Additives or alternative fluids don 't usually help temps, and can cause pump clogging/tube discoloration. They're not generally recommended. Distilled water with biocide or silver coil is best.

]

 

Have you ever messed around with things like Redline/ Water Wetter, etc? I know a guy that did and his temps were about the same.

 

Yes, I did at one point. Actually with the same system I have now, I used a blue additive to make the water shine blue under UV light. It looked cool but after a while it gets boring, my pipes got colored etc. Nothing clogged, but couple of months later I decided to clean it, put clean distilled water and be done with it. I since then have blue pipes, no additives, and no light, since I often do game in dark room or listen to music, then I don't want lit up computer, besides, it's hidden under the desk, I barely really see it.

I have a Corsair H100 and love it! No maintenance and completely reliable so far. If you are going with IB and want to overclock to 4.5-4.6Ghz, then as long as you use a top of the line TIM such as Coollaboratory's Liquid Metal Ultra, you will probably be able to get the job done with just a good air cooling solution. If you want to venture into the 4.8+ Ghz range, then the H100 is a good solution that won't break the bank.

 

How is the noise rating for the H100 compared to a high end air-based cooling solution?

 

Also, for better than 'stock' H100 cooling, would it be possible to submerge the radiator in a pan of water for better heat transfer, dropping in a few ice cubes if you dare?!

 

Noel

Noel, it's quite hard to judge that. H100 cools the CPU, high-end system cools CPU+GPU+HDD... whatever you want. How can you compare those two really? The only real comparison is measuring full system with H100 and other normal components vs mine for instance on a full load. There is no sense measuring in idle.

 

I can only tell you that going from non-watercooled system to fully watercooled system in 2006 lowered my system noise considerably. It would be interesting how it is today, in 2012...

 

Also, for better than 'stock' H100 cooling, would it be possible to submerge the radiator in a pan of water for better heat transfer, dropping in a few ice cubes if you dare?!

 

If:

 

1) radiator must be non-corrosive

2) no fan

 

Sure, why not, for a test. The problem is water would be heating waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay-way-way too fast. You would have to throw in ice cubes one after another, at the same time pumping the water out.

But a funny idea :)

 

Same thing like when I put my 3x3 120mm radi out of the window into -10c degrees winter air. My CPU was running so cold it was merely awesome.

Same thing like when I put my 3x3 120mm radi out of the window into -10c degrees winter air. My CPU was running so cold it was merely awesome.

 

The other very simple thing to do is pick up a low cost small (student sized) refrigerator. Then just keep the radiator inside of the fridge. Or, if it's not so cold condensation would be a problem, in the little fridge's freezer compartment.

 

I think my other 'funny' solution really is pretty good in its own right as it cools not only the CPU very well, but RAM, HDD's, mainboard & memory, not to mention the entire room! http://forum.avsim.n...4/#entry2381499

 

No braggin' rights for decibel level though ;o) Bring in the headset!

Even in the fridge itself, condensation would be a problem. Fridges are not made to work that way. There is a permanent heating inside, which would cause icing even inside the fridge, and condensation on the radiator.

 

Oh yeah, I saw that already :)

 

For me: silent and cool is a must. This is why I have a custom watercooling system.

Plenty of reviews comparing liquid and air here for example:

 

http://www.xbitlabs....20_6.html#sect0

 

http://www.xbitlabs....70_5.html#sect0

Hi

I Think for a month ago a tryed to explain OC and differnt coolingsystems Read it its only basic.

 

http://forum.avsim.net/topic/379593-oc-and-cpu-cooling/

 

hasse