brucets

Extreme Overheating I7-7700k

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I started another thread under GPU overheating, but I think a new one is warranted.

    Cooler Master MasterCase 5 Pro chassis   
    ASUS ROG Strix Z270E Gaming system board
    Intel Core i7-7700K Processor 4.2GHz
    ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti STRIX ROG Overclocked 11GB GDDR5X
    1000W Gold power supply with CableMod's ModFlex sleeving
    32GB G.Skill DDR4-3200 RAM
    Intel 600P Series 256GB M.2 SSD's in RAID 0 (512GB)
    2TB WD storage drive
    Corsair Hydro H100i liquid cooler    
    16x Blu-ray DVD Burner Drive
    10/100/1000 Network
    802.11ac Wireless
    Bluetooth 4.1
    Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64-bit

I bought this high end Power Spec PC from Micro Center in DEN Aug 26th and the CPU, in stock form, was getting up to 83c. Also a fan was making loud clicking noises. I sent the unit to Micro Center in Tustin, CA for repair. The lead tech told me the following ---

"The Initial test under Prime95 extreme testing showed temps up to 95c and the Turbo Boost was at 4.8Ghz.. After replacing H60 cooler there was no improvement. Under full stress testing the second time the CPU was still showing temps in the mid 90's C. He could not hear any fan noise.???

He said this is a known issue with Intel and their I7-7700k and Intel's advice is to turn off any overclock including Turbo Boost(considered an overclock by Intel). He said after he disabled Turbo Boost the highest temp registered under extreme Prime 95 stress testing was 62c."

He then shipped the unit back to me. Will arrive tomorrow.

His explanation and remedy didn't make sense to me so I looked on the Intel Community forums and found this thread that has been active for 9 consecutive months -- 1087posts. I saw TechguyMax and Martin W. posted in here as well. Apparently Intel DOES know about this, but really hasn't said anything definitively. Why hasn't this been addressed here in such detail?

https://communities.intel.com/message/450049#450049

Bruce

 

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Is it an H60 (your text) or an H100i (the specs) cooler?  The 60 would be pretty anemic for an overclocked 7700K.

I use a constant-speed custom water loop, and I do see the momentary 20-30 deg spikes when a load is applied, but that doesn't particularly bother me.  But Prime95 at 90+ at stock settings would bother me...running P95 at stock I see temps in the low 60s and at 5.0GHz I see stable temps in the mid-high 70s.  I'd expect 5-10 deg higher on an AIO unit like the H100, but not 95 deg.  Last time I saw an issue like this the builder had failed to removed some plastic protective film from the bottom of the heat sink before applying the TIM and plunking down the heat sink on top of the CPU.  No idea what sort of talent is working in the back room at MC...one reason I have been building my own for decades now.

Anyway, if that's their final call on the problem--stock speeds with turbo turned off, it'd be the last time I bought a computer from that place.  You can buy a bargain-basement off-the-shelf PC that'll do stock speeds without overheating for a whole lot less than that one.

Regards

 

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I'm running high 70s on air at 4.8, mid 70s at 4.5.  One thing I do is run six fans on my case, sucking air in the front and blowing it out the top and back.  One substantial difference I'm running a Gigabyte mainboard. :smile:

blaustern

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20 minutes ago, Bluestar said:

One thing I do is run six fans on my case, sucking air in the front and blowing it out the top and back. 

I agree that cabinet airflow is important and too-often overlooked.  My cases have three huge and near-silent 230mm low-speed fans (on front, side, and top), plus a 140mm fan in back.  The Mastercase 5 Bruce's machine is built in looks OK for airflow.

My external water cooling tower runs six 120mm low-speed fans on two 360mm XSPC radiators plumbed in series.  The CPU and two GTX980Ti video cards all share that common loop.  Very quiet and very effective, at least as far as the 7700K will allow it to be.  I sure miss the old days of using a high-efficiency solder connection from the die to the case spreader.  The GPUs stay in the low 40s at full load on the same loop, despite the fact that each of them generates 2-3 times as much heat as the CPU.

Regards

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Hi Bob!

4 hours ago, w6kd said:

Is it an H60 (your text) or an H100i (the specs) cooler?  The 60 would be pretty anemic for an overclocked 7700K.

I don't know where I got the H60-- in revisiting the specs I now see that it's actually a Corsair Hydro H100i liquid cooler. Anyway it's a non overclocked(stock) I7-7700k.

