ESzczesniak

I have some musings wondering if this is a move to ease a transition to a subscription model. It's the trend of almost all software. I despise it, but expect this to be somewhere in the future. While confirmed as a new title, I haven't seen anything about pricing and sales model.

Make sure you have throttles mapped to all 4 engines, or a single master throttle axis. I have split throttles on a HOTAS that was mapped to throttles 1 and 2. In the cockpit, it only looks like a 2 engine airplane, but it's programmed as 4 engines. I couldn't get above about mach 3.8. Once I mapped throttles to all 4 throttles, I easily got to mach 10.

Only if it’s arrested!

I am having an issue with some of my Winwing devices not showing in SimApp. This is apparently related to Windows updating the driver to some version that causes SimApp to not recognize it beyond as a USB game controller. In an FAQ they review uninstalling the driver, clearing the registry with a .bat file, and reinstalling... https://wwsimstore.com/view/help.html?nav=W3siaWQiOjIsInRpdGxlIjoiU2VydmljZSJ9LHsiaWQiOjgsInRpdGxlIjoiU29mdHdhcmUifV0=&id=d3d0NDU= I am on the latest build of Windows 11 and their instructions are not matching with what I'm finding. They direct to Window>Devices. I don't directly have a "Windows" menu option, and if I type devices, all I get is "bluetooth and other devices". The next steps are to open properties, select a driver tab, then uninstall. This seems most like the Windows device manager, but I can't figure out how I could possible identify a specific device. Under human interface device, I get a lot of generic names such as "HID-compliant consumer control device". The game controller menu doesn't give me driver options. Can anyone help me with how to uninstall the drivers a game controller?

I order a new laptop that arrived today, an Asus ROG Strix G16. The laptop comes with a 1 TB NVME drive by default. I had acquired a 4 TB and 2 TB M.2 2280 NVME drive planning to completely ditch the 1 TB drive that came with the laptop. I booted windows, pulled the Windows registry key, then opened the computer up and placed the two new drives in the two M.2 bays, removing the old one. I was able to boot in to the Windows USB install media, but when it came time to select where to install Windows, no HDD partitions were seen. A bit tedious, but replaced the old SSD, keeping one new one. Started windows, and then with disk manager created a GPT drive, and quick formated to a NTFS partition. I then did the same thing with the other drive. With both new hard drives in place, I can see them in BIOS, but when I enter the Windows USB setup, I still can't see anything of either drive. Does anyone have any advice as to what I'm doing wrong?

I just received the Cockpit-Simulator 737 MCP and EFIS (https://www.cockpit-simulator.com/). While I have not had time for a formal flight yet, I am very pleased and they appear very nice. The buttons have a great feel, the feel solid, and are well featured. The autothrottle toggles off when disconnected from teh throttles, the center button on the EFIS is locked out for non-applicable modes, etc. The backlighting is great! Just thought I'd share and perhaps I can share more feedback after hopefully getting a chance for a flight or two this weekend.

I believe FSDreamTeam has stated a remake of PHNL for MSFS is planned and/or in the works, but I got the impression it was a fairly distant future.

Another negative for the Marketplace are limitations placed on developers. The items can not display any weapons and they must run everything "in the sim". So some developers, like for the Maddog X, will likely never be seen in the marketplace since they are running a decent amount outside the sim. And others like India Foxtrot Echo have to modify their models to either not show weapons for the marketplace version (done for the F-35) or not sell certain addons in the marketplace (add-on carriers from them). With that said, and I know this is an unpopular opinion, I like to buy through the marketplace. I have PTSD from FSX and P3D reinstalls with hundreds of add-ons. The time spent searching for serial numbers, manually pasting files, etc, was horrible. So I currently limit my purchases to stuff available through the Marketplace, Orbx, or Contrail barring a few critical exceptions (at the moment, just 3...PMDG 737, Maddog X, and Fenix A320). This makes a pretty simple reinstall. Setup 3 programs, then let them download it all.

Can anyone elaborate on what ProSim has that PMDG doesn't have? I think they have some ACARS and CPDLC functionality, although perhaps we will see that from PMDG GFO comes out. And a bit more accurate VNAV/LNAV performance? Engines numbers may match real life a little better? Those are the things I've heard lurking around home cockpit threads (never quite building one myself). Those things alone wouldn't sway me to buy in addition to PMDG. Perhaps there's more. And if I ever really did buy a home cockpit, I'd be there. But perhaps I'm missing something.

