According to FCOM2, page 3, 20.8 the wing anti-ice automatically trips-off under certain conditions such as takeoff thrust, lift-off, etc. I can find no indication that wing anti-ice automactically comes back on. Does it need to be manually turned on after takeoff?ThanksMichael

Hi buddy.I asked this question at work today and here is the answer from our pilots-"DISPATCH- YES IT KICKS OFF ON T/O. IT NEEDS TO BE TURNED BACK ON AFTER T/O MANUALLY NO AUTO FEATUREHEAVY PENALLITY FOR G/A"I hope it will help.

The wing AI, on ground, automatically closes the valves with thrust levers advanced (lights will remain bright as the switch will be still in ON position) then, at lift off, the switch trips to te OFF position and must be set manually back to on.

Edited January 24, 201214 yr by davierosoft

Thanks for the information.Michael

I aquired my PMDG 737 NGX on Jan. 9th and it was overwhelming. After trying the tutorial by the letter, I decided to try (on my own) to close down to C&D. It worked, but then the engines would not start :( . As I was aware of a need to set bleed valves correctly and by trial and ERROR, I managed to get engines running.Now I read the "checklist" by WestAir i the topic "Engines won't start" and I would have liked very much to have had that - it is good.BUT can one of you explain to me the (technical) reasons for the ways the bleed valves have to be set at start (e.g. why is it important to leave the L PACK and its bleed valve OFF when starting the right engine)????As for me, you are welcome to be A BIT sarcastic but please bear with me if my English is incorrect - it is after all not my native language.RegardsCarl MichaelPS.: I like the quote: "Enough is too little; too much is enough" - it could have some bearing on reading the manuals :(

Air to start the engine is taken from the other engine or the APU.The quantity of air is limited by the power of the APU or engine.As the packs need a big amount of air when running, there will be not sufficient air to start an engine.So, the packs must be turned off.There is also the isolation valve, to understand what it does, just look at the symbols and lines on the panel, it isolates or connect each pneumatic side.To start the right engine from APU you need APU bleed (source) on, Isolation valve open (to connect the APU on the left side, to the engine 2 starter on the right side) without having any load (packs or antiice).About engine bleed position before start, either ON or OFF is the same as the valve will be closed until engine is running.

PS.: I like the quote: "Enough is too little; too much is enough" - it could have some bearing on reading the manuals :(

Heh, it was my grandad's saying..he meant it too..But back on topic, and sorry to be rude and butt in, but I have a question about Anti-Ice. I get a message on the CDU; TAI at or above 10 degrees. I've had it a couple of times now. Thermal Anti-Ice I know, but is it telling me I've left it on when I don't need it or is it telling me that the actual anti-ice heat is at or above 10 degrees? I guess in the end they amount to the same thing..Sorry for my ignorance; I haven't got to that (those!) bit(s) yet. I'm reading about ten diff. sections of FCOMs at once atm, on three different computers at different times :Nerd:EDIT: found it. Turn it off. So many things to remember! Who'd be an ATP!

Edited January 24, 201214 yr by quadraspleen

I get a message on the CDU; TAI at or above 10 degrees. I've had it a couple of times now. Thermal Anti-Ice I know, but is it telling me I've left it on when I don't need it or is it telling me that the actual anti-ice heat is at or above 10 degrees? I guess in the end they amount to the same thing..[...]EDIT: found it. Turn it off. So many things to remember! Who'd be an ATP!

Yep.For future reference of those passing by that post who are wondering what the message means, basically it is telling you that the Anti-Ice is on with temperatures above 10 degrees, which is unnecessary.

Edited January 24, 201214 yr by scandinavian13

the Anti-Ice is on with temperatures above 10 degrees, which is unnecessary.

/!stupid question alert!/ And that would be 10 degrees farenheit, right?So by that logic (and if it is C not F) <10 degrees you need to start de-icing? I was always told to de-ice (depending on conditions obv.) starting at 0deg C or below (occasionally above freezing but rarely)I have my FSX set to hybrid units, and it seems to do whatever I want the wrong way round!

Edited January 24, 201214 yr by quadraspleen

/!stupid question alert!/ And that would be 10 degrees farenheit, right?So by that logic (and if it is C not F) <10 degrees you need to start de-icing? I was always told to de-ice (depending on conditions obv.) starting at 0deg C or below (occasionally above freezing but rarely)I have my FSX set to hybrid units, and it seems to do whatever I want the wrong way round!

I've always been taught +10 to -10 with visible moisture is the guideline for A/I (the reason for the plus side is that there may be supercooled water droplets; or the water may not freeze to a regular surface, but if you're descending, your aircraft's skin temps will likely still be below zero from the FLs). The unit in question would be Celsius in this case.

Edited January 24, 201214 yr by scandinavian13

Ok, that all clears a lot up. Thanks. Back to it..

Hi buddy.I asked this question at work today and here is the answer from our pilots-"DISPATCH- YES IT KICKS OFF ON T/O. IT NEEDS TO BE TURNED BACK ON AFTER T/O MANUALLY NO AUTO FEATUREHEAVY PENALLITY FOR G/A"I hope it will help.

Had you asked this via ARCAS?