4 hours ago, w6kd said:

Anyway, if that's their final call on the problem--stock speeds with turbo turned off, it'd be the last time I bought a computer from that place.  You can buy a bargain-basement off-the-shelf PC that'll do stock speeds without overheating for a whole lot less than that one.

Well that's exactly why I started this thread. I wanted to hear that from someone like yourself. I'm not technically knowledgeable, however I thought it was a pretty lame response from a company like Micro Center.

Bruce

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15 hours ago, w6kd said:

Is it an H60 (your text) or an H100i (the specs) cooler?  The 60 would be pretty anemic for an overclocked 7700K.

I use a constant-speed custom water loop, and I do see the momentary 20-30 deg spikes when a load is applied, but that doesn't particularly bother me.  But Prime95 at 90+ at stock settings would bother me...running P95 at stock I see temps in the low 60s and at 5.0GHz I see stable temps in the mid-high 70s.  I'd expect 5-10 deg higher on an AIO unit like the H100, but not 95 deg.  Last time I saw an issue like this the builder had failed to removed some plastic protective film from the bottom of the heat sink before applying the TIM and plunking down the heat sink on top of the CPU.  No idea what sort of talent is working in the back room at MC...one reason I have been building my own for decades now.

Anyway, if that's their final call on the problem--stock speeds with turbo turned off, it'd be the last time I bought a computer from that place.  You can buy a bargain-basement off-the-shelf PC that'll do stock speeds without overheating for a whole lot less than that one.

Regards

 

Bruce,

I have to absolutely agree with everything Bob Scott has said here.

I have been doing this sort of thing for a long time too with the many units I have owned and have read just about every thread on the subject on here and elsewhere and I know I would not buy from those guys ever again either! 

(Brilliant about the plastic!)

Something wrong here.

Kind regards,

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If you can do it from a practical standpoint you might consider my solution which transcends builds, i.e., you will use the same system to enhance cooling big time no matter what PC you're using.  I'm on the 3rd build now over about 11y that uses this method which is quite simple:  I installed a low BTU thru-the-wall a/c unit that my PC case sits about 6" in front of.    It is a Sharp brand unit that has fan only w/ 3 speeds, and a/c with 3 speeds.  During winter when it's cool I often only use fan only.  In the hotter part of the summer I use the a/c.  I get a big drop in CPU temp with this approach, and with a/c on for example my 3930K at 4.4Ghz runs temps no higher than 50F or so on the main cores with HT enabled, and this is w/ a Noctua NH D14 I think it was.   I had fabricated an air channel from the air flow vent in the a/c unit directly to the large fan intake on the HAFX case but when it fell off I found it was unnecessary anyway.

The noise from the unit is there, but when was the last time you flew an airplane or jet and it was all nice and quiet?!  Actually, it's low pitched white noise anyway and I frequently use studio monitors as my spouse isn't nearly as fond of indoor flying as I am!

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Hi Bruce,

I have the same board, CPU and cooler (self build though) and had the same problem as you. I was stunned at the temperatures having previously had a water cooled i5.

Various reports state this processor does run very hot and it seems to be why people de-lid it.

Having spent a few days looking into the issue and options available, it appears our motherboard comes setup ready for a high overclock so it has high voltage settings. I decided to take the route of not overclocking and reduced the voltage way down keeping boost enabled. The temperatures become much more reasonable, but still higher than I would like. I think it needs a much better cooler than ours to overclock.

If you want, I can give you my voltage settings to try.

Best wishes

Steve

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Photos around the forums of the chip side of the 7700k IHS after delidding show what a lottery buying them can be. Some of the photos show quite large areas where there is little (or even no) TIM. This probably accounts for why some people have reasonable temps whilst for others they’re very high.

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Did you buy it on a credit card?  I'd be sending it back and getting a refund.  It's an advertised function of the chip to turbo.  Goods are not fit for purpose

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Stephen - MC custom built this PC 6+ yrs ago and it's still working well. Never dreamed I'd have problems with the new replacement. Didn't see any topics here regarding I7-770k overheating. So I went ahead and purchased it. They now have a complete subsidiary company, Power Spec, that builds  their PC's. In all fairness the I7-7700k does seem to have overheating issues as per the Intel Forum thread quoted above. Now I'm getting the new unit back, probably today, with no fix and Turbo Boost turned off. I would have bought from Jetline, but a similar build would have been $4,200 or so.

