I know this subject has been discussed ad nauseam, but I'm almost at the end of the internet with no joy on this subject.  I have tried every slope/curve shape, sensitivity setting and I still find myself fighting this.  It is especially egregious on final approach where I try my best to get the trim set, but making slight adjustments with the yoke (MS Sidewinder joystick for me), it reaches the zone in the sensitivity curve that is much more vertical than horizontal - meaning that the slightest movement in my joystick equates to a significant movement in aircraft yoke and pitches up and down as I try to correct.  My landings are literally grotesque when trying to flare on touchdown.  It is more pronounced in the Carenado Seminole, but because I'm now focused on this, it seems like all aircraft do it to some extent.  I did also try Joystick Curves II, but once it's set-up, I achieve pretty much the same thing as I get with the MSFS settings - the curves are basically the same shape.  I use this same joystick in XP11 and don't seem to have a sensitivity issue (I only mention this to mean that I "think" my joystick is not faulty).

The only thing I haven't tried yet is FSUIPC7.  I read where you can actually set the offset movement on the aircraft yoke to match closely to the joystick movement along the entire length of the curve.  I have purchased FSUIPC7, but haven't yet had time to see if I can make it happen.

I guess my point of this thread is to see how others are coping.  Since there isn't a recent thread concerning MSFS control sensitivity, maybe I'm not doing something right, but again, I have tried pretty much everything I can find on the subject here at AVSIM.  I solicit all input.  Thanks for listening!

My sensitivity seems ok except for one payware aircraft if I barely touch the controls it's all over the place.  But that's just one aircraft so I make do.

It sounds like your out of trim.

You should not be runing out to the outter edges of your controls. It seems your not triming enough, because if you trim correctly you can fly the glide slop with no stick inputs..well only to correct for wind. That should leave you to do a small controled flare.

Try flying the approach  only using trim for pitch. If your trimed correctly you should be able to take your hand of the stick. Not that you should but the point is the aircraft should not pitch down or up.

Edited June 29, 20214 yr by Nyxx

22 minutes ago, Nyxx said:

It sounds like your out of trim.

You should not be runing out to the outter edges of your controls. It seems your not triming enough, because if you trim correctly you can fly the glide slop with no stick inputs..well only to correct for wind. That should leave you to do a small controled flare.

Try flying the approach  only using trim for pitch. If your trimed correctly you should be able to take your hand of the stick.

I will definitely give that a shot and report back.  I thought I provided enough trim to keep it in the center zone, but maybe not since I reach the vertical zones of the sensitivity curve.  Thanks for the tip!

For me, this effect was due to 'spiking' with the controller itself.  Over time the potentiometers (pots) will loose sensitivity and induce this type of spotty behavior.  This comes from the physical swiping in the pot itself that leave carbon deposits.  I check the actual view graphic in the windows calibration routine and sure enough I saw a lot of this jerkiness.  I was able to open the joystick to see the pots, then used canned air to blow out the pot.  This worked wonders.

Again, this was my experience.  Some of the new devices makes it almost impossible to access this stuff so I would not know what to do at that point.  I have also seen videos where users really take this stuff apart and actually change the pots to a much higher resolution and quality pot with amazing results.

1 hour ago, Mike S KPDX said:

For me, this effect was due to 'spiking' with the controller itself.  Over time the potentiometers (pots) will loose sensitivity and induce this type of spotty behavior.  This comes from the physical swiping in the pot itself that leave carbon deposits.  I check the actual view graphic in the windows calibration routine and sure enough I saw a lot of this jerkiness.  I was able to open the joystick to see the pots, then used canned air to blow out the pot.  This worked wonders.

Again, this was my experience.  Some of the new devices makes it almost impossible to access this stuff so I would not know what to do at that point.  I have also seen videos where users really take this stuff apart and actually change the pots to a much higher resolution and quality pot with amazing results.

I use the Thrustmaster T 16000m joystick. Hall effects instead of pots, no noise, and no drift. Set it once and that's it. 

