Jump to content

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

MarkW

Building your own computer - Cheaper?

Recommended Posts

Hi, I live in Canada and wondering if it really is cheaper to build your own computer vs. buying based on your specs from one of the many sites online.I would like to build the following:i5 2500K (OC to 3.8 or 4 with fan cooling....sorry very bad experience with leaky water cooling on last machine)8 gig ram 1333 or 1600500 MB hard drive Thinking about 160 MB SSD for Flight sim (not sure if it really makes things faster though)1 Gig video card GTX 570 (unless you guys recommend cheaper card that works just as well for FSX - 470 perhaps)Windows 7 home, 64 bit27" screen.800 Watt powerNormal bland case, could care less about this.Standard CD Rom driveWhat do you guys think? Priced at Ibuypower for $1900 including 20% overclocking.Mark.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The thing to do is simply see how cheap you could get the parts and then work it out. It usually is cheaper to build something yourself, because places that sell them invariably add a mark up and also have to factor in the cost of putting it all together and transporting it to you. The only mitigating factor is that a large place which does that may get a discount on parts if it buys them in bulk, and that includes OEM copies of Windows.I always build my own, and I usually get my bits from Micro Direct in the UK. Clearly you will have to find a computer parts supplier near to you to work out if you can do it cheaper, but so long as there is one near enough to you, I'm guessing you could build one cheaper than you could buy one complete. As noted, keep in mind that you have to also take account of the fact that places which do deals on PCs also get OEM copies of Windows which are only supposed to be sold with a new computer, and these are cheaper, but you can often buy these with a motherboard from parts dealers, so it is possible for you to get them at the same kind of discounted price.As long as you are confident that you can put the parts together, and let's be honest that's not rocket science so long as you take care, then I'd say build it yourself. Buying it complete is okay if that's not the case and you'd prefer not to have the hassle, but you are paying for the convenience of having that done.Al

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There's two major benefits of building your own computer; it IS cheaper and you don't have to worry about whether or not someone else skimped on your parts (and they always do unless you're buying one of those $4000 prebuilt machines).Standard air cooling is all you need to OC an i5-2500k to 4.8 or more. Stephen has his 2600k running at 5.0 with a Prolimatech Megahalems. Concerning motherboards, Z68 will be released this week on the 11th. I would check out either the Asus P8Z68 Deluxe or Pro. Aside from getting you flying quicker, an SSD provides no benefit to FSX. I would recommend using it as the OS drive and installing FSX on a seperate mechanical hard drive. Judging from the FSXMark11 benchmark results, I think even a GTX560 will be fine. For a good looking case for those of us who don't appreciate the "gamer" look, check out the Corsair 650D. It's a bit pricey, but it's solid and you will have it for many many future builds.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not a bad price, but they will use lesser quality components like Corey wrote.Also factor in the operating system ($130 for OEM Win7 premium), but that ibuypower rig isn't a bad price.I'd still build your own however.The parts look good though. I'd get the GTX 570 or 560ti, and not the 4xx series though.Case- the 650D is nice, what I use - but it's pricey. However you pay for convenience and style/brand name.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just did a very quick parts search on newegg and the cost came in at ~$1800 USD. That doesn't include any rebates you might get. If you do a little comparison shopping between Newegg and Tigerdirect you could probably get that down to ~$1650. Having just built a computer for the first time, I have to tell you it was a lot easier than I thought. I was well prepared though watching hours of videos on youtube. I'll never buy a pre-fab computer again. I know my computer inside and out unlike I did with my old HP.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What city do you live in? I use Memory Express for all my parts. They're the cheapest I've found in Canada, and there's three of their stores in my city to boot!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's not bad pricing considering you wouldn't have to build it and it would carry a warranty, otherwise for slightly better components (premium cooler, RAM, branded graphics card, overclocker's motherboard) you could build the same through Newegg and/or Micro Center for about the same price.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a combo deal on newegg.com $486http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.634257You'll have to buy:+$320 SSD+$320 GTX570+$46 4gb Ram+$130 Windows+$300 Monitor+$80 PSU=$1552Now the MB only has 2 slots for RAM so you'll have to buy 2x4GB sticks then sell the RAM that comes with the combo.Same with the PSU. Only a 630w but buy an 800w and sell the 630w.That price is without rebates and shipping. Again some comparison shopping might bring that down a bit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Here's a combo deal on newegg.com $486http://www.newegg.co...st=Combo.634257You'll have to buy:+$320 SSD+$320 GTX570+$46 4gb Ram+$130 Windows+$300 Monitor+$80 PSU=$1552Now the MB only has 2 slots for RAM so you'll have to buy 2x4GB sticks then sell the RAM that comes with the combo.Same with the PSU. Only a 630w but buy an 800w and sell the 630w.That price is without rebates and shipping. Again some comparison shopping might bring that down a bit.
Forget that combo. It is far below what you can get. It has a plastic case, an i5-2500 CPU instead of the i5-2500K CPU (K means that it has an unlocked multiplier so you can clock it up to 4.5 or more GHZ) and an MOBO with H67chipset (H67 is a non-overclocker chipset, so you´ll bounded at 3.7 GHZ). Just look what I or some other guys have in their sig and build it on your own. For mobo I would go for an P8P67 Pro or one of the soon released P8Z68´s.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Forget that combo. It is far below what you can get. It has a plastic case, an i5-2500 CPU instead of the i5-2500K CPU (K means that it has an unlocked multiplier so you can clock it up to 4.5 or more GHZ) and an MOBO with H67chipset (H67 is a non-overclocker chipset, so you´ll bounded at 3.7 GHZ). Just look what I or some other guys have in their sig and build it on your own. For mobo I would go for an P8P67 Pro or one of the soon released P8Z68´s.
Fair enough.http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.639053Add in everything else you need (Windows, monitor, vid card) = ~$1600 before rebates

