51 minutes ago, Christopher Low said:

I have tested both sets of RAM sticks at the same time, but I have not tested them one at a time. The same problem occurred with both sets of RAM sticks (in both sets of RAM slots).

I sincerely hope, for your own sakes you did not when you say 'both sets' not fit your current DDR3 RAM sticks to your new MoBo as Martin advised you not to, as you'd kaput that new Asus MoBo, and by 'both sets' in fact only mean the two DDR4 sticks? And as Martin has also pointed out the idea is to check out those DDR4 RAM sticks, one by one in the 2x dual channel slots your MoBo probably has, i.e. DDR4 RAM stick#1 into Channel 1 then Channel 3, then Channel 2 and 4, with each stick to eliminate either a faulty stick or a faulty Channel.

Those G.Skill Tridents should be, theoretically, fine for your MoBo but there is a Vendors List in the Manual for that MoBo

40 minutes ago, martin-w said:

 

Dunno... 😁

 

 

Some things hardware. 🙂

Don't worry, Martin.I figured it out this morning and have all card slots on that Reader now working as per. Thanks, nevertheless.

Edited December 28, 20196 yr by vc10man
Grammar

Don't worry, Rick. Those DDR3 RAM sticks will not be going anywhere near my new motherboard! With respect to the single RAM stick testing....do I need to test all four RAM sticks in all four slots separately? In other words, a total of sixteen tests? I would have assumed that I could rule out any of the RAM slots being faulty if one of the sticks works in all of them?

39 minutes ago, Christopher Low said:

Don't worry, Rick. Those DDR3 RAM sticks will not be going anywhere near my new motherboard! With respect to the single RAM stick testing....do I need to test all four RAM sticks in all four slots separately? In other words, a total of sixteen tests? I would have assumed that I could rule out any of the RAM slots being faulty if one of the sticks works in all of them?

So, so glad to hear that, Christopher. Phew 🤣If you have 4 sticks of that DDR4 G.Skill Trident Z RAM that you bought from Rob, then follow this methodology:

• Stick 1, place in DDR Channel 1. Try booting. If all okay, switch off and try Channel 3 with same stick, re-boot. If all okay, put a sticker with either 'ok' or a 'tick' on that stick and put it to one side. Repeat for stick #2 as you did for stick #1
• Next, try stick #3 in Channel 2, then Channel 4, same as above. Last, try stick # 4 like you did stick #3.
• Next, tedious I know, but sure fire way to find a faulty Channel or stick. Do the same with sticks 1+2 in Channel 2 and 4 one at a time.Likewise, for sticks 3+4 in Channel 1+3 one at a time. Get the drift?

Either one of those 4 sticks will either come up a cropper, or one of those Dual-Channels will. Then as Martin has already stated it's a case of RMA.

Pity I cannot attach images otherwise I'd have attached a shot from my Asus manual

Edited December 28, 20196 yr by vc10man

I unplugged the DVD SATA connection, and then tested each of the RAM sticks in each of the RAM slots. Rather random results to be honest, apart from a suspicion that RAM Channel 3 (B1) may possibly have an issue (but even that is inconclusive). One thing is certain though......the PC failed to boot from that USB stick (which boots to the initial Windows 10 setup screen without any problems in my existing PC) with any of the single RAM sticks in any of the RAM Channels.

Would these rather inconsistent results point to a power issue? I guess even one of the power cables could be dodgy?

I am going to look for a replacement CMOS battery today. I will need to remove the graphics card to get at it though

Edited December 29, 20196 yr by Christopher Low

I will give you a list of the Q codes that I noted down during testing of the RAM sticks.....

• 01 - Power On. Reset type detection (soft/hard)
• 04 - PCH initialisation before microcode loading
• 61 - NVRAM initialisation
• 62 - Installation of the PCH runtime services (this one was usually shown after the boot beep from the Speaker)
• 78 - ACPI module initialisation
• 99 - Super IO initialisation

The five numbers other than 62 were displayed when the PC failed to reboot following the USB drive load sequence (monitor goes into sleep mode). This seems to be at the point when the hard drive light flickers just before the appearance of the initial Windows 10 setup screen (as seen on my existing PC), Sometimes I get the IRQL NOT LESS OR EQUAL light blue screen just before the attempted reboot, and sometimes it just powers off the monitor and reboots without this screen.

1 hour ago, Christopher Low said:

I am going to look for a replacement CMOS battery today. I will need to remove the graphics card to get at it though

Yes, sadly, it does entail that. If you have a Home Bargains store in Ulverston, you can pick up a CMOS cell battery from them rather than rip-off Wilkos.

Did you put that Windows 10 iso on that USB stick and create it as a the First Boot Device in your BIOS so that the new PC is not looking at the Windows 10 DVD disc in the DVD drive to boot off? And you need to create a program with associated to that iso to mount it.

Download Rufus 3.8 and run it to associate that Windows 10 iso file to boot off that USB.

Are all CMOS batteries the same?

Edited December 29, 20196 yr by Christopher Low

Generally are, Christopher.  CR2032 is the code to look for

18 hours ago, vc10man said:

 

Don't worry, Martin.I figured it out this morning and have all card slots on that Reader now working as per. Thanks, nevertheless.

 

Well I could have spent some time thinking about your issue, so apologies for that. But there was a problem. My cat has a habit of charging into my room, squatting down at the rear of my PC and looking up at me mischievously. This is prior to attacking my cables hanging from the rear of the PC. Rapid action as required to entice him out with left over turkey. 

3 hours ago, Christopher Low said:

Are all CMOS batteries the same?

 

Type is on the battery itself. Common battery, easy to find. 

6 minutes ago, martin-w said:

 

Well I could have spent some time thinking about your issue, so apologies for that. But there was a problem. My cat has a habit of charging into my room, squatting down at the rear of my PC and looking up at me mischievously. This is prior to attacking my cables hanging from the rear of the PC. Rapid action as required to entice him out with left over turkey. 

Not a sweat, Martin. What with the added Festive Season and other things that occupy us, rather than wait as to or if you could suggest a solution, I decided to go back on a theory that has always been my rescue----go backwards in the process---and sure enough after re-setting, re-connecting, the 1x 9-pin male to splitter 2x 9-pin female, then figuring as per your 'look for a triangle', soon had the USB1.0 header from that Akasa card reader powering the card reading side of it, and once my CF and SD cards initialised in Explorer, I was home and dry.

Cats, dogs, et al have personalities that is always fascinating to me. The only thing that distinguishes them from us is that they cannot verbally talk, but their intelligence is nature;s unique gift. So, what your cat gets up to is a lovely anecdote at this time of the year. What's that oft-said saying..........if turkeys could vote for Christmas................your feline pet would lose out🤣

I have replaced the CMOS battery, but that has not made any difference. Oh, well.....it was a long shot anyway

Edited December 29, 20196 yr by Christopher Low

8 minutes ago, Christopher Low said:

I have replaced the CMOS battery, but that has not made any difference. Oh, well.....it was a long shot anyway

Have you tried the creating iso file for the USB and then booting of it?

Is that different to creating a bootable USB drive for installing Windows 10?

That earlier advice I gave you to download Rufus, creates a a bootable USB from the ISO file  you can obtain. Plug it in and that  USB drive in and Rufus will create the Windows 10 installation window for you to get under way.