Catastrophic water cooler failure

[alainneedle1 97]

I was puzzled as to why my puter would kick in, then stop. So I restarted it, and again. Still it would just stop on its own, then after 5 or 7 trials it would not even start up the fans:   

 

 

   ***   The scream of silence   ***

 

 

 

 

Sorry to hear about that, there is a solution....waterproof momo..

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=CSXJj6gzsfU

 

http://www.legitreviews.com/news/15576/

[peppy197 165]

........ but I do think that if the manufacturer's addressed the issue further, and designed in features that improved the coolers in this respect, they would sell many more units.

 

 

Check this alluminum mount with copper contact: SilverStone Tundra TD02/TD03 Liquid coolers

http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/silverstone_tundra_td02td03_liquid_coolers.html

 

200$ ??

 

 

 

As it stands, if I installed one of these water cooling solutions, I would always have it in the back of my mind, will it leak, will it leak?.

 

 

You probably only satnd to lose a MB, Most HDs would be out of the waterfall zone.

 

And if you dont try starting th puter 10 times like I did, maybe even that would be saved.

 

My 670/4G was spared.....after a throrough cleaning by hand using Q-tips and lots of isopropyl OH (tip: do not replace the vc backboard which has rubbery strips that retain liquid and short things out and go zap zap)

 

I also had to re-activate Win7 by phone but everythins else still works

Sorry to hear about that, there is a solution....waterproof momo..

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=CSXJj6gzsfU

 

 

 

 

That is what I was seeing !!!!!!

[vc10man 732]

@peppy197

 

Boy, your post was a wake-up call. I've toying with the idea of fitting a Corsair H80 or is it the model up, the H100 to my new proposed rig. Now after reading your sorry mishap with the water cooler causing such havoc, something that I always thought had the potential to go belly-up and cause such grief, I reckon I'll play safe and stick to the very good, very efficient CPU air cooler I bought for the new rig.

 

 

I also had to re-activate Win7 by phone

Why by phone? Can it not be re-activated online?

[peppy197 165]

@peppy197

 

......., I reckon I'll play safe and stick to the very good, very efficient CPU air cooler I bought for the new rig.

 

 

Why by phone? Can it not be re-activated online?

 

 

If you want maximum cooling, go water, mine was 5 yearws old, and cheap.

 

A new MB sometimes requires a phone activation which is still essentially computer automated voice string entries....

 

Besides, I had re-activated maybe 5 times (?) in the past

[Noel 4,503]

I think I'm going to get a decent air cooler, maybe the Noctua D-14, and then move my thru-the-wall A/C unit outside the wall rather than in the wall as it is now:

 

 

 

...then direct the airflow straight over the CPU HSF as it is now plus around the rest of the motherboard platform & ram modules.  This way we can keep the noise down by making the A/C unit remote and using shielded ducting for the A/C to pump air thru.  Low noise (hopefully--will mount the A/C unit completely outside the exterior 6" wall). No water damage risk.  And bonus, the whole thing gets cooled.  This is what I have now, just is a bit loud w/ the thru-the-wall installation.

[peppy197 165]

Seeing you still have a floppy disk drive that must be an old setup?

Can generate as much heat as a 4.6G OC?

[OmniAtlas 93]

And that's why I don't use a water cooler. Have a cooler master heatsink that actually kicks some water cooler &@($*.

[martin-w 3,235]

 

Check this alluminum mount with copper contact: SilverStone Tundra TD02/TD03 Liquid coolers

http://www.guru3d.co...id_coolers.html

 

 

Interesting. Not sure how leak poof it would be though, there are still the pipe joints to worry about.

 

 

 

 

You probably only satnd to lose a MB, Most HDs would be out of the waterfall zone.

 

 

And if you dont try starting th puter 10 times like I did, maybe even that would be saved.

 

You were lucky though. Many have lost expensive graphics cards and motherboards. See the Corsair support forum, and elsewhere on the net.

I think I'm going to get a decent air cooler, maybe the Noctua D-14, and then move my thru-the-wall A/C unit outside the wall rather than in the wall as it is now:

 

 

 

...then direct the airflow straight over the CPU HSF as it is now plus around the rest of the motherboard platform & ram modules.  This way we can keep the noise down by making the A/C unit remote and using shielded ducting for the A/C to pump air thru.  Low noise (hopefully--will mount the A/C unit completely outside the exterior 6" wall). No water damage risk.  And bonus, the whole thing gets cooled.  This is what I have now, just is a bit loud w/ the thru-the-wall installation.

 

 

Noel, unless you live in the middle of the Sahara desert and do your simming in the midday sun, while directing a blowtorch at your PC, there's no way you will need your home made air con rig.

 

The NH-D14 will be more than adequate for your cooling needs.

[Noel 4,503]

Seeing you still have a floppy disk drive that must be an old setup?

