Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

The AVSIM Community

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

Is Liquid cooled the new standard

Featured Replies

Getting ready to order a new computer mainly for my flight sim hobby after almost six years of using my present computer, time for an upgrade. When I spoke today on the phone to the store I usually purchase my gaming computers, the salesperson said liquid cooled is the new standard. I'm from the old school who worked in the communications and electronics industry for 40 years and electronics and liquid don't go together well.

Questions:

is this the new standard?

Any issues with liquid cooled with leaking?

Any regular maintenance with liquid cooled? 

Looked forward to any input. Thanks in advance.

John C.

 

Edited by johncott

Specs: black box thingy with spinning fans, lights and a bunch of wires that go to screens with pretty colours and a keyboard with many keys. The black box thingy also has a push button activated coffee cup holder.

John C.

Yes it is with the CPU using AIO

Intel Core i9-10900K at 5.2GHz, Corsair H115i PRO, ASUS MAXIMUS XII HERO Z490, G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 15-16-16-36, ASUS TUF Gaming GeForce RTX 3090, SAMSUNG 970 EVO PLUS M.2 2280 1TB x 3, Corsair HX Series HX1000 Watt PSU, Pimax Crystal LIght.

Yes, it is very common today on gaming machines.  Air coolers have also come a long ways, and I have seen some air coolers outperform water coolers, but they are expensive and large.

I would recommned an AIO (All in One). they are sealed units. So no topping off or changing the fluids. No connections. So no Maintenance.  Since they are all sealed units, it should not evaporate and should not leak. I suppose anything can fail but I have been using them for years and had never had a problem. 

Rick 

i9-14900KS OC to 5.8 Ghz | 64 GIG- G.Skill 7200 RAM | Asus ROG Maximus z790 Hero Motherboard | Gigabyte  RTX 5090 OC |  47" Samsung 4K Monitor I Pimax Crystal Super 50 HMD I Varjo Aero HMD I  Windows 11

AIO cooling seems to have become the standard for most pre-built computers.  They are generally quieter than air cooled systems and the sealed AIO systems are usually trouble free.  On mine, an EVGA AIO, the radiator fans died not long after I bought the computer.  Rather than send it back to Newegg, I replaced the fans myself, which resulted in an even cooler and quieter running cooling system.

My computer: ABS Gladiator Gaming PC featuring an Intel 10700F CPU, EVGA CLC-240 AIO cooler (dead fans replaced with Noctua fans), Asus Tuf Gaming B460M Plus motherboard, 16GB DDR4-3000 RAM, 1 TB NVMe SSD, EVGA RTX3070 FTW3 video card, dead EVGA 750 watt power supply replaced with Antec 900 watt PSU.

The larger AIOs are just “ok”, go with a custom loop as you get far more flexibility and a lot quieter.  I just recently finished a hard line setup on a Corsair 9000D, 16 fans, 2 D5 pumps, 2x480 1x 420 radiators and added a fill port with ball valve and drain port with ball valve.  Extremely quiet setup as I don’t need to run the fans at high speed to ensure optimal thermal exchange.

Do NOT run pumps at full speed, use a temp curve.  For the D5 pumps I run at 1800 rpm to about 2300 rpm (max is about 5000 rpm) to obtain optimal cooling, your setup will vary a little pending number of radiators and line/tube elevation … so unless you have some super long distances, rpm should be around 1800 - 2300.

Hardline setups are more difficult to create but do look nice … I enjoy building them, but soft line tubing has less potential to leak and much easier to manage and if you change components frequently you can use quick disconnects which means no draining of loop required to switch out components.  Do NOT go cheap with fittings.  Koolance make excellent fittings with swivel, but they’re not cheap … just make sure you get correct OD/ID measurements AND go with quality tubing (for hardline TMMA for soft line PU tubing (not PVC)).

After install you will want to jump the PSU MB connector to trigger perhipal power to run the cooling system ONLY (no power to components) to ensure no leaks, prime, and get the air pockets out.

Do NOT use distilled water.  Use coolants from a supplier as they will have the necessary anti-bacteria chemicals and lubricants for pump already mixed in the fluid. 

The build will be rewarding, very very low risk, and run very quiet even under heavy loads.  Custom loops are awesome.

EDIT: case pressure, recommended to aim for neutral which means you should have as many as fans pulling air into the case and you do pushing air out of the case.  Typically pull air in from the front and exhaust air out back and/or top/side.

Edited by CO2Neutral

12 minutes ago, CO2Neutral said:

The larger AIOs are just “ok”, go with a custom loop as you get far more flexibility and a lot quieter.  I just recently finished a hard line setup on a Corsair 9000D, 16 fans, 2 D5 pumps, 2x480 1x 420 radiators and added a fill port with ball valve and drain port with ball valve.  Extremely quiet setup as I don’t need to run the fans at high speed to ensure optimal thermal exchange.

Do NOT run pumps at full speed, use a temp curve.  For the D5 pumps I run at 1800 rpm to about 2300 rpm (max is about 5000 rpm) to obtain optimal cooling, your setup will vary a little pending number of radiators and line/tube elevation … so unless you have some super long distances, rpm should be around 1800 - 2300.

