Just a word on the radio. Primarily in the EU all radios had to be updated to 8.333 kHz steps as we were running out of frequencies. Very expensive for GA community, unless you föew totally local and your stations around did not use the  smaller steps.

Yes,  I know Andrey is working on a solution for that. Also for the multiplayer invisibility. Please be patient. We will let you know when available.

7 hours ago, Viking01 said:

Multiplayer pilots are more the quiet types.

Forgive me...😆😁

4 hours ago, metzgergva said:

Please be patient.

Oh we are, very. 😣

On 1/14/2021 at 10:21 PM, sd_flyer said:

You have to set course arrow  to  a heading compass and the heading arrow to desired heading. It's a very simple directional gyro

Thanks, but this is still confusing me. I think its the way you use it that I'm not used to. My thinking is that I just want to know what direction I'm heading now. If I set the compass rose to match the wet compass then I'm good on the runway but the gyro rose never moves. So I can also set the arrow (heading / course?) to point straight ahead too and that will move but why have a compass rose then? 

I'd be grateful if someone would share the typical usage, especially one that would involve a change of course.

 

Edited January 16, 20215 yr by Spit40

3 hours ago, Spit40 said:

Thanks, but this is still confusing me. I think its the way you use it that I'm not used to. My thinking is that I just want to know what direction I'm heading now. If I set the compass rose to match the wet compass then I'm good on the runway but the gyro rose never moves. So I can also set the arrow (heading / course?) to point straight ahead too and that will move but why have a compass rose then? 

I'd be grateful if someone would share the typical usage, especially one that would involve a change of course.

 

It is really a simple device Spit.  It is just an aid that is easier to see than the compass.

1. Make sure the overhead gyro switch is on, and wait for it to settle a few seconds.
2. Calibrate the pin to the wet compass.
3. If you want to, set your bars to your desired heading, when your pin matches the bars (parallel between the bars), you are right on track - just easier to see that's all. 
As I change heading a lot of the time, I just tend to leave my bars set to north unless I am following a heading for a long time.  It is just easier / clearer to monitor than the compass.

With a real one, you would get gyro drift over time, and you would have to calibrate it to the compass again occasionally. 
Not sure if drift is modelled in the sim, but it wouldn't hurt to check it against the compass occasionally, as you are supposed to do.

Also, as another use, I suppose if you know the difference in angle between magnetic compass north, and true north (for the part of the world you are flying in), you could set it to that if you have a reason too.

There is nothing more to the device than this - it is a simple instrument, like me. 

PS. for clarity, the bars only ever move manually; only the pin is controlled by the gyro (after you have initially calibrated it to the wet compass).

Edited January 16, 20215 yr by bobcat999

41 minutes ago, bobcat999 said:

It is really a simple device Spit.  It is just an aid that is easier to see than the compass.

1. Make sure the overhead gyro switch is on, and wait for it to settle a few seconds.
2. Calibrate the pin to the wet compass.
3. If you want to, set your bars to your desired heading, when your pin matches the bars (parallel between the bars), you are right on track - just easier to see that's all. 
As I change heading a lot of the time, I just tend to leave my bars set to north unless I am following a heading for a long time.  It is just easier / clearer to monitor than the compass.

With a real one, you would get gyro drift over time, and you would have to calibrate it to the compass again occasionally. 
Not sure if drift is modelled in the sim, but it wouldn't hurt to check it against the compass occasionally, as you are supposed to do.

Also, as another use, I suppose if you know the difference in angle between magnetic compass north, and true north (for the part of the world you are flying in), you could set it to that if you have a reason too.

There is nothing more to the device than this - it is a simple instrument, like me. 

PS. for clarity, the bars only ever move manually; only the pin is controlled by the gyro (after you have initially calibrated it to the wet compass).

Thanks, I'm getting the picture. You say " If you want to, set your bars to your desired heading". That moves the whole rose, so I guess I do that before setting the pin. Also I can see how I wouldn't want to change it midflight as then the pin is wrong, unless I reset the pin with the wet compass. Is that what people would do in practice?

Sorry if I'm being a bit slow, I guess there's something that feels counter intuitive to my brain. Still, this would have been designed with the technology of the day, whether that made it intuitive or otherwise.

 

3 hours ago, Spit40 said:

Thanks, I'm getting the picture. You say " If you want to, set your bars to your desired heading". That moves the whole rose, so I guess I do that before setting the pin. Also I can see how I wouldn't want to change it midflight as then the pin is wrong, unless I reset the pin with the wet compass. Is that what people would do in practice?

Sorry if I'm being a bit slow, I guess there's something that feels counter intuitive to my brain. Still, this would have been designed with the technology of the day, whether that made it intuitive or otherwise.

Sure. Spit - you have it.

Just one thing is confusing me now though.  you talking about moving the whole rose.  The pin and the bars do move independently of each other for you don't they?  They should!  (left knob / right knob).
Also, have you definitely turned on 'gyro' on the overhead panel?  When you do, that instrument should swing about for a few seconds to show it has turned on.

