll get some more courage to get some better readings off my wires like westom requested...

| FAA ZMP |
| PPL ASEL |
| Windows 11 | MSI Z690 Tomahawk | 12700K 4.7GHz | MSI RTX 4080 | 32GB 5600 MHz DDR5 | 500GB Samsung 860 Evo SSD | 2x 2TB Samsung 970 Evo M.2 | EVGA 850W Gold | Corsair 5000X | HP G2 (VR) / LG 27" 1440p |

 

 

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