hello

 

I was taxing to the runway and the plane started turning to the left. im using CH products pro pedals and i did a COLD AND DARK. sometimes it turn and sometimes it doesn't. can someone please help.

 

Regards Anthony

Could we have a better description of how you operate the aircraft on the ground (e.g., how you use the brakes, throttles, and/or your controller to turn) or screen shots of your cockpit or your turning issue?

i did a cold and dark. my auto brakes were on RTO. i have a CH yoke and i kept the throttle in 1 position i didnt move it. the engine start I put both switches to GRD then change switch in the middle of the ignition to right waited until the N2 went to 21 then turned on the engine i did the same for the left engine.

I think I know what's going on. At least on the surface, this sounds like the classic CH Pedals "drift." I used to have this happen all the time when I first got my CH pedals many years ago. Finally after putting up with random left drift for a long time, I took the pedals apart (VERY carefully) and made sure all the connections were tight. I closed it back up, and voila, it hasn't been a problem since. If you do a Google search of "CH Pedals Drifting Left" you may find lots of useful info.

 

Bottom line, I think it's a defect in manufacturing that CH has never addressed.

 

EDIT: Oh yeah, and to be sure this is the issue, open up your controller calibration in Windows (the one that shows the position of the pedal) and just let them sit for a while. If this is the cause, you will see the controller indicator moving to the left with no intevention by you. Also, sometimes when you move the pedal full left and right, you will see the deflection "stick" on it's way back to centter. This is another indication of hardware malfunction.

thanks adamant for the help. do you think i should pull it apart.

thanks adamant for the help. do you think i should pull it apart.

You should first confirm that it is a hardware issue by following his instructions. You could also check the EICAS STAT page to see if the actual flight controls are moving without your inputs.

ok thanks

Stupid question do you have to calibrate them not sure how fsiupc plays along with them also

Make SURE the hardware is the issue before you take them apart. I recall them being a bit delicate in that if the main springs let go due to rough handling when pulling apart, bits can go flying about. I highly recommend doing this in a "sterile" area in that there isn't any other junk or hardware lying around your work area. Also, I found it helpful to set the pedal upside down between my legs so that the body of the pedal case is resing on my legs and no pressure is being put on the pedals themselves. If you put either left/right or tow brake pressure on the pedal when you open them, stuff mill mose likely go flying around your workspace. You can also find a box that fits between the pedals to support the case off your work area. You want as little tension on the springs as posisble when taking them apart. And, in case you do take them apart, here's a good link that shows what they look like inside:

 

http://avcom.co.za/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=74745

 

Once you get them open, there are three little metal clips on the rudder axis pot (big one in the center) on that hold the wires; they are NOT soldered. I noticed these clips seemed a bit loose so I grabbed a pair of needle-nose pliers and really clamped down on them to make them tight. I was very pessimistic this would help, but lo and behold, I put the pedals back together and they worked flawlessly and have done so ever since (about 3+ years).

I had the same problem earlier this year. I understand the frustration because I was ready to chuck the whole flight simulator thing.

 

I forget exactly what I did. I know I rebooted the computer, and I recalibrated the yoke and pedals. I think it was some sort of software glitch. I repaired my installation of Flight Simulator, and w hen that didn't work, I did a clean instal. Anyway, the problem got fixed, eventually. In short, I fiddled around with this a lot, until I got it working OK. Unfortunately, I don't remember what did the trick.

 

The problem arose again a few weeks ago, and I just recalibrated everything, which seemed to fix it.

 

One thing I have noticed is the fight yoke, on screen, will suddenly and spontaneously turn all the way to the left. I just manually straighten in back.

 

The only reason I am making a somewhat unhelpful post is to urge caution when it comes to taking things apart. For me, it seems like the last step, after every thing else fails.

I had the same problem earlier this year. I understand the frustration because I was ready to chuck the whole flight simulator thing.

 

I forget exactly what I did. I know I rebooted the computer, and I recalibrated the yoke and pedals. I think it was some sort of software glitch. I repaired my installation of Flight Simulator, and w hen that didn't work, I did a clean instal. Anyway, the problem got fixed, eventually. In short, I fiddled around with this a lot, until I got it working OK. Unfortunately, I don't remember what did the trick.

 

The problem arose again a few weeks ago, and I just recalibrated everything, which seemed to fix it.

 

The only reason I am making a somewhat unhelpful post is to urge caution when it comes to taking things apart. For me, it seems like the last step, after every thing else fails.

 

And you are absolutely correct. Only after I had exhausted EVERY other software option did I take the pedals apart. So please do everything you can to try and troubleshoot through software before doing anything with the hardware.

To add to the software issue possibility, my Logitech and Saitek controllers require the unplugging and replugging in of the USB connectors each time I restart my computer. If not, they will be slightly calibrated to the right.

Oh yes, the solderless connections. That's intended so the user can replace the pots easily when they get worn, but in practice the connections cause more problems than pots ever did.

 

I had the same problem with the Y axis on my CH yoke. I bought a new one, then a few months later had the same problems with it. I took the old one apart to see what the problem might be and discovered the connections. I wiggled them about a bit and got a good connection on the old yoke... for a while.

 

On the new yoke, I just drop the yoke the last half inch onto the desk whenever I mount it. I haven't had any problems since. Before taking the pedals apart, try a bit of percussive maintenance to see if you can get it to work.

 

Hook

Maybe we're missing something much more simple? Is rudder trim centered?

Once you get them open, there are three little metal clips on the rudder axis pot (big one in the center) on that hold the wires; they are NOT soldered. I noticed these clips seemed a bit loose so I grabbed a pair of needle-nose pliers and really clamped down on them to make them tight. I was very pessimistic this would help, but lo and behold, I put the pedals back together and they worked flawlessly and have done so ever since (about 3+ years).

 

I had issues with both my CH Pro Pedals and CH yoke with control spikes, uncommanded control surface deflections, "twitchy" brakes and difficult steering while taxiing.

 

I disassembled both units, and soldered every push-on terminal on every potentiometer. Made a world of difference! Silky smooth movement in all axes afterward, and it has remained that way for two years.

 

Would not suggest doing this unless you are somewhat mechanically inclined. and have experience soldering small parts with a low wattage iron. Consulting a text or video tutorial on the dis and re assembly of CH yokes and pedals is also strongly suggested before trying to open the units...