Hi, I bought, via Amazon here in the UK, a motherboard package comprising Asus P8Z77 - V LX with an i7 3770k, 4GB of DDR3 RAM and an Arctic 13 cooler. This was supposedly o/ced to a max of 4.4GHz at full load using Intel's turbo mode but is actually hitting 4.55GHz.

 

My son-in-law installed it in my Antec 300 case and having got it all set up it runs FSX brilliantly with good frame rates but more importantly smooth flying.

 

I recently used the latest version of RealTemp to check the CPU temps and was horrified to see that one one core it had reached 100C with one other core in the 90s! I have e-mailed the supplier who is here in the UK and has a good record for support and am awaiting their reply.

 

The case is well ventilated with two 120mm fans in close proximity to the CPU cooler/fan arrangement and I really cannot see how I could improve it. I've used the Asus utility to increase the CPU fan speed to its maximum.

 

I think that reducing the max CPU speed down to, say, 4.2GHz might help with these temps and I've asked the supplier how to do this. I've been into the BIOS but cannot see any obvious way of doing it. Does anyone here know this board who would be able to tell me the necessary steps please, in case the supplier doesn't come through?

 

Iain Smith

 

 

Hi there,

 

you can download and install the asus ai suite here: http://uk.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z77V/#download

Within this you have turbo-v and can reduce your clock speed.

 

IvyBridge CPU's are running much hotter than sandybridges and aren't good for overclocking. Have had my i5 2500k @4500MHz but my i7 3770k is running @4300MHz.

 

I have the Corsair H100 water/air hybrid cooling and the cpu barely getting hotter than 85 degree.

 

Also Intel cpu's do lower the clockspeed if getting too hot; so don't worry about it.

 

 

Edit: In BIOS you'll find these options in tuning menu somewhere. Just have a look in the manual (also downloadable on their website).

Thank you gnomegemini, I'll take your advice. I think I have the Asus Ai suite on the setup disc and I also have the manual so I should be ok. Thanks again for your response.

 

Iain

Just install some water cooling system and you are good to go, air cooling is pretty much obsolete these days (for high end PCs).

If RealTemp is reporting 100°C or more at load, then there is something badly wrong with the overclock setup. You are hitting Tj max and are doing long term if not irreparable damage to the CPU. Remember that Ivy Bridge CPUs do not have as good thermal interface as Sandy Bridges. Serious overclocking of IBs can only be achieved through delidding the CPU (GUARANTEE LOSS!) and replacing the TIM. Lapping (polishing the upper surface of the CPU heatspreader) can be of advantage as well.

 

Who assembled the mainboard and cooler? Perhaps the cooler hasn't been seated properly or tightened down enough. How much experience at PC building does the person have who assembled the PC?

 

I see from artic.ac that the cooler comes with paste pre-applied. I am not sure about how effective the material is. Perhaps you might want to try with some overclock-capable compound, like IC Diamond Pro or something.

 

You need to back down from those temperatures, or your CPU will simply fail...

 

A

Just install some water cooling system and you are good to go, air cooling is pretty much obsolete these days (for high end PCs).

Sorry, but I have to disagree... you just need to get the right cooler for the job. I am running a Sandy Bridge at 4.8GHz on air cooling, using a Noctua NHD14 with 2 fans in push-pull mode. Granted, it is not as effective on the thermally challenged Ivy Bridge, water cooling is not everyone's cup of tea...

 

A

Sorry, but I have to disagree... you just need to get the right cooler for the job. I am running a Sandy Bridge at 4.8GHz on air cooling, using a Noctua NHD14 with 2 fans in push-pull mode. Granted, it is not as effective on the thermally challenged Ivy Bridge, water cooling is not everyone's cup of tea...

 

A

Agree it's not everyone's cup of tea, there is risk of leakage, it's a little bit harder to install than air cooler (in my experience)... but at the other side you can replace almost all air coolers with one water cooling system, so you get rid of dust and high noise, and if you compare with high end air coolers, price tag is a little bit lower.

 

But, lets agree to disagree :smile:

As far as I know the Intel CPU cycles down at temps >100°. Some mobo's has an option to slow down at 95 or 90 degree.

 

I considered buying a water cooling system but it was much more expensive for gpu+cpu than my Corsair H100 hybrid one.

 

 

Who assembled the mainboard and cooler? Perhaps the cooler hasn't been seated properly or tightened down enough. How much experience at PC building does the person have who assembled the PC?

 

The motherboard/CPU/Cooler and memory was assembled here in the UK by this company:-

 

http://www.awd-it.co.uk/

 

I have had very good support from them and they have a good reputation. I (and they) were wondering if the cooler had moved in transit and partially broken the thermal contact.

