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peppy197

Catastrophic water cooler failure

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I was puzzled as to why my puter would kick in, then stop. So I restarted it, and again. Still it would just stop on its own, then after 5 or 7 trials it would not even start up the fans:   

 

 

   ***   The scream of silence   ***

 

 

As the phrase implies. It died.

Then I took out the 500$ videocard and examined it. To my surprise there was a ton of liquid comming out of it. But where the heck would it get water? I am 30 feet from the bathroom !  And coffee is of the darkest black in my room. There was also some liquid traces on the MB. Odd thing eh?

 

After a few minutes of chin thumbing, I thought:  WATER COOLER !!!!!!

 

Dambed.

 

I did  a thorough cleansing and drying. Replaced the CPU heatsink with the stock. Not a sound from the fans. Should at least do that without a videocard.

 

Bathed by immersion the MB and Videocards in isopropyl alcohol 99% pure (500 mL). Let dry a day after using the hair drying to dry them.

Still not a sound.

Just a little green light to say the PSU was on standby. Tried a spare PSU...same results.

 

Conclusion: a least MB dead. Maybe Video; probably not the CPU as it was above the waterfall. The MB PCIe slots were the worst off. Water stays in there forever due to its comb structure.

 

Went to the local shop but being in a small town there were only Gigabyte MBs and no ASUS which I had. So I had to change motherboards. Got a Z77 chipset to circumvent the videocard for install incase it was also dead.

 

Installed MB only, new artic paste on CPU, and voila the fans were singing to their delight !!  

 

Now to get everything back to normal ?

By starting windows7 in safe mode, it was able to insert viable drivers. And it loaded up no problem. Needed telephone activation. OK (dont forget to say "one" to the question of how many computers!). SO I got that activated and then replaced the driveres as needed to up-to-date from net.

 

Videocard:   thanks to its bath, it was now free of that whitish layer of residue. And works fine,

I think it was the PCIe slots that outdid the MB, while with the videocard the water just rolled on past and/or through it without  permanent retention and soaking ...

 

Wew!!!!!!!!

 

Saved the 500$ videocard . Registry intact and OK

 

Now to go out and get a new water cooler. :Praying:  :Big Grin:

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what kind of water cooler did you have? I check mine for leaks before every start up kind of a pre flight ya know haha

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Sorry to hear that. I take it it was an open loop cooler?

I have a closed loop sealed hoping to ever avoid that story.

 

 

 

 

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what kind of water cooler did you have? I check mine for leaks before every start up kind of a pre flight ya know haha

 

twas an ECO Cool-It

 

no model number

 

I suspect the reason for the failure was that I set the CPU fan to max through the BIOS which meant is was always running the pump at full, and the raiator fan too, at full speeds thus lowering avg temps by a whopping 4 degrees....overclockers beware and be forwarned!.

Sorry to hear that. I take it it was an open loop cooler?

I have a closed loop sealed hoping to ever avoid that story.

 

 

A kit...closed looped. Cheap, 60$

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Good Lord--give me a blithering aviation-grade water cooler or give me a decent air cooler!  Thank you for helping me feel good about the D-14 I'm about to purchase!  

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Good Lord--give me a blithering aviation-grade water cooler or give me a decent air cooler!  Thank you for helping me feel good about the D-14 I'm about to purchase!  

 

Thanks for the lead

 

The only worry I have with mail ordering air coolers is: will it fit?

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The only worry I have with mail ordering air coolers is: will it fit?

 

Indeed!  Taking recommendations on that question right now:  which case?  I found 2400Mhz ram that will work w/ the D-14, but not sure about the case yet ;o)

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Indeed!  Taking recommendations on that question right now:  which case?  I found 2400Mhz ram that will work w/ the D-14, but not sure about the case yet ;o)

 

I guess the best approach is only order if you can get specific dimensions from the specifications sheet from the manufacturer, or if it obvious...

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Another tip when installing a new MB:

 

Install the mouse/keyboard USB into a legacy 2.0 slot NOT a 3.0

 

This made me eat all my fingernails until it clued in

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I suspect the reason for the failure was that I set the CPU fan to max through the BIOS which meant is was always running the pump at full, and the raiator fan too, at full speeds thus lowering avg temps by a whopping 4 degrees....overclockers beware and be forwarned!.