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The only thing I would add is I wouldn't settle for just the cheapest $50 case. A little attention should give you one with good ventilation, good access to USB or sound ports, and easier to get into if you want to upgrade parts in the future, even if you don't need flashing lights, 10 lbs of Al, etc.I'm not sure what Z68 brings for FSX?If you can get a pre-build that matches your specs, it might be worth it to get a burned-in system with support, but if the builder is just going to assemble parts you spec out, I don't think I would pay a whole lot for that over what I could get it for myself. Other than the occasional panic when you flip the switch and nothing happens (usually due to a delta-sierra mistake) it is kind of rewarding doing it yourself.scott s..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the comments everyone. I think I will skip the SSD if there is no performance difference in FSX. I don't mind waiting a few extra seconds to get up in the air.Mark.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks for the comments everyone. I think I will skip the SSD if there is no performance difference in FSX. I don't mind waiting a few extra seconds to get up in the air.Mark.
For the 1155 platform, you should consider either 1866 or if you can afford it, 2133 MHz memory.My link

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was under the impression from another thread on these forums that anything above 1333 on the ram was of no use in FSX.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Built mine from Microcenter, got my parts cheaper than newegg. I had to fly there though, because they don't have them everywhere, it was raining and I was in the clouds the whole way, but an older guy at the airport I landed at gave me a ride to the store, and I took a cab back, filled the warrior with my stuff and flew back to Muskegon, not a bad trip though and i definitely saved time and money going to Microcenter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Basically, I'd skip on the SSD and get a higher capacity Caviar Black instead. I got my monitor on sale at BestBuy.com for around $200. 4GB RAM should be a minimum. Get yourself a nice 8GB kit with high frequencies (1600+).

not a bad trip though and i definitely saved time and money going to Microcenter.
You saved money flying there? One of the great lies in aviation us pilots like to tell! :Big Grin: "I can get you there cheaper. Err, faster. And Cheaper."

