Hi Paulo,

Yep, totally agree! The build of the rest of the yoke is good but the wiring sucks.

I went back to my correspondence I had with ACE at the time having read this post  and I had 3 broken wires that control the trim switches that needed repair.

ACE said to me at the time there should be some foam packing material that protects the cabling but it sounds like this is still not doing the job.

Regards
Mark

I was able to find the software Beta Innovations used to flash the board and other utilities. It's called Device Manager and I found it here.

I also took pictures of the 4 axis momentary switch and not a hat switch which is what I paid for.

Edited August 25, 20205 yr by Samaritano

19 minutes ago, Samaritano said:

I also took pictures of the 4 axis momentary switch and not a hat switch which is what I paid for.

Actually in terms of working principle a hat switch is exactly the same as a 4-axis momentary switch. It's not a matter of a switch itself but rather how it's interpreted by a control board's firmware. And judging by the photo of the switch back, it's a high-performance type from Infinity Aerospace rated at min. 500K cycles used in real-aviation sticks and yokes- way better than the standard hat switch based on tact buttons.

20 minutes ago, SergeyPe said:

Actually in terms of working principle a hat switch is exactly the same as a 4-axis momentary switch. It's not a matter of a switch itself but rather how it's interpreted by a control board's firmware. And judging by the photo of the switch back, it's a high-performance type from Infinity Aerospace rated at min. 500K cycles used in real-aviation sticks and yokes- way better than the standard hat switch based on tact buttons.

I guess it is a matter of programing the PlasmaMM2 board. Maybe it is not wired to the board as a hat switch or It was not programmed as one. Don't know about the switch but I took it apart and it is cheaply made.

When I run the Device Manager software this is what I see. Check out the HAT switch tab.

 

1 hour ago, Samaritano said:

When I run the Device Manager software this is what I see. Check out the HAT switch tab.

Have you tried to change the hat mode to Digital? I'm not familiar with the board, but it looks like the POV mode is using analog inputs to connect the gamepad- type thumbstick.

52 minutes ago, SergeyPe said:

Have you tried to change the hat mode to Digital? I'm not familiar with the board, but it looks like the POV mode is using analog inputs to connect the gamepad- type thumbstick.

 

Yes. I did try. I did not do anything. I'll have to open the yoke and see how the switch is connected to the board.

 

Hi Guys,

I've soldered the wires back on the switch and it is working now, also I've greased up the yoke inside and it is ready to go.

On another note, ACE has read all the messages that I've sent them over the last couple of days thru Messenger and they did not reply not even with a single word.  Absolutely unbelievable, this company does not deserve a place on the market, much less selling a yoke as nice as this one.

Cheers.

I am glad you were able to take care of the problem. What kind of grease did you use? I might have to do the same.

Does anybody knows what the name of those specific connectors or should I say sockets that they use in the types of boards? One of the wires came off from the socket and I need to get more or those types of sockets along with a crimper. 

13 hours ago, Samaritano said:

Does anybody knows what the name of those specific connectors or should I say sockets that they use in the types of boards?

On the board photos these look like IDC connectors with 2.54 mm pitch contacts. I'm not sure what mating sockets are used by ACE- could you make a photo? Are they using the ribbon cables or the single wires?

The connector or socket size is 5mm and overall dimension of the connector 11mm. 
Pics

 

I was looking at a PA-09 crimper and dupont connectors but I’m not sure because there are so many different kinds. Also the wire gauge on that ribbon cable is probably like what, 28 gauge?

Edited August 29, 20205 yr by Samaritano

OK, clear. They use a combination of an IDC (on board) and Dupont (or, rather, Mini-PV) connector for the cable.

Here is a great explanation on the connectors and crimping tools which shows why a PA-09 (while being a great tool) won't work with Dupont connectors (I can confirm it) due to incorrect insulation crimping. The only reasonably-priced tool that I would recommend is YS-09-A/G from Kely- it works fine. All the others are either much more expensive or not suitable for the job, including all cheap "universal" crimpers claiming Dupont compatibility. A Hozan P-707 will most probably work as well, but as the PA-09 it needs two separate crimps (wire and insulation), doesn't have a force-limiting mechanism and the price is the same as with Kely.

The contacts look like the regular Dupont 2.54mm female connectors.

As for the cable gauge- with separate Dupont contacts it can be anything between 24-30.

Great. Thanks for all the good info. I found that link you shared on reddit and I've been reading. It is very informative. I'll look for the Mini-PV connector son Amazon or try maybe eBay.

Thank you Sergey

You are welcome😀. Just one advice- look for "Dupont female", not "Mini-PV": the latter are way more expensive, and IMHO do not have any tangible benefits over the cheaper clones. 

2 hours ago, SergeyPe said:

You are welcome😀. Just one advice- look for "Dupont female", not "Mini-PV": the latter are way more expensive, and IMHO do not have any tangible benefits over the cheaper clones. 

Will do. Greatly appreciate your help.