2 hours ago, MarkW said:

Are you sure?  The information I had on this cooler was the the heat transfer material was pre-applied and all you had to do was install it.  My temps are very low (stock 4.7 overclock).

That's correct.   I think what Dan is saying is that you could opt to use your own paste, if you wanted.

I use the H115i also.  I just used the paste it came with and the temps are fine.  I'm not overclocking to 5.0 though.

I can't believe all the misinformation in this thread. The bottom line is leave HT on and forget all the tweaks. Try it, you'll like it..............

48 minutes ago, Mace said:

That's correct.   I think what Dan is saying is that you could opt to use your own paste, if you wanted.

I use the H115i also.  I just used the paste it came with and the temps are fine.  I'm not overclocking to 5.0 though.

Thanks for confirming.  The instructions are just terrible, I spent all kinds of time looking around for the paste and then the screws were loose when I finally hooked it up.  Had to do a lot of internet research to figure out everything was done correctly and it was just a simple install with the correct back plate.  I wish they put 20%  as much effort into the install instructions as they do into the product.

Edited March 21, 20188 yr by MarkW

I have I7-6700 CPU 4.00GHz with EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 Superclocked..with all my addons on it ,and without any tweaks in cfg file P3D v4.2 run smooth like butter...

2 hours ago, W2DR said:

I can't believe all the misinformation in this thread. The bottom line is leave HT on and forget all the tweaks. Try it, you'll like it..............

+1    Also, deleting Prepar3d.cfg and shaders folder content helps a lot to solve many problems.

Mike

Hope that was that easy, you have tousands of differnt hardware configs and then the personal config of P3D.

to say that HT on or off is the way to go is not easy.

if you run a 4790k at 4.5ghz with mid level gpu like 1060, compared with a 8700k at +5.0ghz and 2X1080ti or I9 7980XE with 3way SLI do you really think you can run the same settings?

for example i run my 7980XE 5.0ghz (18cores/32treads) with HT off and my second sim PC 8700K at 5.3ghz with HT on, both with 2x1080ti i have slightly higher fps with the 8700k but the loadtimes is faster with the 7980XE and i use only 10 of the 18cores (physical cores no HT) for P3D.

Its up to each to judge wath is best for their setup, i my case i favor loadtimes before higher oc with the 8700k and opposite with the 7980XE prefer higher fps,higher OC with less heat i ( thats personal touhgts) have no use for 32treads with 200 mhz lower OC and higher temps and powerdraw

edit: the 8700K is delidded pretested 5.3ghz very very rare.

        7980XE binned OEM cpu delidded, 7920X binned ES sample delidded

Edited March 21, 20188 yr by westman

19 hours ago, MarkW said:

Are you sure?  The information I had on this cooler was the the heat transfer material was pre-applied and all you had to do was install it.  My temps are very low (stock 4.7 overclock).

Probably, but I didn't have this bit of information at hand.  Mostly irrelevant now because the install as new was on a 6700K and since then I have it mounted to an 8700K on a new mobo.  Thinking about it I think I actually did read somewhere a recommendation to clean both surfaces and apply 3d party thermo paste but like much else on the internet that may have been unsubstantiated.

Regarding instructions... agree totally.  No where do they tell you how to connect the power and you are left wondering why the connection to the fan power is a single wire.  Also, I noted when last removing case covers that one of the backside "nuts" that are supposed to be seated in the backside spacer had slipped through the spacer and was tightened against the mobo material..... explains why my cooler block had to be retightened several times.

Apologies to OP for being OT

Edited March 21, 20188 yr by downscc

5 hours ago, downscc said:

 

Regarding instructions... agree totally.  No where do they tell you how to connect the power and you are left wondering why the connection to the fan power is a single wire.  Also, I noted when last removing case covers that one of the backside "nuts" that are supposed to be seated in the backside spacer had slipped through the spacer and was tightened against the mobo material..... explains why my cooler block had to be retightened several times.

 

I had the slip through issue as well, apparently its normal but really strange and nothing about it in the instructions.