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shally17

How much better is liquid cooling?

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Hello All,

 

I have never used liquid cooling before. Please excuse my ignorance but is it much better than a top shelf radiator with push-pull fans? I am looking at overclocking an IvyB to 4.5-4.6 GHz.

 

Secondly, since my last rebuild 3 years ago, there seems to be a new kid on the block in terms of mobos. I have never heard of AS Rock before. How do they compare with the likes of ASUS for a Z77 based board?

 

Finally is there much difference in terms of performance in FSX between the i5 3570K and the i7 3770K. Both are rated at 3.4 GHz. With my limited knowledge, I don't even know the difference between i5 and i7.

 

Thanks,

Steve.

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I have tried liquid cooling on a previous build and ended up with nothing but problems, broken pump, water spill, etc. The newer fully enclosed units are a bit safer I guess but there is no need to go with liquid cooling on SB chips....you will have to do some research on whether this is the case for IB chips. Personally I would save yourself a few bucks and get a top of the line cooling fan. Results will be the same and you don't have to worry about water leaks. I have the Nochua NH-D14.

 

As for ASRock, I have the Z68 board and have been very happy with it. Please note that ASRock is a division of ASUS.

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I have a Corsair H100 and love it! No maintenance and completely reliable so far. If you are going with IB and want to overclock to 4.5-4.6Ghz, then as long as you use a top of the line TIM such as Coollaboratory's Liquid Metal Ultra, you will probably be able to get the job done with just a good air cooling solution. If you want to venture into the 4.8+ Ghz range, then the H100 is a good solution that won't break the bank.

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I have a Corsair H100 and love it! No maintenance and completely reliable so far. If you are going with IB and want to overclock to 4.5-4.6Ghz, then as long as you use a top of the line TIM such as Coollaboratory's Liquid Metal Ultra, you will probably be able to get the job done with just a good air cooling solution. If you want to venture into the 4.8+ Ghz range, then the H100 is a good solution that won't break the bank.

 

I also have an H100 and speaking from experience of OC'ing with older i7s and new ones, I would strongly recommend getting a watercooling kit like the H100.

 

If you don't want to break the bank but still want premium cooling performance, I'd go for a Corsair H60.

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I have a Corsair H100 and love it! No maintenance and completely reliable so far. If you are going with IB and want to overclock to 4.5-4.6Ghz, then as long as you use a top of the line TIM such as Coollaboratory's Liquid Metal Ultra, you will probably be able to get the job done with just a good air cooling solution. If you want to venture into the 4.8+ Ghz range, then the H100 is a good solution that won't break the bank.

I also have an H100 and speaking from experience of OC'ing with older i7s and new ones, I would strongly recommend getting a watercooling kit like the H100.

 

If you don't want to break the bank but still want premium cooling performance, I'd go for a Corsair H60.

 

That's the trend these days. And it works great! Hard core liquid guys will talk smack (those nerdz), but the Corsair units are excellent.

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Thank-you all for the replies. When you suggest using Coollaboratory's Liquid Metal Ultra, areyou talking about a standard application on top of the CPU or do you mean opening it up?

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Thank-you all for the replies. When you suggest using Coollaboratory's Liquid Metal Ultra, areyou talking about a standard application on top of the CPU or do you mean opening it up?

 

If it's an i7 and you want maximum cooling, OC overhead and performance, you have to de-lid and use Liquid Metal Ultra on both the die and IHS.

 

- Grammar *censored*, this was sent from my phone.

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That's the trend these days. And it works great! Hard core liquid guys will talk smack (those nerdz), but the Corsair units are excellent.

 

Having migrated from an H100 to a custom water cooling loop in my system, I can speak from experience. There is a measurable temperature difference here, but it's not like night and day as is the case when replacing the stock Intel TIM with a liquid metal TIM. The best thing you can do if you plan to OC Ivy Bridge is replace that stock garbage TIM with some liquid metal product like Coollaboratory Liquid Metal Pro or Ultra (Pro slightly better results, Ultra easier to use).

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Hi Efrain,

I am a complete novice regaing the internal workings of a CPU. I assume that the die is what you find under the lid but what is the IHS?

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Hi Efrain,

I am a complete novice regaing the internal workings of a CPU. I assume that the die is what you find under the lid but what is the IHS?

 

Yup, the die is under the lid (IHS). IHS stands for Integrated HeatSink.

 

- Grammar *censored*, this was sent from my phone.

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Integrated Heat Spreader !!! :rolleyes:

 

If you are looking for good kit to transition yourself to liquid cooling, I'd also suggest the Corsair H100. Even a caveman like me can install it.

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Hello All,

 

I have never used liquid cooling before. Please excuse my ignorance but is it much better than a top shelf radiator with push-pull fans? I am looking at overclocking an IvyB to 4.5-4.6 GHz.

