I too do not appear to have "Rudder Assist" option, only auto rudder. (edit. Just read previous post which went up as I was typing this. Thanks Bob)

I found that adjusting the extremity dead zone in joystick sensitivities helped.......but........the setting isn't saved so I have to adjust it every session.

Edited April 9, 20224 yr by GaryK

8 minutes ago, Bobsk8 said:

Same thing. 

 

Not the same! Rudder assist would be like what the KA350 uses/Rudder boost, Auto Rudder uses Rudder deflection when using ailerons. Hate to be picky but lets not confuse me any more than I already am. 🙂

20 hours ago, LRBS said:

Check this out before getting a new pot or set, please. You might get lucky. FSUPIC is powerful enough to tone down this known bug of "super twitchy" rudder behavior but if it is a real issue with a worn pot might not be able to help.

 

 

 

 

I might also check this out,

I got a pair of Virpil pedals about a month ago but haven't been able to really dial them in and let me tell these things are built like a tank.

I also have Spadnext, maybe I could use that to dial them in, I just thought of that. Clearly not enough Sim time lately lol

Edit:

I just realized from watching a different YouTube vide that the virpil software has built in response curves. I might have to give this a try first. If anyone reading this has a set of Virpil pedals and has tweaked the response curves in the Virpil software for MSFS I would love to hear what numbers you used

Edited April 9, 20224 yr by RJC68

2 hours ago, Adrian123 said:

Not the same! Rudder assist would be like what the KA350 uses/Rudder boost, Auto Rudder uses Rudder deflection when using ailerons. Hate to be picky but lets not confuse me any more than I already am. 🙂

If you would take the time to see what Asobo defines Auto rudder as  " It states in the menu when you select it " Adjust whether you want rudder controls to be assisted to help maintain level flight when in the air , and help steer the aircraft when on the ground" 

2 minutes ago, Bobsk8 said:

If you would take the time to see what Asobo defines Auto rudder as  " It states in the menu when you select it " Adjust whether you want rudder controls to be assisted to help maintain level flight when in the air , and help steer the aircraft when on the ground" 

Well. Excuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuus me. 🙂

On 4/8/2022 at 6:46 PM, WestAir said:

If your rudders aren't twitchy on any other platform (XP11, P3D, DCS, etc), then you might just be flying an aircraft that has twitchy flight controls. If you find Robert Young's aircraft twitches, or the A32NX from FBW twitchy, or the DC-6 from PMDG twitchy, then I'd consider taking Al's advice above me. If however you find any of those well-modeled aircraft fair - or find every other sim fair - the problem is not on your end at all.

Robert Young or any other FDE knowledgeable Dev is free to correct me here, but AFAIK a lot of the default ASOBO or $5 aircraft are very wonky on the yaw and pitch axis. I can't for the life of me keep them on the center-line.

Just tested with this theory and WestAir is correct.  Properly modeled flight dynamics aren't twitch and there's no need for 'Auto-Rudder'.  Case in point the default Baron is all over the place at times in a slight cross wind but Rob Young's modified G36 there's no problem.  The Cessna 414 will run off the runway on landing with a cross wind no matter how you try to pull it back so you do have to consider default, beta, and fully developed flight dynamics.🙂

On 4/8/2022 at 1:06 PM, goon said:

I'm using Logitech G940 pedals and having a problem with sensitivity. I can't seem to dial out them being super twitchy, resulting in wild yawing on take off unless I'm really, really careful.

If your pedals are spiky, you very well could have a bad potentiometer.  But if your issue is primarily sensitivity, you're not alone.  Many aircraft in this sim have issues with oversensitivity on one or more axes.

Try this: in the in-sim control sensitivity settings, do NOT add any sort of curves.  No kind of curve can feel natural.  Instead, the magic setting you want to adjust is "extremity dead zone".  Add a positive extremity dead zone of around 30% and see how that feels. 

Welcome back. I recently got back after nearly a decade off as well (I skipped the whole P3D thing...) 

It's a great new scene now, but once you are caught up on what' s what, it's a slow moving thing but will certainly go to great new places now with MSFS which is out of the box superb.

5 hours ago, Dillon said:

Just tested with this theory and WestAir is correct.  Properly modeled flight dynamics aren't twitch and there's no need for 'Auto-Rudder'.  Case in point the default Baron is all over the place at times in a slight cross wind🙂

The same goes for JPLogistics Cessna 152, it's impossible to handle in crosswinds without autorudder , it even capsizes if the wind are to strong.

