1 minute ago, Cpt_Piett said:

I know. I can't say that I have significantly better performance in SU10 either. I'm quite happy with the performance I get in SU9 though. In the early stages of the beta things were pretty sweet. I.e. when DX12 was working - before they chose to disable the VRAM memory manager. 

Yeah, I’m happy to hear NV is involved. It’s odd that the company that invented DX12 can’t get it working 🙂

@Cpt_Piett @Virtual-Chris @FreeBird(Josh) (or anyone else who can chime in)

I have narrowed by choice of TVs/monitors down to the C1 based on your feedback and countless videos I have watched. Now the question is size. I will be sitting at a desk and caught in a size versus comfort/practicality dilemma.

The 48 inch costs CHF 790 (basically 790 USD or 790 EURO or 696 GBP) while the 55 inch costs CHF 899 (899 USD or 879 Euro or 792 pounds) but also comes with a decent free soundbar and subwoofer as a free special offer (soon to expire).

With the price of the two being so ridiculously close, as a result the issue I am having is not about cost. (both are affordable to me) but more so a question of practicality. I have seen people on YouTube sitting close to a 55 inch C1 and it looks quite huge. The 48 inch seems more 'sensible' from a comfort perspective but for such a small amount extra does it seem silly to turn down the 55inch?

Apart from flight sim, and some gaming, I do quite a bit of video and photo editing as well as web design. I will also use it for browsing the internet and email. Please can you let me know your thoughts on what you would go for size wise and why, specifically at that small price difference, and for use as a desk monitor (I can't mount it to the wall as I am currently renting)?

Cheers, Steve

I personally would get the 48" as I felt the 55" was to big.

4 hours ago, steve310002 said:

Now the question is size.

I'm thinking the 55 might be a little bit big for that type of usage. Isn't there some sort of way to calculate the ideal size based on viewing distance? Or vice versa. 

Any input @Virtual-Chris?

24 minutes ago, steve310002 said:

Any input @Virtual-Chris?

Sorry, I can't really tell you what will work as a desktop monitor. I have a 77" TV and sit 5' away, and it doesn't feel too big. The thing is, I'm sure you could probably make either one work. If you have a shop near you with different TVs on display, it might be worth dropping in and see how they look when you're sitting arm's reach away?  I dunno.

Having said all that, I'm not sure an OLED is ideal for a desktop monitor. They are susceptible to burn-in... and desktop usage is likely going to be a challenge in that regard. But on the other hand, if it's not a big financial burden, you could buy a new one every year or two and it's not a big deal I guess.

Edited August 28, 20223 yr by Virtual-Chris

On 8/27/2022 at 2:07 PM, FreeBird(Josh) said:

I personally would get the 48" as I felt the 55" was to big.

 

23 hours ago, Cpt_Piett said:

I'm thinking the 55 might be a little bit big for that type of usage. Isn't there some sort of way to calculate the ideal size based on viewing distance? Or vice versa. 

I went with the 48 inch. Just ordered it. Based on your feedback and a million videos I watched it seems the 48 inch is the sweet spot for using this screen at a desk. I'm super excited and should have it delivered on Tuesday. Thanks for your help.

54 minutes ago, steve310002 said:

I went with the 48 inch. Just ordered it.

Awesome, I'm sure you'll be very happy with it 🙂 Let us know your impressions. 

On 8/25/2022 at 6:33 PM, Cpt_Piett said:

Ok, so now we’re getting even deeper into that rabbit hole. Guess we both picked the red pill, right?

That’s the essence of it, yes. 

Ive done a fair bit of reading over at the official forums as HDR was not working for a while after a beta update. Well, myself and others claim that it’s still not working after the “fix”. That coincidentally led me into a discussion of nits and how specular highlights in MSFS (when HDR is in fact working) is overblown, leading to loss of contrast and detail. 

As per my understanding this is a MSFS phenomenon, so these custom HDR settings could very well be inappropriate when using the OLED for other things.

If you’re interested, you can find more info in the thread I’m referring to. Think I linked to it in my thread over at the tips and tweaks subforum. 

And I’m sorry I wasn’t of much help with this VRR flickering issue, as I sort of dived into it head first without getting a proper overview, and spent a while reaching the same conclusion as you did (re the suboptimal LG menu fix). I should have spent more time researching the issue and reading your post properly. 

 

So I played around with HDR tone mapping settings over the weekend, and actually exchanged some messages with FinalLightNL over on the official forums on this topic.

The problem with Windows and MSFS, is that without an HDR calibration tool, that the TV will either get bad or erroneous meta-data in the HDR stream and apply the incorrect tone mapping if you set it to HGiG. Hence you need to go into the HDMI settings to force certain values. Tone mapping Off, seems to offer a slightly darker picture and therefore less clipped highlights.  Tone Mapping On, seems to offer a slightly brighter picture but has more highlight compression so both settings have pros/cons. 

In the absence of an HDR calibration tool in Windows/MSFS, you need to set the metadata in the HDIM settings. We believe Mastering Peak sets the max luminance of the tone mapping scale for your TV - so should probably be 700 or 1000nits to match the peak output of the display. That seemed to have a noticeable effect for me.  I could see that values below 700 caused the highlights to compress, and above 1000, the whole picture became washed out. 700 or 1000 didn't make much difference but I could see a tiny bit more detail at 1000 so I left it there.