I am flying using live weather and have noticed at PAJN there is always snow regardless of the METAR. I found a couple posts about this, as well as at other airports, but no resolution. The most recent of these were from Dec. 2021 though. Am I missing anything anywhere? I'd like to continue to use live weather for variety, but the constant snow kills the reaslism.

While I hope so, I highly doubt it. Virtual Avionics has basically dropped out of communication for about the last 3 years. I think our VA stuff is basically frozen in time now Spad.next works as a decent replacement for their software, but doesn’t fully address the EFIS, and at the moment the displays and input are a bit laggy on large adjustments on the MCP

I would argue the extra memory on the 3090 can be worth it if you use 4K. If you’re not in 4K, there is probably very little to no benefit of the 3090 over a 3080 Ti.

My desk is fairly full already, so I've been looking for a simple way to add a steering tiller. I don't have a true to scale home cockpit, so have just been looking for a simple knob to use. I've found a number of volume controllers for PC, some of which look appealing in foot print such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/LITROK-Controller-Computer-Multimedia-Adjuster/dp/B07GR78PCK/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb%2Bvolume%2Bcontrol&qid=1652547013&sprefix=usb%2Bvolume%2Bcont%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-4&th=1 The problem is that these are going to come preset with firmware to manage Windows volume, where as we need it to show up as an HID to assign it in MSFS. Does anyone know of anything similar to this that would work? Or any other solutions?

Something seems to have worked!...although with these bugs, they can be elusive and pop back up unexpectedly. Unfortunately, I have to say I was a bad boy and did not change one thing at a time to know for sure what was the cause. However, I was able to complete a full flight in the Maddog X without any problems. Some combination of the following: 1. Changed the PSU. On an interesting note, these EVGA PSU's have an "eco mode" where they will not run the fan if it's cool enough. I wasn't really aware of this until the new PSU was in place. On paper it shouldn't cause an issue, but there are reports of people solving random restarts by turning the switch off. The old PSU was "on", leaving the new one off. 2. New RAM. I had some new low profile RAM available, but not yet installed. I've been wanting to fit a 280 mm radiator in my case instead of 240 mm, but this needs low profile RAM sticks. I also put them in new slots (A1/A2 vs B1/B2). 3. Removed some LED light strips from my case. It seemed fun at the time, but I've been less than impressed and decided to get rid of them. 4. Unplugged my Reverb G2 head set USB. There were a few reports on the MSFS forums of people seemingly having restart issues when using MSFS on a screen, but still having the head set plugged in. 5. New flight/scenery. This really shouldn't cause anything more than a lockup or CTD, but moved from KSAN-KLAS to KSTL-KORD. Ideally it would have been best to do one at a time, but at 20-30 minutes to load a flight, setup at the gate, and take to "line up and wait", it would have taken me 2 weeks to test all these variables. I will not claim to be an expert here, but I have XMP set to disabled and my CPU reports 3.2 GHz at no/light load, and doesn't top 5.2 GHz on any core. This matches the advertised specs from Intel, so it seemed fair to think there wasn't an overclock. And my PNY 3090 is basically an FE edition and has not overclock. I've been eyeing a Asus ROG 3090 for the OC, but also it probably won't make much difference (I do at least use 4K, which is becomes GPU limited).

Under stress testing through OCCT or MSI Kombuster, the chip tops out about 78C and the memory junction 86-88C. In games, I’ve seen 6-8C higher for both, but not for very long. I know these temps shouldn’t be causing a reset. The card itself is older than system. I got it fairly early after they came out before the scalpers shot the prices sky high, so maybe around 2 years old. I don’t recall it running at those temps early, but once a system is stable, I don’t watch temps a lot.

Unfortunately adding the second power cable to the graphics card did not resolve the issue. I had more or less the same experience, with the computer rebooting right at Vr/liftoff. This time the computer actually had to reboot a few times. It would get to the Windows login screen, but reboot a couple times before I could get in to Windows. During one of these, the computer seemed to POST, but the screen remained black for a while. My PSU was supposed to be here from Amazon today, but is delayed. I'm about 20 minutes in to an OCCT stress test for the CPU. Temps seemed to have plateaued at 70-75C and the coolant temp just under 40C. I still have this lingering concern over the video card. Nothing hard, but lingering. It definitely runs hot. And if I'd leave my system on for a couple days, would start to get some graphic artifacts.