Know something?  The best golf I ever played was with an old set of forged blade irons and a persimmon driver.  Then I started chasing newer designs such as investment cast irons, graphite shaft drivers, and offset putters!  I finally learned it just wasn't about the chase......  It was about me!

2 hours ago, Mike S KPDX said:

For me, this effect was due to 'spiking' with the controller itself.  Over time the potentiometers (pots) will loose sensitivity and induce this type of spotty behavior.  This comes from the physical swiping in the pot itself that leave carbon deposits.  I check the actual view graphic in the windows calibration routine and sure enough I saw a lot of this jerkiness.  I was able to open the joystick to see the pots, then used canned air to blow out the pot.  This worked wonders.

Again, this was my experience.  Some of the new devices makes it almost impossible to access this stuff so I would not know what to do at that point.  I have also seen videos where users really take this stuff apart and actually change the pots to a much higher resolution and quality pot with amazing results.

I concur, it's why I'm using my Sidewinder.  The pots on my CH Yoke were shot and were very troublesome in whichever sim I was using.  I cannot rule out pots with my Sidewinder either - it's prob 10 years older than my CH Yoke was...loloooooo.  I'm not cheap, I just like to get as much mileage out of my hardware as I can.  Thanks for your reply!

1 hour ago, Bobsk8 said:

I use the Thrustmaster T 16000m joystick. Hall effects instead of pots, no noise, and no drift. Set it once and that's it. 

I may have to invest in a new stick.  Hall effects would definitely be an improvement over pots.

1 hour ago, fppilot said:

I finally learned it just wasn't about the chase......  It was about me!

Dude...you got me!  My hand moves the stick slightly when I breath, so the plane pitches up or down depending on inhale or exhale; therefore, it's gotta be me. 😉

1 minute ago, SmokeDiddy said:

Dude...you got me!  My hand moves the stick slightly when I breath, so the plane pitches up or down depending on inhale or exhale; therefore, it's gotta be me. 😉

My comment was not about you.  It was about the ever elusive search for equipment....  The Hall sensors thing.

1 minute ago, fppilot said:

My comment was not about you.  It was about the ever elusive search for equipment....  The Hall sensors thing.

hahahahaha...oops...my bad, but your statement is certainly valid either way.  Thanks for clarifying!

3 minutes ago, SmokeDiddy said:

hahahahaha...oops...my bad, but your statement is certainly valid either way.  Thanks for clarifying!

Are you flying exclusively MSFS?  Still have an installation of FSX, P3D, or XP?  If so what is your current experience in those simulators with your controls?

20 minutes ago, fppilot said:

Are you flying exclusively MSFS?  Still have an installation of FSX, P3D, or XP?  If so what is your current experience in those simulators with your controls?

I am trying to move to exclusively use MSFS, but right now, I still use XP11 planned flights because I'm still trying to wrap my hands around MSFS due mainly to the issue with the sensitivity and with photogrammetry/graphics settings  (trying to find a sweet spot with my 20Mb internet service and dated hardware).

A quick update on the sensitivity issue...I was incorrect about thinking FSUIPC7 could fix this issue.  So, I went back in and tweaked the curve profile I set-up in Joystick Curves to make the ends of the curves less vertical and have pretty good results now with the JF Arrow III and the BB Bn-2, but the Carenado Seminole remains a problem child.  The limited default aircraft I have flown don't seem to be as problematic.  I'll not lose any sleep over the Seminole if I never fly it again.  So maybe I'm close at this point.  The advantage Joystick Curves has over the built in sensitivity settings is it has more vertices to manipulate the curve instead of a slider that MS uses.  I'm not going to disregard the fact that my controller pots could be a contributing factor either.

I never answered your question:  My controller seems to work without issues in XP11.

Thanks!

Edited June 29, 20214 yr by SmokeDiddy

5 minutes ago, SmokeDiddy said:

My controller seems to work without issues in XP11.

That answers my question.  Seems to exclude the controller.  For MSFS do you have sensitivities set in more than one place?  Windows?  FSUIPC7?  Controller config software?