On 7/24/2020 at 4:10 PM, RamonB said:

One last thing: Check that both the PUMP and the FANS are working in the Cooler.

Thanks for this.  It’s my first time with an AIO cooler, how would I check that the pump is working?  Fans are working.

Edited July 27, 20205 yr by regis9

On 7/24/2020 at 3:56 PM, RamonB said:

If not possible then check all screws (PSU, MB, etc.)

Is there something other than tightness I should be checking for?

5 minutes ago, regis9 said:

Thanks for this.  It’s my first time with an AIO cooler, how would I check that the pump is working?  Fans are working.

Does your AIO cooler have a USB connector and software to test the Pump (RPM) and coolant temperature?
If it doesn't then other than "feeling" the temperature on the hoses and listening to the PUMP, I don't know another method.
When my Intel Water Cooler failed the pump made "noise", but both hoses got pretty hot within a few seconds after powering up the PC, and the fans were not running at max.

 

Just now, regis9 said:

Is there something other than tightness I should be checking for?

Check for scrapped surfaces, or anything that might cause a faulty ground or spike.

So a little bit of progress?  I tried removing the battery and also tipped my case over in case there was something loose in there and a small screw fell out.  Now at least when I turn on the power on the back panel the computer does not start on it’s own, I have to press the power button on the front (or on the motherboard) to  get it to start.  Bad news is that it still does the same thing after it starts turning on and off until I kill the power through the rear switch.  I’m not sure whether it was the screw or taking the battery out that resulted in the change.  Maybe this points there actually being two separate issues at play, one resolved and one still happening?

I also noticed that the CPU status light is illuminated red on the motherboard meaning there is some issue with the CPU...that’s telling me I probably want to reseat the CPU?

I also noticed that each time it restarts it switches from the main bios to the backup bios based on motherboard indicator lights.  Not sure if that’s normal behaviour or if that’s another clue?

Edited July 27, 20205 yr by regis9

I tried reseating the cpu and reinstalling the cooler plus removing the replacing the cpu power connectors but it had no positive impact.

From what I can tell the cooler pump is working.  It lights up and the hoses do feel cool after the computer is “running” for a short period of time.

Edited July 27, 20205 yr by regis9

Did you use the same case for a previous build or is it brand new? Just wondering if used before if the standoffs maybe got out of position or something was left over from previous build and is now shorting the new board somehow.

Could there be anywhere else metal that is touching something it shouldn't? I have heard of where an I/O shield metal prong had gotten stuck into a USB or rear port and this caused the board to short.

have you test without gpu , use the igp for testing.

 

2 hours ago, Tektolnes said:

Did you use the same case for a previous build or is it brand new?

New case, and the standoffs are built into the case.

2 hours ago, Tektolnes said:

Could there be anywhere else metal that is touching something it shouldn't?

I haven’t been able to find anything but will look again and will probably end up taking the MB out of the case and testing it that way to be sure.

1 hour ago, westman said:

have you test without gpu

yes this latest round of testing was with no GPU, I put mine back in my old computer so I still have a working one while I figure the new one out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKbJVzgC4ow&t=580s

Strange things can happen that you would never believe. 

 

I cringed when he said it’s best to buy from a single retailer...I bought from three for my current build.  Good advice, but in my case I had to go to three to get what I needed.

As he states, my issue is lack of spare parts to test with.  My last thing to try at home is to take everything out of the case as was suggested up thread.  If that doesn’t work there is a brick and mortar store (Canada Computers - where I bought the cpu) that does service...I’ll call them as I expect they would have the spares to diagnose what the issue is then I can find out what part needs an RMA.

Just an update for those of you following from home.  After some back and forth with Gigabyte and some more testing (including putting everything together outside the case) they've told me to return the motherboard, which for me means sending it back to Amazon for a replacement since I bought it less than 30 days ago.  Hopefully that will do the trick!

Thanks for the Update.
Good luck.

I had a similar issue a while back, and it was caused by a short between something on the back of the motherboard (near the CPU) to the motherboard tray it was mounted on in the case.

In troubleshooting, the system booted fine with the mobo outside the case laid out on the table.  Inside the case, it went back to instantly shutting itself off due to the ground fault protection circuit in the PSU.

The solution was to use an old credit card as a nonconductive shim between the back of the mobo and the tray at the edge of the square hole in the motherboard around the CPU.

I got my replacement motherboard from Amazon today and went about assembling it outside the case.  Started with just the CPU/cooler and PSU, it started up and gave me the error code for no RAM.  Perfect, previously I hadn't even gotten to the point of generating any error codes.  I plugged in the ram and it started up fine again.  Perfect!  Full of optimism, I went about installing the motherboard into my case.  Before I did, I looked all through the case for any debris etc.  I install the cooler again, mount the radiator and fans, go to flick on the power switch on the back and the computer comes to life without me pressing the power button on the motherboard, ie right back to where I was at the beginning of this whole debacle.  

So it seems my case is doing something, to the motherboard.  I can't for the life of me figure out what the issue is as the standoffs come pre-installed, I can't see anything else that would be causing a problem and coming into contact with the motherboard.  To your example Bob, I check and the case is completely open around the CPU so nothing touching there.  And frankly, their both built to an ATX standard so what could the problem possibly be?  Worst of all, based on past experience I'm guessing I've just fried another motherboard.  I haven't tried taking the motherboard out again to see if the issue continues as it did before because frankly if I spent anymore time with that computer tonight I'm going to end up throwing it across the room.  Amazon took the return no questions asked last time, I can't imagine they would be so eager to take a return on the same piece of technology twice.

Man this is the computer build from hell.

Just tried removing the motherboard from the case and testing it.  It continues to start and stop start and stop as it did at the very beginning of this issue.  Looks like I'm down another motherboard?  Unbelievable.  How on earth could a case that is supposedly compatible with a motherboard fry it the first time it's powered up?  Here are two  pictures of the empty case...I'd gladly welcome any thoughts on what might be out of place.  All I see are standoffs, and looking at the back of the motherboard there's nothing standing proud from the motherboard on the bottom.  Most of the motherboard bottom even has a plastic protective cover on it.