Hi Mike,

 

Sorry, don't know that one.

 

Oh if you're adventurous you can lap your CPU and cooler block (be it water or air) ... lapping is a lot of work and in my testing (going back a few years) I only saw 1-2 degree C temp difference under load.  Not really worth it, but if you want try it out it's pretty easy to do just make sure you don't damage the CPU, plenty of video's on CPU lapping on YouTube.  Some people say it's a huge difference, but many tests I've seen there have been some variances in the testing procedure that invalids the results/claims.

 

Anyway, here is a video:

 

 

If you do lap, you still need thermal paste, but use less ... personally I think the application of paste is more critical than lapping.

 

Cheers, Rob.

 

WARNING: lapping can be risky if not done right, use at your own risk

Hi Rob

One last query, if I may, on this topic: what is the unused CHA FAN PWM pin for on each MoBo chassis fan header?

 

Regards,

Mike

 

PWM can automatically adjust the fans RPM's depending on the temperature

 

and a regular one just spins at its rated speed.

 

For a fan controller, regular ones would be best, because... well you are essentially doing what PWM does but with your hand.

Hi Rob,

 

LOL! All that effort for 1 degree C. It's bad enough I have to look at my ugly mug twice a day, but to spend all that time just to see it on my lapped CPU....you've got to be kidding! I think you can safely say I'm quite likely to pass on that one

 

This build will be my one and only overclocking excursion. Since I started flight simming all those years ago it seems my approach to each build has always been fairly safe. Consequently I found myself forever playing catch up with you guys. Enough is enough, now it's my turn to sample the fruits of performance heaven or as near to it as I am ever going to get. I am enjoying the experience and learning much that is new to me. However, I won't be doing this again.

 

I found this on Wikipedia:

 

The common cooling fans used in computers use standardized connectors with two to four pins. The first two pins are always used to deliver power to the fan motor, while the rest can be optional, depending on fan design and type:

 

Ground

 

Power – nominally +12 V, though it may be variable depending on fan type and desired fan rotation speed

 

Sense output from fan – outputs a signal that pulses twice for each rotation of the fan as a pulse train, frequency being proportional to speed.

 

Control input – a pulse-width modulation (PWM) signal, which gives the ability to adjust the rotation speed on the fly without changing the input voltage delivered to the cooling fan.

 

The color of the wires connected to these pins varies depending on the number of connectors, but the role of each pin is standardized and guaranteed to be the same on any system. Cooling fans equipped with either two- or three-pin connectors are usually designed to accept a wide range of input voltages, which directly affects the rotation speed of the blades.

 

Cheers!

Mike

PWM can automatically adjust the fans RPM's depending on the temperature

 

Should only need 3 pins for that not 4?  At least on my setup the Fans will adjust with temp changes ... or did I misunderstand Mike's comment in regards to the CHA FAN PWM pin?

 

I believe some 3rd party fan controllers can hook into the temps via software and USB connection so you get the best of both.

 

Cheers, Rob.

Should only need 3 pins for that not 4?  At least on my setup the Fans will adjust with temp changes ... or did I misunderstand the Mike's comment in regards to the CHA FAN PWM pin?

 

I believe some 3rd party fan controllers can hook into the temps via software and USB connection so you get the best of both.

 

Cheers, Rob.

 

Correct Rob as I would need to hook up to a 4 pin USB header to use the usb cable to control corasir water cooling software - which I dont use now I use ASUS MB software to control fan speeds 

 

 

Control input – a pulse-width modulation (PWM) signal, which gives the ability to adjust the rotation speed on the fly without changing the input voltage delivered to the cooling fan.

 

Oh cool, I always assumed 3 wire and was controlled input voltage ... so I assume this means you need a 4 pin type of FAN to leverage the PWM option ... I guess something like this: http://www.directron.com/tfd12015h12zp.html?gsear=1

 

Cheers, Rob.

I think we can guess what Rob's next hardware revision will be

 

Mike

Oh cool, I always assumed 3 wire and was controlled input voltage ... so I assume this means you need a 4 pin type of FAN to leverage the PWM option ... I guess something like this: http://www.directron.com/tfd12015h12zp.html?gsear=1

 

Cheers, Rob.

 

Correct again Buddy 

Quick Update:

 

Ran into a snag, missing (or didn't order enough) a compression fitting so can't complete the build this weekend.

 

But some pics for case size differences 

 

Left is Core X9  Right is HAF X

 

 

 

Also to be noted ... the distance between my Titan X's is actually 4 slots not 3 slots (for full 16X slots).  I had ordered a 3 slot parallel connector which will not work.  So I'll go the serial tubing route ... after looking at some flow rate numbers I'm actually siding with serial setup and I might even put a pump control pot inline so I can control pump speed.

 

Controlling pump speed/flow is important because if the flow is too fast (most water pump kits appear to be too fast) then it reduces the efficiency of heat exchange ... and conversely if to slow it reduces the efficiency of heat exchange.  So I'll be adding two pump controllers also (dual loop setup). 

 

This is the connector I will NOT end up using:

 

 

Cheers, Rob.

Going to be an awesome build

Thanks Rich, too bad the water blocks will have to go when the Skylake is out and nVidia next gen GPU ... but at least I can salvage the rest of it (radiators, pumps, etc.).

 

So more pics, the EK Monoblock installed ... pretty straight forward, just have to be careful and go slow.  Must admit that water cooling kits have improved considerably over the years.

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, Rob.

Love the pics and updates B)    Ye, i'm never doing a build,  Ill stick to my Nvidea Inspector and hopefully win money some day 

 

and hopefully win money some day

 

Rich is Rich ... ask him what kinda car he drives

 

But for me it's the process that I enjoy, the final results are nice but I can't say I'm really doing all this work and spending this money just to squeeze out 200-400 Mhz ... the journey is the fun part.  

 

Pics/info is for anyone that may venture this way ... maybe save them some time reading tiny tiny instructions in black and white

 

Cheers, Rob.

Rich is Rich ... ask him what kinda car he drives

 

 

Super pics looking forward to more of them Rob - looks like some serious stuff going on there - my car lol not paid off yet - have to take out a loan for the system your building

Hi Rob,

 

My new build is coming along nicely and, once a couple of additional components arrive and have been installed, I should be good for 'first light'.

 

My question relates to overclocking vs software installation. I understand that I should set everything up including BIOS update (if necessary), Windows 7 Pro 64bit, Motherboard drivers from the Rampage V Extreme CD and any initial software requirements and driver updates BEFORE attempting to overclock the system. Once a stable overclock has been established, is it then necessary/desirable/mandatory to return to the initial Base clock BEFORE installing any additional software like, for example, Prepar3D? In other words, what is your usual practice?

 

If the answer is yes, then is there a quick way offered by the UEFI Bios utility to return the system to the initial 'SAFE' base clock? Is it simply a case of changing the, say, 125MHz BCLK frequency value to 100MHz?

 

Cheers!

Mike