PS. Once the pin is calibrated to the compass, you shouldn't need to touch it again unless it needs recalibrating due to drift, you only move the bars after that to use as a guide to your heading (pin and bars lined up = on track).

Edit:  Sorry Spit - for clarification, it is of course the rose that moves; the bars always stay vertical.

Edited January 16, 20215 yr by bobcat999

How's adverse yaw in this plane? (don't have it cause I'm waiting to buy it from MSFS marketplace). All the default MSFS planes have little to no adverse yaw, and some third party payware are also affected by that. Is Piaggio different, and generate adverse yaw appropriately? 

3 hours ago, bobcat999 said:

Sure. Spit - you have it.

Just one thing is confusing me now though.  you talking about moving the whole rose.  The pin and the bars do move independently of each other for you don't they?  They should!  (left knob / right knob).
Also, have you definitely turned on 'gyro' on the overhead panel?  When you do, that instrument should swing about for a few seconds to show it has turned on.

PS. Once the pin is calibrated to the compass, you shouldn't need to touch it again unless it needs recalibrating due to drift, you only move the bars after that to use as a guide to your heading (pin and bars lined up = on track).

Edit:  Sorry Spit - for clarification, it is of course the rose that moves; the bars always stay vertical.

Many thanks. I think I have a good enough handle on it now to use it properly and no doubt refine my technique. Appreciate your help.

Hi, another question or another mistake.

I use the Logitech X52 Flightstick. My problem is the Throttle or RPM gauge of the P149. 

First, in the cockpit view it shows another rpm than when I am in the externial view. For example in the cockpit it shows 3000RPM, outside 1800.

2nd, I cannot handle the rpm on the correct way. After start while the climb manual says to reduce rpm to 3000. I have to nearly completely decrease my throttle with the X52 to reach about 3200rpm shown in the cockpit. Outside it shows around 1600 at this moment.

I testet the same with all default MSFS 2020 aircraft, like the C152, C172, Diamond 40,... In every default plane the throttle an rpm work finde together and show the same inside cockpit and with outside view.

I had installed the "better cameras" mod from flightsim.to, tried to get it fixed without the mod, didn`t help.

Has anybody a suggestion or an idea that could solve my problem?

Thx a lot,

Stefan

22 hours ago, Steffsche81 said:

Hi, another question or another mistake.

I use the Logitech X52 Flightstick. My problem is the Throttle or RPM gauge of the P149. 

First, in the cockpit view it shows another rpm than when I am in the externial view. For example in the cockpit it shows 3000RPM, outside 1800.

2nd, I cannot handle the rpm on the correct way. After start while the climb manual says to reduce rpm to 3000. I have to nearly completely decrease my throttle with the X52 to reach about 3200rpm shown in the cockpit. Outside it shows around 1600 at this moment.

I testet the same with all default MSFS 2020 aircraft, like the C152, C172, Diamond 40,... In every default plane the throttle an rpm work finde together and show the same inside cockpit and with outside view.

I had installed the "better cameras" mod from flightsim.to, tried to get it fixed without the mod, didn`t help.

Has anybody a suggestion or an idea that could solve my problem?

Thx a lot,

Stefan

I'm not sure about the external view gauges as I only use the external view for screenshots and keep the gauges turned off. It might be a bug?

With respect to the other issue, the other planes you mentioned have fixed pitch propellers meaning the RPM changes proportionally with the throttle. 

Some other default aircraft (eg Diamond DA40, maybe others), as well as the FW149 have constant speed propellers. Meaning you set the RPM using the prop lever and the pitch (the angle) of the prop blades is controlled automatically using a mechanism called a governer to try to maintain that RPM. Even though the propeller maintains a constant RPM, the thrust does change when you change the throttle since the angle of blades changes in response. However, if the throttle drops so low that the angle can no longer compensate, then finally the RPM begins to drop which is whats happening in your case.

You can bind the prop lever to either an axis if you have one free or a couple of buttons or just use the mouse to move the lever. I think the plane starts with the prop lever at 100% so after take off you simply move it back until the RPM drops below 3000. The prop lever is the one with the brown handle just next to the throttle lever on the left side and duplicated in the center for the copilot.

I would recommend you read up a little on constant speed propellers for more information and understanding. 

eg:

 

 

Thx a lot. I understand. Tested it and works fine. Set the prop axis to a wheel at the joystick an everything is fine now. Didn‘t know that I have to handle throttle and the prop with this plane. Now its really fun to fly with it 

Next question. Did a flight around 100nm an in the pattern, when I wanted to bring the gear down, it did not work. Neither with assigned button, nor with a joystick assignment or in the cockpit. Has anybody an idea?

I have done around 30 flights in the Piaggio, with the usual gear retraction and extension, and I have never seen that up to now.

Hopefully it was a temporary glitch.

  I suppose it is possible you retracted it to late and it was damaged? Not sure if that is modelled.

Edited January 23, 20215 yr by Glenn Fitzpatrick