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Found 21 results

  1. Please sticky if possible. I created a video that shows step by step how to fix the Saitek Pro Flight Yoke dead zone issue. This is a hardware fix using the Leo Bodnar BU0836A joystick board. Please view, like, share. You will love your Saitek again. Enjoy!
  2. This is not a full fledged how-to, but I did want to relay my success with this mod to my Saitek Pro Yoke. Basically, I mounted the yoke into a cabinet on a platform running on ball-bearing drawer rails. I imagine this has already been done, but I haven't seen it. It has been a great upgrade to get smooth elevator action with no sticky points and no detents in the elevator. The idea here is to have the whole base move rather than the yoke rod, and fix a connection from the elevator pot to the cabinet. This makes the elevator control run on ball bearings of the drawer glides. I removed the elevator springs from the original yoke and pulled the yoke all the way back. To make it "fixed" in this position, I blocked it off with a piece of scrap wood attached to the plastic housing with screws. I put some packing tape on the front to keep it slippery against the plastic end cap of the yoke rod. I also have some blue tape there to give the wires a bit of abrasion resistance but it's a temporary solution. I made a base from 1/4" plywood, added 1x2 rails, attached ball-bearing drawer slides, and built a small particle board cabinet to support it all. Make a template and drill holes out for the screws that hold the original Saitek housing together, then you can screw down one half of the housing to the base, and access the screws to close it back up. To control the elevator potentiometer, I drilled a small hole in the armature and fitted it with a piece of push-rod used for RC aircraft. A hole is then drilled out the back of the original Saitek housing and attach the other end using an L-bracket and a wingnut. You'll need to make sure you have physical stops to keep the base from moving back and forth beyond the control range, else you'll put stress on the push rod and probably break the armature connected to the potentiometer. The range of travel of the Saitek yoke is about 3.5". There is about 3/4 to 7/8 of an inch between the bottom of the platform and the bottom of the cabinet sides, so you can fit springs or a bungee there for centering. I did not yet make a front panel, so there is only a plywood strip acting as a stop from the front. I will cover the front with two strips of 1/4" plywood and drill a 2" hole for the yoke rod using a forstner bit. Add some rubber feet to the base, and you can use some of that kitchen drawer lining as bumper material to soften the contact with the range stops. Of course you'll probably sand, maybe router the edges and paint it too... The weight depends on what you build the cabinet with. 5/8" particle board is pretty heavy but I may end up securing it with a clamp or screws system. This also depends on how stiff the springs or bungee centering system you come up with. If you're interested in getting a ball-bearing smooth elevator control, you might give this a try. I used 14" drawer rails from the big orange home store. The tolerances are decent in that there is no up-down play so when you're turning the yoke, there is no discernible bumping, etc. The original Saitek design also has the flaw of binding when you both turning and pulling/pushing the yoke..the drawer rails have bearings top and bottom so when you're turning, you're still rolling smooth. If you give it a try, let me know - I'm sure there are improvements to be made. It has made a world of difference for me especially on climb out and landing. Clear skies, Robert KPDX
  3. This looks like a great deal!! 50% off Iris Dynamics DragonflyVR Flight Yoke and Handle (October 24th through November 2, 2016) - https://vs3.irisdynamics.com/product/idl-20004-dragonflyvr-flight-yoke/ Best regards, Jim
  4. Just wondering.....my co-pilot yoke just sits there and bounces around. Right now it sitting in a full left turn or pointing to 9 o'clock position. I can move my yoke and then center it and yoke returns to 9 o'clock. Is this a sound driver issues.. Any ideas, Thanks, Bob M.
  5. This problem has really been bothering me for a long time. I have tried basically everything in the book to solve it. When I switch tasks in flight, say to check vpilot or go to chrome, my controller resets and causes fsx not to read it anymore. I tried porting it through FSUIPC and the same problem occured. I've gone through device manager(making sure it doesn't cut off for power saving), and did the same thing in control panel. I have run fsx in compatability mode, still no luck. When I check fsuipc anything to do with the yoke disappears. I've updated the drivers on saitek, and the problem is still there. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with vas because whenever I go into a high end scenery area or I use a heavy payware aircraft it tends to happen more often. It's literally making it impossible to fly because I can't seem to go through a flight without this problem occuring. Sometimes I don't even need to do a task switch to get this to trigger, the yoke itself will just blip on and off and fsx will stop reading the yoke. This also happens with almost all my other joysticks as well. The only way I know about fixing it is by switching between fullscreen and windowed mode a ton of times, but that only works to a point. I am completely at a loss of what to do next. I've heard its a common problem with windows 8, but I still have no idea how to solve it.
