Bob Church

Hi Jeff, Sorry I didn't see this earlier. You can always reach me at: bob (at) stickworks (dot) com The Hangar is offline while it's being updated so that's about the only way right now. I'll send this to the addy you posted, too. - Bob

Hi onebob, If you go to Win7/64 (Vista64 and I'm guessing Win8/64 are the same), FS will let you access calibration from within the sim. If you calibrate it there, you're just running the standard Windows calibration and the Control Manager won't work correctly. It's feeding data into DirectX below the point where Windows applies it's calibration, so the output ends up doubly-calibrated. So long as the controllers aren't calibrated in Windows, then only the Control Manager calibration has any effect and things work again. Clearing the Windows data isn't too hard. The quickest way is probably with the Logitech WingmanTeam "ClrCalib.exe" utility, it's available for free at: http://www.wingmanteam.com All the controllers are cleared at once, so you need to unplug all of them, clear the data, and then use Windows to calibrate the non-CH devices, but wait until the CM is installed and calibrate the CH stuff from there. Don't calibrate anything that the Control Manager is handling in Windows, the CM won't work properly if Windows calibration is in the way.

Hi Shaun, Registered FSUIPC will do it. Drop by my site (URL in the sig), find the "Downloads" page, and look for a file called CMNote02.zip. It has a PDF file in it that talks about how to set it up, should be some help. Hope the helps! Best regards, - Bob The StickWorks.com http://www.stickworks.com

Hi Jim, >> No, I didn't have CM installed so I installed it and checked the raw data as you suggested. The fluctuating controls shown by the numbers are the rudder, left throttle, left mixture, ailerons, and elevators. All are fluctuating by 1. (89-90, 252-253 ,253-254, & 114-115. So you think this is ok? << Yup, that's fine. Which axis was the 89-90 on? The CH stuff generates raw values of 0..255. If it centers, the value will usually be about half that, ideally 128 but it's doesn't need to be exact. Calibration will sort it out unless it's a long way off. It could be just a throttle axis that's not set at max or min, I'm just curious as to whether we should look at why it's there. If it is a centering axis, (X, Y, etc.) then the trim wheel probably needs to be centered, there's a weak detent at center that's usually close enough, if it gets a long way off, it can create problems. >> As I stated, it doesn't really cause me any problems - just doesn't look normal. I can live with it though. I just wanted a fix if there was one. << It's just not really much force. One count is about 0.4% of full scale and it only stays in effect for one frame, you get a chance to correct it each frame by moving the stick. You don't notice that, but when you're flying that's what happens, so you end up adjusting it so often that it's not a problem unless the frame rate drops to a low value. I used to get mail from people all the time - "My joystick works great except when I'm at low altitude. What's wrong with it?". Well, there's no way the joystick knows the altitude or cares. What had happened was the aircraft had gotten down into the ground clutter, usually at landing time, the frame rate had dropped way down, and things would get difficult to control with a strong tendency to overshoot because of the low frame rate. Anyway, "1" is as good as it gets, after calibration you might see "2" at certain positions, but there's not much you can do about it, and it usually doesn't really bother anything anyway. Hope this helps! Best regards, - Bob The StickWorks http://www.stickworks.com

Hi Jim, Well, they all "twitch" a little. It's how much they twitch by that matters. I'm assuming you don't have the Control Manager installed. "Installed" is all that matters, whether you're using a map or not doesn't really make any difference. What you need to check is the "Raw Value". Start into the normal Windows calibration. You don't really want to calibrate, at least not for this, but if you start into the calibration routine, early on there'll be a checkbox to "Show Raw Data" or something like that. Check that and it will show you the numbers coming up the wires from the controllers themselves. Digital systems can't do better than a one-count bobble. They don't do fractions, so if it's at a point where it should be 127.5 for example, it will show you 127...128...127..128.., etc. It averages out but it twitches when it does. With calibration you'll sometimes see a couple of counts because of the way the calibration works. How much "bobble" are you seeing? It helps to know that, it narrows down the list of possible problem. If you do have the CM installed drop to the desktop, run the CM GUI, open the calibration screen, and watch the "Raw Data" display. Same thing. Best regards, - Bob The StickWorks http://www.stickworks.com