 

However, having reduced the clock setting from 4.55GHz to 4.4GHz the temps have dropped by 10 degrees. Now I know how to do it I can take it down to 4.2GHz and shave a few more degrees off.

 

If that doesn't work I'll take it in to one of the local PC specialists and ask them to sort it and send the supplier the bill.

 

Iain

Just install some water cooling system and you are good to go, air cooling is pretty much obsolete these days (for high end PCs).

 

And how do you remove the heat from the water? ^_^

 

Iain

What is the voltage?

 

 

And how do you remove the heat from the water?

Water cooling consists of a pump, 2 hoses (one with coolant going toward the cpu and the other moving coolant away from the cpu), a radiator and of course the thermal connection to the CPU (like any air cooler also has). In a good water cooling setup there is one fan pushing air into the radiator and another sucking the hot air out of the radiator (push-pull system) and exiting the rear of your case.

Corsair Hydro series (get the model 100) is good, as is the Antec 920. At 4.7 - 4.8GHz, the Antec 920 keeps my cpu temps in the low-to-mid 60's while FSX'ing.

If you're not very handy working with hardware, get a pro to install it for you. Takes about 20-30 minutes.

What is the voltage?

 

1.28 with an offset of +0.03.

 

Iain

Agree it's not everyone's cup of tea, there is risk of leakage, it's a little bit harder to install than air cooler (in my experience)... but at the other side you can replace almost all air coolers with one water cooling system, so you get rid of dust and high noise, and if you compare with high end air coolers, price tag is a little bit lower.

 

But, lets agree to disagree :smile:

 

I disagree...  The cooling system runs to a radiator which is then layered in fans to dissipate the heat from the radiator...  You get the same dust and high noise out of the radiator system that you would running internal fans.  The difference is the dust is in the radiator instead of the case so you essentially move the dust from one spot to another you don't get rid of it. Cleaning my radiator is ALWAYS an eye opening experience.  Fans are still a necessary evil so you don't get rid of those either.  In fact one of my liquid systems was louder than any air system because of the fans on the radiator.  I have since replaced that Koolance system.  What you do get is more efficient cooling...  As for price, a GOOD liquid cooling system is not cheaper than air cooling in my experience.  ESPECIALLY when you factor in liquid cooling blocks for your CPU, GPU, memory and even HDD's...  A GPU Cooling block alone can be more expensive than an entire air setup.

 

I still run liquid, don't argue that it is more efficient but I do argue the common arguments that it is "cleaner and quieter"...  6 of one half dozen of another imho...

 

1.28 with an offset of +0.03.

 

Iain

That seems high especially if you are using Turbo mode...  I think the 3770 will bump up to abnormally high voltages when running in Turbo Mode.  That is where I would be focused if the issue is heat...

g_precentralis, on 13 May 2013 - 1:15 PM, said:

Just install some water cooling system and you are good to go, air cooling is pretty much obsolete these days (for high end PCs).

Utter nonsense. Sorry to offend.

 

I have an 17 3770k running at 4.5GHz.

 

It's cooled by an air cooler. A Noctua HH-D14 to be precise.

 

temps under load, in Prime are in the 60's.

 

In FSX the temps are around 55.

iainsmith, on 14 May 2013 - 12:25 PM, said:

iainsmith, on 14 May 2013 - 12:25 PM, said:

1.28 with an offset of +0.03.

 

Iain

My off-set voltage is 0.030. Which gives me 1.304 under full load.

 

Your voltage seems to be lower than mine, so that's not your problem.

 

The Arctic 13 should be about 10 degrees warmer than my NH-D14 under full load. So I would have thought you would see quite reasonable temps.

 

The Cooler not mounted properly would seem to be the most likely scenario.

 

I'd gladly send you my overclock settings if you like?

 

Turbo mode should be enabled, that is not an issue.

My off-set voltage is 0.030. Which gives me 1.304 under full load.

 

Your voltage seems to be lower than mine, so that's not your problem.

 

The Arctic 13 should be about 10 degrees warmer than my NH-D14 under full load. So I would have thought you would see quite reasonable temps.

 

The Cooler not mounted properly would seem to be the most likely scenario.

I think Martin is probably right...  Check that cooler is mounted properly.  I would actually remove it altogether, remove the thermal paste and clean then re-apply the paste and mount it yourself.  Nothing like doing something yourself to know it is done right (or wrong in my case LOL) 

 

martin, are you OC'd using "Turbo" or manual?  I don't trust turbo mode to control voltage lol...