From Noctua...

 

 

 

Is the high weight dangerous for the CPU or socket?
No. Noctua coolers possess an extremely reliable SecuFirm™ mounting system. Even transporting the pc with the cooler installed is entirely safe. Thanks to the screw connection with the backplate on the rear side of the motherboard, the exceedance of the weight recommendations by Intel and AMD common among high-end coolers is completely unobjectionable.

 

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=faqs&step=2&products_id=34&lng=en#1

 

 

After personal experience with the D14, lugging it around the house, moving house with the PC in the back of the car etc, etc, I would say Noctua are correct.

...

 

So, can you point me in the direction, of any report, anywhere on the internet of a D14 damaging a motherboard?

 

...

 

I find it hard to believe, that if such a thing was an issue, that there would be not even one report of such.

 

...

 

http://forums.anandtech.com/archive/index.php/t-2079306.html

It's a simple matter of physics. If you can achieve efficient, high performance cooling without hanging a 2-pound dumbbell off of your motherboard, why take the chance?

 

And if you're not ordering it as part of a prebuilt system, you should be more concerned, if anything. After all, the warranty on the NH-D14 isn't going to cover damage to your other components (at least, I doubt it). At least with a prebuilt system, the builder's warranty (and rules under the Article 2 of the Uniform Commercial Code in the U.S.) will cover you for any shipping damage.

 

Motherboard flex: see the time lapsed photo at post 27

 

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1663541&page=2

 

See post #2126:

 

http://www.overclock.net/t/628569/official-noctua-nh-d14-club/2120

 

Don't get me wrong. I have the D14 on my old PC. I like it. I will just never do it again with the closed loop options available.

It's a simple matter of physics. If you can achieve efficient, high performance cooling without hanging a 2-pound dumbbell off of your motherboard, why take the chance?

 

You take the chance because the risks are minimal if any. I could also say.... "why use water cooling and risk leaks, thus component damage when you can use an air cooler with zero chance of leaks." I wouldn't say that of course because leaks are rare, just as motherboard damage is rare, if it happens at all.

 

In regard to your first link. Like the other poster said... I too have not seen any appreciable sagging.

 

Where you might be confused is in terms of the mechanics. Don't forget, the cooler is BOLTED securely to the back plate. The motherboard is sandwiched in-between.

 

The motherboard is then screwed firmly to the motherboard tray.

 

For enough distortion of the motherboard to occur, in order to cause damage, the motherboard would need to be loose, not screwed firmly to the motherboard tray.

 

You would be surprised how much flex is permitted for circuit boards. Years ago, especially in the telecommunications industry, before components became miniaturised, circuit boards had to cope with very heavy weights.

 

Read the quote from Noctua. Noctua would not make such a claim without any basis.

 

I haven't had chance to read your links thoroughly, so I apologise if any evidence is there. But you still haven't shown me any evidence on the internet of a motherboard being damaged, and thus not functional, as a result of an NH-D14

 

 

Have you ever heard of NH-D14 bending the motherboard so hard as your top PCI-E won't work (speaker gives 1 long beep and 2 shorts) with nvidia cards, and run at 8x with AMD cards and bottom slot work with either one at 8X.

 

As far as I could tell, with a cursory glance, the poster was asking if such a thing was feasible. He had an issue and was hypothesising.

 

I have no doubt that wasn't his issue. If it was, then there was something seriously stupid going on with his attempts to mount the cooler.

 

 

You take the chance because the risks are minimal if any. I could also say.... "why use water cooling and risk leaks, thus component damage when you can use an air cooler with zero chance of leaks." I wouldn't say that of course because leaks are rare, just as motherboard damage is rare, if it happens at all.

 

Is there not a risk of accidentally damage something while mounting the very heavy and big noctua ? I for example found it awkward to mount my current big hyper 212+ especially attaching the fans on it.

 

 

As I say, as a gadget fanatic I have been tempted, but given the examples of leaks, and the excellent performance form the Noctua, I can't justify it.