  6. Hello! I need a controller for FSX and stuff to fly the things I always and usually only fly (Boeings and Cessnas)... Please tell me what I should get for the controller. As for addons, I already know I want --- FTX ORBX Global REX 4 texture Direct Active Sky Next Thats 179 dollars right there....If I get the X55 Hotas, I wont have a problem with getting that and those 3 addons, Or, I can get Saitek pro flight yoke + throttle (the one it comes with) Saitek Pro flight Rudder Pedals FTX REX 4 ASN That will cost around 450$ I have 290, But in like One month I will have ATLEAST 390...EITHER way I have to wait til the end of this month to get anything. So what makes more sense for me? A yoke or a joystick? is the saitek yoke nice, no lag, good quality, feel real? I can just get the Yoke, Rudder, EXTRA throttle to have two and a swtich panel but no addons so FSX wont look good....Should I just do that? So lets count that.... What should i get??? Thanks
  7. When i do quick rudder movement/casting, my game drops from 25-35 fps to 8-12. ONLY when i move my yoke. Here is gif were i move my rudders compared to when i dont. You can see the fps counter either in the top left corner (default fsx fps counter). The first part of the gif i dont move the yoke, the last part i move all my rudders at once (it really ######s up everything): https://gyazo.com/1c269b5895aba35e6ac2f09f1ef554e3 Please help ;-;. Best regards: ´Tor Edit: i have tried all the different types of 737s, they all do it Even more edits: Just found out it does the same on the 777, its does not do it on any other aircrafts, nor the JS41. These are my specs: I7 4720HQ GTX 980M 8GB 1600 MHz ram FSX installed on SSD All drivers are up to date, including BIOS and chipset, everything...
  8. This is my first forum post, and after a while of searching I felt like Avsim is the place to ask. Does anyone know where I could aqquire a desk clamp for the Saitek Cessna yoke system? I recently have purchased this yoke used from a guy online who didn't have the clamp. Any help is appreciated.
  9. Hi, After a 2 year break from FSX, 5/6 months ago I decided to get back in again. I purchased FSX:SE, but soon found that my Saitek Cyborg X was well and truly broken (Constant spiking of nearly every axis). I was somewhat unimpressed with how my Saitek product lasted, and as an avid racing fan and owning the Logitech G27 as well as various other Logitech products, and with their reputation for quality I brought the Extreme 3D Pro, to tie me over. Whilst I am incredibly impressed by the Logitech - the only thing I dislike is the little throttle, I feel as though this is not realistic, and I struggle to get a full grasp of what my aircraft is doing. I mainly fly the PMDG NGX and the A2A C172, both of which are amazing aircraft, and they both use a yoke. So I'd like to know what is the best controller I can get ? I am currently learning to be a private pilot, so realism is key, but what is the best? My budget isn't huge, but I'm willing to pay for quality. I see saitek are the front runners, but with my previous experiences I'm not overly confident. I look forward to your help! Kind Regards George Hunt
  10. A video review of the Saitek Pro Flight Cessna yoke, focusing particularly on the differences from the basic Pro Flight yoke.
  11. Anyone set up both a game pad and a yoke in P3D? Currently using a Saitek yoke and would like to set up a Logitech or Xbox game pad too. Saw somewhere that P3D will set default bindings for the game pad that have to be removed. Would appreciate any setup tips. Thanks
  12. I have P3d V3.4, I have been flying with P3d now for about 3 years. I am using the Saitek Pro-Yoke, (2) quadrants and rudder pedals. Up until yesterday I have had no problems with calibrating them or setting their sensitivity. The problem now is any movement forward on the throttles and they jump to 100% and retarding them back to the detent brings them into reverse, Then the right (#2) throttle sticks in reverse thrust. Its 100% or nothing. I've tried to re calibrate them, I've uninstalled and reinstalled the throttles, and drivers. No luck. I can run FSX and they work perfectly. I plugged my old X52pro throttle in and assigned it in P3d and it calibrates and works perfectly. Everything else that i have assigned on the throttle quadrants, flaps, spoilers, prop axis all continue to work fine. I'm frustrated to say the least. I could use any help and or suggestions to get this sorted out. Thank you.
