LOL I don't know where I saw that (PSS that is) but I did, it stuck, and I always wondered why ;o)

 

Paradise, California.  However, I was born in New Jersey, moved to Alaska at age 7, lived in Washington State as well, so I've seen the cold and cool and damp.  Paradise has a fabulous climate IMHO but gets into the low 90's for several months during the summer here.  Me Mum was born in Wigan, England.

We are lucky if we get temps in the low 90's for a few days each summer in the UK.

 

The past few winters in the UK have been pretty bad. Thanks to melting ice caps, the jet stream has kinked lower, dragging cool air from the North. The AMO [Atlantic Multidecadal Oscillation] could be involved too. Looks like it could be another 5 to 10 years before we see better summers.

 

Anyway, good luck with the build Noel, hope all goes well. And make sure you let us know how you've got on when complete.

Thanks Martin. I must admit it looks a little intimidating. I've had great luck w/ my prior builds going back a ways, but I think this build has the potential for more problems. I'm guessing overclocking will not go so well w/ 4 DIMMS, though they are a quad-matched set of course. The HaF X arrived: good lord! My wife said, 'looks like Darth Vader!' Very functionally smart though I must admit. As big and heavy as it is it appears it should function quite well and be easy to work in--no problems w/ cramped anything! That's fine though it really doesn't matter that the exterior is large as it lives under a counter anyway. I was mistaken about where the side panel air is directed--it's at the GPU. I sense as you have mentioned heat management will not be huge especially if not overclocked to the extreme so the default case design and air flow + DH14 should handle it quite adequately. My plan is to remove the shroud that route A/C air thru 4" ducting to my CPU HSF, and just allow the A/C to gently blow cooled air at the whole side of the case so cool air will go into the case's side fan, some will settle down low and enter the PSU air intake from the underside of the case (mount the PSU w/ the fan on the bottom, therefore sucking air into and thru the PSU, and the rest will flow around the front of the case as the primary & main air large fan-driven intake. So there really should be no need for ducting from the A/C unit. I'm praying the memory will work in quad-channel mode, though I hear that isn't so good for overclocking. Dunno! Wish to heck I could test memory w/o installing the D-14: this approach is not friendly if you run into troubles w/ bad memory! However, once it's debugged and running, all should be fine--and you have to love no water leak problems. I picked up 2 32Gb (4x8gb) 2400Mhz kits (G.Skill & Muskin), both of which can handle the DH-14 clearance issue. I have 30D to return the set that doesn't work well enough.

   Wish to heck I could test memory w/o installing the D-14:

 

 

I presume you mean testing one stick at a time in the event of RAM issues.

 

I guess you could install the Intel cooler that comes with the CPU initially [without overclocking of course] then test your memory. The Intel cooler is easy to install. That's if you have an Intel cooler, you may have bought the CPU OEM of course.

 

Then install the D14.

 

You have  a cut out in the motherboard tray so installing the cooler after the MB is installed shouldn't be an issue. Do check though, my Lian Li case, as it's an old design, doesn't have it's cut out in the right place for newer boards.

 

 

I presume you mean testing one stick at a time in the event of RAM issues.

Yep, that's what I mean.  This is about the only annoyance w/ the air cooling option w/ the D-14.  The retail boxed i7-3930Ks do not come w/ a HSF so that isn't an option.  

 

I've never had issues w/ ram w/ the several builds I've done over the past two decades.  However, I haven't done 4 sticks in quad-channel mode so that must add more potential for problems.  I'm hoping the secure fit mechanism for the D-14 isn't too nasty to apply and remove.  Hopefully I'll get a little lucky and be done w/ it.  I don't have to see 2400Mhz to be happy either, though I have my current build at the bleeding edge of low latency for its time!

I've done about 9 builds I guess over the years. In all that time I've only had one RAM issue. I did exactly what we just mentioned, tested one stick at a time to identify the bad stick. So yes, rare, unlikely you would have any issues.