 

Martin, I'm picking up pricey parts for this build and there is no way I can accept water leaks as even a 5% chance option.  I would MUCH RATHER accept a few less Ghz than risk this.  Even so, I'm not intrigued by a cooling solution that requires one to take the cooling fins off of expensive ram modules--I'm aiming for Dominator Platinum 2400.  What I've done for the past 5 years is use a stock HSF and then keep the case cover open and I have a thru-the-wall A/C unit that blows 40 degree air directly into the open box via cowling from the A/C output sending the bulk of it into the HSF's intake via a 4" flex hose, and another hose shoots air over the GPU, RAM, main board.  It's worked great but is pretty white-noisy, but I've gotten used to it and use headphones on occasion.  Even so, I'd like to not have to use this method very often.  I'd like to get a sense of how often leaks happen in the different cooler options.    If I could be assured of leaks being ultra rare and be assured of maintenance-free, I'd probably opt for it just to reduct the obstructions involved in the big air coolers.

I have been water cooling for years and have had no problems. In my opinion the only part on a PC the requires a waterblock is the CPU. For best results an open loop with a big resevior and big radiator is the way to go. I doubt if there is much difference between top shelf air coolers and closed loop water coolers. I use a 1000watt Koolance drop in system. Its great. Still I think if you can keep you system somewhere were the ambient air tempreture is low that is the best solution of all. regardless of the type of cooling solution you use ambient air temp will dictate how low you can get your CPU temp without insulating. Also don't forget to de-lid 3rd gen intel CPU's. That will make a huge difference.

Is there not a risk of accidentally damage something while mounting the very heavy and big noctua ? I for example found it awkward to mount my current big hyper 212+ especially attaching the fans on it.

 

Well, I suppose when mounting any cooler it's possible to do something a bit daft. But no, not really, if you follow the instructions provided by Noctua, it's a relatively easy exercise to install the D14. I've installed it on two builds now, so have a number of years experience with the cooler. I've not come across any issues at all. No issues for me mounting, and no issues in use. We are all different I suppose though, we all have varying degrees of competence with such things. You mentioned the fans... the Noctua spring clip that attaches them to the cooler is quite a simple but effective affair. You shouldn't really have any issues if you decide the NH-D14 is for you.

 

If you have a small case manoeuvring room could be an issue. In fact the D14 won't fit ion all cases. Dimensions are on the Noctua site.

Martin, I'm picking up pricey parts for this build and there is no way I can accept water leaks as even a 5% chance option.  I would MUCH RATHER accept a few less Ghz than risk this.  Even so, I'm not intrigued by a cooling solution that requires one to take the cooling fins off of expensive ram modules--I'm aiming for Dominator Platinum 2400.  What I've done for the past 5 years is use a stock HSF and then keep the case cover open and I have a thru-the-wall A/C unit that blows 40 degree air directly into the open box via cowling from the A/C output sending the bulk of it into the HSF's intake via a 4" flex hose, and another hose shoots air over the GPU, RAM, main board.  It's worked great but is pretty white-noisy, but I've gotten used to it and use headphones on occasion.  Even so, I'd like to not have to use this method very often.  I'd like to get a sense of how often leaks happen in the different cooler options.    If I could be assured of leaks being ultra rare and be assured of maintenance-free, I'd probably opt for it just to reduct the obstructions involved in the big air coolers.

 

I think leaks are quite rare. Plenty of reports of leaks on the net of course. As you would expect, given that it's those with issues that tend to post. And I have heard of customers having a bit of a hassle trying to get compensation from cooler manufacturers for damaged motherboards and graphics cards.

 

Regarding the D14 and RAM clearance: Yes, this can be a drawback with the D14. Although there are solutions.

 

It's possible to simply mount the rear 120mm fan slightly off centre, to accommodate taller RAM. This doesn't really affect cooling much to be honest, and does allow you to install some of the taller RAM.

