December 18, 20214 yr 1 hour ago, Puddin said: I can land this, which is an improvement on the Thranda XP11 pogo stick version. But I am getting some serious pitching up after turning off the autopilot, not at all like the Milviz PC6. Anyone else getting the same? I have to give it some serious nose down trim each time, even after when I have set the altitude bug in AP. Apart from that its my new Himalayan bus, Yeah transition from AP to Manual on an ILS/RNAV approach can also be very hairy. There does seem to be something going on that I don't understand happening at take off. Some take offs are just fine, plane glides along the runway to Vr at which point to rotate, anticipating a pull to the left and if you get that right she takes off cleanly. But others the nose starts to lift violently around 35kts despite neutral pitch trim (and irrespective of rudder trim) and no amount of pitch down will keep her from running away and turning over. Edited December 18, 20214 yr by Matchstick
December 18, 20214 yr 17 minutes ago, Matchstick said: Yeah transition from AP to Manual on an ILS/RNAV approach can also be very hairy. There does seem to be something going on that I don't understand happening at take off. Some take offs are just fine, plane glides along the runway to Vr at which point to rotate, anticipating a pull to the left and if you get that right she takes off cleanly. But others the nose starts to lift violently around 35kts despite neutral pitch trim (and irrespective of rudder trim) and no amount of pitch down will keep her from running away and turning over. Nose down trim should be around 75% for take off, as opposed to neutral. That's the indication I'm getting from the documentation, at least. Currently circumnavigating the world in a mix of Cessna and Piper aircraft. My Default Setup; MSFS, Honeycomb Alpha, Thrustmaster Hotas X, TrackIR, Samsung Galaxy Tab, JustFlight Piper Arrow. Simworks Quest Kodiak 100. Wishlist; Honeycomb Bravo, Honeycomb Charlie. 1:400 Airline Model Collector.
December 18, 20214 yr Is there any dumb mode to this plane or a mode were a lot of the control is fully assisted ? 5 MHz 8087 IBM Clone, 640k RAM, 10 MB HD, Hercules 64k Graphics card, 14 in Monochrome Monitor, CH Products Mach-1 Joy Stick.
December 18, 20214 yr 18 minutes ago, MSFLYER5856 said: Is there any dumb mode to this plane or a mode were a lot of the control is fully assisted ? You can do this in MSFS settings to a degree. Rudder assistance is a good one. It won't get around having to use a bit of rudder trim occasionally though. Rob (but call me Bob or Rob, I don't mind). I like to trick airline passengers into thinking I have my own swimming pool in my back yard by painting a large blue rectangle on my patio. Intel 14900K in a Z790 motherboard with water cooling, RTX 4080, 32 GB 6000 CL30 DDR5 RAM, W11 and MSFS on Samsung 980 Pro NVME SSD's. Core Isolation Off, Game Mode Off.
December 18, 20214 yr 4 hours ago, EvidencePlz said: The flight model seems to be completely wrong, arcady and twitchy. The plane seems to exhibit a behaviour similar to tissue-paper. It dances around in the wind like it weighs half a gram or less even. This is not the aircraft developer's fault though. An incorrect environment will only generate incorrect result. It's been more than 6 years since development restarted and the much-hyped and massively advertised "surface element theory" so far has utterly failed to generate a single aircraft for MSFS 2020 with a convincing and accurate flight dynamics. So embarrassing and sad. Review do Daher Kodiak 100 da Simworks Studios MSFS - YouTube I'm sorry but what your claiming just isn't true, A IRL Kodiak pilot and a IRL Hawk pilot disagree with you about the flight model (no sim is going to be perfect) I know who I'd listen to. Real pilots of the said aircraft or some random simmer who is probably just a word not allowed of the other more mature sims (and yes I have them and use them (with 35+ years simming experience) but I admit not very much these days and they're still great sims) but this sim will start to mature this year. My Kodiak flies nothing like the Youtube video as long as the aircraft is set up right, that youtuber needs to learn to fly a Kodiak properly. Edited December 18, 20214 yr by eaim1973 AMD 9800X3D, NZXT X73 RGB AIO COOLER, Gigabyte X870 Aorus Elite WIFI7, 64GB 6000MHZ RAM, 4TB Samsung Pro NVME, 4 TB Crucial P3+ NVME, 4TB Crucial SSD, Gigabyte Gaming OC Geforce RTX5090, Antec C8 ARGB Case, X55 JOYSTICK/THROTTLES, LG 4K C4 42" TV/Monitor 120 Hz, 2 Dell 1080 monitors. Honeycomb Alpha Yoke, Bravo Throttle. Thrustmaster TPR Pedals. Moza AB6 FFB Joystick, Pimax Crystal Light VR, Tobii Eye tracker, Steelseries Arctis 7+ Wireless Headphones.
December 18, 20214 yr Just done my first circuit after reading some of the documentation and tips from here. No issues to report. Seems a great add on so far. I think I shall be very pleased with this after I put a few hours in. Currently circumnavigating the world in a mix of Cessna and Piper aircraft. My Default Setup; MSFS, Honeycomb Alpha, Thrustmaster Hotas X, TrackIR, Samsung Galaxy Tab, JustFlight Piper Arrow. Simworks Quest Kodiak 100. Wishlist; Honeycomb Bravo, Honeycomb Charlie. 1:400 Airline Model Collector.