Hardline setups are more difficult to create but do look nice … I enjoy building them, but soft line tubing has less potential to leak and much easier to manage and if you change components frequently you can use quick disconnects which means no draining of loop required to switch out components.  Do NOT go cheap with fittings.  Koolance make excellent fittings with swivel, but they’re not cheap … just make sure you get correct OD/ID measurements AND go with quality tubing (for hardline TMMA for soft line PU tubing (not PVC)).

After install you will want to jump the PSU MB connector to trigger perhipal power to run the cooling system ONLY (no power to components) to ensure no leaks, prime, and get the air pockets out.

Do NOT use distilled water.  Use coolants from a supplier as they will have the necessary anti-bacteria chemicals and lubricants for pump already mixed in the fluid. 

The build will be rewarding, very very low risk, and run very quiet even under heavy loads.  Custom loops are awesome.

EDIT: case pressure, recommended to aim for neutral which means you should have as many as fans pulling air into the case and you do pushing air out of the case.  Typically pull air in from the front and exhaust air out back and/or top/side.

Sure - that is an option with 16 fans - or you just get one of these and be done with it...

https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/cooling/id-cooling-frozn-a720-and-a620-review

cheap and easy to install. And with e.g. 120W AMD CPU a lot of headroom on the TDP and consequently lower noise. Air coolers are a valid option. Nothing wrong with it.

I have the Noctua NH-D15 G2 in one of my computers (AMD 9950X3D), it works ok, ridiculously expensive now at ($235).  Getting these large dual fan heatsink air coolers to fit can be a problem (RAM clearance, back panel clearance) ... I had to adjust the fan attachment points on my NH-D15 G2 and they unit looks ugly and they're heavy (definitely not good for vertical mount motherboards) and only two fastener points for that much weight on a CPU.

Under load testing, NH-D15 G2 just doesn't hack it compared to a custom liquid cooled setup.  Although Noctua fans are relatively quiet (some of the quietest), they will have to run at 100% to keep from CPU throttling under heavy loads. 

Also have a Corsair iCUE Link Titan 360 AIO in another PC (AMD 9950X), it gets noisy under heavy loads and definitely not as efficient as a well setup custom water cooled system.

Steering someone away from liquid cooling is a bad idea in todays CPU/GPU thermal settings.

I'm assuming OP is interested in building a PC, specifically water cooled, hence my suggestions.

I've used and built just about every combination of air, AIO, custom and a custom setup will always provide for most efficient cooling with least amount of noise.

If cost is an issue, then go with 3 fan (360 min) AIO, they're actually cheaper than Noctua NH-D15 G2 air only.

EDIT: the standard for custom water loops are Goulds D5 pumps, extremely reliable (provided you don't run them without fluid).

Edited by CO2Neutral

I've been using water cooling for 16 years.

I have custom water loops (to the CPU only) on both of my sim boxes--that said, my thoughts on air vs water cooling have evolved some in the last year.

My P3D machine is a 24-core Intel 13900KS, and I would not even think about air cooling that, as it's a heat monster.  My current MSFS box is an AMD 7800X3D, and it's only water-cooled because I already had the loop built for the previous 10-core Intel 10900K.  The AMD CPU runs cool enough that a quality air cooler is sufficient.

My two other boxes are both air-cooled with Noctua NH-D15s--an overclocked Intel i9-9900K and an Intel i7-8086K.  My wife's PC is an i7-7700K with a Corsair H100 AIO water loop.

Honestly, if you opt for one of the 8-core AMD X3D chips, which are the king of the hill for MSFS presently due to their super-sized L3 cache, I would stick with a good air cooler due to their simplicity and reliability.  My 7800X3D is typically only dissipating ~60 watts running MSFS, so an air cooler would be more than sufficient.  The only moving part in the air cooler is the fan (or fans), and are easily replaceable if they ever die on you.  I still like Noctua in large part because of their quiet and reliable magnetic bearing fans.

If you opt for Intel, or one of the dual-CCD AMD chips like the 9750X3D, then an AIO water loop with a 280 or 360 mm radiator would be at the top of the list for an OEM build.

I enjoy building and operating custom water loops--but they do require work to install and regular maintenance.  My water loops have everything but the CPU water block mounted on a rack external to the case, so leaks that threaten the PC's electronics have never been a problem--but I have had several radiators develop pinhole leaks after many years of use.  The AIO loops are sealed and fairly trouble-free--leaks are rare (but can happen).  AIO water pumps do eventually fail, and I've had a couple AIO loops disappoint me with poor performance and/or noise issues over the years.  The fans on an AIO water loop can be just as noisy as an under-specced air cooler, so putting enough radiator surface area in play is vital to keeping fan speed down to minimize noise.