 

In my opinion, it's important to remember that tall RAM heat sinks are mostly a gimmick. They may look cool, but they aren't really required. RAM doesn't get hot enough to warrant such super tall heat sinks. And the centrally mounted 140mm fan with the D14 sends a considerable amount of air across the RAM anyway.

 

In my case, I went for Dominator GTX. They come with a small Allen key. [not sure what this tool is called in the US] So it's a simple matter to remove the small fins on the top of the RAM heat sinks. They are designed to be removed. So no scary mods or anything like that. Makes no difference to RAM cooling, but enables the modules to fit perfectly under the cooler.

 

The Platinum RAM you mention, I also  looked at. But as far as I could tell, the only plus for this RAM is the LED's. So bling really rather than functionality. So I came to the conclusion there was no point, even if they had fit under the D14.

 

You should also look at the Thermalright Silver Arrow Noel. I have heard that RAM clearance might be better. It's as good as the D14 I believe.

 

Regarding big air coolers blocking airflow. I've not found it to be an issue. I did experiment with the Noctua focused flow fans. The temps weren't much different, and the fact that they were both 120 fans, meant that I lost the overhang from the stock 140 fan, thus less MB cooling. I switched back to the fans that came with the D14 in the end, and found the increased airflow over the motherboard to be preferable. So no, I've not found any issues with the big cooler blocking airflow. I have an infrared thermometer, temps are all good, all components within specs. No issues with two builds after a good few years of use.

 

 

Sliding the rear fan up...

 

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=faqs&step=2&products_id=34&lng=en#13

I have been water cooling for years and have had no problems. In my opinion the only part on a PC the requires a waterblock is the CPU. For best results an open loop with a big resevior and big radiator is the way to go. I doubt if there is much difference between top shelf air coolers and closed loop water coolers. I use a 1000watt Koolance drop in system. Its great. Still I think if you can keep you system somewhere were the ambient air tempreture is low that is the best solution of all. regardless of the type of cooling solution you use ambient air temp will dictate how low you can get your CPU temp without insulating. Also don't forget to de-lid 3rd gen intel CPU's. That will make a huge difference.

 

I agree, if a proper installation job is done, water leaks are rare in regard to a full blown water cooling kit. It's also the best option in terms of cooling. The question for me though, is how much cooling do I need? And the answer to that question, is enough to keep my overclocked CPU at a safe temperature. Air cooling achieves that for me. I have been tempted many times though, I must admit. We are all tech fans here, many of us with an urge to dive into a new project.

 

You are correct in regard to all-in-one water coolers. The difference between the D14 and the aforementioned, is one or two degrees. And when you consider fan noise, there is no difference. Many that own the Corsair coolers, or the Kraken, are forced to reduce fan RPM due to the noise, thus reducing cooling to a level that's below the NH-D14. From what I've read, the same applies to the new Coolermaster Eisberg, that too is damn noisy.

 

If I were going to consider all-in-one water coolers, then like Noel, I would need to be VERY confident that leaks were extremely unlikely. And that the manufacturer of said cooler would compensate me fully and without hassle, for component damage.

 

 

You should also look at the Thermalright Silver Arrow Noel. I have heard that RAM clearance might be better. It's as good as the D14 I believe.

 

Thanks Martin--I'll check out the other cooler you mention.

 

I think leaks are quite rare. Plenty of reports of leaks on the net of course. As you would expect, given that it's those with issues that tend to post.

 

I think that has to be the case w/ the most recent closed loop systems.  The manufacturer would have to be striving above all else to insure against this I would have to hope.  I am intrigued by the elegance of the small head on the CPU and plenty of unobstructed space for memory and so forth.  

