Need help building my new rig!

[1st fltsimguy 466]

I can't help myself.  Nothing to do with the topic which is a very good exchange. But.

 

The parallel between 1960s-1970s car enthusiasts has not escaped me.  Back then (there were no computers of course) it was carburetors, cu. in., type of shifter, linkage, tranny, horsepower, cam, block type and on and on.

 

Just saying, how times have changed.

[martin-w 3,235]

Make sure to take a look at your 980ti GPU choices.  After some research, I decided to purchase the ZOTAC 980Ti Amp Extreme a few days ago.  It's a huge card and you'll need to make sure it fits the PC case, but it's the fastest 980ti out there as far as I'm aware.  I just installed mine last night and it's a big jump in performance compared to the 780ti that it replaced.  

 

Here's one of many reviews:

 

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/zotac_geforce_gtx_980_ti_amp_extreme_review,1.html

 

Good luck!

 

I bet the EVGA Kingpin beats it.

[westman 257]

Zotac 980ti is a nice card,its hard to say as a Asus Guy but the Evga KPE is without any doubts the highest binned 980ti card out there , they can realease a faster bios any time if they want it have more headroom for OC then rest of Cards.

Its the only card with type and vendor of mems high binned on evry card , some Cards have even differnt vendor on the 980ti i now guys that buy 2-3cards before they get the right mems.

The tools you get with it is outstanding.

Its only Evga and Asus that you can get special bios tools etc that is not buggy, and for the public not locked for some guys that get binned ones or send binned Cards for reviews.

 

But for flightsim Its no reason to buy the fastest factory Overclocked card , in real world you dont see much with 40-50mhz difference , you need at least 100-200mhz

[Brian Riggs 16]

I bet the EVGA Kingpin beats it.

Dang it, I've been robbed!!!!

Zotac 980ti is a nice card,its hard to say as a Asus Guy but the Evga KPE is without any doubts the highest binned 980ti card out there , they can realease a faster bios any time if they want it have more headroom for OC then rest of Cards.

Its the only card with type and vendor of mems high binned on evry card , some Cards have even differnt vendor on the 980ti i now guys that buy 2-3cards before they get the right mems.

The tools you get with it is outstanding.

Its only Evga and Asus that you can get special bios tools etc that is not buggy, and for the public not locked for some guys that get binned ones or send binned Cards for reviews.

 

But for flightsim Its no reason to buy the fastest factory Overclocked card , in real world you dont see much with 40-50mhz difference , you need at least 100-200mhz

Agreed, my focus is on the most performance I can get at higher resolutions and then the price for performance of this card when you compare it to all others is hard to beat if you ask me.

[RancidViper 37]

Hi Guys,

 

Apologies for taking awhile, I've been busy clearing out my PC for sale. In the meantime I can see the conversation has gone on but just to get back to some initial concerns that were pointed out by Martin, here is an update:

 

 

 

I would agree with Rich. ROG, or Z170-A Z170 Deluxe Z170 Premium. If you can afford the stunning Maximus VIII Formula you will probably fall in love and want to marry it.

 

I've switched to the GA-Z170 Motherboard ATX. It's not much of a difference in price and does what I need it to, as far as I know.

 

 

 

You can do better. For air, Noctua NH-D15S, zero chance of leaks and no pump to fail after a few years. For water, Corsair H110 would be my choice.

 

I've updated my quote to the Corsair H110i. Again not too much of a difference with the price.

 

 

 

I would suggest RAM designed for Skylake. Namely Ripjaw V 3200 MHz.

 

I've got Ripjaws but unfortunately the fastest they could get hold of was 2666Mhz. I guess it's still better than what I was initially quoted so i'm gonna go with this one.

 

 

 

Don't stand for that nonsense. "They could easily palm you off with a chepo PSU. The PSU is the heart of the system, vital it's a quality unit. Find out the make and model and check out the reviews.

 

The PSU is a Cooler Master G750M? It's Bronze Certified. Any ideas on that one? I am checking some reviews as we speak.

 

EDIT : It's either that or a Corsair RM1000x 1000W which is a bit more expensive, or the Corsair RM 750 Gold Certified.

 

Again, thanks for all your help it's been a great help and much appreciated!

 

Cheers!

[swiesma 625]

1000W is a bit of an overkill if you don't use 2 heavy graphics card in SLI and a lot of other stuff...

