Really, you think its the RAM. I have heard on forums that on the Sandy-Bridge platforms it makes not difference. I would like a few opinions on this. You may have noticed I have the Z68 and I am going to strap an SSD onto that for Intel SRT. Here are the things on my wishlist: 24" monitor60GB SSDMaybe some new RAM if Steve is right.

Andrew, sorry, but I've only picked up now that your specs are in your signature. I can tell you right now where your problem is mate... It's your RAM! Get rid of it... It's only running at 1333 and with you overclocking as much as you are, it WILL cause APPCRASH, etc.You really have 2 options if you want Windows to be stable. Either lower your overclocking, as your RAM is taking a good pounding, or get better memory, something like DDR3-1800 or 2000 with a CAS of around 7.

Can't I overclock the RAM.

I don't exactly understand, what is BEX? If you mean your sim looks weird on shutdown - get rid of ENB.

I have rebuilt the .cfg, ran the tweaking tool and I have changed perfbucket to 4, got rid of all the info messages like brakes and put in poolsize=20000000. BEX is just an annoying crash.

I have rebuilt the .cfg, ran the tweaking tool and I have changed perfbucket to 4, got rid of all the info messages like brakes and put in poolsize=20000000. BEX is just an annoying crash.

Everywhere I go it doesn't seem to say the RAM should affect the OC on the 1155 system.I got the APPCRASH and the BEX at the same time, this is ridiculous!Thing is FSX is the only thing that is crashing. Crysis and Battlefield run maxed out. I only put them on the system to see how well they run,

I doubt the RAM is causing the APPCRASH. Lets look elsewhere, how about some of my tweaks, the overclock, REX.

There is absolutely no chance that the RAM is the problem. Zero. 1333 is perfectly fine for all levels of overclocking on a sandy bridge setup.

Have you checked your voltages? ~1.37 - ~1.38v is where you should look to be with your setup. Consult some online guides as my numbers may be off, and overvolting your board will brick it. Also, take a look at this: http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/963798-msi-p67a-gd55-review-oc-guide.html It's for my motherboard, but the overclocking explanation is quite clear, and you can learn a lot.

There is absolutely no chance that the RAM is the problem. Zero. 1333 is perfectly fine for all levels of overclocking on a sandy bridge setup.

Thats exactly what i though.

I hope a new day will mean the PC is in a good mood.

Andrew, sorry, but I've only picked up now that your specs are in your signature. I can tell you right now where your problem is mate... It's your RAM! Get rid of it... It's only running at 1333 and with you overclocking as much as you are, it WILL cause APPCRASH, etc.You really have 2 options if you want Windows to be stable. Either lower your overclocking, as your RAM is taking a good pounding, or get better memory, something like DDR3-1800 or 2000 with a CAS of around 7.Trust me on this. If you have some cash, go the better memory route, otherwise your system looks spot on. You could also maybe do with either a WD VRaptor of a WD Black series HDD. The Black series has double the cache, which makes a difference. Another new thing that I'm trying is when I formatted my HDD's recently, I left my OS drive as default block size, but I've made my FSX drive, which is a totally seperate WD 1TB Black, a 64K block size. This means that file transfer theoretically should be slightly quicker, but I've only just done this so haven't tested it properly yet.

Thanks for trying but unfortunately it was not the fix.

BEX=Branch ExceptionAPPCRASH=Application crash You can do a Google search on it, but to share my experience, NOTHING WORKS EXCEPT REINSTALLING AND CHANGING THE DIRECTORY FROM WHATEVER YOU HAD IT LAST! I deleted this, moved that, safe booted, took control of different .dlls,disabling OS safeguards,contacting help on the MS Live site, changing page files, monitoring the event log and nothing worked except a clean reinstall in a new directory on the HD.If you have a fix for this (other than reinstall) I'd love to hear! Sorry, but best of luck!

I'm surprised that only one person has asked for your voltage. For getting a high overclock, the voltage is *absolutely* critical, it is the difference between running fine and crashing. It would certainly explain why 4.5GHz seems fine but 4.6GHz crashes. Are you using automatic voltage setting on your motherboard, because you shouldn't be (generally does a bad job of setting voltages compared to doing it manually). There is a nonlinear relationship between voltage and max stable OC- as you keep increasing your clock speed, the added voltage required dramatically increases.

