remilton

It really depends on your glasses, where your camera is located and your environment. Some of us have found that the IR LED's light bounces off our glasses and interfere with the LED signal bouncing off our hat mounted TrackClip. I wear my Beyerdynamic DT990 any time I am gaming so as to keep from annoying others in the house, so the wireless TrackClipPro works out fine and is a joy to use compared to the original fragile wired version.

If you use the TrackClipPro and ensure you have the camera LED brightness set to 0 you will have no problem wearing your glasses. I use the wireless TrackClipPro you can find on the Ebay. Very sturdy and battery powered, won't break like the official one and it's wireless! .

Same here, Store version has been very reliable.

Ditto, I'll take an Aerostar, especially since it seems A2A had started some work on it before the wheels up landing. Besides, I like fast twin engine planes. It would be even better if it were the jet engine version of the Aerostar, but that is unlikely to happen.

Settings should be saved in the cloud. I have never had a problem with having to save anything to my local storage before reinstall on a different PC.

Now that you mention it, it doesn't happen with my phone. it does happen with my Amazon Fire tv sticks (4 of them) and my Sony smart tv. I plugged the Fire tv's into always on circuits and took the smart tv off the network and viola no more freezing. I don't know if this has something to do with my ATT fiber router or what. Edit: It was also about the time this all went away, I removed a several miniports that showed up in my network adapters and I disabled them. So this may be associated with it but I doubt it because I just had another event that shows up in the "FullEventLogVeiw". The event is as follows: Device SWD\DAFUPnPProvider\uuid:4d1b8796-3fb9-399a-ad0f-ecb26c4773a3 has been surprise removed as it is reported as missing on the bus. Count of devices removed: 1 That is one of my Firesticks which I will disconnect or replace as it is the most egregious. When this happens my pc renumerates all inputs which is why it freezes. It is getting better, but I wish I could find the root problem.

I finally found the solution to my long (~45sec) pauses. It seems that MSFS not only freezes when a USB device is plugged in or out, it also happens when any device on your home network turns on or off. I had to configure my Amazon Fire tv sticks so they would not turn off and remove my smart tv from the network since that feature was not really needed. I flew across japan last night without a freeze and across Portugal and Spain this morning again no freezes. I've been chasing this problem for months and it is finally over!

Very interesting! I installed my ROG Strix Z690-F motherboard back in May, which is about the time I started experiencing the long pauses. I'll be testing a non-Intel NIC as soon as I get one.

I have been searching for months for a solution for long pauses for some time now and I finally found a solution to most but not all of my long pauses. I used a program called "full event log view, you can download it here: https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/full_event_log_view.html So, when MSFS would freeze I would note the time and and run the above event logger and look for an error at or near that time. If it reported and IP address I then searched the registry for that IP to find what was giving the error and then I blocked that device in Windows firewall. I found I was getting long pauses when network devices had an event such as tv's turning on or off, Amazon Firesticks, Amazon Echo and some others I can't remember. There are some events local to my PC that occasionally cause pauses but I can't pin those down. So I have been able to trap and block most of these issues but I believe it comes down to an issue with MSFS coding.

Unfortunately, I have been having bee having long sim freezes for some time. Been going on so long that I have lost track of when it first started. I have tested my RAM; it's OK. I recently installed a new motherboard (same model), still freezing. I've reinstalled MSFS and tested with a clean community folder with no improvement. Turned off HAGS, no change. I went through Device Manager and unchecked "Save Power" every device with no change. It's very random and doesn't seem to be related to anything I am doing. Sometimes it will freeze before I can taxi to the active runway and every 5 to 10 minutes of flight time. I flew 105 miles the other day and the sim froze 5 times for about 45 seconds each time. Very frustrating.

Here is what I did. No need for any more reinforcement as there is no more pressure on the sockets.

Thanks for the help Charlie!

I get pretty smooth flying with unlimited FPS and Ultra setting

I had been suffering for quite a while as many others have with a faulty RJ-45 port on my Honeycomb Alpha Yoke. Being that my yoke is out of warranty, and I did not want to wait weeks for Honeycomb repair service, I decided to tackle it myself. I’ll attempt to provide steps for those who my wish to perform this fix on their yoke. PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMP THIS REPAIR UNLESS YOU HAVE EXPERIENCE WORKING ON SUCH THINGS. I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR DAMAGE TO YOUR YOKE. I apologize for there not being more photos, but I did not have my phone With me in the shop. First things first. Unplug your yoke’s USB cable. Next, remove the rj-45 cable from the base unit. Turn yoke base over on its top and remove the 9 Philips head screws (4 on each edge). Turn yoke back over and remove the top of case The front 2 screws may not have fallen out so if needed poke them out or they may interfere when removing the front switch plate. Remove the four screws holding the LED panel and then move the LED panel out of the way. Being careful not to damage the wires or connectors, disconnect the connector going to the switch array on one side and the ignition switch on the other side. Now we get to the scary part. The switch panel can be moved away from the yoke body and slid up the yoke shaft without further disassembly. If you are uncomfortable with this step stop now. The bottom of the front panel has a groove that fits onto the bottom plate of the case. I was able to tip the top of the front panel away from the case. It is a bit of a tight fit but going slow and being careful, I was able to pull the panel up the yoke shaft and away from the case. This first photo shows the location of the female rj-45 connector circuit board. Remove the 2 screws holding the board. Then trace back the cable from the board to the main board and carefully unplug the cable connector from the main board. Now you can slide the cable toward the front of the case to provide slack for the next step. Board After slackening the cable, you can wiggle the connector and board out of the case being careful not to damage the cable and now turn the board over. The next photo shows the bottom of the ethernet board after the repair. Before the repair most of the solder joints were shallow and cracked all the way around. After I wetted the joints with lead solder, I sucked them clean the applied a heavier than normal amount of lead solder to strengthen the connections. Only the 8 pins of the rj-45 plug should need servicing. Now, just reverse the steps and reassemble your repaired yoke Here is a photo of the tip I used in my Hakko soldering iron. The solder connections were very small.

Thanks, looks really good. Now running my digital feet over to Flightsim.to!