  13. I recently bought a Saitek pedals and yoke (Pro Flight, not Cessna) setup to get back into FSX (it has been quite a while and my old joystick won't Z-axis anymore). I'm noticing that I can't seem to get the yoke to perform evenly for rolls (X-Axis I think). At first, it had a big deadzone (not configured, but in practice) to the left. I had to rotate left about 15 degrees before anything would start happening. Rolling right worked A-OK. So, I did the Saitek registry fix to recalibrate. Now it is improved, but there still seems to be a bit of a center deadzone that isn't defined but is at least close-ish to centered now. There also seems to be a bit of deadzone at either end. I've seen the internal gearing and that all seems to move OK, so I guess I'm asking this: Is this likely a hardware issue with the yoke's sensor (at least for the extreme far side dead zones)? Is it still just configuration trouble? Would it be worth the investment to license FSUIPC to use its calibration facility? I'd like to hold off on that for a while if possible, unless it will fix this (just spent all that other money on hardware this month!). I feel like the issue is kinda making my maneuvers less smooth since I don't know exactly when the flight controls will actually kick in. I searched around, but didn't find this exact issue. If it's already out there, can you please point me in the right direction? Thanks!
  14. I have been following this project since its Kickstarter, and from the looks of things on their twitter page production and shipping will be happening soon. I'm looking forward to getting rid of my Saitek pro in favor of a yoke with more precision. Has anyone had a chance try the IRIS yoke. Based on pics and videos that I have seen so far, I'm leaning towards pre ordering one. If you ordered an HDK kit have you received it and also what is your opinion? Also do anyone know how the force feedback functionality will work with fly by wire aircraft? If you're not familiar with the project you can see their twitter page here. https://twitter.com/IrisDynamics Thanks Jamal
  15. Many people complain about the bothersome detent in the pitch axis of this otherwise good product. There have been a number of "improvements" that others have done to counter this issue, such as removing one of the pitch springs, replacing them with other springs, or even one person who re-engineered the product to behave like the CH yoke with side springs which provide both pitch and roll resistance. Still others have cut the bushings and changed lubricants. After trying some of these suggestions, I still was not happy with the performance of this product. So today I decided to open it up for the 101 time. I thought that there must be some simple solution to this problem. I noticed that there are two plastic "horns" on the middle yoke shaft, and equidistant vertical tabs a few inches forward and back of it. This reminded me of a video of improving the CH yoke by attaching rubber bands to these horns. I decided to give rubber bands a try. Though I am not a fan of using rubber bands to fix issues, in this case the application is a good place to use them. I removed the two springs that control the pitch axis resistance and removed the arms to which they were attached to, saving them in case I wanted to go back to the original configuration. I found two identical rubber bands, rather thick and short, and attached one around the horns and front vertical tab, and the other around the horns and rear vertical tab. Finally I took a much smaller and thinner rubber band and simply strapped it across the two horns to secure the 2 main rubber bands upon strong deflection in the pitch axis. To my surprise, I did not need to do anything to secure the rubber bands about the vertical tabs, as the bottom cover of the yoke already has grooves into which these tabs slide into when you put the yoke back together. Its almost if Saitek designed the yoke with such a solution in mind. After putting it all together, its like a whole new yoke. Now I still have not had much time to test this out extensively, but the clunky mechanical detent is not there, and the yoke does return to center quite precisely, behaving more like the CH yoke. The resistance is uniform throughout the axis. Since I am only studying engineering , there may be improvements to this fix. Specifically, there may be a better way to secure the rubber bands from ever slipping off, though I don't think they will. Of course, more expensive rubber bands may help if these wear out. You may choose stronger/weaker rubber bands to suit your tastes. If you find the roll axis too stiff, you might want to remove the roll spring as well, though I find it to work well. The only drawback I have noticed thus far is that pitch resistance is very slightly higher when the yoke is turned, but this is barely noticeable and is just because the rubber bands must stretch more when you turn the yoke. It may also be possible to do this mod with springs instead of rubber bands, though that may be noisy. I may also make a cut on the plastic bushings, as there is still a tiny amount of stiffness when turning, but so far, I feel much more control in pitch. Please feel free to offer improvements. Tom G. Please note that this will void your warranty and I do not take any responsibility if you mess up your yoke. (Though its very unlikely). You may also have to recalibrate your yoke.