 

The SecuForm 2 mounting is easy Noel, so don't worry about that. Won't be any issue for you to install. Even easier to reinstall as the mounting is already in place.

 

So easy your granny could do it. :smile:

 

For the RAM, I just used XMP mode and allowed it to configure itself. XMP works fine.

 

It's fairly common RAM you are using so I'm sure your board will have an XMP profile for that RAM. If the RAM you have bought is XMP of course.

So easy your granny could do it.

 

It was easy--but now comes the bad part. I took exquisite care to assemble this guy are carefully as I could including my usual obsession w/ eliminating static discharge. Doubled checked everything carefully. The D14 went on cleanly and all ... appeared well...

 

The moment of truth actually went quite well! Turned her on, got into the UEFI BIOS, TItan was lit up and and the default settings were in effect, DRAM at 1600Mhz, CPU at its stock 3.2Ghz. I had been following ASUS youtube video guide for o'clocking X79 systems, so followed the letter carefully, kept my 32Gb of 2400Mhz ram at 1600Mhz, and went for a modest overclock of 4.0Ghz on my 'K' processor, changing the multiplier to 40, Vcore at 1.25v for starters. Saved settings--wouldn't POST. Kept cycling off and on for maybe 6 times, at which point I decided to reset the BIOS using the jumpers to do so. Great! Rebooted fine. So I decided to try for a modest 3.6Ghz. This time, no POST whatsoever. In fact, no start at all. Dead! Oddly, the mobo lights were powered up, but hitting the start button would not start the machine at all--Dead!

 

The only non-newly purchased part was my PC Power & Cooling 750W PSU w/ 60A single 12v rail, which was about 4 years old, but never used, so was brand new albeit 4y/o in the box. This PSU has all of the specs to easily handle this machine: correct 8 & 6-pin PCIe connectors, ATX connector, 8-pin 12v EATX connector, etc. So at this point, I'm really feeling stumped. Fortunately, I could try only one trouble-shooting maneuver, and that is to try the PSU out on my other PC. I did, and same same: mainboard lights come on, but the machine won't start. Yeah! I hope so anyway. So...I'm really hoping I just have a bad PSU--so far this looks like the case. Despite the fact I have assembled many machines for 2 decades, I've never had this happen, and it is daunting if you don't have ways to test parts! Hopefully that's all it is, a bad PSU. I will go ahead and order another one tonight and keep my fingers that other parts aren't at fault here.

I could try only one trouble-shooting maneuver, and that is to try the PSU out on my other PC. I did, and same same: mainboard lights come on, but the machine won't start.

 

 

Sounds like it then. Seems pretty definitive that's it's your PSU. Or one of the cables perhaps... the ATX.

 

I test my PSU's with this guy...

 

http://store.antec.com/Product/accessories-other/digital-pc-power-tester/0-761345-77204-4.aspx

 

Great product. It gives you an immediate readout as the PSU's status.

 

You can also test a PSU with a basic multi-meter. You will find guidance how to do so on the internet.

 

Not trying to scare you, but sometimes a bad PSU can damage other components... it's very unlikely, so I'm confident you will be okay.

 

My advice would be Seasonic or Corsair power supplies. They do exactly what they claim to do and in the case of Corsair, often have higher capabilities than those advertised.

 

Had a bad PSU a while back. It was an old Enermax. It was powering the PC I just use for the internet, so not my gaming/simming rig.

 

Sudden shutdown, and malodours emissions from the PSU, so I knew immediately it had blown. As usual with these things my surge protector had to be replaced too.

 

So if you are using a surge protector, do check it, because as I say, a blown PSU can also take out a surge suppressor. They tend to be sacrificial devices, so not unusual. Don't know what you have in the US, but here in the UK, I'm referring to these...

 

http://www.belkin.com/uk/F9H400-2M-Belkin/p/P-F9H400-2M;jsessionid=CC920760BF07E101A745FFAE80436DDF

Corsair H100 series has an impeccable record for being stable and leak free. The H100i has excellent tubing and is all maintenance free as well!