 

Secondly, since my last rebuild 3 years ago, there seems to be a new kid on the block in terms of mobos. I have never heard of AS Rock before. How do they compare with the likes of ASUS for a Z77 based board?

 

Finally is there much difference in terms of performance in FSX between the i5 3570K and the i7 3770K. Both are rated at 3.4 GHz. With my limited knowledge, I don't even know the difference between i5 and i7.

 

Thanks,

Steve.

 

Can't recall where I read the comparison, but I know the take home message was that the H100 was outperformed by an air cooler, albeit a big one! Noctua maybe?

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Hard core liquid guys will talk smack (those nerdz)

 

Ah, you got me! Real liquid cooling since 2006 and going strong. No spills, no real broken parts (oh yes, one plastic thingy broke off that holds the reservoir...), cooling CPU, GPU, HDD, extremely silent (not only the cooling but the whole computer), and I would never ever again exchange it for anything else. And the best thing, real easy and clean to maintain - hardly any dust in the computer, I have to vacuum inside once a year, water exchange once-twice a year, no additives in the water, using exclusively destilled water. While H100 is cool solution for a single CPU cooler (albeit still warmer CPU than Swiftech X20 - 82 vs 74, which is a lot when overclocking), I can expand my watercooling to virtually any hot part of the computer, except PSU I think... And btw. my fans on the radi are on low :P My 2c.

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Ah, you got me! Real liquid cooling since 2006 and going strong. No spills, no real broken parts (oh yes, one plastic thingy broke off that holds the reservoir...), cooling CPU, GPU, HDD, extremely silent (not only the cooling but the whole computer), and I would never ever again exchange it for anything else. And the best thing, real easy and clean to maintain - hardly any dust in the computer, I have to vacuum inside once a year, water exchange once-twice a year, no additives in the water, using exclusively destilled water. While H100 is cool solution for a single CPU cooler (albeit still warmer CPU than Swiftech X20 - 82 vs 74, which is a lot when overclocking), I can expand my watercooling to virtually any hot part of the computer, except PSU I think... And btw. my fans on the radi are on low :P My 2c.

 

Even though I only have the H100, I could never go back to the days of noisy fans on huge heat sinks. I have considered even getting one of the swiftech pump/waterblocks and cooling my GPU and CPU with a 3x120 rad.

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Ah, you got me! Real liquid cooling since 2006 and going strong. No spills, no real broken parts (oh yes, one plastic thingy broke off that holds the reservoir...), cooling CPU, GPU, HDD, extremely silent (not only the cooling but the whole computer), and I would never ever again exchange it for anything else. And the best thing, real easy and clean to maintain - hardly any dust in the computer, I have to vacuum inside once a year, water exchange once-twice a year, no additives in the water, using exclusively destilled water. While H100 is cool solution for a single CPU cooler (albeit still warmer CPU than Swiftech X20 - 82 vs 74, which is a lot when overclocking), I can expand my watercooling to virtually any hot part of the computer, except PSU I think... And btw. my fans on the radi are on low :P My 2c.

 

http://www.performan...ex&cPath=59_319 :p0303:

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Ah, you got me! Real liquid cooling since 2006 and going strong. No spills, no real broken parts (oh yes, one plastic thingy broke off that holds the reservoir...), cooling CPU, GPU, HDD, extremely silent (not only the cooling but the whole computer), and I would never ever again exchange it for anything else. And the best thing, real easy and clean to maintain - hardly any dust in the computer, I have to vacuum inside once a year, water exchange once-twice a year, no additives in the water, using exclusively destilled water. While H100 is cool solution for a single CPU cooler (albeit still warmer CPU than Swiftech X20 - 82 vs 74, which is a lot when overclocking), I can expand my watercooling to virtually any hot part of the computer, except PSU I think... And btw. my fans on the radi are on low :P My 2c.

 

Well come on to the states and set me a loop up! You make it seem simpler than what I have in mind. I see stories of unknown algae regardless of additives. Leaks popping up while users are on vacation or have let their guard down. Etc, etc. I'm just afraid my patience would be tested too much. Especially considering I'm about as much a neat freak as you seem to be. ^_^

 

My fans are always mid-voltage. -_- I would like a little less noise, but I think I've done pretty good with my little mods.

 

 

 

smh Money%20Eyes.gif

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Well come on to the states and set me a loop up! You make it seem simpler than what I have in mind. I see stories of unknown algae regardless of additives. Leaks popping up while users are on vacation or have let their guard down. Etc, etc. I'm just afraid my patience would be tested too much. Especially considering I'm about as much a neat freak as you seem to be. ^_^

 

My fans are always mid-voltage. -_- I would like a little less noise, but I think I've done pretty good with my little mods.