December 18, 20214 yr 11 minutes ago, ThrottleUp said: Can you turn off the center MFD and the right seat PFD? I think you can't turn off the MFD without turning off the Avionics, though you could leave it on the start screen Though honestly I'm not sure why you would want to. Edited December 18, 20214 yr by Matchstick
December 18, 20214 yr 18 minutes ago, ThrottleUp said: Can you turn off the center MFD and the right seat PFD? You can use the circuit breaker to cut it from power... 😉 (PFD2 too) Cheers T. Edited December 18, 20214 yr by Torsen
December 18, 20214 yr 11 minutes ago, Matchstick said: I think you can't turn off the MFD without turning off the Avionics, though you could leave it on the start screen Though honestly I'm not sure why you would want to. On this old machine I try to squeeze out every last FPS. If those screens can truly be turned off (instead of just being dimmed to black) then it will help that little bit with resources. The right seat PFD in all planes in MSFS is useless to me, I never fly from that seat! None of this will be a concern once I get a new rig...cant wait! 5 minutes ago, Torsen said: You can use the circuit breaker to cut it from power... 😉 (PFD2 too) Cheers T. Oh great thank you for showing that! 🙂
December 18, 20214 yr 1 hour ago, eaim1973 said: I'm sorry but what your claiming just isn't true, A IRL Kodiak pilot and a IRL Hawk pilot disagree with you about the flight model (no sim is going to be perfect) I know who I'd listen to. Real pilots of the said aircraft or some random simmer who is probably just a word not allowed of the other more mature sims (and yes I have them and use them (with 35+ years simming experience) but I admit not very much these days and they're still great sims) but this sim will start to mature this year. My Kodiak flies nothing like the Youtube video as long as the aircraft is set up right, that youtuber needs to learn to fly a Kodiak properly. Please ignore him. He likes to chime in now and then and proclaim MSFS is an abject failure - he's more or less a troll. Just add him to your ignore list. Former Child, Current Adult
December 18, 20214 yr 15 hours ago, V1ROTA7E said: The keybind is "HOLD THROTTLE REVERSE THRUST" I have it set to a button so when it's pressed and held, i can use throttle movement to modulate the amount of reverse thrust. Nice...I set this to the Go-Around button on my Honeycomb throttle and works great! Eric i9-12900k, RTX 5070ti OC, 32GB ddr5 5600 RAM, 2TB 980 Pro SSD, Titan 240RX AIO, Samsung CRG90 49", Win 11
December 18, 20214 yr Is the need for frequent rudder trim adjustments an accurate representation of the real flight model? I find myself adjusting it quite often. I have no experience at all with a Kodiak prior to this one, so I'm very much learning the ropes, so to speak. Takeoffs are still very much a work in progress for me, but it's certainly clear that a significant amount of nose down trim is needed. Still trying to get used to different rudder trim settings / rudder usage for takeoff and climb.
December 18, 20214 yr Author 24 minutes ago, FakeWayne said: Is the need for frequent rudder trim adjustments an accurate representation of the real flight model? I find myself adjusting it quite often. I have no experience at all with a Kodiak prior to this one, so I'm very much learning the ropes, so to speak. Takeoffs are still very much a work in progress for me, but it's certainly clear that a significant amount of nose down trim is needed. Still trying to get used to different rudder trim settings / rudder usage for takeoff and climb. I think so. It's a very sensitive airplane with a lot of power. It doesn't feel like it's on rails, that's for sure. This is a quote from one of the devs: 4 hours ago, A320_SX ALX said: It's been some time since I was here! To address what I managed to catch from the discussion, trim does indeed help. We received a lot of help from Daher to make the airplane as close as MSFS allows us to and that extended beyond manuals. The people in France and Idaho got us an incredible amount of feedback, from photos to 3D, to information and testimony. You know it, of course, that this plane is not a training tool for the real thing and we made sure to state it clearly in the manual & Kodiak EULA, for those that won't read the MSFS EULA. Now, the plane was test-flown a number of times by them and we used that to dial in the basics. We also did a lot of testing internally, where we were lucky to also have a Kodiak pilot (non-fsctory) to fly her daily and give us a lot of feedback very quickly. Of course, there are things to improve as well as things out of our control, but we came as close as we could for what we believe is a good v1.0. Now for the plane being planted to the left of the runway: P-Factor is strong. We were told that 30-50% right rudder trim is needed for that starting take-off roll. Part of the pull is absorbed by the ground, in the form of pressing the left gear against the ground and that makes things easier. Upon getting off the ground, you no longer have that convenience which means you need to add right pedal and yoke to counter. Why would you crash though? If you don't trim for takeoff and pull too much on the yoke, you can end up at 20 degrees of pitch with 65 knots. That will open up AoA, lose lift and the torque will drag you left while gravity gets you down. Without writing more, proper takeoff technique can be seen in this video: https://youtu.be/x8PMTJ-_MFs Also, MBP explains what happens on takeoff at around 5:40-6:10: https://youtu.be/8uPWeyfjIi0 Notice the controls on the right seat. Of course, weather, CG and altitude will require adjustment, but I hope this gets you off straight and safely. PS. Sorry for the long and rushed post, I am on my phone Edited December 18, 20214 yr by V1ROTA7E AMD 9950X3D | 64 GB RAM | RTX 5090 FMR: 747 FO, 757/767 CAPT, 737 Check Airman Current 777 CAPT
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.