Sign in to follow this  
nudata

Motherboard For The Poor

Recommended Posts

Currently have a ASRock Z77. Windows 10 with August 31 update. I have had a few strange lockups and suspect the motherboard since it is several years old. The CPU is a i5-2500K 4.3ghz overclocked. 8gb DDR3 ram. Because I am not needing the very latest I want to stay with the i5-2500K. Price target less than $200. Looking for reliability and overclocking.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Help AVSIM continue to serve you!
Please donate today!

I used to use an Asus P8Z77-V-LX and it was a great over locker. Had an i5 3570k @ 4.8 ghz using the Asus overclock feature.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Basic maintainance first. Might be nothing wrong with the MB. Whats the CPU temp? Lockups along with a reduction in performance is a symptom of throttling, due to the proximity to TJ Max.

 

Lots of issues can cause your system to freeze, not just a defective board.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Will take a look at the Asus board-Thanks

 

CPU normally under 50% with my usual train simulator load. 4 core avg 35c.I do not have any grounds for suspicion since the evidence is slim. It is just the oldest element in the PC. CMOS battery is another possible item. I will get new battery first. Just seeing what might be the best board in the meantime.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First thing to check is... are you overclocking? If so, eliminate the overclock as a variable, reset the BIOS to optimised defaults. You may have had a stable overclock, but an overclock can become unstable over time.

 

4 core avg 35c.

 
 
No, that would be at idle. Load temps are important. Having said that if the idle is 35 it's probably okay at full load... but do check under load.
 
 
 

It is just the oldest element in the PC.

 
 
Doesn't mean that's definitely where the problem lies. Lockups can be caused by software, temps, graphics card, unstable overclock, etc etc. many things. It's a process of elimination. If you have spare components to swap out it makes fault diagnosis far easier.
 
 

CMOS battery is another possible item.

 
 
When the CMOS battery starts to fail, the first symptom is usually the windows clock that keeps reading the wrong time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now I am having trouble booting/restarting. Restart from Windows10 and fans start, LAN port lights on, but no restart. tried various things including clear ROM and onboard reset. Had to remove power then came up with the setup screen. There I found the SATA protocol was not IDE. Setting to that and it came up. All ok then slight screen flicker and my SSD "disappeared". Power off, setup, showed ACHI not IDE for disks. SATA to IDE and then ok. "Browser" load at occurrence. SSD is on ok right now.

 

New motherboard is next step. I could get a bios chip and a battery but financial stuff on PC. so reliability needed. Will get same one. Can't afford new Skylake CPU and the old i2550K gives me proper FPS with reasonable settings.

 

Thanks for help

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How old is your power supply? I was having a lot of strange lock ups as well (to the point where only a hard reset would work). Replaced my 7 year old power supply and all appears well (kinda to my chagrin, I was looking for an excuse to upgrade my cpu!)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sticking with the 2500k will severely limit your choice to older 1155 socket motherboards if you can find a decent stockist. My 4790k runs in 1150 socket board and in Aus decent boards are hard to buy. The current 6700k and 7700k due in Jan 2017 use the current 1151 socket.

 

Strongly recommend you try and minimise spending on your current system to second hand parts until you can invest in the Kaby Lake processors early next year along with a new motherboard and DDR4 ram.

 

Good luck.

 

Cheers,

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your right David. BUT - I found my problem. It was not the motherboard but an SSD. I was in the process fo trying to laod a program from it when the PC locked. I pulled the side panel off an unplugged the SSD since that was the target for getting the program and the PC began to work. I only had a train simulator on it so no great loss.

 

My performance with the i5-2500K is quite acceptable with 47% load on a flight simulator and 35% on the train simulator. A lot of the computational stuff is now on the video card GPU and that does go to 100% sometimes. Thus I may get a fatter video card before any CPU changes.Thanks and regards,

Dick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thermal paste.

 

I am not sure of the inference. However, the thermal paste is properly applied as a very thin film with the specific objective of filing microscopic voids that detract from the transfer of heat. I spread it with the edge of a credit card, the safest use of this item. At several seconds of 100% load the CPU temp max's at 62C. I am sure a strong stress program could get it to TJ. Currently ay 3.5ghz but ran for several months at 4.2ghz with no issues. The real advantage was not significant so leaving it stock.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

62C @ 4.2ghz is very good if you are using air cooling, with liquid cooling you could jack it up to @ least 4.6. I use to have an asus Rampage V  xtreme  but switched to X99 E WS as it is compatible with raid controllers and it has a lot more slots. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

62C @ 4.2ghz is very good if you are using air cooling, with liquid cooling you could jack it up to @ least 4.6. 