10 hours ago, Stearmandriver said:

If your pedals are spiky, you very well could have a bad potentiometer.  But if your issue is primarily sensitivity, you're not alone.  Many aircraft in this sim have issues with oversensitivity on one or more axes.

Try this: in the in-sim control sensitivity settings, do NOT add any sort of curves.  No kind of curve can feel natural.  Instead, the magic setting you want to adjust is "extremity dead zone".  Add a positive extremity dead zone of around 30% and see how that feels. 

Tried this today on the JF Arrow, it it worked great.  I had -58 for sens and set it to zero and dead zone to +30%... Nice. 

Edited April 10, 20224 yr by Bobsk8

11 hours ago, Stearmandriver said:

If your pedals are spiky, you very well could have a bad potentiometer.  But if your issue is primarily sensitivity, you're not alone.  Many aircraft in this sim have issues with oversensitivity on one or more axes.

Try this: in the in-sim control sensitivity settings, do NOT add any sort of curves.  No kind of curve can feel natural.  Instead, the magic setting you want to adjust is "extremity dead zone".  Add a positive extremity dead zone of around 30% and see how that feels. 

How did come across this magic? lol It actually makes a lot of sense I just would never have thought to try it.

I have put an S-Curve in for my rudder pedals through my Virpil Software and they are way better but I just did a quick test with your suggested settings for my Honeycomb Yoke & Airbus sidestick and it feels really nice. Will definitely be testing this further.

Thank you !

1 hour ago, RJC68 said:

How did come across this magic? lol It actually makes a lot of sense I just would never have thought to try it.

I have put an S-Curve in for my rudder pedals through my Virpil Software and they are way better but I just did a quick test with your suggested settings for my Honeycomb Yoke & Airbus sidestick and it feels really nice. Will definitely be testing this further.

Thank you !

I am with you, I never even thought about the extremity  dead zone settings because frankly I had no idea what it did. I just tried this on the elevator setting on the JF Arrow and it handles much better. 

 

Now the bad news. When you set extremity dead zone, and start a new flight after restarting MSFS 2020, the setting disappears and it resets back to zero.. Bummer. 

 

I just read on the MSFS forum that this issue had been fixed in the latest Beta. 

Edited April 10, 20224 yr by Bobsk8

On 4/8/2022 at 10:32 PM, Bobsk8 said:

If your pedals are noisy, the pots are probably going bad or need replacing. If you can try a new set of pedals, your problem will probably go away. 

Before you resort to replacing pots, try cleaning them, the issue is often caused by a bit of dust or dirt the contact tracks; you can use a blast of compressed air or a small blast of something like WD-40 electrical maintenance spray to clean.

In the past I've bought vintage electric guitars which had that problem and were on sale at a big discount because of it; after a spray they were perfectly fine. Most people know that trick these days, but years ago you could pick up some real bargains from people who didn't know that would fix the issue. That's how I got my 1960s Hofner Violin bass for next to nothing, and they go for a lot of money now. 😉

Another possibility is the USB socket you have them in. These can sometimes get worn if you plug and unplug a lot of things in them all the time; that can lead to unexpected issues and it isn't always obvious that's the cause if you do experience it.

Edited April 10, 20224 yr by Chock

Best bet is contact cleaner. Cleans the old carbon out.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=asc_df_B000BXOGNI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198054130793&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3833584356671184890&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017930&hvtargid=pla-379166032540&psc=1

23 minutes ago, Chock said:

Before you resort to replacing pots, try cleaning them, the issue is often caused by a bit of dust or dirt the contact tracks; you can use a blast of compressed air or a small blast of something like WD-40 electrical maintenance spray to clean.

In the past I've bought vintage electric guitars which had that problem and were on sale at a big discount because of it; after a spray they were perfectly fine. Most people know that trick these days, but years ago you could pick up some real bargains from people who didn't know that would fix the issue. That's how I got my 1960s Hofner Violin bass for next to nothing, and they go for a lot of money now. 😉

Another possibility is the USB socket you have them in. These can sometimes get worn if you plug and unplug a lot of things in them all the time; that can lead to unexpected issues and it isn't always obvious that's the cause if you do experience it.

Some of the pots in controllers, are sealed, and you can't reach the insides with compressed air or cleaner without taking the control apart. If the carbon is worn or pitted, it just needs to be replaced. 

Edited April 10, 20224 yr by Bobsk8