AJZip2

All good again. In the end, I reinstalled the Just Flight F70 and F100 as I'd messed them up when originally trying to solve the issue and it was easier than more tinkering about. Quite why you can run the sim and addons perfectly happily for months and, with no apparent changes or updates to either, it all goes crazy, I don't know. I suppose that's a bit like life in general...maybe it's the darker side of us pushing for more and more realism in the sim! 😄

I'm clearly not alone...this is what Google returns with a query about possible conflicts between MSFS2024 and FSRealistic: "Known Impacts on Cockpit Views Zoom and Height Overrides: FSRealistic has its own internal camera telemetry. If you adjust your default pilot height or zoom settings within the MSFS 2024 options menu, FSRealistic will often override them or cause the camera to "jump back" to a zoom level of 50 upon certain keystrokes. [1, 2, 3] Broken "Reset View" Command: Running FSRealistic can break the native MSFS "Reset Cockpit View" function. Attempting to center your view can cause the camera to lock into an incorrect, offset, or bugged physical coordinate. [1] Eratic First-Person Movements: In certain complex or third-party aircraft, FSRealistic's logic can conflict with the sim's bounding boxes, causing the camera to drift into bulkheads, ceilings, or glitch out during tight turns." Clearly, this doesn't happen all the time to all the users (and didn't for me until just), but worth knowing that they are possible clashes in some circumstances...

Yes - as you say 'the usual suspects'! I'd covered most of those - and ref all of the peripheral checks, yes I'd done those too. I'd checked all the updates - but I what I HAD forgotten about were the program addons. I turned all of those off one at a time...and when I turned off FSRealistic, all of a sudden I could see the runways again!! I've tried a number of aircraft types (GA; Tubeliners; Military) and all of the ones I have tried are now OK . The only one where I still have a problem is the Justflight Fokker F70/100...but those were the aircraft I was flying when I first had the issue and I made a number of settings changes that I now have to reverse. So I think it's basically sorted - I can live without FSRealistic for now and will do a bit more research to see if it's an issue other folk have had or whether it is just me. That said, why it should work just fine all last week and then not beats me! Then again... 🙂 Many thanks @Kristofski for your prompt reply and wisdom 👍

This is driving me crazy. I am a long time user of MSFS2024 both in 2D and VR and, for all types of aircraft, it has started to drop to the instrument panel view within a few seconds of booting up in the normal take-off pilot view. I boot up, start a new flight, it shows me the normal default pilot view and then drops down to where I can see the instruments but not the runway - it's as if the seat's dropped 5-6 inches. I've searched all of my settings to make sure there is not a spurious 'IFR' view setting or similar attached to any of my Hotas controls; I have tried different aircraft - from a 737 to a Cessna 172; I have tried different hotas profiles; I have disabled the Hotas controls one at a time to see if that makes a difference...it doesn't. I've done a 'Repair' of MSFS and that made no difference. Any ideas?

Definitely this ^^^ I had two cables in my bits drawer and first try picked the wrong one The VD info panel in the headset reported it as USB2 and the results were poor. I swapped the cables and the VD panel now reported USB 3 and the resulting visuals and smoothness were very good.

My go-to headset is the Pimax Crystal Light - but I do have also a Quest 3 that I use for no-cable stuff and as an emergency MSFS2024 backup in the event of the Crystal Light failure (although nowadays this rarely happens 👍 ). I've always run the Quest 3 through the splendid wireless Virtual Desktop. In terms of running the Quest 3 through VD in MSFS2024, it has always seemed a decent fall back if ever I had to sort a repair or replacement for the Crystal Light. However, in a straight A/B comparison, I would always put the Crystal Light back on after using the Quest in MSFS and immediately go 'Wow!!' So I thought it worth a try with the new Beta version of Virtual Desktop, linked with a decent USB3 cable. It took a bit of messing around - and Norton Antivirus REALLY doesn't like it...had to disable that to get the Quest boot up - but eventually achieved a pretty reliable and repeatable boot up of the Quest through the VD Beta link-cable. I then started doing A/B comparisons with various tweaks of the VD Beta settings (especially resolution and sharpness enhancement). This evening, I found my ideal settings - the resolution up from default 100% to 125%; sharpness enhancement OFF (at first I tried that too and, yes, it does indeed add sharpening with little impact, at my relatively modest settings, on performance. However, visually, the artificial sharpness and associated increased colour saturation looked less natural than having that setting simply turned off). I did a take-off and short flight in the Crystal Light back-to-back with the VD Beta Quest 3 in the Fenix A320, early dusk, medium cloud. I have to say - there was such a small difference in the two visuals in that particular test that if it had been a blindfold test I don't think I would have known which was which. And the Quest was just a teeny bit smoother!! Remarkable... Now, clearly, it needs much, much more comparison testing with different aircraft and conditions but, so far, count me impressed!! Oh - and one time on boot up, I inadvertently booted up Meta's own Link facility (the cable arrangement is the same). Stutter-fest and unusable at my normal MSFS settings...