BEX=Branch ExceptionAPPCRASH=Application crash You can do a Google search on it, but to share my experience, NOTHING WORKS EXCEPT REINSTALLING AND CHANGING THE DIRECTORY FROM WHATEVER YOU HAD IT LAST!I deleted this, moved that, safe booted, took control of different .dlls,disabling OS safeguards,contacting help on the MS Live site, changing page files, monitoring the event log and nothing worked except a clean reinstall in a new directory on the HD.If you have a fix for this (other than reinstall) I'd love to hear! Sorry, but best of luck!

I have already done one full reinstall but to the same directory which was C:\Microsoft Flight Simulator X

I'm surprised that only one person has asked for your voltage. For getting a high overclock, the voltage is *absolutely* critical, it is the difference between running fine and crashing. It would certainly explain why 4.5GHz seems fine but 4.6GHz crashes. Are you using automatic voltage setting on your motherboard, because you shouldn't be (generally does a bad job of setting voltages compared to doing it manually). There is a nonlinear relationship between voltage and max stable OC- as you keep increasing your clock speed, the added voltage required dramatically increases.

Nah I have it manually set at 1.32V. When it is at auto I can't get to the BIOs screen at all. So is that what you are all thinking, maybe go to 1.35V. Because re-installing is not an option when I have already tried it. Edit: Hey papagoose, what is your 2500k at voltage wise. I should add that I am getting some windows crashes so I am thinking that should mean that the CPU needs more voltage. It also seemed to run better at 4.3GHz and 1.3V.

Edited August 7, 201114 yr by VirginAus737

Nah I have it manually set at 1.32V. When it is at auto I can't get to the BIOs screen at all. So is that what you are all thinking, maybe go to 1.35V. Because re-installing is not an option when I have already tried it. Edit: Hey papagoose, what is your 2500k at voltage wise. I should add that I am getting some windows crashes so I am thinking that should mean that the CPU needs more voltage. It also seemed to run better at 4.3GHz and 1.3V.

1.32V is pretty low, you have plenty of room to increase it to gain stability (assuming your temperatures are OK). 1.35V is pretty standard. There are a couple of interesting points to note - With speedstep enabled, the processor will undervolt as well as underclock when idle- Without LLC enabled, you will see a voltage *drop* when you put the processor under load. LLC boosts the voltage when the processor is loaded- High voltages are really only a problem with high current (i.e. under high load). Idle voltage is somewhat less relevant So with that in mind, I suggest using CPU-Z to check your voltages- this will be more precise than just going by the BIOS setting. I have disabled LLC so that I get a voltage drop in high load. From memory, I have about 1.4V set in the BIOS. This is about the upper limit for 24/7 overlocks of a 2500k. However, take note of the following voltages I see with CPU-Z - Idle: 1.008V (overall power draw 247W at the wall- there are other things plugged in too! Lets call this +0W on the CPU)- Intel Burn Test (4 threads): 1.35-1.360V (396W = +149W)- Intel Burn Test (1 thread): 1.392V (320W = +73W) As you can see, when the processor gets to its full 4.8GHz clock speed with LOW load (1 thread), the voltage is close to the maximum of 1.4V. But under full load, the associated voltage drop brings it back down to 1.35V. Is the 1.4V max a problem? I'm comfortable with it, because a ) This only occurs with a relatively low wattage (less than the stock 95W rating, and less than half of the max power draw in my system)b ) This only applies when I am running a single threaded program that uses 100% CPU. Most of the programs I use are multithreaded, and the idle voltages are very lowc ) High voltages are also worst at high temperatures. I never get about 70C with my cooling setup, something like 63C is more usual at 100% for me anyway Hope this helps! TL;DR: 1.32V is low, push it up to 1.35V or even 1.38V if your H60 has temps under control

My temps at 100% load are around 60 degrees, sounds fine. Should be fine. In CPU-Z it say sthat the Core VID is at 1.336 Volts, its that the one I am looking for. It matches the setting in the BIOS so I presume so. Multiplyer is at x45 hence 4513.1MHz and the Bus Speed is at 100.3MHz. So it all sounds normal except for the voltage.

I'm sure it's all fine except for the voltages. How have you been testing the stability of your OC? 1.35V should be enough for 4.5GHz, but with an H60 you should be able to take it even further if you wanted