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Basically, I'd skip on the SSD and get a higher capacity Caviar Black instead. I got my monitor on sale at BestBuy.com for around $200. 4GB RAM should be a minimum. Get yourself a nice 8GB kit with high frequencies (1600+).You saved money flying there? One of the great lies in aviation us pilots like to tell! :Big Grin: "I can get you there cheaper. Err, faster. And Cheaper."
Lol, yeah luckily it was student loan money for flying lessons anyway, got 3.4 hours out of the deal and a trip to microcenter so it was a win win.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
What city do you live in? I use Memory Express for all my parts. They're the cheapest I've found in Canada, and there's three of their stores in my city to boot!
I am in north Toronto, looks like Mem Express is a Western thing.Mark.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, so here is a build based on your recommendations. (btw if you guys have a good keyboard, mouse recommendation, please let me know). Prices listed are after discounts. I have three questions in addition:1) How do you know what the correct timings are on the memory you buy? Can this be changed later ?2) How do you know if the power supply is sufficient ?3) Any other cables, etc required, or do they all come supplied with the parts. Does the Corsair case come with case fans ??I have done a lot of parts swapping over the years with my current computers (video cards, hard drives, sound cards, DVD read/write, fans) so the build parts is not really bothering me it is mostly getting the right equipment and the overclocking part.thanks,Mark.Newegg.caCart Item List:Qty. Product Description Savings Total Price2 Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit English 1-PackMicrosoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit English 1-Pack (2nd copy for my current FS computer)$199.98 G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRLG.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory $90.49 Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I52500K $219.99Prolimatech Supermega Intel Socket 1156, 1366 and 775, 6 Dual Heatpipes, Twin Tower CPU Cooler Super Mega CPU Cooler $84.Corsair 750W Power supply. $109ASUS P8P67 PRO (REV 3.0) ATX Intel Motherboard$174.99Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" SATA 3.0Gb/s Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive $87.99MSI GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) N570GTX Twin Frozr III PE/OC Video Card $369.99Corsair Obsidian Series 650D (CC650DW-1) Black Computer Case With Side Panel Window $209.99ASUS Dvd Drive $20Grand Total: $1,566.39

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Prolimatech Supermega Intel Socket 1156, 1366 and 775, 6 Dual Heatpipes, Twin Tower CPU Cooler Super Mega CPU Cooler $84.
I'm not familiar with that cooler, but make sure it's compatible with socket 1155, which is the mobo you have.Otherwise it looks fine. For a single video card, a brand name (ie high quality) power supply will do, 620w/750w will be fine. Look for something with a solid 12v rail... My seasonic x750 has 62A which is overkill for my system but gold plus rated. Yeah that Corsair unit is fine.Your proposed RAM is good. Might want to think about the size of the heatsink and if those ram heat spreaders will cause any problems. I went with the Corsair H60 cooler instead due to its low profile.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the feedback. I will check out other CPU coolers as well. This was a first pass.Mark.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would just go with the regular Megahalems as it's $20 cheaper than the supermega. H60 is also an excellent recommendation and I would consider it equally as much as the Megahalems! It's just a matter of deciding which look you prefer. I highly recommend a sturdy backplate for the Corsair kits. All they come with is a flimsy plastic one that eventually strips out. The Xigmatek Crossbow (ACK-i5361) is perfect! Here it is installed on my motherboard. In addition to something to mount the cooling system to, a backplate should keep the motherboard from flexing as you tighten the screws. This thing is freaking sturdy!CIMG2463.JPGFor the HDD, I would recommend the Samsung Spinpoint F1 1TB. From my understanding, it's just as fast as the WD Caviar Black and a lot of people claim it's quieter. That will save you $13What do you do with the $33 in savings??? You could get faster memory or get a really nice PSU! Neither will affect much of anything performance-wise, but I would opt for the PSU. It's more efficient, it's modular, and when you're troubleshooting a problem in the future, you can be more confident that it's not the power supply giving you trouble. Don't underestimate the convenience of a modular PSU.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One thing I would recommend is reading the publics feedback on the parts you're buying on Newegg. Some are useless but a lot of times you'll pick up some very useful information or suggestions especially with the PSU and Case.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...