Saitek & CH Products yokes: still using potentiometers ?

[Ben Cap 89]

Oh yes, HE sensors make a huge difference. It's extremely precise. Flying NGX with the HGS, I can do all those miniature corrections you would need when flying approach. It's great!

 

 

How is the resolution compared to the Saitek version?

[Richbro 3]

Update and setting the record straight.

Replacement Saitek Pro Yoke & Throttle will be delivered tomorrow. If I'd waited an hour at Signet International, the company dealing with the returned unit, I could have bought the new one back with me.

So, resolved ( I hope).

If the above sounds like a tweet I apologize.

 

Richard.

[Bob Church 0]

Hi Ben,

 

Just as a point of interest, neither the HE nor the Pot have anything to do with the ultimate resolution. That's determined solely by the resolution of the A/D converter that digitizes the value, the resolution of either of the sensor types is "infinite" for all intents and purposes.

 

Best regards,

 

- Bob

 

The StickWorks

http://www.stickworks.com

[vanka472 0]

I know this is a little weird but if we took apart the saitek yoke (lets say) and we put hall sensors in there.... is that even possaible? I know we can but hall sensors from Leo Bodnar and maybe we could make the saitek yoke worth it without having to spend upwards of $500+. Just an idea! Let me know if this is just a unresonable idea or its in a direction that we could go! Thanks guys and can't wait to get around AVSIM.

 

Cheers,

Vanka

[Kosta 122]

Vanka,

The point is that the quality of the sensors would by far overcome to quality and precision of the yoke. In other words, you could never use their potential with the Saitek yoke, due to relatively high unprecision of the axes.

[vanka472 0]

Ahhh I see. Well lets say one was to build there own yoke system (I started a thread about it; check it out) would it be thoughtful to put it in there then?

 

Cheers,

Vanka

[Kosta 122]

Ahhh I see. Well lets say one was to build there own yoke system (I started a thread about it; check it out) would it be thoughtful to put it in there then?

 

Cheers,

Vanka

 

Sure, if you are building your own yoke, own system and all, a precision is high, something like pfc, then sure.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ppo 67]

FYI. It is possible to open the pots and clean them with a proper alcohol (for electronic contacts).

I just did with my CH pro pedals.

After many years of heavy and regular uses, I began to loose linearity on the left brake pedal. I tried to clean the pot the old way: spray the pot and move the shaft up and down. It didn't work.

So, I ordered extra pots from CH. (about $10 each). While my pots were waiting to be cleared by Customs I had an idea: open up the pots and see the inside.

They are easy to open, there is 2 tabs on each side that you need to pry up a bit and extract the shaft and the pot itself. The pot was dirty like hell: carbon deposits. But I noticed the actual circular pot wasn't worn out in any way. After cleaning (cleaning pad and alcohol) they "looked" like new. So I tried them and tested them, initially they still inhibited problems in linearity but I finally figured out that they were not re-installed correctly. On the shaft there is a plastic wheel with indents (about 180 deg) activated by the pedal up and down action, this plastic wheel has a flat side that will coincide with the flat side of the shaft; so it shouldn't be a problem to re-install right? Negative. Because the pot has a lot of turns to it, it is possible to install the shaft at the "low end" of the pot. And that low end is where I had them installed. When I realized this, I reinstalled at the high end of the pot and have smooth action from all axis of the pedal. Like new. And I have spare pots!

Pierre

[ppo 67]

CHPRO Pedals Part II

This has been my lucky week. Previously I solved my problems with the dirty pots and secondly here's what I found and that you might find interesting.

 

The Pedals will not wake up from "Sleep" mode. This has been well advertised on the net with a number of possible solutions:

 

1. keep the USB port from "sleeping" by going through all usb controllers available and unchecking "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power". Did that. No joy.

 

2. find the registry setting for the pedals and create a new "Dword" text (can't remember offhand). That solution was for Windows XP and in Win 7 x64 the key is not available. No joy there too.

 

3. then I found someone who talked about using "devcon.exe" utility provided by MS: it is command-line utility equivalent to "Device Manager".

That sounded interesting:

a. you first need to find the hardware id of the pedals. That is available from the device manager, details, property then select "Hardware ID" in the droplist.

b. you need to obtain the "Devcon.exe" utility on the web. There is a catch here: you need to get the 64bit version for this to work. The 32 bit will not function at all.

c. open up the CMD prompt, type in "devcon restart "@USB\VID etc....." return. You should get the sound of a USB device being connected or restarted. My hardware id is: USB\VID_068E&PID_00F2\7&2CC290EC&0&1 as an example. You may have to work a little bit with "Devcon" before getting the proper HW ID for the ProPedals. It took me a while. Of course, devcon /help will list all the options available.

d. when your cmd prompt is working, make a shortcut on your desktop and voila: the pedals will always be available after "Sleep".

e. there is another option without manual intervention with the help of a bit of vbs script and task scheduler which will wake up the pedals every time after waking up from "sleep" mode. If you need the instructions, let me know.

 

There you go, CHPro pedals will wake up from sleep mode on Win7 x64.

 

Hopefully, this will be useful to someone.

 

Pierre

[MdMax 233]

Nothing changed, and it's even getting worse... Now they not only "forget" to provide technical specifications about what's inside a joystick. Now they even avoid showing the case of their joystick:

 

The more marketing, the more crap inside...