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No more flight sim for a while

Featured Replies

Booted up my PC to an error message 

https://neosmart.net/wiki/reboot-and-select-proper-boot-device/

Boot order in the BIOS is correct

I have removed and unplugged all USB devices still doesn’t boot

I have taken my SSD out the cage unplugged it and reseated still doesn’t boot.

Think I need a new HD and reinstall of windows - gutted.

 

Thomas Derbyshire

If possible I would try plugging the drive into another computer to see what happens.

We are all connected..... To each other, biologically...... To the Earth, chemically...... To the rest of the Universe atomically.
 
Devons rig
Intel Core i5 13600K @ 5.1GHz / G.SKILL Trident Z5 RGB Series Ram 64GB / GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 4070 Ti GAMING OC 12G Graphics Card / Sound Blaster Z / Meta Quest 2 VR Headset / Klipsch® Promedia 2.1 Computer Speakers / ASUS ROG SWIFT PG279Q ‑ 27" IPS LED Monitor ‑ QHD / 1x Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500GB / 2x Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB /  1x Samsung - 970 EVO Plus 2TB NVMe /  1x Samsung 980 NVMe 1TB / 2 other regular hd's with up to 10 terabyte capacity / Windows 11 Pro 64-bit / Gigabyte Z790 Aorus Elite AX Motherboard LGA 1700 DDR5
  • Author
7 minutes ago, HiFlyer said:

If possible I would try plugging the drive into another computer to see what happens.

Thanks but I don’t have that as an option

Thomas Derbyshire

Can you ask a friend for an usb key with a booting linux distro ?
You would be able to check your computer is 100% alive, then,
you would be able to check /repair your efi partition !
you would be able to save your data onto another usb device.

I just fixed a similar problem rebooting with a windows install usb drive and selecting repair. A DVD would work too. 

Edited by keithb77

...

Just unplug all drives except the boot drive. And try that. Second option which you wil think is crazy, but often works. Power off the pc, turn off an switches on the PSU. 

Now pull the ATX 24 pin connector off the board, and with the PC completely unplugged from the wall still, press the power button on your PC twice. Reconnect the ATX cable, plug it all back in and try that. Seriously this really does work.

 

To elaborate:

You can get static build up in that area, not sure why. Pulling the cable out, helps release it, But pressing the power button discharges it, if you watch closely you will see the power LED flicker even with the power out and the ATX plug out. I can not tell you how many odd things that has fixed for me over the years.

Edited by a321

I've had that happen a couple of times in the past, and my guess is that it's not an unrecoverable problem if you're willing to persevere.

Since troubleshooting many problems is dependent on one's particular components, suggestions as to what to try have to be generic.

I know that my MSI mobo offers a bios-level boot keyboard command to list all available drives to select the correct boot-up drive - repeating F11.  This may also be an option for other mobo brands.

But I wouldn't just write it off yet.

Oh, and one parting suggestion:  Over the years, I've ended up with situations where my PC refused to boot into Windows, all troubleshooting options had been exhausted, and the only one left was the "Repair" where Windows is reinstalled from scratch.  The impact is that you get a working Windows OS, but the majority of your previously installed applications were removed, and have to be completely reinstalled.  It's a long, tedious job that can take weeks.

It's for this reason I backup my entire boot drive several times a week, such that if the worst happens, and it will, I can simply use my Macrium Reflect backup software to restore my boot drive to the condition it was in at that backup date.  I typically only lose a few days data, normally very little, and it's a much better option than the aforementioned Windows "Repair".  Restore operation takes just 15-20 mins or so.  Just a thought for the future...

Edited by elcaro

I had something similar a while ago, can't quite remember exactly the solution, but the problem was the BIOS couldn't locate the windows install drive to boot from, for some reason.  Solution in the end was changing one option in the BIOS and it found it then, and poof! Fixed! (Reading the linked article disabling legacy boot was it I think.)

Edited by kevinfirth

Kevin Firth - AMD 9800X3D; Asus Prime X670E; 64Gb Cas30 6000 DDR5; RTX5090; AutoFPS

  • Author

Hi all thanks for replies I have been away on holiday come back today.  I’ve actually ordered a new Win 10 DVD which I’m hoping will be waiting for me when I get home.

I have tried disconnecting all drives and the PC still doesn’t boot.  I will try some of the other suggestions and report back.

some good news is my boot drive only has windows installed, everything else is on my D drive and everything I have downloaded lives on an external drive so a reinstall of windows should mean I don’t have to start from scratch completely.

Thomas Derbyshire

10 hours ago, sidfadc said:

a reinstall of windows should mean

that all information stored in the windows registry and in the USERS directory has gone, including basic MSFS files, therefore elcaro's tip re. a complete backup of the C:\ drive is the most practical approach:

https://www.avsim.com/forums/topic/606072-no-more-flight-sim-for-a-while/?do=findComment&comment=4609466

And Macrium Reflect backup software is even free!

https://www.macrium.com/reflectfree

And no need to re-purchase a Windows10 DVD either when you can use the official free Windows Media creation tool from Microsoft, provided you own a valid Windows10 license already:

https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows10

Edited by turbomax

AMD 7800X3D, Windows 11, Gigabyte X670 AORUS Elite AX Motherboard, 64GB DDR5 G.SKILL Trident Z5 NEO RGB (AMD Expo), RTX 4090,  Samsung 980 PRO M.2 NVMe SSD 2 TB PCIe 4.0, Samsung 980 PRO M.2 NVMe SSD 1 TB PCIe 4.0, 4K resolution 50" TV @60Hz, VR: Pimax Crystal Light + HP Reverb G2 @ 90 Hz, Honeycomb Bravo Throttle Quadrant, be quiet 1000W PSU, Noctua NH-U12S chromax.black air cooler.

60-130 fps. no CPU overclocking.

very nice.

  • Author

Just to let you guys know I'm back up and running.  In the end I had to reinstall from a Windows DVD.  

First hard drive crash for quite a number of years!  I'm still not convinced my SSD is "fixed" so I'm going to see how I go now and if it fails again buy a new SSD.  Bit strapped for cash at the minute so will see how it goes.

Edited by sidfadc

Thomas Derbyshire

On 9/3/2021 at 1:28 PM, sidfadc said:

Just to let you guys know I'm back up and running.  In the end I had to reinstall from a Windows DVD.  

First hard drive crash for quite a number of years!  I'm still not convinced my SSD is "fixed" so I'm going to see how I go now and if it fails again buy a new SSD.  Bit strapped for cash at the minute so will see how it goes.

While your Windows install is still relatively fresh and apparently running satisfactorily: run in cmd admin mode 'sfc /scannow' and 'control userpasswords2', check your disks for errors, get a screen cap of your 'Device Manager' screen, run anti-virus and check https://www.grc.com/intro.htm and speedtest.net, check and save log files in Event Viewer, create a 'system restore' and finally, create an image of your system drive. All this can be done without spending anything.

 

Edited by bofhlusr
Fix typos.

Hardware: i7-8700k, GTX 1070-ti, 32GB ram, NVMe/SSD drives with lots of free space.
Software: latest Windows 10 Pro, P3Dv4.5+, FSX Steam, and lots of addons (100+ mostly Orbx stuff).

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