Corsair H100 series has an impeccable record for being stable and leak free. The H100i has excellent tubing and is all maintenance free as well!

 

I wouldn't say "impeccable".  The Corsair forum is full of reported leaks.

 

Difficult to say what percentage of them do leak, without knowing exactly how many units they sell world wide, and how many fail. And there's no way Corsair would give us that information.

 

For me, my NH-D14 is equal to the H110 in cooling and ZERO chance of leaks.

 

 

Temps here, overclocked and under load...

 

http://www.guru3d.co..._review,13.html

 

H100i 76 degrees

Kraken X60 70 degrees

Corsair H110 72 degrees

NH-D14 72 degrees

 

Noise levels here...

 

http://www.guru3d.co..._review,11.html

 

There's literally ONE DBA between the H110 and NH-D14. Such a small difference shouldn't be audible to anyone.

 

The H100i is 5 DBA louder than the NH-D14.

 

There's no substitute for surface area, the NH-D14 and Silver Arrow have it in bucket loads... as does the H110.          

I wouldn't say "impeccable".  The Corsair forum is full of reported leaks.

 

Difficult to say what percentage of them do leak, without knowing exactly how many units they sell world wide, and how many fail. And there's no way Corsair would give us that information.

 

For me, my NH-D14 is equal to the H110 in cooling and ZERO chance of leaks.

 

 

Temps here, overclocked and under load...

 

http://www.guru3d.co..._review,13.html

 

H100i 76 degrees

Kraken X60 70 degrees

Corsair H110 72 degrees

NH-D14 72 degrees

 

Noise levels here...

 

http://www.guru3d.co..._review,11.html

 

There's literally ONE DBA between the H110 and NH-D14. Such a small difference shouldn't be audible to anyone.

 

The H100i is 5 DBA louder than the NH-D14.

 

There's no substitute for surface area, the NH-D14 and Silver Arrow have it in bucket loads... as does the H110.          

 

The Corsair support formus also have many threads on my SSD for failures, yet *knocks on wood* mine has not failed and many others have not suffered the same fate. Are there "bad apples" in a bunch, sure, I am very certain that Noctua has excellent QC just as Corsair does, both of these companies are not cheap knockoffs and both come highly recommended . I do wonder how bog the tubing is on the Noctua NH-D14 though, also whats the cold plate like?

Difficult to say what percentage of them do leak, without knowing exactly how many units they sell world wide, and how many fail. And there's no way Corsair would give us that information.

 

Martin, I am very happy w/ the D-14 in the HaF X case--loads of room, simple install, plus bonus, the side panel intake fan w/ cowling sucks air into the GPU area and so my room A/C unit which sits about 6" behind where the HaF X will live will gently blow out 40F air as desired, and I can see this air flowing thru not only that side panel large fan but also will settle down to the bottom of the case which is up an inch or so on rollers supplied with it and then be sucked up into the PSU (I planned on pulling air into the PSU from the bottom up), and also into the large (240mm?) fan on the front/bottom of the case. As you had opined likely A/C won't be needed very often, and I think this is especially so since I doubt I'll see very high clocks w/ 6 cores + 32gb of ram involved. Though it's going to be 99F out today, and up to 108F on Monday.

 

 

Not trying to scare you, but sometimes a bad PSU can damage other components... it's very unlikely, so I'm confident you will be okay.

 

My advice would be Seasonic or Corsair power supplies. They do exactly what they claim to do and in the case of Corsair, often have higher capabilities than those advertised.

 

You may have already rec'd an email on this.  Yes, I think it's hopeful the problem is limited to the PSU, but not certain by any means.   We'll deal w/ that headache if it becomes the case.   Prior to reading your reply here I purchased the Corsair HX850 just in case we go crazy and buy a 2nd Titan!  I certainly didn't need 850W but what the hey as long as we're there.

 

I have used a high quality UPS for many years to protect microcircuitry in several digital audio devices as it was touted to not only supply high quality surge protection but also 'clean' power.  Bonus there too--can see Watts used in realtime which will be interesting ;o)   Battery is still good in it too!