  16. Hello everybody, I spent some time trying to figure out the best way to assign trimming small aircraft (A2A Cessna 172 in this case). This is my setup: - Saitek Pro Flight Yoke and Throttle Quadrant - Saitek Rudder Pedals - P3D v4.1 - FSUIPC 5 registered - all controls and calibrations assigned through it... I tried using the mouse wheel (that's an option in FSUIPC) but that way I couldn't turn knobs like radios, indoor light using the mouse wheel... Then I tried to assign one of the yoke buttons, the one that you operate with left thumb. That kind of works but I feel like it's moving too slow for my needs. For example when I'm on approach in the A2A 172 and set the 1st notch of flaps, the nose goes up ridiculously (am I missing something?) and I have to hold the button for 10 good seconds to trim the plane right. My question is, how do you guys manage your trimming? I know that there is a piece of hardware that does the job, but I don't feel like spending $70 on a plastic wheel. Or is it worth it? For me, it means 10 hours of work in my country. Any tip / advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Tomas.
  17. The yoke movement in the vc of 737-8/9 NGX does not turn a max of 90 degrees. It stops at 45 degrees whereas in 6/700 it turn 90 degrees. Is it possible to copy some files from virtual cockpit of 6/700 to 8/900 vc folder to get 6/700 yoke in 8/900 ???
  18. Hi everybody I wanted to share something I've been working on for the last two years.. enjoy
  19. I have experienced a strange problem with my Saitek pro flight yoke. It worked perfectly after my first upgrade to win 10. no problems at all. A while ago, I noticed, that the green light in the digital clock was off., and the yoke did not work any more. at plugging in the yoke I heard the USB-sound, but the yoke was not recognized. Only the build in USB-hub was recognized. Trying to set it up at my laptop worked perfect. no problems at all. I have resetted my computer to a clean Win 10, but it is still not working. When I am installing the driver, and I come to the point, where I plug in the yoke, the "NEXT" button stays greyed out. Trying to manually install the driver from hardware properties gives only an error message from windows. I noticed, that my laptop is running win 10 initial release build 10240 (winver), but my pc is running win 10 build 1511 build 10586. I have grabbed the win 10 disk, I originally created at my first upgrade to win 10 (Build 10240), and reinstalled win 10, and now it works - for now!, because Microsoft is stuffing build 1511 down my throat. Hey, the new build 1511, build 10586.122, from March 1.st. is up an running, and it seems to work! Anyone have a similar experience? Sadly FSX wont run on Linux! Regards Henrik Birch
  20. Well I'm just about pulling what's left of my hair out. My Saitek yoke and pedals were working ok when I made the mistake of trying to update the drivers (Madcatz) The installer got as far as telling me to plug in the yoke, I did, nothing. The 'NEXT' button just won't enable. I tried uninstalling the current drivers and that made things worse. Windows 10 wouldn't even start. I've managed to get into Windows now but if I plug in the yoke then unplug it Windows hangs. The display on the front of the yoke is now showing 'FrlrLc' which, I'm sure is not right. So now: Can't use the yoke, can't uninstall old drivers fully, can't install new drivers. In Windows device manager I press 'update drivers', it seems to find them but tells me there is a problem and can't install them and points me in the direction of the manufacturer (no help there then). ANY help on assisting me to sort this out would be most appreciated. TIA BR
  21. Hi , everyone . I have a 3 years old Saitek Pro flight yoke . Currently some of the buttons on the yoke (including the timer and Its display) don't work and I realized that some of the wires comming out from the end of the shaft are cut . But some of them remained OK and probably that's why I have the Axis still working . The main issue is that as you can see in the image bellow, those wires are being cut from the base which makes It hard to work on them . Anyone has any ideas about this ? And BTW the black circular shape plastic in the image which is at the end of the shaft (#1) is very hard to remove I don't know if oppening It is the only way to get this fixed . Thanks. =)
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