 

Here's a link suggesting the Noctua D-14 does give some clearance over ram heat spreaders which you mentioned:

 

http://forums.anandtech.com/showpost.php?p=32414352&postcount=164

_{I also have used liquid coolers for years, both open and closed systems and I have NEVER had a leak. I had a Corsair pump fail but no leak. I also have a Noctua on a system with a 980X and have never had an issue with that. The DH14 is noisier than the Corsair or the Thermaltake .}

 

_{If you are trying to push the CPU to the bleeding edge, then go liquid - you might get a point or two higher clock. Main thing, IMHO, is to get a case big enough to install all the stuff and have some room to work. Personally, I like the HAF-942 but YMMV.}

 

_Vic

I'm sheepishly wading into this thread against my better judgement LOL!. There is a BIG misconception around that says that water cooling is always superior to air. This is true and false. Good air coolers are on par with closed loop budget water coolers like the Corsair H60/H80 series. Open custom built water coolers offer the best cooling short of an LN2 setup at some testing lab. I have 7 PC builds under my belt and I've used both water and air. Cooling with air involves more than just a good heatsink. Ambient temps inside the case have to be kept in check for air cooling to be effective. The number and location of case fans, cable routing, and ambient room temps all affect this. In short, aftermarket air cooling is perfectly adequate for a moderate overclock.

I think that has to be the case w/ the most recent closed loop systems.  The manufacturer would have to be striving above all else to insure against this I would have to hope.  I am intrigued by the elegance of the small head on the CPU and plenty of unobstructed space for memory and so forth.  

 

Here's a link suggesting the Noctua D-14 does give some clearance over ram heat spreaders which you mentioned:

 

http://forums.anandtech.com/showpost.php?p=32414352&postcount=164

 

Yes, my Dominator GTX's are still fairly tall, even with the fins removed, and they do fit. Not much room between the rear fan and modules I admit, but as I said, the rear fan can be mounted off-centre a tad if desired, without  severely impacting cooling.

 

I understand why you like the space provided by the H110, it is appealing. When I was considering an all-in-one cooler, I  considered fabricating a drip tray. So at least if it did leak, it wouldn't damage my expensive GTX580.

_{I also have used liquid coolers for years, both open and closed systems and I have NEVER had a leak. I had a Corsair pump fail but no leak. I also have a Noctua on a system with a 980X and have never had an issue with that. The DH14 is noisier than the Corsair or the Thermaltake .}

 

_{If you are trying to push the CPU to the bleeding edge, then go liquid - you might get a point or two higher clock. Main thing, IMHO, is to get a case big enough to install all the stuff and have some room to work. Personally, I like the HAF-942 but YMMV.}

 

_Vic

 

You say the Noctua is nosier than the Corsair or Thermaltake. I would say not, if you look at the other thread where we discuss this, I included a link that demonstrated unequivocally that the Noctua is equal to the H110 in terms of noise. I can barely hear mine at all. Case fans yes, Noctua no.

 

Are you sure you are talking about the NH-D14, and not a different Noctua?

 

Temps here...

 

http://www.guru3d.co..._review,13.html

 

Kraken X60 70 degrees

Corsair H110 72 degrees

NH-D14 72 degrees

 

Noise levels here...

 

http://www.guru3d.co..._review,11.html

 

There's literally ONE DBA between the H110 and NH-D14. Such a small difference shouldn't be audible to anyone.

 

The H100i is 5 DBA louder than the NH-D14.

 

I've no idea which Thermaltake you are referring to.

I'm sheepishly wading into this thread against my better judgement LOL!. There is a BIG misconception around that says that water cooling is always superior to air. This is true and false. Good air coolers are on par with closed loop budget water coolers like the Corsair H60/H80 series. Open custom built water coolers offer the best cooling short of an LN2 setup at some testing lab. I have 7 PC builds under my belt and I've used both water and air. Cooling with air involves more than just a good heatsink. Ambient temps inside the case have to be kept in check for air cooling to be effective. The number and location of case fans, cable routing, and ambient room temps all affect this. In short, aftermarket air cooling is perfectly adequate for a moderate overclock.

 

I agree with you entirely.