I have XMP disabled. I haven't been through the whole thread, but what I can see this wouldn't apply if I have XMP disabled.

Maybe if I'm lucky, that will fix my problem.

I was in fact using a single cable with 2 connectors. I am not on 2 cables, but haven't had a chance to really test it yet. I don't know that this means anything, but unplugging the PSU, it would typically take 10ish seconds on the BIOS screen. This time it was to the Windows log in in 5-10 seconds total. Most likely meaningless, but when troubleshooting, one tends to question any sign.

After some more troubleshooting: 1. XMP was already disabled. 2. My BIOS does have a memory tester and has not found any issues with memory. 3. It was only a 10 minute run (needed to use my computer and had to interrupt), but no errors returned in 3 rounds of Memtest64 when repeated 4. My gut says the problem is getting worse. I'm only going on 5-6 times right now, so this isn't a very well established trend yet. But for instance I tried another flight and it crashed within about 5 minutes at the gate. 5. I dropped my memory speed from 4800 MHz to 4400 MHz. I've only been up testing once since then, but it crashed rather quick once in the sim (5ish minutes at the gate). I have a new power supply on the way, as I don't have any spares to test. While it seems like I have a good, adequate, and new power supply that shouldn't be failing yet, I think this is the most suspicious. I have not seen any voltage abnormalities in any monitoring tool, but I know this isn't very reliable. I did have my graphics card vertically mounted for a period, and it was sensitive. It would fail to boot about 1 in 5-6 attempts. I moved it back to a straight in PCI mount and haven't had issues since, but makes me wonder if the graphics card is a little borderline. Under stress such as MSI Kombuster, it will run about 77-80C on the GPU, and 90C or just a little over on the memory. Seems a bit hot to me, but that's been the status quo for as long as I can remember watching it (4-5 months since I rebuilt this PC). I did disable the automatic restart as suggested above (seems like a great idea), unfortunately no error messages show. This strikes me again more as PSU, as in the past when I've had graphics card or memory issues, I'd get a BSOD rather than immediate restart. I have not found in BIOS yet where to simple set the RAM voltage. There's a lot of settings, ratios, auto voltage, etc. So I have some learning to do about those settings.

The RAM is seeming a likely culprit. I started Memtest64 and walked away to let it do its thing. I came back to my login screen suggesting the computer restarted. I wasn't around to see any errors, but it would seem pretty convincing. So, I am not much of a RAM expert. Is Memtest64 testing the physical RAM? Or is it possible some software or BIOS setting?...on that note, my BIOS are up-to-date. Any suggestions how to troubleshoot the RAM settings?

I have not used MSFS in a while (2-3 months). The release of the PMDG NG3 and the Maddog had me dust this back off. I updated MSFS and all the add-ons. The only items in my community folder are the Maddog, FBW A320, and WT CJ4. Since returning, MSFS is causing my computer to restart suddenly, as if the power went out (but it hasn't). There's no error message. No warning. Performance seems very smooth all the way up to the abrupt end. It has happened twice with the Maddog, once on the ramp and once just after takeoff. And I think it happened with the PMDG NG, but I had stepped away while it was compiling WASM for the first flight and came back to my login screen. Thinking of what I assume to be the common first responses: Power Supply: I have a brand new (3-4 months) 1000W power supply. I have had no issues anywhere else including DCS World in VR, and a handful of racing sims that stress the system pretty hard. I understand this doesn't absolutely mean a new problem hasn't just developed, but it doesn't seem terribly suspicious at the moment. Overheating: I don't have a temp monitor up in the sim, but the fans are relatively quiet when this happens. Once Windows is back up (20-30 seconds), the graphics card temp is about 40C, and the coolant temp on my H150i cooler is 33-34C. They've had a few seconds to cool, but I'm not getting any hints this is an issue. Overclocking: I don't have any overclocks Drivers: This is one I haven't been able to fully test yet. I was running on older drivers (maybe even 4xx.xx). I've updated with a clean install to the latest Nvidia game ready drivers, but haven't had a chance to test yet. Does anyone have any suggestions for further troubleshooting or consideration? I appreciate any thoughts or advice. My system: i9-12900k, Asus Z690-E motherboard, G.skill 32 gb DDR5 RAM, PNY RTX 3090, eVGA 1000W PS, NVME drives x 3, 1 2.5" SSD, Corsair H150i liquid cooler, Windows 10 Professional