 

 

 

You know what, I seriously doubt it was because you ran it at full. The pump should be designed to run at it's max speed for extended periods. If it's not, then it's a badly designed product. Decent products are tested to withstand usage beyond the average requirement.

 

I would say just a random failure.

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I too think the product was inferior (the ECO Cool-It is no longer sold anywheres).

 

And now that I know how to recover from a catastrophic failure of the water cooler...

 

I am right this very moment unpacking a lovely Thermalake Water 2.0 Performer Liquid Cooler

 

Very optimistic about it too it looks much better.

 

SO DO NOT AVOID WATER COOLERS just because they can fail  !! You'll be able to recover somehow

 

 

My new Baby

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Glad to see your PC works despite the flooding. Best wishes on your next cooler!

Nicolás

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I had the exact same cooler, and the exact same situation.

 

Luckily was 3 days away from the 3 year warranty expiring, and since built by a major custom PC builder, had the destroyed motherboard and video card replaced.

 

Wasn't until after that I started reading the number of horror stories. Seems this one of the first closed loop coolers, and they all seem to "pop" after an extended time - mine wasn't even working that hard - fans typically around 40% cooling an i7-980x oc to 4.0GHz.

 

I think there's a warning here for anyone with one of these coolers - replace it before it causes all manners of headaches.

 

Danny

 

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You know what, the more and more I hear about these all in one water coolers leaking, the more convinced I am that sticking to air cooling is the way to go for me.

 

If heat pipe coolers are the preferred cooling method for the many satellite's that orbit our planet, that have to cope with VERY extreme temperature issues... then heat pipe air coolers are fine for me.

 

I know leaks are said to be quiet rare, but I do think that if the manufacturer's addressed the issue further, and designed in features that improved the coolers in this respect, they would sell many more units.

 

As it stands, if I installed one of these water cooling solutions, I would always have it in the back of my mind, will it leak, will it leak?.

 

I think I would be more confident about a full-blown custom built water cooling set up. At least then I would have control mover the compression fittings myself, as I made the joints in the first place.

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I was puzzled as to why my puter would kick in, then stop. So I restarted it, and again. Still it would just stop on its own, then after 5 or 7 trials it would not even start up the fans:   

 

 

   ***   The scream of silence   ***

 

 

 

 

Sorry to hear about that, there is a solution....waterproof momo..

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=CSXJj6gzsfU

 

http://www.legitreviews.com/news/15576/

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........ but I do think that if the manufacturer's addressed the issue further, and designed in features that improved the coolers in this respect, they would sell many more units.

 

 

Check this alluminum mount with copper contact: SilverStone Tundra TD02/TD03 Liquid coolers

http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/silverstone_tundra_td02td03_liquid_coolers.html

 

200$ ??

 

 

 

As it stands, if I installed one of these water cooling solutions, I would always have it in the back of my mind, will it leak, will it leak?.

 

 

You probably only satnd to lose a MB, Most HDs would be out of the waterfall zone.

 

And if you dont try starting th puter 10 times like I did, maybe even that would be saved.

 

My 670/4G was spared.....after a throrough cleaning by hand using Q-tips and lots of isopropyl OH (tip: do not replace the vc backboard which has rubbery strips that retain liquid and short things out and go zap zap)

 

I also had to re-activate Win7 by phone but everythins else still works

Sorry to hear about that, there is a solution....waterproof momo..

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=CSXJj6gzsfU

 

 

 

 

That is what I was seeing !!!!!!

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@peppy197

 

Boy, your post was a wake-up call. I've toying with the idea of fitting a Corsair H80 or is it the model up, the H100 to my new proposed rig. Now after reading your sorry mishap with the water cooler causing such havoc, something that I always thought had the potential to go belly-up and cause such grief, I reckon I'll play safe and stick to the very good, very efficient CPU air cooler I bought for the new rig.


 

 


I also had to re-activate Win7 by phone

Why by phone? Can it not be re-activated online?

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@peppy197

 

......., I reckon I'll play safe and stick to the very good, very efficient CPU air cooler I bought for the new rig.

 

 

Why by phone? Can it not be re-activated online?

 

 

If you want maximum cooling, go water, mine was 5 yearws old, and cheap.

 

A new MB sometimes requires a phone activation which is still essentially computer automated voice string entries....

