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Krister

Another plea for feedback!

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So, my i5-2500K@4,2 with Asus P8Z68 mobo and Asus 660Gti has served my flightsimming needs well since since 2011 but with PMDG 747 around the corner and wanting to try P3D it's time to move on!

 

I'm looking at this setup:

 

CPU:   i7-7700K 4,2 Ghz LGA1151

MoBo:  Asus Strix Z270F

Video:  Asus Strix GTX 1070  (ordering these three items will give me a €130 cash back)

Storage:  Samsung 850 EVO 512 GB or 1 TB

Chassi:  Fractal Design Define R5

PSU:  Corsair RM750x, 80PLUS gold 750W

Cooler: haven't decided yet but have a Corsair H80 in my current setup that has worked flawlessly, so perhaps the Corsair H100i GTX V2

 

But the choice of memory is a jungle! The G.Skill F4-3600C16D-16GVK is my candidate right now and I'd be grateful for any comment on wether it would work well with the rest of the components!? 

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Looks good, the faster the RAM the better though I'm not sure how much that will help in P3D. You can also drop down to a 550W PSU and still be good if you want to save a few bucks.

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Thanks! But I consider the PSU to be probably the most vital part of the system in order to keep it stable so I'm not skimping on that! :) I currently have a Corsair 850AT 

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Krister, you are right to stay with a higher output PSU, the 1070 recommends a 500W supply as absolute minimum and you might want to give yourself some room to overclock. The 7700K will overclock at least a little, and every cycle you can increase the speed, the better your experience will be.

 

I am looking at a rebuil in the near future. Your spec looks similar to my ideas as they stand currently :)

 

I would suggest getting the larger of the two SSD's, 512Gb might be too limiting, especially if you are planning on putting the OS on it as well...

 

A

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Krister, you are right to stay with a higher output PSU, the 1070 recommends a 500W supply as absolute minimum and you might want to give yourself some room to overclock. The 7700K will overclock at least a little, and every cycle you can increase the speed, the better your experience will be.

 

I am looking at a rebuil in the near future. Your spec looks similar to my ideas as they stand currently :)

 

I would suggest getting the larger of the two SSD's, 512Gb might be too limiting, especially if you are planning on putting the OS on it as well...

 

A

Thanks for your feedback Andrew!

 

Indeed, I had a 450W PSU with my earlier system and anytime I tried to overclock the system would come to a screetching halt. Got the Corsair 850 and no more problems!

 

I currently have a Samsung 256 GB SSD that I managed to put win10, fsx (incl ORBX) and fs9 on. But yeah, I'd be paiting myself into a corner in the end.

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Indeed, I had a 450W PSU with my earlier system and anytime I tried to overclock the system would come to a screetching halt. Got the Corsair 850 and no more problems!

 

FWIW, that's more due to build quality than wattage. Power Supplies are not made equal, as you've discovered. While you're spending money, do yourself a favor and spend $20 on a Kill-A-Watt. If you're pulling over 250W from the wall at full load, I'll be shocked.

 

(And the Kill-A-Watt is handy around the house to find your stealth power monsters.)

 

Cheers!

 

Luke

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FWIW, that's more due to build quality than wattage. Power Supplies are not made equal, as you've discovered. While you're spending money, do yourself a favor and spend $20 on a Kill-A-Watt. If you're pulling over 250W from the wall at full load, I'll be shocked.

 

(And the Kill-A-Watt is handy around the house to find your stealth power monsters.)

 

Cheers!

 

Luke

 

Exactly, I have never gone over ~400W usage on my build in normal circumstances.

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Yeah, Luke is spot on!  The better the Power Supply, the better the rig.

 

One of the best articles I've seen on PC Power Supplies is HERE.  Great info, and there is a list there of the better power supplies.  One thing important is what the author says about matching the power supply to the load (I think Luke was heading that way). To be honest, it's not something I ever gave much thought to before, but I will in the future.

 

 

Water Cooling

 

Like you, I love the Corsair Coolers. My I7-960 had the H80, and I run the H110 on my i7-4770K and after a year running only Turbo to 4.3GHz I now have all 4 cores running full time at 4.3GHz and my temps only went up a few couple of degrees C - always under 48C even at the highest FSX/P3D loads. I use Hardware Monitor to monitor the temps and CPU/GPU.  I believe there are better water coolers available, but I'm not sure my system or the one you're planning to build requires more than what the Corsair provides. Still... if money is no object, I'd shop around.

