I have a Logitech 3d Pro joystick, now about 3 years old.

Just recently I have been experiencing problems with taxi manoeuvres. The plane (PMDG 747-400) pulls slightly to the right when taxiing and has to have opposite left rudder to correct it.

The calibration screen shows that when the steering/rudder is straight, the Joystick is slightly off centre, to the right.

I have done all the expected things: deleted P3D.cfg, removed Joystick from Device manager and re-installed, tried to calibrate in FSUIPC and changed the USB port but none of it has fixed the problem.

The funny thing is that I have at least now, after all the attempts, got full movement of the plane's rudder.

Is there anything I have missed, or is it time to save for a new Joystick?

Thanks, Ian.

Make sure Autopilot is off 😉

 

Best darn joystick on the market. Have owned one for 12 years now. " blaunwal" has the answer above.

Jim

Edited December 23, 20232 yr by jfmitch
didn't like (word not allowed) joystick

If the calibration screen shows an off-center axis value when the joystick is physically centered, then it needs recalibration in Windows.

I use a utility called DIView (freeware from the LeoBodnar.com website) to inspect the raw uncalibrated values coming from the joystick into the PC via DirectInput.  If the axis values are wandering significantly (e.g. more than a percent or so) with the joystick centered, then calibration will not really be possible, as any calibrated center will be rendered invalid as the input drifts.  This is common when a potentiometer wears out.  In that event, you either have to replace the pot or the joystick.

Joysticks with Hall Effect sensors (magnetic field detectors) don't wear out like those with pots, which use a wiper arm moving over a resistive surface that eventually wears out.

 

2 minutes ago, Bob Scott said:

If the calibration screen shows an off-center axis value when the joystick is physically centered, then it needs recalibration in Windows.

I use a utility called DIView (freeware from the LeoBodnar.com website) to inspect the raw uncalibrated values coming from the joystick into the PC via DirectInput.  If the axis values are wandering significantly (e.g. more than a percent or so) with the joystick centered, then calibration will not really be possible, as any calibrated center will be off as the input drifts.  This is common when the axis potentiometer wears out.  in that event, you either have to replace the pot or the joystick.

Joysticks with Hall Effect sensors (magnetic field detectors) don't wear out like pots, which use a wiper arm moving over a resistive surface that eventually wears out.

 

Thanks, Bob.

I have looked but cannot find any joysticks with Hall effect sensors. Do you have any trade names?

These all come to mind...there are undoubtably others:

Thrustmaster T.16000M, TCA Airbus and Warthog

Virpil WarBrd-D and Mongoos

VKB Gunfighter IV

With DIView, the twist axis shows  between 12-18% deviation from mid-point 50%. So, time for a new one.

Thanks for your help.

1 hour ago, Bob Scott said:

These all come to mind...there are undoubtably others:

Thrustmaster T.16000M, TCA Airbus and Warthog

Virpil WarBrd-D and Mongoos

VKB Gunfighter IV

T16000 and TCA Airbus have a regular pot for the twist (rudder axis). Warthog doesn't have a twist axis at all.

Both Virpil and VKB have contactless sensors for the twist axis, but not in the bases mentioned, but in the grips; so care should be taken to choose the grip with the twist.

For a Logitech 3D Pro replacement I'd recommend a VKB Gladiator NXT EVO joystick- either a WWII Combat Edition or a Space Combat Edition. 

3 hours ago, Bob Scott said:

These all come to mind...there are undoubtably others:

Thrustmaster T.16000M, TCA Airbus and Warthog

Virpil WarBrd-D and Mongoos

VKB Gunfighter IV

Thanks Bob,

I have decided to go for the Thrustmaster T 1600M as it is available here at a good price and the other makes are not. (Those that are, are hugely more expensive).

Ian, I'm chucking this into the ring re video drivers e.g. nVidia drivers. Have you updated the (e.g. nVidia game ready) driver recently? It's just that in the past I've had blips which then disappeared once a particular video driver version was updated or when I rolled back the driver! My suggestion doesn't sound relevant to you but I thought it would be negligent to keep quiet.

PS I've got x-56 hotas. Stiff twist action on joystick but effective. (Joystick pan button for looking around cockpit on P3D. But for MSFS I have to use thumb-controlled small wabbly thing half way up stick to look around.) Stiff action on the thrust (and mixture) levers but effective and sort of satisfying. Thrust unit has lots of buttons to adapt to change according to your preferences e.g. park, gear, flaps, various lights.

Spoil yourself! Get high(-est) quality (as long as you don't need PhD to understand it!).  You'll be using the unit for years to come

1 hour ago, rod55 said:

Spoil yourself! Get high(-est) quality (as long as you don't need PhD to understand it!).  You'll be using the unit for years to come

All suggestions are always welcome. (Otherwise, what is the point of posting here?)

I have gone for the best I can afford and which is in stock. The Logitechs had a varying life. My first one lasted about 6 years, the last one about 4. So if the Thrustmaster lasts for 6 to 8 years, it will probably outlast me. At least I will be able to move around airports without too much problem.

It is not a video driver problem. I have had three different versions, including an old one from last year, no difference.

8 hours ago, IanHarrison said:

Thanks Bob,

I have decided to go for the Thrustmaster T 1600M as it is available here at a good price and the other makes are not. (Those that are, are hugely more expensive).

One note--as mentioned above, the twist axis on the T.16000M (and the TCA Airbus, which is the same base with a different stick head) is *not* a Hall Effect sensor (the X-Y axes are).  There is a fairly easy mod to the stick (how-to videos on YouTube) where you unscrew the stick head and re-route a few wires so they're not tugging against the pot.  It also helps in some cases to file/sand down a small plastic nub inside the stick so that it's not putting downward pressure on the pot.  No advanced skills required--just a screwdriver and maybe an emery board or small file.

I have three of the T.16000M sticks and three of the TCA Airbus sticks (they seem to reproduce like rabbits around here), and I've done the mod on all of them to keep the twist axis working smoothly.