 

Besides, I had re-activated maybe 5 times (?) in the past

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I think I'm going to get a decent air cooler, maybe the Noctua D-14, and then move my thru-the-wall A/C unit outside the wall rather than in the wall as it is now:

 

 

 

...then direct the airflow straight over the CPU HSF as it is now plus around the rest of the motherboard platform & ram modules.  This way we can keep the noise down by making the A/C unit remote and using shielded ducting for the A/C to pump air thru.  Low noise (hopefully--will mount the A/C unit completely outside the exterior 6" wall). No water damage risk.  And bonus, the whole thing gets cooled.  This is what I have now, just is a bit loud w/ the thru-the-wall installation.

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Seeing you still have a floppy disk drive that must be an old setup?

Can generate as much heat as a 4.6G OC?

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And that's why I don't use a water cooler. Have a cooler master heatsink that actually kicks some water cooler &@($*.

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Check this alluminum mount with copper contact: SilverStone Tundra TD02/TD03 Liquid coolers

http://www.guru3d.co...id_coolers.html

 

 

Interesting. Not sure how leak poof it would be though, there are still the pipe joints to worry about.

 

 

 

 

You probably only satnd to lose a MB, Most HDs would be out of the waterfall zone.

 

 

And if you dont try starting th puter 10 times like I did, maybe even that would be saved.

 

You were lucky though. Many have lost expensive graphics cards and motherboards. See the Corsair support forum, and elsewhere on the net.

I think I'm going to get a decent air cooler, maybe the Noctua D-14, and then move my thru-the-wall A/C unit outside the wall rather than in the wall as it is now:

 

 

 

...then direct the airflow straight over the CPU HSF as it is now plus around the rest of the motherboard platform & ram modules.  This way we can keep the noise down by making the A/C unit remote and using shielded ducting for the A/C to pump air thru.  Low noise (hopefully--will mount the A/C unit completely outside the exterior 6" wall). No water damage risk.  And bonus, the whole thing gets cooled.  This is what I have now, just is a bit loud w/ the thru-the-wall installation.

 

 

Noel, unless you live in the middle of the Sahara desert and do your simming in the midday sun, while directing a blowtorch at your PC, there's no way you will need your home made air con rig.

 

The NH-D14 will be more than adequate for your cooling needs.

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Seeing you still have a floppy disk drive that must be an old setup?

Can generate as much heat as a 4.6G OC?

Haha, the FDD was moved forward from the prior build just for the heck of it.  I've used it a few times back when I first put this system together 5.5y ago.   Not sure what you mean by 'can generate as much heat...' but I can tell you blowing 40F air into an open case is pretty effective from the ambient air point of view.  Since we have hot summers here the A/C was nice to have in my small PC room anyway so it works out well.  When I was o'clocking to 4.2Ghz this setup kept everything quite cool:  w/ a retail HSF the CPU stayed around 66C at peak load, and bonus, everything else stays cool too.  Not sure why more folks don't use this approach, except as I say it's not exactly silent computing.  I use a dual-boot config and when I'm not doing FSX I run w/o A/C and therefore it's quiet when I need it.  The other nice fact on this is I can switch out computers and it still works ;o)

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Noel, unless you live in the middle of the Sahara desert and do your simming in the midday sun, while directing a blowtorch at your PC, there's no way you will need your home made air con rig.
 
The NH-D14 will be more than adequate for your cooling needs.

 

Thanks, but it's already there ;o)  I hear what you're saying though.  It gets warm here in the summer so that's in part why I put this in as my small PC room can get pretty warm.  It was very useful when I had my Yorkfield o'clocked to 4.2Ghz w/ a retail HSF ;o) 

 

Gettin' close now--in fact I just ordered an EVGA GTX Titan 6Gb at $999 which was a good price.  I'm trying to decide between two different mobs:

 

 

ASUS P9X79-E WS LGA 2011 Intel X79

...which offers maximum expandability (which I probably shouldn't care about!)

 

or this guy:

 

 

ASUS Rampage IV Gene LGA 2011 Intel X79

...which is kind of the antithesis of the first one:  micro ATX, very limited expansion, but has everything else I'm looking for.

 

All of the ROG boards seems to have a lot of postings on Newegg about arriving DOA--about 25%!  That's of course 25% of postings, not 25% of boards purchased.  But still!

 

I'm kind of seeing this build as likely one to last 6+ years.  If I pick up an SB-E I can always replace it w/ IB-E it appears on these mobos, or so I believe.

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