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Yeah, Luke is spot on!  The better the Power Supply, the better the rig.

 

One of the best articles I've seen on PC Power Supplies is HERE.  Great info, and there is a list there of the better power supplies.  One thing important is what the author says about matching the power supply to the load (I think Luke was heading that way). To be honest, it's not something I ever gave much thought to before, but I will in the future.

 

 

Water Cooling

 

Like you, I love the Corsair Coolers. My I7-960 had the H80, and I run the H110 on my i7-4770K and after a year running only Turbo to 4.3GHz I now have all 4 cores running full time at 4.3GHz and my temps only went up a few couple of degrees C - always under 48C even at the highest FSX/P3D loads. I use Hardware Monitor to monitor the temps and CPU/GPU.  I believe there are better water coolers available, but I'm not sure my system or the one you're planning to build requires more than what the Corsair provides. Still... if money is no object, I'd shop around.

 

It should be noted that I never advocated for a lower quality PSU but lower wattage since the proposed build will barely break 400W if that.

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What you need to be careful of is the number of rails and the output on each rail. If you have a multi-rail PSU and one rail gets overloaded, it can cause a lot of headaches, as it is not easy to track down. Even though the combined output of the PSU is sufficient, it can often turn out that one rail provides too little for one of the devices. I have always fared well with single rail units.

 

Indeed, 850W is a little overkill for such a system, though, why not keep it if it is a good quality unit?

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Thank you guys for all the feedback! The reason why I picked this PSU is that 1) I like Corsair 2) it's modular 3) is reasonably priced 4) is 80 Plus rated and has received good reviews, eg this.

 

The Corsair 850XT is now in my "office" computer together with the Asus 660 video card, since my AMD Radeon HD5870 and the Thermaltake 530W 80 Plus PSU (some 6 months old) decided to check out at the same time.

 

I'm actually more concered about picking the right memory modules! I guess I can't go wrong with G.Skill ripjaw but what would be a suitable set in the €150-200 bracket? 16GB should suffice I guess.

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I'm actually more concered about picking the right memory modules! I guess I can't go wrong with G.Skill ripjaw but what would be a suitable set in the €150-200 bracket? 16GB should suffice I guess.

 

A lot of board manufacturers have  a list of memory the board has been tested and certified with . I would start there. usually in the boards manual if you can download it.

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The components arrived yesterday and for some reason it coincide with my wife taking the kids and the dog and going away to her parents for five days!  I started assembling everything only to take a pause after a while to take off my outerwear. When I slide the video card out of the anti-static bag something fell to the floor. A fan blade!  I decided a missing fan blade is more serioious on a RR Trent 900 than my Asus 1070 so I continued. But now the Asus Z270 refuses to boot and the POST LED indicates a CPU failure with my shiny new i7 7700K. What can you possible do wrong when fitting the CPU? It only fits in one way and the Corsair H100i v2 shouldn't be able to break it. Of course the CPU can simply be DOA which means waiting a couple of weeks for replacement IF it's proven DOA. I guess it could still be the mobo too that is funky.

 

Anyone with any ideas I could try?!

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Man I feel for you, that's frustrating. My concern would be did the fan blade break off because the package got handled roughly, ie was there other damage to other things?

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One other thought... is the BIOS that came loaded on the board compatible with your i7700K CPU?  I have purchased MoBos from ASUS in the past and had to use the USB BIOS Flashback capability to install the latest BIOS before the board could recognize the new CPU.  Just throwing this out there since I haven't researched your board/CPU compatibility.

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Any mobo with the Z270 chipset should be 7700K-ready out of the box.

 

Remove the CPU.  Make sure the socket area has no dust/lint etc--if there is, remove it by blowing it out with air. 

 

Take a magnifying glass and look for a bent/broken/missing pin in the socket.  If there is socket damage, the mobo will need to go back, and depending on the retailer, socket area damage may make it unreturnable to them. 

 

Reseat the mobo power connector, and if it's a modular PSU, do it on both ends of the cable.

 

Make sure that nothing on the back of the motherboard is touching the metal mobo mounting tray.  CPU cooler backplates are notorious for this.