 

Hahaha, next time I plan a trip to States, I'll make sure I travel through North Carolina LOL :lol:

 

I heard the stories too, through I really wonder where they are coming from. I don't see how I could ever have a leak with my connectors. The only thing you must be careful about is correct planing of the plumbing, not too sharp angles, and least number of connectors possible (I have two per device and two separators to separate the radi for cleaning, because that's the only part that gets dirty as it is on the outside and has fans, it definitely needs twice a year cleaning, but it's really not a big fuss, I don't even have to let the water out).

 

Some details for you if you ever decide to venture:

I have these connectors, both 90degree and straight, depending on placement:

http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p289_Screw-connector-angle-external-thread-G1-4--on-10-8-rotatable.html

Something like this tubing, nothing super-expensive:

http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p204_Tubing-10-8-PUR-transparent-blau-UV-active.html

I have no springs to prevent tube-kink or any other helper things - I just made sure that I have no sharp angles.

 

And it absolutely doesn't matter which cooler you are using, as the connectors are compatible as far as I saw with any device, just gotta be careful about the size. Some prefer big tubes, I don't know if that might be the reason for leaks, I opted for the 10/8 tubes, as back in 2006 that was a standard.

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Hahaha, next time I plan a trip to States, I'll make sure I travel through North Carolina LOL :lol:

 

I heard the stories too, through I really wonder where they are coming from. I don't see how I could ever have a leak with my connectors. The only thing you must be careful about is correct planing of the plumbing, not too sharp angles, and least number of connectors possible (I have two per device and two separators to separate the radi for cleaning, because that's the only part that gets dirty as it is on the outside and has fans, it definitely needs twice a year cleaning, but it's really not a big fuss, I don't even have to let the water out).

 

Some details for you if you ever decide to venture:

I have these connectors, both 90degree and straight, depending on placement:

http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p289_Screw-connector-angle-external-thread-G1-4--on-10-8-rotatable.html

Something like this tubing, nothing super-expensive:

http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p204_Tubing-10-8-PUR-transparent-blau-UV-active.html

I have no springs to prevent tube-kink or any other helper things - I just made sure that I have no sharp angles.

 

And it absolutely doesn't matter which cooler you are using, as the connectors are compatible as far as I saw with any device, just gotta be careful about the size. Some prefer big tubes, I don't know if that might be the reason for leaks, I opted for the 10/8 tubes, as back in 2006 that was a standard.

 

Stop by Virginia while you are at NC! Hahahaha :-)

 

- Grammar *censored*, this was sent from my phone.

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IMO, I think it's wrong to see a H100 as a water based system. You should see a water based system as what it is. It is a system that requires maintenance, despite what Word Not Allowed says(no offense Word Not Allowed:)) You should do some tweaking and maintenance once a year, at least. Preferably more often o/c.

 

Unless you have very special needs, I don't see any reason to get a water based cooling system on IB.

 

But, if you have the money and interest, I'll say go for it.

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IMO, I think it's wrong to see a H100 as a water based system. You should see a water based system as what it is. It is a system that requires maintenance, despite what Word Not Allowed says(no offense Word Not Allowed:)) You should do some tweaking and maintenance once a year, at least. Preferably more often o/c.

 

Unless you have very special needs, I don't see any reason to get a water based cooling system on IB.

 

But, if you have the money and interest, I'll say go for it.

 

Are you being serious? Your two observations are so full of fail, that I don't know where to begin.

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Are you being serious?

Yes, I am. Why do you think I'm not?

 

Are you being serious? Your two observations are so full of fail, that I don't know where to begin.

Don't edit your post, you should rather quote me, then I can see it. You should also come with some arguments, then I can see your point. I don't understand what you mean where I'm wrong.

 

Sorry for poor English btw.

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IMO, I think it's wrong to see a H100 as a water based system. You should see a water based system as what it is. It is a system that requires maintenance, despite what Word Not Allowed says(no offense Word Not Allowed:)) You should do some tweaking and maintenance once a year, at least. Preferably more often o/c.

 

Unless you have very special needs, I don't see any reason to get a water based cooling system on IB.

 

But, if you have the money and interest, I'll say go for it.

 

Ok, to say that the H100 should not be seen as a water based solution based on the fact it does not require maintenance is simply absurd. Now, if your argument was because they do not cool as much as other "high maintenance" water systems, maybe, then maybe, you might have a leg to stand on.

 

But even if that was the argument, the fact that something like the H100, which costs much less, requires no maintenance and performs very well, should definitely be considered a water cooling solution. I think the right term for the H100 would be to call it an entry-level water cooling system.

 

Then you said that unless you have very special needs, you shouldn't get a water cooling system for the IB. That my friend, applies to EVERY CPU being sold, not just IB. If one plans on running a cpu at stock speeds, any air cooling solution will suffice, no doubt.

 

Now with IB such as the 3770K, as we all know very well by now, does not have their IHS soldered to it's die and Intel used a crappy TIM too. So once you start OC it as it was meant to be (reason for the K designation), temps will skyrocket and a water based solution is definitely the right choice if you want to keep temps down and get the most out of your OC endeavour.

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