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About tttocs

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    Colorado, USA

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  1. I also caught this in time to take advantage, so I'll add my thanks to DD for making this happen. It's a win-win, as I've been on the fence about picking up the airports package and the city package. Now that I've got the airports, getting the city becomes a no-brainer. Scott
  2. Ryan asks the critical question here that no one else seems to think of when graphics memory issues come up. There's a big difference between what someone needs running 4K and what they need just running 1080. I'd bet most running into issues with 8G cards are also running 4K. Scott
  3. It's been a while since I moved from LVFR v1 to v2, but IIRC it was a substantial improvement. What I can say with certainty is that I love LVFR v2, it blends competently with Orbx SoCal and I've never felt the desire to move to the Orbx version. If I had neither, I still think I'd trend towards the LVFR version simply because something about the Orbx ramp/runway textures looks funky to my eye. Still I can't imagine being terribly unhappy with either. Scott
  4. It's entirely a GPS approach, so you stay in GPS mode. For LPV approaches like this there are two keys to glideslope capture success with the Garmin units. First, as always make sure you're at the proper altitude to intercept the glideslope from below, and second DO NOT change to APR mode until you see the glideslope come alive on your HSI or CDI. Scott
  5. Must be working pretty well - my air-fuel mixtures are spot on these days. 😬 Nope, I didn't generally re-jet either - but you didn't have to be a combustion engineer to know that the mixture was wonky with large changes of altitude. The last 4x4 I had that wasn't FI was a 1974 Ford Bronco. Loved that thing, but oh my good dog how it would load up at high altitude, especially at odd lean angles or when bouncing off rocks thanks to the float bouncing around causing raw fuel to get dumped down the carb throat. You could very obviously smell all the un-burned fuel. And yes, there were times when I had to disassemble the float chamber somewhere out in the middle of nowhere to unstick a jammed float. I'll stand by my statement that electronic FI is the best thing to ever happen for high altitude driving, and especially backcountry driving in rough terrain. Carburetors are Rube Goldberg devices that I do not miss. Scott - Colorado resident since 1971 (and a Cubs fan for life!)
  6. Yep! Those of us who live in the high country do NOT miss carbs AT ALL!😀 Yes, I knew how to work on them - good thing because I HAD to. Scott
  7. Sorry for the delay in responding... Thanks much for the followup, Frank. Still on the fence for now, as I've actually not had any time for simming of late, but the information is still much appreciated. Scott
  8. No, they are not. You're confusing Riddlez with Turbulent. BTW, I concur that Riddlez did a very nice job with KBLI and was quite disappointed when they basically disappeared from the flight sim scene. They'd announced they were working on two airports I'd love to see done, Santa Fe, NM and Kelowna, BC Canada. Had they ever finished either with anywhere near the quality of KBLI, I would've been thrilled. Scott
  9. Frank, as Al mentions, the pots are basically at the bottoms of the throttle levers. I simply slide the straw all the way down into the quadrant to where the lever ends. I generally give a quick squirt from both the top side and then the bottom side of the lever and then work the lever through the full range of motion a few times. Repeat for each lever (I have two quadrants for six total). Both of my quadrants had become unusable before I resorted to this, with major spikes on all of them. I won't say the treatment made them "good as new", but pretty doggone close. Scott
  10. Honestly, I don't really know. I haven't done it since at least sometime early last summer that I can recall. I guess the answer is, not often enough that I have to think about it. 🙂 Scott
  11. Ray, you misunderstand me. I don't disassemble them. I stick the "straw" on my contact cleaner through the slots so that it's spraying right where the <cough> "sealed" pot is. I then cycle that lever several times and voila! Major spikes are gone. Note that minor noise is still there, but that was there when the throttles were brand new. As noted before, the biggest issue is that these pots are junk from the get-go. You're blaming a technology that can actually be quite serviceable (again I have pots that are older than me that work just fine), based on an implementation of that technology that was of poor quality from the start. Scott
  12. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts Frank. Thanks much! But that's the thing Ray. The pots in the Saitek throttles are about as cheap as you can get. One of my former hobbies was restoring old radio transmitters and receivers and some of those have pots older than I am that are still serviceable. All things being equal, I'd prefer HE sensors to pots as well but it's not necessarily the showstopper for some of us that it is for you. I hear you (and honestly respect your opinion as well) especially as it comes to things like throw-away plastic. That said, my main issue with my Saitek yoke is that it was a compromise from the get-go. It was never great. But it's actually held up very well in its mediocrity for the years that I've had it. It's only now that the (never great to begin with) pots are beginning to cause additional problems. BTW as an aside for those struggling with spikey Saitek throttles, a shot of contact cleaner actually works wonders for extending the life. I often hear simmers claim that this "can't possibly work" as the pots are, supposedly, sealed. I'm afraid they're not as sealed as they should be, and that's likely part of the problem. For all that this technique isn't supposed to work, it's extended the life of my throttles for several years. Don't be afraid to try it as a workaround until you (and I!) can afford/justify a better replacement. Scott
  13. Gotcha, thanks for the clarification. I fully understand the resistance to knee-jerk over regulation. A lot of my early flying was done exactly this way. Flying off private land in a rural area with permission from the landowner. Scott
  14. Please don't tell me you were propping with your finger!? 😨 Scott
  15. I like a good rant as much as the next guy, but I'm truly confused on this one Mark and I'm wondering if there's something I'm missing For background, I started flying RC aircraft about the same time as I started flying for real but haven't actively flown in years. As I believe it is in the UK, insurance isn't a legal requirement here in the US, but it's a practical one for personal protection and also because most (probably all) flying fields require it. What I'm not understanding here is what, exactly, you believe drones have to do with the changes you describe? Is it because you believe the proliferation of drones are causing the rates for your aircraft to go up? From my limited perspective, most moderate to large traditional RC aircraft DO in fact pose larger risks, as they are 1) harder to fly and 2) do not have the sophisticated collision avoidance and signal loss capabilities as their drone brethren. I'm also not understanding why this would cause you to give up a hobby you've obviously got a fair investment in. A quick look at the BMFA website seems to indicate that yearly dues are now 38 GBP and each extra registration 9 GBP. That hardly seems prohibitive relative to what you obviously have invested (unless you have a whole garage full of aircraft you're actively flying) and seems to be less than what I was paying in the US several decades ago. Current AMA yearly membership (the US equivalent) is $75. Not criticizing, just trying to understand the situation that has you a bit burnt. Scott
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