Bob Scott | President and CEO, AVSIM Inc
ATP Gulfstream II-III-IV-V

Sys1 (MSFS20+24/XPlane12+11): AMD 9800X3D, water 2x240mm, MSI MPG X670E Carbon, 64GB GSkill 6000/30, nVidia RTX4090FE
Alienware AW3821DW 38" 21:9 GSync, 2x4TB Crucial T705 PCIe5 + 2x2TB Samsung 990 SSD, EVGA 1000P2 PSU, 12.9" iPad Pro
Thrustmaster TCA Boeing Yoke, TCA Airbus Sidestick, Twin TCA Airbus Throttle quads, PFC Cirrus Pedals, Coolermaster HAF932 case

Sys2 (P3Dv5/v4): i9-13900KS, water 2x360mm, ASUS Z790 Hero, 32GB GSkill 7800MHz CAS36, ASUS RTX4090
Samsung 55" JS8500 4K TV@60Hz,
3x 2TB WD SN850X 1x 4TB Crucial P3 M.2 NVME SSD, EVGA 1600T2 PSU
Fiber link to Yamaha RX-V467 Home Theater Receiver, Polk/Klipsch 6" bookshelf speakers, Polk 12" subwoofer, 12.9" iPad Pro
PFC yoke/throttle quad/pedals with custom Hall sensor retrofit, Thermaltake View 71 case, Stream Deck XL button box

Sys3 (DCS/P3Dv4/ATS/ETS): AMD 7800X3D, MSI MPG X870E Carbon, Noctua NH-D15S, 64GB GSkill 6000/30, EVGA RTX3090
Alienware AW3420DW 34" 21:9 GSync, Corsair HX1000i PSU, 4TB Crucial T705 PCIe5 + 2TB Samsung 970Evo Plus,
TM TCA Officer Pack
, Saitek combat pedals, TM Warthog, TM RS300 FF wheel/pedals, Coolermaster HAF XB case

  • Author
1 hour ago, CO2Neutral said:

... I'm assuming OP is interested in building a PC, specifically water cooled, hence my suggestions. ...

 

Thank for your info, I'm not interested in building my own computer. I usually just go and choose the parts, and they put it together. I'm tech savvy but the last three systems I've purchase from them have worked awesome. Always had good service and follow-up service when needed. I will look into both AIO and some recommendations for custom liquid cooling.

John C.

Specs: black box thingy with spinning fans, lights and a bunch of wires that go to screens with pretty colours and a keyboard with many keys. The black box thingy also has a push button activated coffee cup holder.

John C.

4 minutes ago, johncott said:

I usually just go and choose the parts

I believe Origin PC have some pretty nice pre-built custom water loop systems where you can pick parts and they build to order.

I would advise the OP to closely tack to the advice of @Bob Scott. Unless you want to be doing active maintenance skip the custom water loops. A good AIO is more than sufficient.

Edited by Maxis

AMD Ryzen 9800X3D/ Asus ROG Strix B650E F Gaming WiFi / Asrock Taichi 9070XT / 32GB G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo DDR5 6000 / 2x ADATA XPG 8200 Pro NVME / Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280 / Seasonic Vertex 1000w PSU / Lian Li LanCool II Mesh Performance / Asus VG34VQL3A / Topping E70 Velvet DAC & L70 Amp /Sennheiser HD660s2

Thrustmaster Boeing Yoke + TCA Sidestick + TFRP Rudders

I run a B650E with a Ryzen 7 9700X on air with no issues.  My gpu is a AMD Radeon RX 7900 XT.  My CPU air cooler is a Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120SE that costs $55.00.  My system isn't overclocked so air works without any issues.  My case is a mid-size with 6 intake fans and only one exhaust fan.  

My experience with AIOs is after a couple of years the cooling fluid starts to evaporate and the pump develops cavitation issues and reduced cooling.  With no way to refill the AIO it became necessary for me to replace the AIO.  

I Earned My Spurs in Vietnam

21 hours ago, Maxis said:

Unless you want to be doing active maintenance skip the custom water loops

Disagree, AIO operate on the same principles but aren’t maintainable and hence fail or become less efficient and need to be replaced.  A maintainable custom loop can be used thru many iterations of components lasting decades with the only replacement part being the CPU waterblock (sometimes not even that).

You’re certainly welcome to disagree but I have been using the same aio since I built my rig for msfs2020 In August of that year and upgraded through 4 cpus over two sockets without issue. Considering I am at year 5 without having to mess with my aio in any way I I would be happy to state that the aio is just as good as any custom loop to cool as long as you selected a good brand.
Not everyone is down to be bending pipe elbows and cutting custom lengths and filling reservoirs not to mention trying to source interfaces for whatever components that you desire to be added to the loop (like gpus) and those interfaces can get hella expensive. if that’s your thing great however for most people the aio provides water cooling without being overly involved and is the most appropriate solution here. 

Edited by Maxis

AMD Ryzen 9800X3D/ Asus ROG Strix B650E F Gaming WiFi / Asrock Taichi 9070XT / 32GB G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo DDR5 6000 / 2x ADATA XPG 8200 Pro NVME / Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280 / Seasonic Vertex 1000w PSU / Lian Li LanCool II Mesh Performance / Asus VG34VQL3A / Topping E70 Velvet DAC & L70 Amp /Sennheiser HD660s2

Thrustmaster Boeing Yoke + TCA Sidestick + TFRP Rudders

Create an account or sign in to comment

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.