 

I am using a Seasonic Gold PSU (https://www.alternate.de/Seasonic/G-Series-G-550W-PCGH-Edition-PC-Netzteil/html/product/1130841)

and 550W is more than enough for a single GPU rack (running an i7 6700k and a 970 GTX at the moment).

 

I would always go for a very quiet / Gold or Platinum rated PSU rather than 1000 W or more...

[vortex681 806]

I've got Ripjaws but unfortunately the fastest they could get hold of was 2666Mhz. I guess it's still better than what I was initially quoted so i'm gonna go with this one.

 

The PSU is a Cooler Master G750M? It's Bronze Certified. Any ideas on that one? I am checking some reviews as we speak.

 

EDIT : It's either that or a Corsair RM1000x 1000W which is a bit more expensive, or the Corsair RM 750 Gold Certified.

 

I'd be happy with the 2666MHz memory as it seems to be the best balance of speed versus price for DDR4. It's the law of diminishing returns - faster than that costs more for an almost imperceptible performance difference. Plus, you could overclock the memory anyway.

 

A gold-certified PSU will be more stable and accurate. That said, I have a bronze-certified unit and it's lasted me several years with quite a big overclock. To see what size PSU you need (and it's usually less than you'd think), take a look at http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator - it seems to include all of the latest components in the calculation.

[martin-w 3,235]

I've switched to the GA-Z170 Motherboard ATX. It's not much of a difference in price and does what I need it to, as far as I know.

 

 

Seems to be a solid performing board at a low price. I'm an Asus fan personally. £93 here in the UK. But you do know you can get the excellent Asus Z170-A for only £116. 20 quid more for an Asus board! I have the Z170-A.

 

https://www.asus.com/uk/Motherboards/Z170-A/

 

 

 

I've updated my quote to the Corsair H110i. Again not too much of a difference with the price.

 

 

The GTX is available. H110i is a great cooler though.

 

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/cooling

 

 

The PSU is a Cooler Master G750M? It's Bronze Certified. Any ideas on that one? I am checking some reviews as we speak.

 

Pros

•Affordable

•750W power

•Good ripple suppression

•Semi-modular design (albeit, a limited one)

•80 Plus Bronze efficiency

•Quite at low loads

•Compact design

 

Cons

•A little noisy at higher loads

•Semi-modular cable design seems too limited and unnecessary

 

Consider that this is a "budget PSU"! Noisier at higher loads... but at 750 watts you'll rarely if ever be at higher loads.

 

 

EDIT : It's either that or a Corsair RM1000x 1000W which is a bit more expensive, or the Corsair RM 750 Gold Certified.

 

It's very true that you don't require that much wattage. As Steafan said, "theoretically" if it's a quality make, then you could get away with 550 Watts. However, it's always sensible to consider future requirements. And it's not easy to determine where technology will tale us in the future. The other point to consider is "efficiency". A higher wattage PSU can put you in the most efficient range of the PSU, usually 50% load. It won't make a huge difference in your electricity bill but something to consider. Especially as PSU's tend to deteriorate over time and reduce output.

 

As for Bronze Efficiency... again, it won't make a huge difference in your electricity bill if you opt for higher efficiency. I'd hypothesis that by the time you made your money back as a result of purchasing a higher efficiency PSU, your PC would be long gone and replaced. But if you stick to bronze it's probably sensible to aim for 650-750 watts to ensure you are in the most efficient range.

 

Personally I'd go for the Corsair RM 750.

 

•Delivered full power at 45°C

•Ultra-quiet operation

•Tight enough voltage regulation on all rails

•High efficiency

•Low ripple at +12V

•Semi-passive mode

•Fully modular

•5 year warranty

•Compatible with the Corsair Link Software (but an extra cable is needed)

•Modular cables are flat and stealth

•Accurate readings of the Corsair Link software

•Nice looks and finish

 

 

 

•Choice of capacitors in the secondary side

•The fan engages rather late

•Limited functionality of the Corsair Link software because the PSU isn't digitally controlled

•3.3V performance in Advanced Transient Response tests

•Corsair Digital Bridge not in the bundle, but including it would raise the price

 

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Corsair/RM750/11.html

[RancidViper 37]

Martin you are a star mate! I think i'll go with the Corsair too. And I think i'm finally satisfied that i'm getting my money's worth. Thank you all for your help! 

Cheers!  :smile:

[martin-w 3,235]

That's great, hope you are satisfied with your new kit.