I am not a very good network guy. My setup in brief...our house is covered by 2 different routers, as the signal from one starts to fade at the other end of the house. One is a Comcast router where the cable comes in to our house in the basement, and the other is hardwire connected Lynksys router on nearly the other side of the house on the main floor. My flight sim room is in the basement, but on the opposite end of the router down there. This is about 40 feet away through 2 walls. It gives a weak 2 of 3 bars of signal (i.e., sometimes is just one). The router on the main floor is about 15 feet away, but through a floor and a wall. This has a steady 3 of 3 bars of signal. If I connect to the basement router with weaker signal, I can usually download at 45-55 Mb/s. The problem with this router is the signal will drop at times. If I connect to the upstairs router I can download at 1-2 Mb/s. I just built a new PC, and while setting this up, I did have PC on our main floor...so about 25 feet away, through a cabinet only. This would download at 120-130 Mb/s. I am running Wifi through an Asus Z690-E MB with connected antenna. So I'm confused. It would seem signal strength shouldn't be an issue since the slower modem reports a stronger signal in Windows. I would like to use this as the more reliable connection (it doesn't drop due to signal), but it is very slow. Both are dual band 2.4/5GHz. They're both set to "combined" bands so they show up as only one newtwork each. Any suggestions to getting this to work better? Because of the differences in location, I would suspect signal strength. But Windows doesn't report any strength issues. So I feel at a loss.

I'm upgrading my computer and got a new case to put it all in (Corsair 4000D). This is my first case that supports the possibility of a vertical GPU. I like this for aesthetics, cooling, and to support the weight of the graphics card. I have a RTX 3090 on an Asus Z690-E motherboard. My first go with a Corsair 300 mm riser PCIE 3.0 x16 riser (they almost all seem to be PCIE 3.0 x16), the computer would not boot with a motherboard error code for the GPU. I plugged the GPU straight in to the motherboard and it booted fine. So on to the thoughts and questions: 1. This motherboard has 3 PCIE x16 4.0 slots...a gen 3, gen 4, and gen 5. The gen 5 is the closest to the CPU and the one I used. Should I be using any slot in particular? 2. I've seen a recommendation to set PCIE to gen 3 in bios. This decreases the bandwidth. The few sites I found that gave any numbers, RTX 3090 performance is marginally affected, but very mildly. However, I question this, as the cables are almost all universally PCIE 3.0 x16 with statements that even the RTX 30 series do not saturate the PCIE 3.0 bandwidth. I have a USB expansion card (PCIE x1) and 3 m.2 NVME drives. Would changing the PCI to gen 3 affect these transfer rates as well? Does anyone have any comments on getting the riser to work, and/or any performance issues with any particular solutions (such as point 2)?

The Thrustmaster Warthog is by far the best "mass produced" stick and throttle. I've seen it often described as a "high end entry range" product, but would describe it personally more as a mid-range product (not entry range, just in the middle between entry and high end). The build is solid and the sensors are all hall effect. Resolution is good, noise minimal, and the switches feel solid. The control inputs are smooth and solid. Another nice thing is there are a fair number of accessories made for the Thrustmaster Warthog. Thrustmaster themselves sell a Viper and Hornet stick. There are a number of 3D printed inserts for detents on the throttle (climb/flex/MCT airbus style, push through afterburner, etc), and custom labeled panels for the throttle in case the 1:1 A-10C isn't what you're looking for. Most of the panels are on Etsy. If you're looking at something in a similar range to Fulcrum yokes (from reputation, I don't own one) in HOTAS systems, that would be Virpil and/or Winwing. I think Virpil is better, but they've gone the "generic" aircraft route, rather than aircraft specific. I am still using the Warthog stick for the DCS F/A-18C (with the Hornet grip add-on) and it performs well. I can't say I really notice any shortcoming, although for a 190 euro base I might upgrade to the Virpil sometime. I *just* upgraded to a Winwing Hornet throttle and panels. The throttle feels like a huge upgrade, but I think that is primarily because it has a full 12" travel rather than about 3.5". I had no idea how much it would smooth out my flying "in the groove".