Hi Andy, I would guess the only place MS searches on the 'net is Windows Update. The driver collectors probably check the manufacturers site too. If the manufacturer didn't pay MS to sign the driver, self-signed it instead probably, then MS could say "No" where the driver collector might say "Yes". Check the manufacturers site yourself. They should have the latest version, and if it doesn't come from there, where did it come from? If the manufacturer doesn't have it and Windows Update didn't send it to you, where did it come from? You might also check that you haven't "hidden" the driver from Windows Update, maybe sometime before you got the hardware. I don't know whether that would affect the search or not, but it can't hurt to take a look. Best regards, - Bob The StickWorks http://www.stickworks.com

Hi maf, That very slow response after it's been sitting for awhile is most often cause by the pot connections. CH uses a push-on connector and they get dirty or oxidize and it causes the A/D converters to not track at their normal speed. Usually just working the yoke in, out, left, and right for a minute or so will cause the connections to move a little an make good contact again, but if not then about the only thing you can do is open the thing up, move the push-on around a little to break the oxide layer, and then maybe take some pliers and squeeze the push-ons so they're tight again. Soldering the things is the best, really if you have the skills, but be very careful not to use very much heat or solder. Too much heat causes the pot terminals to expand and loosen the rivets, they the pot goes intermittent. I've fixed that with a center punch in the past. Put the point into the center of the rivet and tap it a little to expand it and tighten it up again. One note. If the yoke is still in warranty, opening it will void whatever time is left, the only way around it is to send it back to CH and having them repair it for you. Try just working the axes a bit first, that will usually clear the problem it it has set for too long. Opening the thing isn't any fun anyway. Best regards, - Bob The StickWorks http://www.stickworks.com

Hi, FWIW, Google throws a "Reported Attack Site" message on the link in the message above. Downloading malicious software behind your back, things like that. You might want to avoid it. Best regards, - Bob The StickWorks http://www.stickworks.com

Hi caffeinegum, WRT the signup, there's not much you can. Sometimes they only block free providers like GMail et al, but I had a look and I can't even find a "Join" button. I'd take the software they're offering you (I think that last line is a link) and try it. Set a manual System Restore point first. If anything goes wrong, uninstall it and then go back to the manual restore point. As far as what you'd lose, probably the ability to send characters with the buttons and axes. I guress there's a bit more to it, but those would be the main things. If you can live without them, and you really can with FS and the like, then you could try just not using it. FS has lots of programming functions built-in, FSX has 1140 button/axis commands I think. You'd need to pick up FSUIPC (or learn to edit XML files) to get to them all, FS only shows about 450 of them, but other than that you wouldn't really miss much. A lot of other sims don't have that much capability though. As far as the revision number goes, I wouldn't worry about it. You had to specify the stick model and OS at download, it may be that they just didn't update it for all the models, unsupported functions and things like that can create problems for updates. I'd think the site would have the latest verions on it. Good luck! Best regards, - Bob The StickWorks http://www.stickworks.com

Hi caffeinegum, I don't really know the answers, but did you join the Saitek Forum or just go there and look at what's visible. Until you join, you only get to see about 1/10th of what's available (announcements and common fixes as I recall). Once you sign up, you get access to several more forums and a lot more information. Chances are you can find the information on the driver in there somewhere. Best regards, - Bob The StickWorks http://www.stickworks.com