Can generate as much heat as a 4.6G OC?

Haha, the FDD was moved forward from the prior build just for the heck of it.  I've used it a few times back when I first put this system together 5.5y ago.   Not sure what you mean by 'can generate as much heat...' but I can tell you blowing 40F air into an open case is pretty effective from the ambient air point of view.  Since we have hot summers here the A/C was nice to have in my small PC room anyway so it works out well.  When I was o'clocking to 4.2Ghz this setup kept everything quite cool:  w/ a retail HSF the CPU stayed around 66C at peak load, and bonus, everything else stays cool too.  Not sure why more folks don't use this approach, except as I say it's not exactly silent computing.  I use a dual-boot config and when I'm not doing FSX I run w/o A/C and therefore it's quiet when I need it.  The other nice fact on this is I can switch out computers and it still works ;o)

[Noel 4,503]

 

 

Noel, unless you live in the middle of the Sahara desert and do your simming in the midday sun, while directing a blowtorch at your PC, there's no way you will need your home made air con rig.
 
The NH-D14 will be more than adequate for your cooling needs.

 

Thanks, but it's already there ;o)  I hear what you're saying though.  It gets warm here in the summer so that's in part why I put this in as my small PC room can get pretty warm.  It was very useful when I had my Yorkfield o'clocked to 4.2Ghz w/ a retail HSF ;o) 

 

Gettin' close now--in fact I just ordered an EVGA GTX Titan 6Gb at $999 which was a good price.  I'm trying to decide between two different mobs:

 

 

ASUS P9X79-E WS LGA 2011 Intel X79

...which offers maximum expandability (which I probably shouldn't care about!)

 

or this guy:

 

 

ASUS Rampage IV Gene LGA 2011 Intel X79

...which is kind of the antithesis of the first one:  micro ATX, very limited expansion, but has everything else I'm looking for.

 

All of the ROG boards seems to have a lot of postings on Newegg about arriving DOA--about 25%!  That's of course 25% of postings, not 25% of boards purchased.  But still!

 

I'm kind of seeing this build as likely one to last 6+ years.  If I pick up an SB-E I can always replace it w/ IB-E it appears on these mobos, or so I believe.

[martin-w 3,235]

 

 

Thanks, but it's already there ;o)  I hear what you're saying though.  It gets warm here in the summer so that's in part why I put this in as my small PC room can get pretty warm.  It was very useful when I had my Yorkfield o'clocked to 4.2Ghz w/ a retail HSF ;o) 

 

Fair enough. The following is interesting though.

 

In regard to my 3770K, running at 4.5 GHz, with the D14... I get about 55 degrees in FSX, at an ambient temp of 20C.

 

So that's 35 degrees above ambient. 40 max.

 

So even if in your summer the ambient got to 40C, [ 104 degree Fahrenheit] you would still be under 80 degrees, and safe.

 

 

Gettin' close now--in fact I just ordered an EVGA GTX Titan 6Gb at $999 which was a good price.  I'm trying to decide between two different mobs:

 

Very nice indeed.

 

Have you decided on enclosure yet?

[peppy197 165]

I now have a new water cooler installed

Works like a dream

 

OC'd to a prime95-stable  4.6 GHz 

 

Temps average from 42 to 55+ while under FSX's stress (lots of fps 25 to 70)

 

28 degrees C after Win7-64 has loaded, 33-40 ruinning iTunes movey. 

[vc10man 732]

 

 

now have a new water cooler installed

Which make and model?

[peppy197 165]

Which make and model?

 

Thermaltake Water 2.0 Performer

Much nicer and plyable and all, 2 fans

[martin-w 3,235]

I now have a new water cooler installed

Works like a dream

 

OC'd to a prime95-stable  4.6 GHz 

 

Temps average from 42 to 55+ while under FSX's stress (lots of fps 25 to 70)

 

28 degrees C after Win7-64 has loaded, 33-40 ruinning iTunes movey. 

 

 

Nice, glad you are happy.

 

The Thermaltake Water Two Performer, is actually 3 degrees warmer than the NH-D14, so fairly close. So indeed a good performer. However, to achieve that it needs it's max 2000 rpm fan speed.

 

It's supposed to be fairly quiet in normal use though as it doesn't need to ramp up to those speeds.

 

Looks like you made a good choice.

 

Not an option for me, as I get slightly better performance with the D14, and zero chances of leaks.

 

Having said that. Thermaltake say...

 

 

 

The high-tech sealed circulation system prevents leaking issue.

 

If the above quote is true, it would seem to be a very good cooler indeed. If Thermaltake can back up this no chance of leaks claim, it could even sway people that fear leaks.

 

I must admit I'm dubious though, as it seems to be the same design as the H100. I'd like to know exactly what they have done to avoid leaks in terms of design.

 

 

http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00001883

 

 

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/thermaltake_water20_performer_pro/4.htm