 

No! 62C at 4.2 is not at all very good if you are using air cooling.

 

I'm using an NH-D15S, 4.6 GHz, ultra quiet and max core temp on the hottest core, running Cinebench is  63 degrees, and that's with an ambient temp of 25C, so a delta temp of 38C. Running FSX, P3D or any game temp is lower.

 

And no again, to state "liquid cooling" as a generalised statement implies any water cooling would enable 4.6 OC. This is not the case, some water coolers are good, some are bad, some are very bad.

 

Too many people are of the opinion that if it isn't water it isn't up with the best. Not true! :smile: 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I5 2500K here since 2011 running at 4.7Ghz using a cheap Corsair A50 air cooler.

There is absolutely no need for AIO water coolers, you just need to be lucky with the chip you buy.

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well said Glynn. I'd go further and say that the vast majority overclocking their CPU's don't NEED an AIO. If they favour the aesthetics yes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For me the water cooler is just a means to remove excess heat from the case since the GPU draws it's air from within the case and I don't want a bunch of noisy fans to ventilate the case.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For me the water cooler is just a means to remove excess heat from the case since the GPU draws it's air from within the case and I don't want a bunch of noisy fans to ventilate the case.

Depends how your CPU AIO cooler is orientated. If it's set up to draw cool air in, through the rad, it then ends up in the case. So all that warm rad air inside your case, no different to an air cooler. Incidentally, this is how Corsair and most AIO cooler manufacturers suggest mounting it, for lowest CPU temp.

 

On the other hand, if the AIO cooler it set up to draw air into the rad from inside the case, then yes it's exhausting that heat. However... it's also cooling the rad and thus the CPU with warm case air, thus compromising CPU cooling. In other words, all that graphics card, VRM and PSU heat is attempting to cool your rad. Thus higher CPU temp.

 

Any kind of cooling is always a compromise.

 

Case fans aren't an issue. I have no less than 5 120 fans cooling my Lian Li X510. They never have to run at full whack, at low loads they barely spin, and in the sim or games just above half speed. It would on'y be during a heavy stress test that I have them configured to run at higher RPM. Quietest system I've ever owned... and yes, without an AIO water cooler and with the NH-D15S.

Nobody NEEDS a bunch of noisy case fans. Almost all of us over cool our PC's. My old, overclocked 3770K system had just TWO 120mm case fans. Cool enough and stable. With an NH-D14 air cooler!

 

Edit: Forgot to mention... yes, an air cooler like the D15, does indeed increase enclosure temp to a degree, but not as much as you think. The D15 is a matter of an inch or so away from the rear case fan. The cooler fan/fans line up with the rear case fan. The majority of the warm cooler air is immediately vented by the rear fan. If I measure the temperature of the air venting from my rear enclosure fan, it's evident that the majority of the CPU heat is vented.

 

The D14/15/15S also has an oversized 150mm fan, designed to blow cool air across the motherboard for VRM cooling.

 

I'm babbling on a bit too much, but something else to consider... re graphics card cooling. If you have a reference design, or what's now referred to as a founders edition, then the card will vent most of the heat outside the case. On the other hand if you have a non-reference design, most of the heat ends up in the case anyway, with very little vented. Thus, with a non reference design the region around the card is very warm, with the card often ingesting it's own warm air anyway. So your concerns re air coolers warming the inside of the case and being ingested by the graphics card cooler are mute.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now I am having trouble booting/restarting. Restart from Windows10 and fans start, LAN port lights on, but no restart. tried various things including clear ROM and onboard reset. Had to remove power then came up with the setup screen. There I found the SATA protocol was not IDE. Setting to that and it came up. All ok then slight screen flicker and my SSD "disappeared". Power off, setup, showed ACHI not IDE for disks. SATA to IDE and then ok. "Browser" load at occurrence. SSD is on ok right now.

 

New motherboard is next step. I could get a bios chip and a battery but financial stuff on PC. so reliability needed. Will get same one. Can't afford new Skylake CPU and the old i2550K gives me proper FPS with reasonable settings.

 

Thanks for help

 

Did you install Windows with the mobo set to IDE? Because it looks to me like that's what causing your headaches. If that's the case you can fix the problem with this, and then you should be able to use your SSD at it's full capabilities

 

http://www.everything-microsoft.com/2010/05/25/how-to-enable-ahci-in-windows-7/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good suggestion from Dazz.

 

Not sure about AS Rock boards, but my Asus Z170 BIOS set AHCI automatically.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it's a Samsung drive then Magician software will display if it's set to AHCI. If not, look in Device Manager.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this