It is well worth trying the Virtual Desktop Beta and the Quest 3 with a series 3 link cable. There's another thread here covering some of this: https://www.avsim.com/forums/topic/701081-meta-quest-freeze-rendering-still-running-on-the-monitor/

I agree with the above. My go-to is generally the Pimax Crystal Light but I use the Quest 3 for other stuff and dip into MSFS2024 with it every now and again. And my most recent dip in was trying the Beta version of Virtual Desktop with a decent (Series 3) link cable. It was useful while I was setting up because I kept accidentally booting up the Meta Link in error. Results: Meta Link using S3 cable: Surprisingly poor. Basically not usable at my preferred settings with poor rendering and unusable stutters Virtual Desktop, wireless - no cable: Good. Compared with the Crystal Light, a medium but noticeable, drop in sharpness for, say, instruments and small cockpit text but just as smooth in terms of overall visuals Virtual Desktop Beta with a S3 Cable: Very Good. I was able to increase both the Sharpness and Render % in the VD Beta settings a touch which brought most of the instrument and cockpit text to a very good sharpness and with only one or two displays showing a slight fuzziness (generally red LED displays). Given the choice, I would stick with the Crystal Light - but if that went kaput, I would now use the Quest 3 quite happily while the various makers carry on introducing and de-bugging their new products 🙂

Yup - we do all of the 'Do's' and don't do any of the 'Don't's' in terms of 12v battery health but the clue is, as said above, the actual expectation of 12v battery life. It is notable that the standard guarantee for a 12v replacement was only 4 Years with an option for a more expensive make at 5 years guarantee (and that's the one we got 😉). So yes - they really aren't expecting them to last very long. (And that makes you think...so why don't they warn you the dramatic things that might happen without warning after 4 years - or include a routine battery replacement at the 4-year service, remembering we get all our servicing through the Toyota main dealer??)

Quote from @martin-w post: "On a Honda Civic Hybrid, a flat 12V auxiliary battery makes the vehicle completely inoperable. Even though the car has a large hybrid traction battery, the small 12V battery is required to power the onboard computers and close the main high-voltage contactors. Without it, the car cannot enter "Ready" mode." Also the Toyota hybrid...as I recently found out myself. 5-year old Toyota Corolla hybrid - runs smoothly like a sewing machine; key fob batteries replaced in past 6 months; serviced by Toyota to their schedule, etc etc. I unlocked car as normal with the fob button and WOW!!...pretty much every warning light and alert on the dash intermittently flashing; boot locked and wouldn't open; back doors and passenger door locked. Key fob wouldn't lock or unlock the doors or shut down the system. Only way of stopping it all was holding dashboard start button. This shut down the system but still couldn't lock the door. Basically, full hybrid failure. It was Sunday before a long and important journey - Toyota closed; local garage closed; my car breakdown service didn't cover 'at home'; user manual checked but makes no reference to this. So I Googled it. One post talked about a flat 12v battery doing this. I got the emergency 12v jump lead pack out and connected to the 12v car battery - and the car behaved completely normally. I disconnected the booster pack and shut down the system. I tried to open the car with the fob - but was back to total illuminations and random car locks once more. So I started the car with the booster pack and drove straight to a tyre/battery outlet and got a new 12v battery fitted - and it's been all normal since. There is NOTHING in the manual about this. The thought of this happening at, say, a motorway services with kids now locked in the back of the car gives me the shivers...