 

Noel - I spent some time looking for portable AC units. Doesn't look possible. My computer room is a 5.5' x 8.5' extension of the laundry room. The PC is about 5' from the dryer. I'm in PHX. In the summer the temp in here is a constant 80f which doesn't help.

 

Steve - If you would give me your settings I'll, perhaps, try them. I've never played around in the bios though. Thanks.

 

Charlatan(Elton(?) - Can't return the unit unfortunately. Too late.

Thanks for all the feed back!

 

Bruce

 

 

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Hi Bruce,

If you haven't got Asus Ai Suite 3 installed, install it and then you can mess about with voltages via the TPU option without having to go into the BIOS until you have firmed up what works for your CPU.

The good thing is that the BIOS settings are used at boot up, not the AI Suite 3 settings, so your PC should always start up this way.You can save the Ai Suite 3 settings in a profile and reload the profile after boot up whilst you experiment with what works best, then make the final changes in the BIOS when you are happy.

I have an adaptive Core Voltage setting with an offset of -0.085 and the OC Voltage of 1.134. You may need to tweak yours higher or even lower may be possible but it provides a baseline for you to work around. It took a while to find these settings - its a bit of trial and error.

In Digi+ VRM, I have a Standard Phase Conrol, with the rest at defaults.

You can save the settings in a profile and reload the profile after boot up whilst you experiment with what works best, then make the final changes in the BIOS when you are happy.

Obviously be very careful when changing these setting and triple check what you have done before clicking Apply!

Good luck

Steve

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21 hours ago, brucets said:

I started another thread under GPU overheating, but I think a new one is warranted.

    Cooler Master MasterCase 5 Pro chassis   
    ASUS ROG Strix Z270E Gaming system board
    Intel Core i7-7700K Processor 4.2GHz
    ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti STRIX ROG Overclocked 11GB GDDR5X
    1000W Gold power supply with CableMod's ModFlex sleeving
    32GB G.Skill DDR4-3200 RAM
    Intel 600P Series 256GB M.2 SSD's in RAID 0 (512GB)
    2TB WD storage drive
    Corsair Hydro H100i liquid cooler    
    16x Blu-ray DVD Burner Drive
    10/100/1000 Network
    802.11ac Wireless
    Bluetooth 4.1
    Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64-bit

I bought this high end Power Spec PC from Micro Center in DEN Aug 26th and the CPU, in stock form, was getting up to 83c. Also a fan was making loud clicking noises. I sent the unit to Micro Center in Tustin, CA for repair. The lead tech told me the following ---

"The Initial test under Prime95 extreme testing showed temps up to 95c and the Turbo Boost was at 4.8Ghz.. After replacing H60 cooler there was no improvement. Under full stress testing the second time the CPU was still showing temps in the mid 90's C. He could not hear any fan noise.???

He said this is a known issue with Intel and their I7-7700k and Intel's advice is to turn off any overclock including Turbo Boost(considered an overclock by Intel). He said after he disabled Turbo Boost the highest temp registered under extreme Prime 95 stress testing was 62c."

He then shipped the unit back to me. Will arrive tomorrow.

His explanation and remedy didn't make sense to me so I looked on the Intel Community forums and found this thread that has been active for 9 consecutive months -- 1087posts. I saw TechguyMax and Martin W. posted in here as well. Apparently Intel DOES know about this, but really hasn't said anything definitively. Why hasn't this been addressed here in such detail?

https://communities.intel.com/message/450049#450049

Bruce

 

 

Hi. The issue you refer to on the Intel forum isn't the same as your issue. The brief spikes the Intel forum posts refer to is normal behaviour that some mistakenly regard as an issue.

I'm on my phone so will try to offer more advice tomorrow, but if I were you I would reset to optimised defaults, no overclock. If you still have temp issues there are a number of possible causes to consider. 

Re Turbo... Asus boards handle turbo differently to Intel's implementation. Asus boards have turbo enhancement on by default, even if you reset the BIOS to default. This will mildly OC all cores to the max Intel turbo frequency instead of just one of the cores. The voltage on auto is then higher.

Lots of other things to consider, lile faulty AIO cooler pumps, fans, air in system or even dodgy IHS/die TIM interface

 Hopefully I can suggest something usefull when on my PC tomorrow.