Not received any email's Noel. Don't think that's possible via this forum. Did you mean PM? Haven't received one of those either.

 

I have two Corsair PSU's. The HX850 like you, and also the TX850 for my other PC.

 

A UPS is a good idea, something I may consider in the future.

 

Have fun at 108F. 22C here today which isn't bad for us, only 17 on Monday, and not until 4PM.

The Corsair support formus also have many threads on my SSD for failures, yet *knocks on wood* mine has not failed and many others have not suffered the same fate. Are there "bad apples" in a bunch, sure, I am very certain that Noctua has excellent QC just as Corsair does, both of these companies are not cheap knockoffs and both come highly recommended . I do wonder how bog the tubing is on the Noctua NH-D14 though, also whats the cold plate like?

 

Yes, as I say, it's impossible to tell how common leaks are. May be minimal in terms of percentage, so minimal risk. On the other hand, leaks could be more common than we think. For me, I would always be wondering if it was leaking or about to leak.

 

Thing about SSD's though, is if they do fail they don't take out other components. If a closed loop cooler fails, it's likely to damage both motherboard and graphics card. Then you have the hassle of persuading the manufacturer of said cooler to replace your damaged kit.

 

I'm not trying to deride water coolers, they are great products, but it's certainly necessary to mull over the negative aspects of the design before deciding on a purchase.

I do wonder how bog the tubing is on the Noctua NH-D14 though, also whats the cold plate like?

 

Well, the tubing diameter is big enough for an air cooler. As evidenced by the great cooling, that matches the H110. The Silver Arrow has wider diameter heat pipes, plus extra I recall. And does cool a fraction better.

 

The base of the NH-D14 is smooth enough. It's not supposed to be super smooth. You can lap it if you so choose. In my experience though, lapping is a bit pointless, as it only reduces temps very, very marginally. This is what Noctua have to say...

 

Why doesn't the base of Noctua coolers have a polished, mirror like finish?

As most of today's PC enthusiasts use high-viscosity thermal compounds, the contact surface of Noctua coolers is optimised for use with this type of pastes. The micro-grooves at the contact surface ensure that high-viscosity thermal compounds are dispersed to a uniform thin layer across the whole contact area and that no air pockets remain between the cooler and the CPU. With a polished, mirror like surface, the risk of uneven dispersion is much higher. As too thick layers of thermal paste and air pockets drastically deteriorate heat transmission, the micro-grooves are is of vital importance to the overall cooling performance of Noctua coolers when used with today's high-viscosity thermal pastes.

 

Yes, as I say, it's impossible to tell how common leaks are. May be minimal in terms of percentage, so minimal risk. On the other hand, leaks could be more common than we think. For me, I would always be wondering if it was leaking or about to leak.

 

Thing about SSD's though, is if they do fail they don't take out other components. If a closed loop cooler fails, it's likely to damage both motherboard and graphics card. Then you have the hassle of persuading the manufacturer of said cooler to replace your damaged kit.

 

I'm not trying to deride water coolers, they are great products, but it's certainly necessary to mull over the negative aspects of the design before deciding on a purchase.

 

Well, the tubing diameter is big enough for an air cooler. As evidenced by the great cooling, that matches the H110. The Silver Arrow has wider diameter heat pipes, plus extra I recall. And does cool a fraction better.

 

The base of the NH-D14 is smooth enough. It's not supposed to be super smooth. You can lap it if you so choose. In my experience though, lapping is a bit pointless, as it only reduces temps very, very marginally. This is what Noctua have to say...

Should have figured an Air Cooler from Noctua, they are well known for that, I am just not familiar with their product line, just their excellent reputation. I am personally using a Zalman CNPS9900ALED Air cooler with AS5 and its awesome, I upgraded my friend with the CNPS12X and that thing is nothing short of MASSIVE, and it cools like a beast (it should with 3 120mm fans) but depending upon the motherboard and ram you have you may run into clearance problems.