Yes - MSFS2024 Repair, of course 😀 Keyboard aim malfunction on my part... 🤣

Go onto the XBox App, choose MSFS2020 and do choose their 'Repair' facility?

The default Community Folder for the Microsoft Store version is here, where 'USERNAME' means your own Microsoft user name: C:\Users\USERNAME\AppData\Local\Packages\Microsoft.FlightSimulator_8wekyb3d8bbwe\LocalCache\Packages\Community

Great shots @787flyer

As default (that is, unless you've elected to hold it somewhere else) it is - and try to suspend your feeling of disbelief C:\Users\Your username\AppData\Local\Packages\Microsoft.FlightSimulator_8wekyb3d8bbwe\LocalCache\Packages\Community

As mentioned above - I, too, turned on 'Smooth Motion' for MSFS2024 in the nVidia App last year and it transformed my VR experience. In fact, reflecting over a decade of tweaking of settings from the early VR days of X-plane 11 to MSFS to MSFS2024, it has been the only 'one switch transformation of performance' I can ever remember. Your results may, of course be different but, if so, it is also just one switch to turn it off again...

Personally, I think it is absolutely splendid. Very clever stuff to effectively have an invisible but 'working' engineer if you want for the cold and start but, with some adjustments to the ability to move round the cockpit into each of the flight positions, managing to actually start it from cold and dark was one of the most satisflying thing I've done in years of enjoying the 2020/2024 sims. Took a few goes at it, mind...

@zorro747 I think to avoid confusion, you would be better reposting your question in the "Virtual Reality (VR) for Microsoft Flight Simulator (2020/2024)" subsection of this forum. Recommended graphics settings are so, so different between 2D and VR that I think you will get a quicker and more focussed answer there.

I'll have a peep at my settings and make a note of the ones that, especially for VR, may be adversely affecting the performance. I say that because MS have a habit of reverting certain settings back to 'Default' during their major updates...and 'Default' always means the default for 2D. One I can think of straightaway is 'Photogrammetry' - which they seem to always turn back on but which, certainly on my system, creates a stutterfest in VR. I know there are others - I'll have a look when I get a moment and see if there are some obvious ones you might want to check.

No - the -100 'Series' is all three but you can buy the -100 Passenger and -100 Freighter individually

You have a number of options: You can buy the Passenger 100 version which is standalone You can buy the Freighter 100 version which is standalone If you buy either of these above, then you get a discount if you want to subsequently buy the other. AND for the above, you can subsequently buy the Super addon which gives you the 200 series upgrades of engines and avionics - but the Super addon is NOT standalone OR You can buy the Series - which includes Passenger version, Freighter version and the Super addon altogether

Yes - they both suffer with that. I have both headsets. On the Quest I have a battery-pack back strap which adds significant extension to the time between charges as well as balancing the headset which, counterintuitively, makes it feel lighter. On the Crystal Light I have lead weights on the back strap for the same reason. In both cases I have a proprietory face mask add-on (which makes an enormous difference with both headsets - shame on both suppliers for their 'as supplied' face mask specs!). When I first got the two head sets my PC specs were not far off the same as yours. If I boot up the Quest 3 it gives me a very good VR experience. It is only when I then back-to-back boot up the Crystal Light that I get the full 'Wow - even better!!' hit. I think if you watch a few videos and tweak a few settings you should be able to get a pretty decent VR experience with the Quest 3. With higher resolution headsets, you might find that you really are hardware-restricted.

This one is quite old - but still relevant and helpful:

Oh and make sure that you are using the 5GHz channel of your router

It's worth looking at some older videos from folks such as Simhanger where they do some decent Virtual Desktop settings stuff. On of the main/easiest tools you have in the Virtual Desktop is to go into settings and find the list of visual presets (there are around 8 presets from 'Low' to 'Godlike'). I think you will find that at default you are on 'Medium', in the middle level of the resolution options. It is easy to try one better one at a time towards the highest (I think 'Godlike' is still the highest) and then seeing if you still have a stutter-free experience. If you do start getting a few stutters, simply drop back one setting and try that.