A word on Prime95. Dependent on the version, not a good test. P95 is viscious, it will run AVX2 instruction sets and generate extreme heat. Better to run something like ROG RealBench or just run something like the sim and check temps. Also make a note of your ambient temp. If in a hot climate higher CPU temp is a given.

Run with the latest BIOS too.

Do check the Corsair software for your H100i. How is the fan curve set? What speed is the pump set to? Whats the CPU voltage at stock settings. 

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Steve - Thanks I'll study that and see if I can do something with it.

Martin - Thanks for stepping here. Please remember, though, you're talking to someone who is pretty much in the dark about this stuff -- although I've read many of your posts over the years. :blink:

Bruce

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21 minutes ago, brucets said:

Steve - Thanks I'll study that and see if I can do something with it.

Martin - Thanks for stepping here. Please remember, though, you're talking to someone who is pretty much word not allowed about this stuff -- although I've read many of your posts over the years. :blink:

Bruce

 

Sorry Bruce, on phone. Didn't read entire thread.

Most of the things mentioned are quite easy to be honest.

Sometimes if we want to fix our own issues we have to study a bit, dive in and have a bash. Although I do recognise that many aren't technically minded and find it a bit scary. 

It's actually easier than you think.

 

 

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5 hours ago, brucets said:

I would have bought from Jetline, but a similar build would have been $4,200 or so.

 

I bet it's looking pretty good about now.  :smile:  Jetline maybe a little more money, but they do good work. 

A real world stress test is P3Dv4 in a high load area where the frame rates get dragged down into the mid-20s for a while. 

blaustern

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One option, Bruce, is to have the CPU removed and sent to Silicon Lottery or similar for delidding/binning.  I think SL charges about $50 to professionally delid the CPU and replace the TIM under the heat spreader with good liquid metal stuff.

Regards

 

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blaustern - Hindsight is 20/20, but $4200 is insane. I'm just a casual simmer, or as some would say, a flying gamer! I never learned how to study in school and I'm not going to start now with the so called *study level* ac. I just want great graphics and realistic looking mesh, land class, autogen, AI and airports. Not a pilot now and never will be. I'm getting close to 80 and just want plug & play with realistic visuals. Am perfectly content with default FSX type ac, atc, navigation, etc. I fly in fair weather mostly and, although I have ASN I rarely use it. I use UT2, UTX, GEX, FSG and about 20 Fly Tampa, FSDT, Flight Beam airports. I fly the default jets with the great paints, the QW 757 (Lite), CS 727, 707, 737 -- all using default GPS Direct Nav. The point of all this is maybe I should have purchased a lesser system. :huh:

 

Bob - If I still lived in DEN I'd bring the box down to you, in COS, and pay you to fix it!!! :ampun: I'm not about to take it apart and send the CPU out and re-install it. I take off the side covers to blow it out a couple times a year, but it always looks more complicated than a corn maze in there! Btw, I really enjoyed our short lived CO simmers meetings a few years ago.

Bruce   

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I'm confused here?  You say you bought it late August?  That's about 7-8 weeks tops.  It has a warranty right?  I'm presuming you are in the USA, but we have a thing here in the UK called "The Sale Of Goods Act".  The machine they have supplied you with will not perform to it's specifications.  Surely you have similar?

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Elton -

I live in Phoenix but I bought the PC in Denver on Aug 26th, while visiting. Got the PC back to PHX(900mi from DEN) and hooked up on Sep 15th. It took a full week to load FSX and get all the addons installed, mainly due to problems trying to re-register the addons with a new PC, a different address and a different e-mail -- than when everything was initially purchased. Absolute nightmare! The overheating and fan noise didn't manifest itself until I started flying FSX and playing with the settings. I first contacted Micro Center about the end of Sep. The *full return* policy is 15 days from purchase so I couldn't return it at that point. There is a one year limited warranty on parts, so if a part fails it will be replace at no charge except for labor. There were extended warranty options available for 2 and 3 years for about $200 and $300 but I did not purchase any. So the unit is currently under warranty until Aug 26, 2018. Nothing has failed yet -- so no replacement at this point.

Bruce

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Not good, I wouldn't be settling for that though.  Intel advertise the chip as turbo to 4.5ghz.  The machine they have supplied you will not run at that.  It is faulty end of.  Get them to replace it or refund.

Pity they are so far away from you.  After spending that amount, I would have been at their premises inserting said machine into the assistant's orifice

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Yeah and on top of all this I had to pay $228 to ship it to them --- and then got this response!!

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