Hi Anthony, Center sticks are difficult to get set up. I usually deal with combat simulator people that use sticks almost exclusively and the better way is generally a side-stick configuration. If you've got a chair with arms on it, try to work out a bracket or shelf at the front of the arm so that when your arm is lying on the arm of the chair, your hand falls naturally onto the stick handle without having to bend your arm or your wrist. Usually putting them on the desk is a tiresome configuration anyway, it's too high and you end up with your arm having to go up at an angle from your elbow and your wrist bending to grab the stick. It's uncomfortable and tiring. Usually they set them just ahead of the arm of the chair and dropped a bit below it so that in straight and level flight your arm rests on the arm of the chair and your wrist doesn't have to bend. Something similar on the left can be used for a separate throttle if you get one of those at some point. You end up with better control, your arm and wrist don't tire so quickly, and if the stick has hat switches and buttons on it they're much easier to reach with the stick in that position. When your arm is coming upward and your wrist has to bend to grab it, the POV hat and the whatever else is up at the top of the stick can be very difficult to operate, especially if you have smaller hands. You might browse look around some of the combat sim forums at the pictures of the cockpits those guys build, mostly all they use are joysticks, and see if you can get some ideas there. Best regards, - Bob The StickWorks http://www.stickworks.com

Hi Turner, You're also not looking for a potentiometer, really. They can be made to spin continuously. They used to go out sometimes to at least 10 turns, I don't know where they are today, but what you need is an encoder, technically a "quadrature encoder". They put out a pair of pulses that overlap by half their width. As you spin it one way, side A will go high, then side B will go high, then side A will go low then side B will go low. That keeps repeating as long as you spin it in the direction. If you spin it the other way, side B will go high before side A goes high and low before side A goes low. You can tell the direction by whether A goes high before B or B goes high before A. Where you might find one, maybe someone else knows a source. Industrial electronics places sold them, but they were pretty expensive. OTOH, mice do the same thing, so they cheaper ones are probably available. You should check with Leo Bodnar and see if his board will decode the A and B signals. I think I read somewhere that it would, I think FSUIPC will decode them too. Anyway, search "encoders" you can probably find something that will work for you. Best regards, - Bob The StickWorks http://www.stickworks.com

Hi Ben, Just as a point of interest, neither the HE nor the Pot have anything to do with the ultimate resolution. That's determined solely by the resolution of the A/D converter that digitizes the value, the resolution of either of the sensor types is "infinite" for all intents and purposes. Best regards, - Bob The StickWorks http://www.stickworks.com

Hi ianzee, >> It had recently developed a tendency to swing to the right when in flight. So I re-calibrated it through FSX - (big mistake!) << Exactly so. FS9 and FSX running under 64-bit Vista or Win7 let you calibrate from within FS. That sends you through the standard Windows calibration which makes registry entries that prevent the Control Manager drivers (map or no map) from operating correctly. You have to calibrate it only from the Control Manager GUI, never from Windows. You need to clear the Windows calibration data. There are a couple of ways to do it. Probably the quickest is to go back into FS and start calibrating the CH Device(s) again. Early on in the process, you'll be given the option to "Clear the Calibration Data" or something like that. Do that, then don't finish the calibration. Exit as gracefully as possible, close FS, and calibrate with the CM again. The other, slightly more drastic, action is to drop by the Logitech WingmanTeam site: http://www.wingmanteam.com Look for a free utility on the first page called "ClrCalib.exe". Download that, unplug all your controllers (note which ports they're plugged into), and run it. It wipes the data for every controller on the machine. Plug things back into the ports they were in before you started, then restart Windows. You'll need to recalibrate everything again. For the CH stuff, use the Control Manager GUI calibration. If you've got non-CH gear on the machine too, just calibrate in FS or using the Control Panel. That should fix things up. Do make sure that any trim wheels on the CH gear are centered before you calibrate (on the yoke, it's only the one on the main housing to the left of where the yoke shaft comes out of the case, not the ones on the Eclipse hub if you've got one of those). After that, don't use the trim wheel again, it just screws up the calibration. If you need to trim, use the button trim or analog trim that FS itself supplies. Give that a try, see if it doesn't sort things out for you. Best regards, - Bob The StickWorks http://www.stickworks.com

Hi rbc70,It's probably picking up the default settings for that ZRotation axis will spin it around, but it could be any of the controllers really.Go through the FS Controls Assignments dialog and check the Slew assignments for all the controllers, make sure it's only where you want it to be.Best regards,- BobThe StickWorkshttp://www.stickworks.com