 

Good luck

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Man I feel for you, that's frustrating. My concern would be did the fan blade break off because the package got handled roughly, ie was there other damage to other things?

I was gentle and let it slide out of the anti-static box more than pulling/grabbing. But you never know, I was like a child on opening up christmas presents and you know what that looks like...

 

One other thought... is the BIOS that came loaded on the board compatible with your i7700K CPU?  I have purchased MoBos from ASUS in the past and had to use the USB BIOS Flashback capability to install the latest BIOS before the board could recognize the new CPU.  Just throwing this out there since I haven't researched your board/CPU compatibility.

I've read several tests where this mobo has been tested with the very same CPU and no BIOS issues has been raised, so I think not. 

 

Any mobo with the Z270 chipset should be 7700K-ready out of the box.

 

Remove the CPU.  Make sure the socket area has no dust/lint etc--if there is, remove it by blowing it out with air. 

 

Take a magnifying glass and look for a bent/broken/missing pin in the socket.  If there is socket damage, the mobo will need to go back, and depending on the retailer, socket area damage may make it unreturnable to them. 

 

Reseat the mobo power connector, and if it's a modular PSU, do it on both ends of the cable.

 

Make sure that nothing on the back of the motherboard is touching the metal mobo mounting tray.  CPU cooler backplates are notorious for this.

 

Good luck

I will check the pins one more time but everything looked intact and clean when I had the CPU removed. The first time I put the CPU down it was 90 degrees off but I never put any kind of pressure on, since I immediately noticed it was the wrong way. The PSU is a modular Corsair RM650i and I had all the cables removed once, but I'll try with the other computer's Corsair 850XT too.  The first time I connected the PSU I accidentally forgot to connect the 8 pin +12V cable to the mobo and I switched the computer on, but that shouldn't cause any problems. The chassi fans simply didn't turn (the CPU fans on the Corasir H100 did though).

 

Anyways, thanks for the feedback. If push come to shove I simply have to sell some more fibre broadband connections in my spare time to finance another CPU...

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Make sure that nothing on the back of the motherboard is touching the metal mobo mounting tray.  CPU cooler backplates are notorious for this.

 

This!  Your problem sounds like a classic case of a short between the motherboard and case.  Before giving up on the CPU (or anything else) remove the motherboard from the case and set-up everything to run on the bench (or table top).

 

HTH

 

Greg

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This!  Your problem sounds like a classic case of a short between the motherboard and case.  Before giving up on the CPU (or anything else) remove the motherboard from the case and set-up everything to run on the bench (or table top).

 

HTH

 

Greg

Will do! I have a Fractal  Design R5 ATX case and the interestingly enough the holes in the mobo for the stand offs (on the side where the sata connectors are) is about 1 cm away from where the standoffs actually are in the case. It only means I have to be ever so gently when I apply pressure to insert the memory sticks and cables but still it gives me a feeling that something else could go wrong too...

 

 

Edit: put the mobo on the card board box on a table, inserted the CPU, memory sticks and connected the water cooler, PSU still in the chassis, 24 pin and 8 pin +12V cable to the mobo. But the POST_LED CPU still has a steady red light. Well, it was worth a try.

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I was gentle and let it slide out of the anti-static box more than pulling/grabbing. But you never know, I was like a child on opening up christmas presents and you know what that looks like...

 

I was thinking more the delivery people, but yeah I know the feeling!

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Stayed up until 06:30 in the morning trying to fix this but I'm at wits end. Actually,

 

ONCE did the CPU_LED POST light not turn red and it continued and finally showed green which I translate as a successfull boot.  I didn't have any monitor or hard drive attached so I could't procede. The only thing I did different before it (probably) booted was noting that the 24 pin cable wasn't fully pushed in since the little plastic piece that locks it into position hadn't locked.

 

So I figured the problem was since that the mobo is quit short and isn't supported by stand offs underneath all the way, I was too careful when pressing the 24 pin cable and didn't press it hard enough.  But today I tried again with the mobo out of the case, even with another PSU that I know is working, but the red LED remains lit. Argh!!

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Problem is fixed. The vendor noticed debris in the processor socket and having cleaned it, it posts correctly. I also tried looking for debris and cleaned it with air but I guess I should have gotten myself a magnifying glass first!

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