MaxCLL should be the peak value in the content, which we know to be around 10000 NITS.  But honestly, I couldn't find any difference in the picture at various settings. MaxFULL should be the average brightness of the content, and that is probably around 200-400 but again, I found no difference changing that setting.

Leaving color on auto is switching to BT.2020 so that's good.

I'm curious what differences you see with any of these settings. 

Related, I noted that there was news back in February of the a beta insider build of Win 11 having an HDR calibration tool that would see the Xbox calibaration app ported to Windows, but it's now been 6 months and nothing.  It would be great if we got this, then we could switch to HGiG and forget about it.

Lastly, anyone that thinks you should just set your TV to HGiG (like I did until recently) is mis-informed... Until Windows or MSFS gets a calibration tool, the TV won't know how to interpret the signal properly set to HGiG.

Edited August 29, 20223 yr by Virtual-Chris

2 hours ago, Virtual-Chris said:

So I played around with HDR tone mapping settings over the weekend, and actually exchanged some messages with FinalLightNL over on the official forums on this topic.

Thanks Chris, this is very good information and does clarify some issues. I've experimented lately with the HDR settings on my OLED and how it influences the look of MSFS. Without capping MaxCLL at 1000 the highlights and specular highlights are blown in almost all situations, leading to loss of contrast and detail. I've also found that this can be handled very efficiently with some reshade settings. I mentioned something about this during the weekend in the reshade thread. I think I also posted a few screenshots for comparison. 

What you mention about HGIG and the lack of proper HDR calibration is also very interesting. I think it was FinalLightNL that mentioned that such a tool will be available soon for those in the Insider program (which I am). 

2 hours ago, Virtual-Chris said:

Lastly, anyone that thinks you should just set your TV to HGiG (like I did until recently) is mis-informed... Until Windows or MSFS gets a calibration tool, the TV won't know how to interpret the signal properly set to HGiG.

So I guess for now the way to deal with the suboptimal situation, is to have HGIG set to off. The thing is though - I use my OLED for other things than PC/MSFS - it's also my TV. So I might have to turn it back on when I'm watching a movie with say Dolby Vision. 

By the way, if there's a thread on the official forums that discusses these things, it would be great if you could link it here. 

On 8/27/2022 at 8:31 AM, Cpt_Piett said:

I'm thinking the 55 might be a little bit big for that type of usage. Isn't there some sort of way to calculate the ideal size based on viewing distance? Or vice versa. 

Try this -- https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/by-size/size-to-distance-relationship

2 minutes ago, pgde said:

Try this -- https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/by-size/size-to-distance-relationship

Thanks. Based on this I should sit 10.8 ft / 3.29 m from my 77" (which I do, roughly), while @steve310002 should be  6.7 ft / 2.05 m away from his "48. 

3 hours ago, Cpt_Piett said:

Thanks. Based on this I should sit 10.8 ft / 3.29 m from my 77" (which I do, roughly), while @steve310002 should be  6.7 ft / 2.05 m away from his "48. 

Thanks a lot for checking this info and sharing it. I'll be about 1 meter away at my desk so we'll see how it goes. I see a lot of youtubers sitting at a similar distance so hopefully it's bareable. 

10 hours ago, Cpt_Piett said:

 

By the way, if there's a thread on the official forums that discusses these things, it would be great if you could link it here. 

I think you're already involved in this thread on the official forums...

 https://forums.flightsimulator.com/t/hdr-is-non-functional-in-testing-both-dx11-and-dx12/

And FinalLight has this post on Reddit which is what I also came across...

 

Just thought I'd update this thread with some info re: g-sync / v-sync. @Virtual-Chris sorry to ping you, but you were quite active in this thread, and I'd like to hear your opinion. 

So I noticed some low light shimmering (can't remember if that is what we used to call it) during a flight at dusk yesterday. I had g-sync off in NCP main menu.

Hitting the "green button" on my CX 77 remote, the on-screen display showed VRR and the refresh rate was clearly changing. Looking in my OLED picture settings, there's only the option of turning off "AMD freesync premium".  Nothing about g-sync or VRR elsewhere in the menu. Turning off freesync had no effect - the TV still reported VRR.

So I went back to NCP, "manage 3D settings". Surely there's an option where it's possible to choose "fixed refresh". 

Hitting the green button on my remote multiple times again, and surely now the OLED reports a fixed 120Hz (my OLED's native refresh rate). 

TL;DR: On LG OLED panels, variable refresh rate - VRR - might still be on even though G-Sync is disabled under "Set up G-Sync" in nVidia control panel main menu. 

Sorry for the lengthy writeup, just wanted to be thorough in explaining this. I'm still using the "fast v-sync" option in NCP. 

Also - I'm thinking there's a huge gap between 120Hz and my usual fps in the sim (I rarely get above 60 with my settings). Should I reduce the refresh rate of my monitor? Perhaps also @Ianrivaldosmith has a take on this. Again, sorry to tag you, feel free to disregard at will 🙂

Edited September 27, 20223 yr by Cpt_Piett